SAAC Forum

Current auction shows a Falcon plenum and not a Mustang heater delete plenum like the description claims . The Mustang version has the hinge on the other side and consequently the door opens opposite of the one on auction.  https://www.ebay.com/itm/265009105859 .This is a relatively common part on a Falcon. It goes on the driver side on a Falcon.I included a picture of the page 17 of the body assemblyline manual which has a illustration of a proper Mustang heater delete plenum . You can see that the door opens on the opposite side .I just want the buyer to know what they are getting for what they are paying regardless of if a clone or a genuine car.

I thought I would point out some deficiencies in the description that this heater hose in the auction https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1973-Ford-Mustang-GT-Shelby-Mercury-Cougar-NOS-HEATER-WATER-HOSE-50-Ft-ROLL/154222638867  being sold at a concours correct price is anything but . This roll of NOS hose is the same style and appearance of 5/8 hose you can buy at your local auto parts store today. The smooth not ribbed like assemblyline version is all you could get from Ford now for about the last 40 years or so. To top it off it is the usual suspect Andrew hyping a phony part. Buyer beware.

  The add claims "One of the nicest 65 Shelbys in existence!!  This car is a 99 point #1 car "  I think seller means to imply 99 point out of 100 by the attitude and also using #1. It talks about award winning restoration however with a claimed Aug 2020 restoration completion date I am unaware of any concours venues the car could have entered to attain awards. Those are quite the bragging points . I see many Shelby 101 mistakes and out of the ordinary build techniques . Does anyone else?. Of course it still looks like a outstanding car but before someone flames me for picking on the car think about when someone makes brags on such lofty claims and then puts them on the premier Shelby information forum on the planet it is not unreasonable to expect there might be some push back. It is a little insulting given the mistakes seen that nothing would be said . If nothing is said being posted with those claims on this forum can have a tendency to add legitimacy to the mistakes to the uninformed. The seller needs to do more homework because it would be far from 99 point out of 100 in the present state if entered in MCA trailered or SAAC concours in it's present state.

 Used Scoop Duct from a 66 GT350 . 50.00 plus 10.00 shipping . Shipping to US address only. Paypal only please. PM me if interested. Thank you for looking.

I found this while going through some parts and can't remember what this is to . I am pretty good at 65-70 Mustang parts but this one has got me stumped. Anyone know what this is and what the application?

There is a right way and a wrong way to duplicate the factory upper shock brackets .They are also sometimes referred to as "bee hives" by the factory. 65/66 are the same bracket and 67-70 are the same bracket . The washers used to make the reinforcement is the same for ether style. I posted a picture of a example in a recent ebay auction of a 67-70 version made wrong with too large of washers. The seller used the larger diameter frame rail washers typically used on the steering box or idler arm. As you can see they look close.  They are too large in diameter compared to genuine. This is a shortcut many choose to use. AMK sells the correct size washers if you want to make some like the factory did . The assemblyline washer is approximately 28.5 MM and the frame rail washers are approximately 32. It is a small amount but visually noticeable. It made me go hmmmm when I saw the auction. Most people would not notice the difference but many who use and have been around these parts will. This is a case of go home and try again.

Here are some 67-70 upper shock brackets that are made wrong because the seller used the larger diameter frame rail washers typically used on the steering box or idler arm. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-1968-1969-1970-Shelby-Mustang-Shock-Tower-Caps/193688867749  . As you can see they look close.  They are too large in diameter compared to genuine. This the shortcut many choose to use. AMK sells the correct size washers if you want to make some like the factory did . The assemblyline washer is approximately 28.5 MM and the frame rail washers are approximately 32. It is a small amount but visually noticeable. It made me go hmmmm when I saw the auction. Most people would not notice the difference but many who use and have been around these parts will. This is a case of go home and try again. 

Here is a example of on purpose description manipulation to give a uninformed buyer the feeling that the part represented is legitimate. Click on this link  https://www.ebay.com/itm/1969-1970-Shelby-GT350-GT500-1966-67-Galaxie-w-427-ORIG-AMMETER-JUNCTION-BLOCK/164402033969 This is just ONE example of many other of his auction descriptions with mis information meant to misdirect by the seller Andrew at magmustangs .  In this case it is a Shelby terminal block typically used on 67-70 Shelby's. In this case his auction description is meant to imply that a 70's replacement part different in appearance to the ones used on the assembly line is the right one for your 69/70 Shelby .Typically the right one is what Ford used on the assemblyline or a close reproduction.  This auction part will function for the application but at the starting bid of 89.00 a new 10.00 autoparts store replacement will work too and be just as correct in comparison . He knows better because this has been pointed out in the past by me. I have been blocked from contacting the seller no doubt partly because of the numerous times I have pointed out his mistakes some of which are on purpose and others probably not. He also reads these threads so no doubt upset for me bringing attention to his malicious deceptive auction descriptions . In this case the service part is genuine Ford as he proclaims in bold print so as to increase comfort level ,although a different shaped replacement. He even boast of the engineering number . As he proclaims " Molded D0SB-14448-A" . The first two letter and number D=70's decade and 0 =year indicates it is for a 70's era car and not a 69 or 70 converted from a 69 shelby. Nowhere does he elude that it is specifically for a 69/70 Shelby. These things cover him if and when someone disputes the description . He is covered for the application by saying just enough to get a misdirected point across. At a 89.00 he is looking to make a out of the park home run out of a otherwise worthless used part. This car used to not be this way but over the years has gotten worse and worse with his descriptions. I don't begrudge him trying to make a living but I do take exception when he tries to do it dishonestly .He does sell with honest descriptions on some of his auctions but buyer beware and be informed. Do not take him at his word .Double and triple check before buying from this seller. There have been warning threads before and think it is about time to bring it to the top again. You may wonder about the 100% satisfaction level. He is selling to mostly uninformed buyers many of which no doubt never know they have be been conned . Others may find out later but it is too late or when filling a claim his description says just enough to cover him and so dispute is dropped. In the case a buyer realizes he has been conned many times it is easier to give a refund and move on . The refund prevents the negative feedback. The percentages are with him and with 17000 auctions he wins vastly more than he loses. FYI 17000 are only the ones that give him feedback at all . Many buyers don't or forget to leave feedback so his number is many more times . If just one person keeps from having a bad experience by bringing attention to this seller it will be all worth it. This of course this is all just my opinion. Those that know me can trust that I know what I am talking about and others that don't hopefully will be prompted to confirm further.

This post not meant to troll for drama but to inform those that may be under the misconception that 67 and 68 Shelby's typically had Le Mans stripes from the factory. Or installed by the Dealer. I had a forum member ask a question about the lay out of the stripes on the fastback body style and why they varied . From the tone of his message I got the impression that he thought it was a option and should have a standardized layout. Le mans Stripes were not designed for the 67/68 body style just the 65/66. They were not installed by the factory but typically past owners. I have yet to have ever seen or heard of anyone with evidence to support them even being installed by a dealer back in the day. It is likely some Dealer somewhere did back when the cars were new but apparently it was rarely done by a dealer if at all back when the cars were new. " The Dealer installed option " is so over used to justify anything out of the ordinary that it has lost all credibility without some reasonable back up evidence. That is not just my opinion but a sad fact. There is even a deduction (67/68) for LeMans stripes if entered in a concours regardless of venue because they were not factory . They are excepted in concours with reasonable evidence (hearsay from a past owner not typically accepted) of installation by the dealer when the car was sold to the first owner when new. FYI back in the day there was no tech info for dealers to apply the stripes for 65/66 back in the day (not all 65 and 66 came with factory Le Mans stripes) let alone 67/68 if they wanted to. The dealer was on his own and had to create the pattern himself . With that said that is why the stripe application technique varies from one car to the next on a 67/68. I suppose since they were never a factory or typically a dealer done application that there is not a wrong way just various ways that appeal to a variety of owners . I would suggest not striping the car first and then after spending time if you don't think it looks cleaner without the stripes and after if you just have to have them go and stripe the car doing so in the way that looks best to you. Once they are on there is no turning back. You can always put them on later if you choose but very hard to ever take them off. You would be surprised after living with the car without stripes how many owners choose to not put the Le Mans stripes on. Of course do what you think is best for you. It is your car after all. There are always those that feel compelled to justify ether way but there is no need to post why you put stripes on your car or why you did not . There are always a lot of good reasons ether way. To each their own . This post is just meant to provide information so that each owner can make a informed decision ether way that is best for them in case they were unaware.

For those that are not aware there is a correct and a incorrect way to position the stripes on 69/70 Shelby's regardless of if a convertible or a fastback. I see a lot that are done different then the way the stripe was designed and engineered to layout. Basically in the front the center stripe is centered or splits the front air scoop duct in the front fender and in the rear the center strip splits the reflector opening . In the rear after the stripe is applied the material over the rear marker light opening has a X sliced into it with a razor blade and the pie shapes are folded over to the inside of the trunk area. Improper application of the stripe is a very common mistake that restorers make. I see it all of the time. This is not to say that some factory stripes didn't get mis applied too. The workers were not given much time to apply their side. I have seen some horrendously bad crooked factory stripe jobs. If you are one of those that has to copy all of the mistakes done by the factory (not talking about factory sloppiness) then take a picture of the factory mis applied factory stripe for posterity if you plan on copying it. Besides explaining why you did something to others who notice how it is incorrect, in concours the stripe is expected to be as it was engineered to be applied unless you have some kind of reasonable proof to the contrary. Besides it just looks better aesthetically when done evenly like it was meant to be. The side stripes and how they are applied are a very important outside visual. If the rear reflectors are not centered it really stands out as uneven.   

I thought I would start out with a problem that many complain about before installing headers that don't fit or exhaust manifolds that hit shock towers. The installer may not know what is causing some of their problem.  It is somewhat common for the shock towers to slightly sag inward over time. I and others have referred to the phenomenon as big blockitis . It can effect smallblock engine cars too but predominantly it effects heavy bigblock engine cars. The sagging inward shock tower decreases clearance between the engine and the shock tower. If you install your engine or try and install headers without checking the shock towers for sag first you may make your life a little more stressful. I typically uses a original export brace as a measuring tool .I know a original is made right. If it drops on and lines up at the cowl and more importantly on the three upper shock bracket hold down bolts then your shock towers have not moved . Many people mistakenly think that it is normal to have to fight to get one in place. That is not supposed to be the case. If it doesn't fit one or both have moved.  I have successfully used a porta power to make adjustments bought at Harbor freight. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-ton-heavy-duty-portable-hydraulic-equipment-kit-62115.html .Don't forget to use a harbor freight 20% off coupon . You put it between the shock towers and spread the shock towers.You have the export brace laying on top so you can keep track of your progress. You spread a little farther then you need because once you release the tension from the jack the shock towers will have a tendency to spring back a little.You would be amazed at how much clearance room you can get with a slight shock tower adjustment. You can do this with the engine in the car but it is much harder to get good clearance (remove carb etc)  for the ram . I have successfully made the adjustment with the engine in the car but much easier without.  Lets keep it going and hear about some other tips.

I was replying to JD's post in a parts wanted thread which was directly related to the OP and the information he needed to post a accurate part wanted . The Moderator locked the thread. I invite JD to repost his great picture so those in the future searching will be able to benefit.

Quote from: JD on August 06, 2020, 12:42:04 PM
for those that may not know the Thompson (Ford) pumps are the ones painted metallic "teal/blue"  with a "F" stamped in the middle line of the metal tag and the TRW are the ones painted black with a "W" (IIRC) in the middle line if you still have the tag or can tell what the original color was.

Tom (OP) you are looking for the cast aluminum bracket not the stamped steel bracket?

JD you may want to add that if the tag is missing on the back of the pump that is not the only way to determine the MFG. The cast iron front of the PS pump will be marked by ether a FOMOCO in the rectangle on the Ford Thompson case or a "W" on the front of the TRW mfg case. Of course you would need to mate the case,tag and the aluminum bracket all the same MFG to be assemblyline correct .

I need a NOS or used smaller 2 1/2 inch diameter push on breather cap. I am looking for a factory Ford open emission breather cap(with no nipple) with ether FOMOCO in the oval or AUTOLITE marked. It can be ether painted or chrome. PM me if you find something .Thanks for checking.

 Ebay seller posted dark pictures of a emblem and claimed NOS .
   https://www.ebay.com/itm/193470500252  In the item specifics he listed Ford as the brand. He said it was new and he had only taken it out of the bag for pictures. My  Reprodar was activated. Repros come in bags genuine Ford came in boxes . When asked if the emblem was plastic or metal he said metal. That was a innocent enough question which the uninformed assume the genuine were metal and the repro was inferior more fragile plastic chrome.The metal repro emblems are one of the few things that can be said are made better then the originals.The color of the repro emblem plaque itself not so much.  He replied it was pot metal and said he would post better pictures. The pictures were a little better and this time showed damage enough to which would render a repro unexceptionable let alone a genuine one.You still couldn't tell if it was the mustard gold background repro or the more true gold original. He said he bought it at a estate auction of a Cobra Mustang collector. True or not that seems to be a common story for uninformed sellers at any rate he is trying to pass it off as genuine. Maybe he thinks it is . i would like to think that rather then him pulling a pookie scam.  At the 80.00 opening bid I am not going to waste anymore time . I suppose since he says it is a Ford brand a ebay buyer would have recourse against the seller if they could prove a repro but how many buyers would get it and not know the difference.  I thought I would bring it up here so no one falls for it.

This question seems to confuse a lot of newer enthusiasts who think that they know better so I thought I would make it perfectly clear . 67 Shelby's regardless of if GT350 or GT500 were meant to use the same typical big block power steering bracket used in regular Mustang.  One bracket used in both. The small block regular Mustang bracket was not used. Why used on both is not so clear but maybe because the same power steering hoses from the control valve to the rubber junction block are the same big block regular Mustang hoses that were used in both GT350 GT500. I suppose I could have explained it the the way Special ED sometime does ,"That's just the way it is" .  Thank Virginia Mustang for the easy grab pictures.

I thought I would post a interesting DIY on how to fix a broken horn wire contact  inside the Shelby steering wheel. There are other issues talked about for general horn performance in case you are lucky enough not to have a broken wire inside the steering wheel. http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=22158.0;topicseen#msg139274

I am not sure why the seller is referring to the hose as NOS . https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-1967-MUSTANG-SHELBY-GT500-390-P-S-CONTROL-VALVE-TO-PRESSURE-HOSE-C7ZZ-3494-A/174174513205   The cracked rubber ,substantial corrosion on metal fittings and tubing,and what appears as dirt and grease all over are more the definition of used not NOS (New Old Stock). He might get some push back from a un informed buyer when they discover it is not new unused as described. Buyer beware.

Forum member who should know better after being told is trying to sell a jack as original because it came in the car  . As if that gives him a pass. https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Shelby-Mustang-GT-350-GT-500-MagStar-Wheels-3-4-Scissor-Jack-Original-SAAC/193311882123  . Buyer beware.

Funny thing that I saw in the staging line while at BJ. The K code was being sold by a restorer who came over to me as he saw me checking the engine bay out. He started to brag how many he had done before. I had a hard time keeping a straight face while listening to him and after seeing the things I saw. My eye was drawn to what looked like carriage bolts with the tops ground flat that held the coil spring cover. I wondered why he had to do that ? Apparently the hood was hitting them when closed. Why would that happen? I could not keep from breaking into a grin when I saw that the hood bumpers were installed upside down  .I wondered how hard that would have been to install them from under the fender and in what reality that would seem to make sense. I have never seen that done before.   

 That is all I can say for now. Not teasing on purpose. I was sworn to secrecy.No doubt it will come out shortly. I had to say this much because I know there were others that were sick by the thought of it leaving the country like I was.