SAAC Forum

I see on the original batteries shown there are letter and number stampings; (yellow cap F-22 looks like, 60 8 07), and the red cap one (DKS). Just wondering what these might refer to?

I think the door latches were a silver cad, unlike the '65/6 which were a gold cad? Same as the strikes, silver? Maybe a true '67 guru expert knows?

There are or were urethane versions sold by Mustang's Unlimited "Lower Front Shock Mounting Bushing Kit 1965-1973 Mustang
Item # CIN302"

6.00-15 goodyears will suck the stock front fender lip in, rub the rear springs and fender lip at speed (unless you have a panard rod). You might get away with the 5.50-15's?  The height on each are around 24", so think about your rear gear ratio as you will be cutting down on your top end mph, but you will accelerate better. 

Above or below, whats the difference?

Was the anti-sway bar color semi flat black and were there any color paint markings, dabs, stripes, etc..  on the bar? Thanks in advance

I have found that usually the shaft has worn, not the bushing. So before you pay for a bushing, measure the shaft. If you still need a rebuild I can do it for you. Can curve if too on the old Sun Machine. Done dozens of them.

These appear to be like an ETII, steel rim welded to a cast aluminum center section. These are not American Magnesium Torque Thrusts. There were a lot of two piece wheels like these in the 60's. Could be Appliance? Also appear to be uni-lug. Have been racing with "R model" wheels for 40 years, so I'm pretty sure "R model" wheels were /are American Magnesium.

I'll go! Maybe some other Georgia SA cars will attend too?

I like to tape off the highlighted areas. Mask and then use a razor blade and cut the tape along the fins. Saves a lot of elbow grease trying to get the paint off those thin fins. The masking goes pretty quick once you get the hang of it.

Yes, not an issue. These early shocks unlike the newer have a packing which usually only needs to be repacked or the internal compression ring shimmed and retightened. It's the poly rubber/plastic internal extension bumper that usually extrudes itself thru the orifices in the valving that renders the shock unusable and unadjustable. 

I always "see" the power flow from input to output via the gear selected and forget all the other gears, which are just sitting there waiting their turn to be engaged. This way you can determine or "see" which are the driven/drive gears and work the math. A power flow diagram input to output thru the trans for each gear is helpful to understand this. As stated below 4th is full lock up.

Just a note that modern aftermarket T-10's have gears that are rollerized to help eliminate as much friction as possible when they are not engaged. The original (Shelby) T-10 gears ride slip fit on the output shaft causing more drag. 

Remember, one gear is driven and the other is a "drive" gear. Driven/Drive . Example 1st. gear; 36/17= 2.12 thru the cluster to 29/26=1.115. 2.12 x 1.115 = 2.36. Same for all.

Can't seem to get my windshield washer pump motor to work, only getting 6.5 volts to it? The wipers run two speeds, the pump works fine with 12v. Any input appreciated.

I have two spare Koni shock shafts that will fit 1326/1388.  These are new, chromed hardened steel, machined with correct sized oil passages, threads, etc. I had 8 made for a few shocks I rebuilt. $400.00 for the pair.