SAAC Forum

Either one shouldn't matter  -  current path is broken and if anything becomes shorted no current will flow.

I twist off the negative cable - it is longer and you can just lay the connector down over a battery hold down bolt.   No danger of it moving around then and sparking, etc.  Definitely feel more comfortable with it unhooked especially when stored over winter and hooked to battery tender.   (Only negative is the clock is never on time).

QuoteKurt, thanks for your suggestion.

I don't think it will be the spring adjustment or spring itself as it's a new spring and the adjustment was set to the correct tolerance at the time of rebuilding the control valve.

However it's easy enough take off the cap and check so I'll check.

Ross

Note of caution:  this may be obvious, but don't start the car with the cap removed or you'll have fluid squirting out.

The problem could also be attributed to the spool centering spring adjustment, (under the aluminum cap) or to a weak centering spring.   If this is the cause you may also notice the car will want to pull to one side while driving.  The adjustment is made to achieve equal steering effort left or right, as it places the spool in the center of the valve at rest - equal pressure to both sides of the ram.
Kurt.

Discussion on CMF relating to ball bearings:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=16842.msg105501#msg105501

The short box is probably C7 since it came later than the long one.

The center casting was originally marked C5OE A.  The 5 and the O were hammered out and restamped with 7 and Z   creating a C7ZE A.   
The outer ring is the 68 style with the step at the back and with a wider inner diameter at the front to allow for fitting the larger 3 gang A/C pulley first used on 67 HiPO.   The L6 is indeed Nov. 66.  This is original production part.
It seems Ford used existing C5OE centers to produce the very few balancers needed for AC equipped HiPo motors in 1967.   By 68 production the center casting changed to a C8ZE A which also became the default service part.
If you try to fit an original 67 A/C crank pulley to the C5OE balancer you will see that it will not fit or will fit so tight as to bind on the outer ring.
Kurt.

(My 67 350 with A/C came with this exact restamped damper).

1242 is sweet.

The Boeshield rust free product is phosphoric acid - would not advise using on chrome.

Here is an illustration:

Unscrew it counterclockwise.

Back in the day no seat belts no nothin'

https://uncrate.com/video/vintage-race-car-crashes/

You would think that anyone who was serious about someday restoring a car like this would at least have the foresight to not let it rot away under a tarp in the weeds.  There is probably not a worse way to preserve a car than to store it this way.  It would be far better to get it under some sort of shelter and away from the moisture, even a car port or some sort of roof over is much better than a tarp that traps and holds moisture next to the surface.  What a crime.

One on EBay now:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-Shelby-Mustang-GT350-GT500-HBA-BH-8J3-date-coded-power-steering-pump/182767849173?hash=item2a8dd00ed5:g:JJAAAOSw3GtZvBAE:rk:1:pf:0

Mecum boys'll have a hard time pushing that up on the block.