SAAC Forum

Quote from: Sxty8KR on February 27, 2020, 06:04:07 PM
  So I've had my KR for a few years now. This might be simplistic and I would think noticeable, but when I first got the car I noted a good amount heat coming up thru the 4 speed shifter area. The rubber boot that covers the mechanism under the floor was missing. Replaced that and had a noticeable decrease in cabin heat.   

Thanks for the information. My lower boot has been cut away by a previous owner so I'll be replacing that and see how it goes.

Quote from: TLea on February 20, 2020, 08:06:26 PM
I wrote an article on how to do it. It's on concours mustang forum

Yes Tim ,you did and the article was a great help when I did mine.

Only use the correct AMK rivets and hire the gun.

I'm in Australia and had to buy two sets of rivets as we couldn't get the correct gun that AMK has so it was trial and error. 

You're restoring a KR and it needs to be done right.

Well in that case I should just gas up my a/c and run it when driving.

Being that yours is a non a/c car does it stay cooler for you if you ran the heater setting to  cool on the temp setting (middle lever) and screen or face vents as opposed to floor?

Also if you select off and put the fan on do you get air coming out of the floor level?

Royce, thank you for you sage advice.

That diagram was reproduced in the link I had attached earlier and is helpful.

My vacuum operated valve ( door/flap actuator ) seems to be moving and holding vacuum. However what I found was that when the door should be closed and the fan is switched on I feel the same amount of air flowing to the floor as when it is open so I'm wondering if there is something not allowing the door to stay closed. It is closed when i direct air to the screen and face level as no air goes to the floor.

Well guys I don't seem to have that problem as it appears that a previous owner ( AKA knucklehead ) has removed the boot and screwed t to my console with the metal retainer. Looks ok as is practical but obviously is not correct.

I guess that's why I can access the bolts on the shift without any hassle. Now my big issue will be to return it back to original by fitting it under the carpet and replacing the faux wood grain vinyl.

So its the same as the 65/66 Shift with the the pull up lever, because I've pulled that one out and the cable is part of the shift

Last time i replaced the roll pin i did with the the shifter in the car but I think i will take it off and work on the bench.

Is there any issues in unbolting the 2 bolts from the shifter to the linkage mechanism that i should watch out for or is it a straight unbolt and remove with the cable coming with the shift

So I found a link which I included in this post and it gives a great view and description of what is going on with the Selectaire system.

I does mention the operation of the heater control valve

3. Electrical and vacuum functions are illustrated here. When you apply heat, you are moving the Bowden cable, which affects the heat control door and hot water valve function. The hot water valve is either on or off depending upon vacuum application. Each vacuum port at the vacuum regulator directs vacuum to the appropriate servo motor depending upon control position.


http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/interior-electrical/1601-troubleshooting-classic-mustang-climate-control

Can't road test today as it is bad and stormy weather in Melbourne so I've done just run it in my garage.

What I found so far is the vacuum is operating fine as it changes direction of air flow from screen to face to floor so the doors are operating.

However I found that in the off position on the 1 lever and with the cool setting on the centre lever of the control which runs the Bowden cable the fan running in all 3 speeds blows air into the floor area  just like when it is in the heat position.

So I'm thinking that either the door doesn't fully close or the foam is deteriorated. The amount of air passing through is the same so I don't think it deteriorated foam with a closed door as the closed door should still reduce the air flow even if it allows some through.

The door actuator is moving all the way in and out when operating the Bowden cable to and from the heat position so its moving the door from open to closed, but is it closing all the way.

So I'm wondering if there is any adjustment that can be made to close the door totally shut without having to pull out the box.

Just another note....the centre lever doesn't sit in the up position (cool) when i let go of it as it springs down a little, but it will sit in the down (heat)

Is it my iPad or is the car painted black. I note in the first post it stated it was highland green but most pictures look black with one of the LH fender and hood looking green in the most recent pictures posted?

So just wondering if someone can add light as to what the correct fitting is to secure the cable in the shift...is it a roll pin or something with a head or grub screw?

Guys, thanks for your suggestions.

As i mentioned in my initial post my first step will be to bypass the heater core to isolate heat in the heater box.

I'm in Australia, being summer and bushfire season here at the moment i've got a hot couple of days with temps expected to be around 110 deg Fahrenheit. Obviously I don't need extra heat in the car.

Thanks Bob, if it is a faulty vacuum or duct function is there any way to check it without pulling out the heater box?

When I got my KR the 4 speed shifter had a nail in the lockout pull-up lever to attach the reverse cable lock out.

I replaced it with a roll pin of tempered sprung steel. All was good until today.

Went for a drive in the countryside and stopped for a coffee. When I got back into the car and tried to select reverse the pull up lever had lost the roll pin and the cable was gone down the shaft. My assumption is that pull u the ever compresses the roll pin and it can move out of its rest posting in the lever under the knob.

If i put another roll pin in I'm afraid it may happen again.

If I put a nail back in it is wrong and feels bad between my fingers.

What has everyone else done to solve the problem........roll pin I'm guessing.

Haven't bypassed the heater core yet but that's the first thing I will do to rule out a heater box or as you suggest the water valve in the engine bay.