SAAC Forum

Let me get this straight - a non-matching numbers (if it were, they'd surely know and prove it) automatic convertible with some obvious, albeit easy to fix, mistakes sold for a number greater than Hagerty's valuation of a concours #1 (4-speed) car...

I mean, I've always felt these cars were undervalued, but wow. I'd love to hear the more experienced members thoughts on this sale and the overall market conditions of shelbys.

Does anyone have an original 68 glove box door? I've looked everywhere... I managed to find the original plastic glove box, but cannot seem to find the darn door!

Black in good, original condition preferred!

Bmilos@gmail.com

Thanks!

I installed it incorrectly. Thank you for the knowledge!

Hey all -

Have been giving 685 some light use since getting back on the road (finally).

Totally sorted mechanically, with all the major systems having been overhauled. Anyway, yesterday pulling out of the garage, I noticed a (heavy) trail of AT. Once up, I noticed that the PS return hose tore at the bracket. Clearly has been getting pinched between the bracket and the metal protective wrap.

Is this common? Ordered a replacement from Dead Nuts, but am looking to avoid this from happening again... and again.

Solutions or advice?

Thanks!

Update -

I tested the brake switch at the pedal and was getting 12v constant from the green/red, but nothing from the green when the pedal was depressed. So, I hopped in the car and drove over to NPD to pick up a replacement. After getting the new one installed on the pedal, I went to install the extension, first to the switch and then to the under dash loom. Of course, the wires broke at the under dash side of the connection. So, now kind of sidelined.

But here is a question or two - shouldn't I be getting brake lights if I connect the green/red and the green? What is stranger is that I seem to be getting 12v from both of the wires individually. Shouldn't I only get 12v from the green if the circuit is completed at the brake switch?

This is making me think that there is something happening at the turn signal switch that is only effecting the running/brake lights. As the car currently sits, the turn signals are functioning (sort of). Theres a wonky connection happening at the outer and center lights of the drivers side. The inner functions great, but the out is dim and if I even put a bulb in the center the outer stops working... and the center just doesn't want to work. Upside is the original dynamite stick is working as it should.

On the passengers side, all three lights are functioning, albeit dimly compared to the inner of the drivers side. BUT they are all flashing at the same time which makes me think the dynamite stick on the passengers side is done.

I removed and cleaned the ground at the back panel.

I'm getting pretty antsy to break int his engine and the no brake light thing is really wearing on me!

There's a ground from the tail light panel to the trunk? Does anyone have a picture of that?

Would the 553 account for the failure of running lights?

I spent some time working on cleaning up the sockets (thinking it was a grounding issue) but they are pretty well aged. I'd much rather save what was original - especially the original dynamite sticks - than go reproduction. Is there a good way to restore the sockets without cutting and splicing?

Hey all -

I'm having some problems with my tail lights - basically nothing is working properly, most not at all.

I went out and picked up some new bulbs - 1157's - and they're a bear to install, when the even fit.

Anyway, after installing the new bulbs, all the running lights were working on the drivers side and the passengers side were on, but faint compared to the drivers side. Blinkers weren't working, nor were brake lights.

I decided to remove the whole panel and see what was going on inside... mistake #1.

I then moved inside the car and started tinkering with the blinker switch. I swapped out the blinker can with a new (553) and cleaned up the contacts on the turn signal switch. They are now functioning - I hear the can clicking and they work on the front lights as the all should (individual blinkers and hazards)...

What's really strange is now none of the running lights work. When the hazards are on, the three passengers bulbs flash and the inner drivers side does as well. What's even stranger is when an individual blinker is engaged, the same thing happens. 3 on the right and 1 on the left, regardless of which blinker is used. This could have something to do two wires that were cut and tucked - a thicker black and a regular red - that I tried reconnecting to each other.

So, does anyone have wiring diagrams for the whole back tail light section? I'm flying blind here and am totally confused looking at regular mustang wiring.

Extra points if someone knows what in the heck is going on and has a solution!

Milo

Yes, but just to confirm - there is no spacer that goes between the block and the upper PS bracket? Outside in is AC compressor bracket leg -> upper PS bracket -> block, correct?

Thanks!

Sorry!

68 GT500 428PI

During my mockup, I noticed noticed a gap where the AC bracket that holds the pulley meets the PS bracket at the block. Small gap, more like a thick washer. Is that true? I didn't exactly tighten every bolt up, as it was just a mock run, but it gave me pause.

Dropped the engine in yesterday! Looking forward to being on the other side of that mountain.

Thanks again, Chris!

LOL.

What struck me is how low you got the front end by resting the LCA's on blocks. Does leaving the wheels on, tires on the ground give up too much in the clearance department?

Thanks for everything!

Quote from: Chris Thauberger on April 04, 2020, 11:53:14 AM

Quote from: roddster on April 04, 2020, 11:44:10 AM
  I got this tip from the VMF: you can also jack the rear of the car way up due to the extreme angle nessary to put the big block engine in.

I guess nobody looks at pictures anymore

Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 02, 2020, 07:27:55 PM

Quote from: Milo on April 02, 2020, 07:16:41 PM
What color are the AC pulleys - Aluminum?

The clutch and the donut electro magnet are zinc silver. The waterpump , crank and PS pulleys are semi gloss blk. Even though black is the typical rebuilder color curious of what mfg the pump is. The third second line on the ID tag found on the rear of the pump tells who by the letter.  It will be a F for  Ford Thompson which is the bluish shade and W for TRW which was black . Both were used but one maybe a little more prevalent.

Sure enough, I have a HBA-BH pump with a W. Go Dan! I vaguely remember having this conversation with him years ago after sending him my complete original setup for rebuilding. He's a lovely guy and does great work.

Thanks, Pete. I really hate reproduction parts, but you're right.