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Messages - Bossssssss

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1
A K3 wheel was made in Philadelphia and K2 are Windsor Ontario Canada.  Without a doubt most of the 1968 Shelby wheels were K2.  Not to say that maybe a K3 didn't make it in from time to time.  There were also K1 plants and K4.  K is for Kelsey Hayes, and number is plant code.

Scott Fuller

Thank you for the additional information!

2
Probably something like a Country Squire wagon?

Thank you!

3
I believe the K28 are original Shelby wheels, but the K38 are not. Having said that it’s probably identical wheel, except for the stampings so once the hubcap was on, no one would know.

Thank you.
Do you have any idea what the K38 wheel made in USA originally came on (since/if not an original Shelby wheel)?

thank you again

4
From your description they sound correct.

Here is a thread with some pictures:

https://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=1473.0

Thank you for the link to that tread. I read where they are supposed to have round center holes just under 2.5 inches, so I checked mine and all three are round and just under 2.5 inches.

Just another question that I am hoping you can confirm (or not): So some of these rims were made in Canada and some were made in USA?

Thanks again

5
Looking to ID steel wheels.

I have 3 steel wheels. Not 100% sure what they are.

All are 15X6 and have the Ford bolt patten.

All 3 wheels each have four 'knobs' and four 'vent holes'.

All 3 wheels have FoMoCo in script stamped into them near the lug nut holes.

Two have 'Made in CANADA' and one has 'Made in U.S.A'. inscribed in the rim shell where the air would be.

The two that are made in Canada have

K2
8

adjacent to the valve stems and:

one has '2' and '14' '6' stamped into it near the valve stem (on either side of it)
one has '2' and '15' '6' stamped into it near the valve stem (on either side of it)

The one made in USA has:

K3
8

and has '5' and '26' stamped into it near the valve stem hole (on either side of it).


All three of them have the 68 Shelby hubcaps that are on them. So I think they may be 68 Shelby but not sure.

Can anyone help me ID these rims?

TIA

 




6
Parts For Sale / Re: 67-68 NOS Wheel Lip Moldings
« on: July 04, 2023, 11:57:52 AM »
last photo

7
Parts For Sale / 67-68 NOS Wheel Lip Moldings
« on: July 01, 2023, 05:48:49 PM »
In wrappers.

C7ZZ-16039-B           Pass Side Front   No attaching parts - no screws
C7ZZ-16038-B           Driver Side Front with attaching parts
C7ZZ-6529164-A   Driver Side Rear   with attaching parts
C7ZZ-6529165-A   Pass Side Rear   No attaching parts - no screws
 
$1200 plus shipping (I will take box to UPS to get shipping cost after you commit and provide your address).

Pictures avail but they are in wrappers so hard to see them.

Please PM me if interested and provide your email address if you want photos.

I live in upstate NY where I will ship them from.

Thank You. 

8
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: Need Help with braking problem
« on: June 05, 2023, 08:04:51 PM »
Went through this last year with 1432. I could not figure it out initially. Hunted down and changed rear wheel cylinders with different diameter ones. No change. Sent booster back to Booster Steve to have him check it. No issue with it. 

 Proportional valve shuttle slide to one side (and I did not know it) when I initially bled the brakes.

When bleeding the brakes in a dry or even semi dry line car (I had changed only my front to back line) what can happen and did happen to me is the shuttle inside the prop valve slid to one side (due to the pressure differential).

Always use this tool that locks the shuttle in the middle until after you get fluid in the entire system: https://musclecarresearch.com/brake-valve-tool

Oh, and make sure the 'brake' light bulb in the dash is hooked up and is not burned out (like mine was). If mine had not been burned out, it would have been more obvious and saved me a lot of headaches.

Lastly, make sure to remove tool and hook your plunger/wire back up before driving the car.

9
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: question for the experts
« on: February 08, 2021, 08:43:53 AM »
Thanks Guys. Mine must be a repro as my back cover does not have the text in the lower right corner (on the back cover) and my warranty page does not have that white sticker/overlay on it.

It came out of a 68 350 4 speed car I owned many years ago. I forgot all about it until I did some cleaning this past weekend and found it in a drawer.

Wish it was an original but no such luck LOL.

Thanks again and you guys are the best!

10
1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / question for the experts
« on: February 07, 2021, 10:56:24 AM »
Hi,
I have a 68 Shelby owners manual and was wondering how to tell an original from a reproduction.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks in Advance.

11
TTT (REVISED PRICE)

12
I was saving this wheel for many years waiting for a 69 to mount it on. I don't see that in the cards so I am selling the steering wheel.

This ORIGINAL FORD steering wheel would be perfect in a survivor car. Its EXTEREMELY nice. Has Mustang pad.

A few minor issues but they are on the back and very hard to see and would not visible when mounted on car, but still a very very nice steering wheel that surpasses most that I have seen mounted on cars.  It would take year or pot luck to find a nicer original steering wheel.

Rim blow switch tested with ohm meter (works fine).

Pictures available. Please PM me your email address and I will respond.

1600 free shipping (REVISED PRICE) in the Continental USA.

Thank you for the space.



13
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: September 23, 2020, 03:29:01 PM »
I would remove as much material as needed to mount the clips. IIRC I drilled my holes through the screw holes on the cover and then ground away the 'glass panel as needed so the clips when installed were aligned with the holes. Gary

Thank you Gary. That sounds like a great approach. I am going to implement the same procedure.

thanks again,
Mark

14
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: September 22, 2020, 04:43:17 PM »
Thanks Peter and Gary. So if I read you correctly, I would need to install the U-shaped clip around the cut I just made such that aligns with each of the 4 (four) side holes I drilled into the side panels for mounting the cover.  Is this correct?

Also, what about the one hole on the bottom/base of the side cover that goes horizontally (down)? I assume the same thing?  When I cut my panels I took off minimal material and kept fitting them as I went. I did not/don't have a template so I am not sure how close I am to the original cuts that the factory did. What I do know is I probably have more material than they did as mine are a very tight fit right now and require a bit of finagling to get them installed and or removed. I think the bottom hole would require me to remove more material toward the inside of the car (in order to get a u-shaped clip installed).

thanks again for any insight.


15
1969-1970 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: question for the experts
« on: September 22, 2020, 01:18:01 PM »
Thank you Peter. I also looked at Marcus Anghel's interior panel ID document and in it he shows a picture in the lower right of a 69 interior panel with the cover attached:

http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/5/1/2/35122002/quarter_trim_panels_v1.1.pdf

It appears the the one screw/screw hole (on the right/forward of cover and top, ie top right in picture) that is normally used for attaching the panel on non-Shelby's is also used to secure the cover to the panel and the panel to the car. The other fasterners appear to be screws but those would not have holes drilled into the car (so yes I assume some sort of clip on the back side to hold the screw in while securing the cover to the panel). I will check around on AMK's site.

Thank you again for your help!
 

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