61
Up For Auction / Re: 1968 GT350 At Mecum
« on: December 15, 2018, 09:19:52 AM »
During assembly the front and rear aprons overlap onto the shock towers. On the flat horizontal area where the fenders bolt on you can see distinct spot welds.
These overlap areas are very prone to rust.
Lazy shops will hack out the rot and fill the hole with bondo or fiberglass.
Some will sandblast the area to remove the rot and fill with bondo or fiberglass
some will tack or weld in a single piece of metal and fill either side with bondo
proper repair requires cutting out the area and spot welding new metal in
It's one of the easiest areas to spot if a car has corrosion.......and more importantly the level of repair
The most ingenious repair I've seen as I live in a rust belt and most cars here have corrosion in that area was:
sandblasting out the corrosion being sure to get out the black corrosion ensuring it doesn't come back, tacking in a piece of metal in the center of the hole where two layers of metal once was and filling the area with bondo.......then as the bondo was setting.....take and HB pencil and press the eraser into the bondo that is still setting up which leaves a depression the same size as an original spot weld
bring a magnet or paint thickness guage to check the thickness of the paint in this area. Get on your knees and look above the front tires at the same area with a bright flashlight from below......rarely is the area fixed properly from the underside
These overlap areas are very prone to rust.
Lazy shops will hack out the rot and fill the hole with bondo or fiberglass.
Some will sandblast the area to remove the rot and fill with bondo or fiberglass
some will tack or weld in a single piece of metal and fill either side with bondo
proper repair requires cutting out the area and spot welding new metal in
It's one of the easiest areas to spot if a car has corrosion.......and more importantly the level of repair
The most ingenious repair I've seen as I live in a rust belt and most cars here have corrosion in that area was:
sandblasting out the corrosion being sure to get out the black corrosion ensuring it doesn't come back, tacking in a piece of metal in the center of the hole where two layers of metal once was and filling the area with bondo.......then as the bondo was setting.....take and HB pencil and press the eraser into the bondo that is still setting up which leaves a depression the same size as an original spot weld
bring a magnet or paint thickness guage to check the thickness of the paint in this area. Get on your knees and look above the front tires at the same area with a bright flashlight from below......rarely is the area fixed properly from the underside