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Topics - cboss70

#41
I have a number of mustang variations from 65-70 and over the winter I got a little ahead of myself removing and cleaning parts. I now have a bunch of cross members that I can't remember which car they go to! The 65/66 and later c6 versions are easy but I'm not sure how to identify visually the 67 through 70 versions between big block and small.  The parts I have are old originals and I could NOT find legible stampings on them where I would go by marking or part numbers. Maybe its the 67/68 don't have oblong slots in the center (round holes) and the big blocks are taller and beefier? The 69/70 had oblong slots in the center but were all the same regardless of model?

I'm hoping someone would be willing to post a picture of each side by side so I can figure this out. Specifically I want to verify which one is my 67 Shelby GT500 version, my 1968 GT302, my 69 GT350 and my 70 Boss 302.   I'm aware it wasn't the brightest thing to do and mix parts and that extends to my ability to post pictures here or I would try that.  If someone has examples they can post great if not maybe I can line up what I have take a picture and email it directly to someone who would be willing to post it in this thread  :)  Thanks for your guidance.
#42
I recently pulled a few parts to repaint in my winter boredom and noticed the sway bars seem to have the same diameter and "bend".  I have one from my 1967 GT500, one that came off my 70 Boss.  I always assumed they would be different but with a quick visual they look the same- are they?   Those two have round holes for the end link mount and a third bar I have looks the same but is squared off after the end link mount hole.  Are the 67GT500 and 70 Boss the same?  Any idea what the third one was from (same diameter, curves but end of bar is straight versus rounded like the other two)??  Thanks for your thoughts.
#43
I am in the process of restoring individual parts for a 67BB 4spd, 69SB AT and a 70 Boss 4spd. I have a number of cross members with slight differences and am not sure what goes to what. If you look at eB a lot of ad's say everything fits 67-70 so that lessens my trust in the sellers as a whole.  I have a few versions, 1. One looks like a standard 67-70 contours but has two maybe 1/4 holes drilled through the center lip
2. Have others with no little holes as above
3. A couple where one side of the cutout goes in further on one side (mounting bolt to body mounting cut out area)  and the transmission mount slots in the center are more elongated than on 1 and 2
4. The last one has two frame mounting holes on one side and one on the other- probably fmx/c6 69/70.

I'm more familiar with the 65/66 which are basic but these have me second guessing myself. Can someone shed light on the "visual" differences between the year and applications? 
#44
I have a 67 and after years of different types of abuse I removed what little dried out padding was left from my original roll bar (wasn't savable).  So now I'm left with the dilemma should I
1) Leave the bar bare and paint it black so it and its mounting welds are original to the car
2) Put a few layers of the liquid rubber (plasti-dip) on it
3) Buy a repo bar and graft its rubber on it (knowing the repro's are 68 style so would not be exact)
4) Just buy an original with the rubber intact and in good shape and have it welded in and toss the old bar (may not end up with a factory look weld/install)

The car is in driver shape- cruise night car not a show car.   I would personally narrow it down to option 1 or 4.  Thoughts on 1-4??
#45
Concours Talk / I need an education on glass!
October 22, 2019, 01:26:05 PM
I have a number of mustangs from 1965 to 1970 and a couple of them are projects and I need to put glass back in them.  A recent comment made about the rear glass of all 67 fastbacks being tinted made me question the use of glass through the years. I figured it would help me and maybe others here understand the uses of certain glass through the early years 1965-1970. My question is about fastbacks (Mustang/Boss/Shelby) but you are welcome to detail other body styles.

1965 and 1966- I assume clear or tinted available and rear glass matched the door glass. Front windshield clear or tinted and tinted only had an upper dark tinted band?

1967 and 1968- I assume clear or tinted available and rear glass matched the door glass (or rear glass was always tinted? [you can buy clear or tinted if you don't have originals]) and rear window had the line down the middle top to bottom. Front windshield clear or tinted and tinted only had an upper dark tinted band (what color band)?

1969-1970- I assume clear or tinted available and rear glass matched the door glass. Front windshield clear or tinted and tinted had an upper dark tinted band (what color band)?
#46
A once large mustangs parts seller here in CT (MU) is selling off what's left of its inventory with big discounts. I am always finding and working on mustang projects and saw that they had clear rear fastback glass for 67/68's and was thinking of getting a couple.  Some projects I don't care about originality so basic functional repops work.   I know repro glass, even if they are marked with original style factory markings, are usually thinner. What I can't seem to remember is about the visual "seam" down the middle that stretches from the center of the deck lid up to the roof.  Is that seam/ peak or whatever it's called present on all factory 67's and 68's?  The repro glass doesn't have it.
#47
Wanted to Buy / Wanted- Pueblo Ford Items Tuscon AZ
September 30, 2019, 02:50:13 PM
My car was sold in June 1967 through Pueblo Ford 6420 E 22nd St Tucson AZ and dealer # 75B599.  The dealer was also known as Horton Weber's Pueblo Ford. I have a couple copies of ad's from them but was hoping to find a license plate frame, key chain, brochures or other original dealer items that were from that January -July 1967 timeframe. Thought it would be niced to piece together some info and items on it if I can find some.  If you have anything feel free to PM me.  Thanks. 
#48
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Color on backside of nose piece?
September 17, 2019, 08:16:34 AM
The nose of my May 67 had a one inch crack near the bumber bracket and I had it repaired. Before I put it back on I figured I'd confirm that the back side isn't painted body color and is black like the underside of the hood and trunk lid?   The black looks like maybe a satin? Thanks in advance for your help.
#49
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / How to mount nose on a 67
August 22, 2019, 08:45:01 AM
I have a late 67 Shelby and the hood and nose were removed when the engine was pulled for rebuilding. I didn't do the removal and am now left with trying to figure out the correct way to reattach it. The lazy way would be to get some nuts and bolts and just attach it.  However, I'd rather attach it the way it was originally done. Does anyone have any pictures of the fasteners (so I can try to match mine up) and of the process?  Any special spacers or brackets? Do bolts face towards the front or back?  Honestly I have no idea how there were originally mounted and with what and was hoping for some guidance.
#50
Not mine.  Just stumbled across a GT500 on facebook marketplace that's located in Westminster MA. Maroon, rusty underneath and outside but looks pretty complete in pictures.  Maybe this guys find is someone's dream car so just passing it along.
#51
I was looking at some 67 fenders I have last night and noticed the coupe ones I have look exactly like my original Shelby ones.  They both seemed to have the inner lip at the top turned/rolled in a little (factory look- not rolled by a back yard hot rodder).  The only difference I noticed between the std mustang and Shelby fenders were emblem holes.  Long story for a short question- were they all the same?
#52
I have a 70 boss and was missing the orig. rear spoiler. I now have one to put on my car but was wondering about the reinforcement brackets that go on the inside of the decklid (underside).  Were they used for all 69 and 70 mustangs with spoiler or was it based on plant or implemented in a certain month? Don't want to find and add them if they weren't correct for my car.  Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
#53
I saw the car in person but it was hard to tell how well it was done from behind a rope. I didn't get to see when it sold- anyone see how much it went for?
#54
I plan to strip my 67 hood and 69 side ducts (still up in the air about razor blading it off, chemical strip or sanding the hood off mechanically). Years ago when I worked on a corvette everyone applied "gelcoat" over the fiberglass even if most of the factory sealer was intact. I'm guessing that chances are that I'll be exposing some bare fiberglass and want to ensure nothing shows through the paint when its time. My question is do I need to go find gelcoat from a place like Ecklers or will epoxy primer do just as good?  What are people using to seal their hoods, noses, scoops etc?
#55
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Shoulder Belt Length?
June 05, 2019, 10:00:11 AM
I was offered up a pair of Shelby shoulder belts for what the owner was claiming to be 67 belts (no tags).  The length from the very bottom of the vinyl inverted "V" area at the top near wheel it goes into the inertia reel to the tip of the end chrome buckle looked a little short.  I want to have the owner measure them for me before I spend anymore time on it.  Can someone post the length of those shoulder belt straps to arm me with the correct info. Thanks in advance.
#56
In April I placed an order with M Unlimited for both a 67 GT500 and a 70Boss 302 driveshaft with yoke.  My Shelby one was not in great shape and since its a driver felt a shinny new bare metal one at $430 with yoke would be nice to have and I am missing the boss one (last one I had made for a regular 65 cost me more).   I just called for a status today and was told they cancelled my order with no reason.  Do any of the other major parts dealers sell them?  I wanted to avoid dealing with getting one made from a small or mom and pop kind of place and liked the cost and free shipping the major parts seller would offer.  If anyone has a good source let me know.  Thanks.
#57
I'm beginning to look at spring projects and pulled out a few Dash panels I have and cant for the life of me find pictures on the internet to show me what time frames the dash panels I have are for.  Can someone confirm what year these are for and if there is a date when the design changed from what I am guessing is a 69 panel (small metal section about where column goes) versus the 70 (with more metal framing above where the column goes).  Thanks for your input in identifying the application of these.
#58
Concours Talk / How to get the look? seam sealer
February 06, 2019, 04:01:29 PM
I've seen numerous interior trunk pictures of original 67/68 cars and where the inner wheel meets the trunk floor and across the back where the tail panel meets the rear floor cross member I see very thick sealer that is painted over with body color.  How are you guys reproducing that factory look?  It looks way to thick to be spray undercoat I've used and looks way to sprayed on to be any kind of caulk/seam sealer.   It would be kind of neat to try an reproduce the look
#59
Sorry for such a basic question but my general Google search didn't give me many details. I'm not a 67 expert so need a little help for my San Jose car built in May.

I know the décor group had brushed aluminum dash and door panels, door speaker grates, hard plastic seat backs/bottoms- anything else? would tilt steering be included or would that be listed specifically/on its own on a Marti Report?

What about the courtesy light group? I have no idea what's included with that.
#60
1969-1970 Boss 302/429 / Rivets- whats correct?
December 04, 2018, 08:41:53 AM
I went and looked at a collection of 69 and 70 fastback projects and parts cars this past weekend (non-Shelby). I noticed that the vin tag at the base of the windshield on the interior of the car were fastened by different style rivets so I put any purchases on hold being wary.  Some had regular round rivets, some had the flower type rivets (think maybe GM used them back in the day), and one had one of each!  What is the correct style rivet? What if any differences are related to where they were made and when? I'm not a 69/70 expert so any guidance would be appreciated