SAAC Forum

I fixed a warped bowl by using a 1/2" steel plate with the bowl screwed down to it. Placed in an oven for an 1/2 hour at 400. Let it cool in the oven and it was de-warped.

On a non tab battery I used a couple of large hose clamps screwed together with filed small grooves in the case for the bands to bite into.  With the clamps tight and the stock hold downs covering and holding the clamp heads down, the battery is locked in place. Paint the clamp bands black and you're in business.

Knew a guy, Tom Dunn San Diego circa 1980, had these on his '65 GT350. SFM # ?  Had spline adapters on the lug studs and a large nut as the wheel retainer. Think all were 15x6? Been a while but I think he used a large closed end box wrench and a lead hammer.  He did say they came from a drag car, Cobra or GT35, can't recall.   

Thanks all for the info. Hoping someone had a set and not using. There are/was also a Gurney Eagle version.  Say Earl, I'm doing a Superformance 40 too.
"Westlake" Village was a place I grew up around! LOL.

Looking for a set of the G/W covers for 289/302/351 heads.

@ 16:37 GT350 maybe an R in the background?

Thought some might be interested in this picture of twin SW pumps in a Mustang/GT350? From an Aeroquip flyer, Bulletin 5186. No year I can find.

Once you get it repaired just a suggestion,  use a stat-o-seal gasket on the plug. Also wrap the plug a few times with teflon tape.

Brant, what is the round plug next to the rubber shield for? Never have seen that before.

Have a 1.3 ohm coil (as measured), think it's an MSD unit. What ballast should be used with this coil? The internal ballast resistance wire in the car was removed, so need an external. Running a dual point. Any advice appreciated.

On backing plates. Try looking at Ford Aerostar ('86-'87), as some had 10x2.5" using the 169 shoe. Can't recall but I think the bolt pattern for the flange needs to be redrilled, but the bearing center hole is the same as Mustang. Aerostar drums also work but think they need spacer rings?

Take a look at this link. Teeth left or right pitched.

https://www.falconparts.com/ford-falcon-auto-parts/pc/1960-1970-SPEEDOMETER-DRIVEN-GEARS-p5800.htm

I guess I did luck out though, but it took 22lbs to stop the leak. The ones I used came in a Ford package marked C3AZ-9433-D. White with red RM stamps and square hatching, small 1/2 moon cut out above the exhaust passage. Greenish/white specked pattern on other side.  Looked like the same material used fuel pump to timing cover. Maybe not the correct ones?

If you do find original intake gaskets, beware. The originals I found were very nice but hard as a rock, so they leaked water into the intake runners. I was pretty meticulous on assembly and torqued to the aluminum intake spec, which I think is 16lbs +/- as I recall.   Re-torqued the intake to 22 lbs and they sealed up just fine.  Never had an issue with Mr. Gaskets or FelPro which are very compliant compared to the originals when torqued to the 16lbs.  Make sure your intake and head surfaces are a good match. 

Make the hole smaller then?