SAAC Forum

I have a L+R pair of fronts which I will only sell as a pair. PM sent.

Years ago there was a puff piece done I think in Mustang Monthly on Jerry's (Telestar Motors) restorations . Special Ed remembers. They showed a picture of a junk pile of misc parts and the caption bragged if Jerry couldn't find a part he needed then he just made it! hmmmmm?

Quote from: SCJSTU on April 23, 2024, 03:05:10 PM

Quote from: TLea on April 23, 2024, 02:17:46 PMI saw this car in person maybe 7-8 years ago. Its a restamped 351W car. Stay away

as in fender aprons?

-and most likely everything else. Tlea first hand observations confirms that.   

If wanting information for a world of wheels custom look then expect if the car that the exhaust manifolds are on is driven much at all the look not to last. Chrome would turn blue because of the heat in short order and things like oil or grease would burn black and stick to chrome or silver jet hot paint. A very high maintenance look that is typically not acceptable by most. 

With the 65/66 cars being close to 60 years old a lot of the proportioning valves have been replaced. One way to tell if a proportioning is most likely replaced with a service unit is by looking at the top surface where the fittings are. It seems like that starting in the later 60's the mfg machining process changed. The later proportioning valve had that top machined flat. The assemblyline and probably early service units had a machined circle centered around each fitting opening . The circular machining left a ridge around the outside perimeter of the circle which is visibly pronounced. The picture shows the later NOS service valve with flat top on the left and the assemblyline unit with the pronounced witness ridge from the circular machining process on the right. 

Quote from: 68krrrr on April 22, 2024, 09:40:05 PMI'm liking these wheels on this fastback looks like the Pantera Campagnolo wheels I'm guessing

You guessed correctly.

Quote from: Road Reptile on April 22, 2024, 03:22:34 PMHi Roddster,
Just matched this with a few other early cars and so far all 3 have Rockford hardware
which appears to be phosphate/oil finish. Looks like Rockford is still in business so
they should be fairly easy to find. Hope this helps.
R.R. 

I have also seen the no marking bolts and RBW used. I have not seen the 3 slash grade 5 or dorman marked bolts in the examples that I have observed that appeared undisturbed.

Quote from: Mikelj5S230 on April 22, 2024, 04:39:49 PMOK, what would have been in the glove box of a newly delivered '65 GT350 from the dealer? Thanks.

Some of the items in the packet are not reproduced like the detroit locker manual and the Koni shock brochure. Others are reproduced like the regular Mustang owners manual and 65 high performance manual and 65 GT350 owners manual. I have never seen or heard of a NOS unused 65 owners manual. It is actually a supplement and the regular Mustang owners manual would be expected to be in the glovebox too.  Nice used original 65 GT350 owners manauls can sell for 5,000.00 + each . The Koni manual is hard to find too but not in the same price category as the owner's manual. Next hardest is the detroit locker manual. Your friend Vern would be the go to guy if wanting to find some of the original items. Keep in mind that repro items can make good place holders for originals as you find them .    

Quote from: silverton_ford on April 22, 2024, 05:45:35 PMHere is a good example. - http://1965gt350mustang.com/litmem/lm12.html

"Not all 1965 GT350's had owners packets. If you received one with your car, this is what was included: Detroit Locker GT350 booklet, GT350 owners manual, Koni shocks information sheet, how to care for plexiglas sheet (not sure why this was in the 1965 packet - I have seen these in the 1966 GT350 packet to care for the quarter windows), 1965 Mustang owners manual, and a 1965 High Performance Equipment manual."

I have not heard of the plexiglass sheet being included in a 65 owners packet . As you mentioned it wouldn't make sense like it would for a 66 GT 350.

You do need to determine if the Z bar is twisted or not before you go and buy parts. If not the Z bar look at pedal support bracket for oblong or destroyed pivot (where pedal is secured) as has been mentioned . The clutch fork can also be a source if the rod has worn a hole into the fork allowing it to dig into the fork metal as has been mentioned . If all of those things are OK and intact it is time for a new or rebuilt clutch and pressure plate.Your go to Mustang restoration shop should be of help determine which course of action to take if all of this is over your head.   

Quote from: deathsled on April 22, 2024, 03:53:20 PMThank you gentlemen.  I am overwhelmed with the great response.  Since 843 is a day two car I am going to go for upgrades.  The required work and replacement is over my head.  If I tried it I would screw it up somehow.  Cobra Automotive will charge to the rescue with their parts.  I have used them in the past and love the whole outfit.  I still dwell on those Trans Am lug nuts they sold me.  They look so choice on the Torqs.  I suppose when the term "twist" is used in reference to the Z bar it isn't some shifting of where it might be bolted to but an actual bending or distortion of the metal in the bar.  My best option is to get the Cobra Automotive parts and bring the car over to East Dundee's Mustang Restorations.  I will likely take the hit on labor but better that than trying a little science experiment in my garage.    The car was originally an automatic.  I cannot state where they pedal assembly came from.  Thank you all for your helpful input.

Cobra Automotive has many great products but I didn't see anything special about the Cobra Automotive Z bar online except the high price. I think your best and also most economical bet is to buy the inexpensive 65 66 Z bar and (take top pivot part off for 66) and have your Mustang Restoration shop weld some metal gussets on it like what was done in the previous picture of a modified bar. At least that is what I and others have done for many decades with positive results.Of course this is a typical day 2 mod . The concours crowd just replaces the bent original type Z bar with another unmodified Z bar every so often as needed .   

I thought I would mention that if replacing the Z bar that the 65 and 66 GT350 do not need the special hipo Z bar. The hipo Z bar is to provide clearance around the special hipo cast iron exhaust manifolds. The 65/66 GT350 used tri Y headers and consequently can use ether OE hipo Z bar or the non hipo Z bar. The non hipo Zbar actually fits better because it gives more clearance around the tri Y header tubes compared to the hipo Z bar. Just some information to provide you with alternatives if needed.

It looks like you are at the end of your adjustment from the picture. Make sure your Z bar is not twisted which can effect adjustment. If all in order then it may be time to replace your clutch and pressure plate which I would recommend replacing at the same time.

Quote from: J_Speegle on April 21, 2024, 03:36:19 PM

Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 20, 2024, 11:07:18 PMI am tying to get a consensus on the number of threads showing on undisturbed 65 66 GT350 proportioning valve adjuster.

Not all om those that I have pictures of are at the right angle to count the number of thread but here is what I have on file. The number of visible threads likely vary based on what side your viewing from




Just 1966 models below in a fairly quick pass through the pictures

1- Approx 10 threads or 3/4" from base to end two additional thread past the base of the reliefs in the sides

2- Approx 10 - one additional thread past the base of the reliefs in the sides

3- Approx 15 (later car)

4- 4 threads pass the relief in the side of the threaded

5- Approx 15 (later car)

6- Approx 11 (later car)

7- Approx 2-3 past the relief

8- Approx 12

9- Approx 3 past the end of the relief PS

10- Approx 3 past the end of the relief PS - Carry over car

Hope this helps

Quote from: J_Speegle on April 21, 2024, 03:36:19 PM

Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 20, 2024, 11:07:18 PMI am tying to get a consensus on the number of threads showing on undisturbed 65 66 GT350 proportioning valve adjuster.

Not all om those that I have pictures of are at the right angle to count the number of thread but here is what I have on file. The number of visible threads likely vary based on what side your viewing from




Just 1966 models below in a fairly quick pass through the pictures

1- Approx 10 threads or 3/4" from base to end two additional thread past the base of the reliefs in the sides

2- Approx 10 - one additional thread past the base of the reliefs in the sides

3- Approx 15 (later car)

4- 4 threads pass the relief in the side of the threaded

5- Approx 15 (later car)

6- Approx 11 (later car)

7- Approx 2-3 past the relief

8- Approx 12

9- Approx 3 past the end of the relief PS

10- Approx 3 past the end of the relief PS - Carry over car

Hope this helps

All of those observations indicate a regular Mustang adjusted proportioning valve regardless of if in a original car or not. Any threads after the relief on the side of the adjuster represents more then 10 threads. Possible replaced like many have with a service unit which is adjusted to regular Mustang specs from Ford.

Quote from: shelbymann1970 on April 21, 2024, 09:51:43 AM

Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 28, 2024, 11:47:02 AMJust for clarification. The later genuine Ford service replacements also had the black background face. The assemblyline had the dark gray . The repros all had black background BESIDES the other dial details mentioned . There are companys that can change the background of the genuine Ford service replacements so that they will look like the assemblyline in every other detail.

I think the ones I see now repo have  a dark gray face(Branda see link) but the face themselves isn't correct on the oil pressure the line points to a zero instead of the 5. Are you saying there are correct printings out there for the gauge faces? Who does them exact? Thanks. Gary
https://www.ebay.com/itm/335119813824?itmmeta=01HW0EP536MHHYYBCKM7E543MM&hash=item4e06b28cc0:g:TgYAAOSwo3pWcDKm&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwCX4iKzFW%2FV9RHoI0mUV%2Flptlt17hO7PVyak%2B%2BEXR2R%2F2LLyDTSgLFejk%2B%2BctRiEC7Ul2lp2DoVJWvX9pBunBDwQk0blunf4ZkgavktJ1nPKlT6FFNHRK5lueHxDagd%2FNnskkxvVUcP2zeESMQG2CrgewPz7dnmvicMqBTg%2FWvheGZM4gz%2Fqfb53nTaFu%2F7VqySXxco%2FdEAwEIktTOH5xI%2Bu8cddG7EpVD6R%2F5%2BbZ9QnduelssRFdJ6sNZJqHY2msw%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR9bR2I7gYw

No Gary I did not say that there was repro gauges out there with exact printing as you seem to imply. Apparently sometimes it seems that repro mfg listen because that Branda link gauges do look like a dark gray background. There are gauge restorers that can restore your gauge face to the assemblyline look. Precision is one company.