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Messages - pbf777

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.................... you have to run the wetter with it so you don't deal with corrosion.

     Note that although the Water Wetter product does aid in resisting corrosion, it dos not perform this task as well as the other more commonly recommended by the O.E.M.s coolants, and particularly in the bimetal engines (example: cast iron block w/ aluminum cylinder heads & intake) where we have witnessed greatly accelerated oxidation erosion effects for those not utilizing coolants.         ;)



Without anything there in place of the t-stat, the liquid will run to fast through the radiator and not have time to cool.

     Not to start a stir, but although often stated, this is not correct.          :o

     Although a period of time is required for the transfer of heat from the coolant flow volume to the inner surfaces of the heat exchanger, there is more than ample time for this in most automotive executions with or without the thermostat restriction.  Remember, if you slow the coolant down in the radiator, you've also slowed it down in the engine, therefore since the engine is in a constant heat production state then the offset to the theory of the water experiencing a greater temperature reduction upon leaving the radiator is that the water is going to have a greater heat gain upon entering the radiator, with the reverse with the coolant moving faster, within reason of course.

     The function we are referring to here actually is the "restriction" being at the discharge from the engine makes the plumbing from this point back to the discharge side of the impeller the "hi-pressure side of the system, of variable pressure in excess of the cooling systems general "pressure rating" accepted as the pressure rating of the pressure cap which is the low pressure side of the system.  Since the orifice restriction area remains relatively constant (particularly with simple restrictor) but the flow rate is variable, increasing with engine speed (R.P.M.) the intended result is an increased pressure sum with the increase of load/work done, as there is greater heat production, this increased pressure further resists the potential of localized boiling or hot spots particularly prevalent within the cylinder heads, simply by raising the coolants' boiling point.              ;)

      Now I've started trouble!          ::)


Concours Talk / Re: 289 Hi-Po timing chain
« on: July 09, 2020, 02:04:12 PM »
     Using Dan Case's numbers, I ordered a complete set from Summit, and the individual part numbers from Rock Auto.    Summit's came in a Cloyes box, R/A's in a Melling box.
  The part numbers cast into the gears - crank and cam- were the same.  And, neither crank gear is for a 289 HiPo with the front counterweight.

     Not to flog a dead horse, but rather to aid others down-the-road, but when supplying "Dan's numbers" to the two mail order/internet sales giants, what did you get?          ???

     Apparently not those numbers, as I stated previously the Cloyes numbers S350 & S351's are and have been for some time obsolete (and I contacted Cloyes today just to be sure they had not been re-instituted) , but again as I stated previously you can still get the chain as it fits other than the H.P. applications.

     And the same is true as far as Melling is concerned; I believe ( :-\) their numbers of these would have been S406 cam gear & S431 crank gear (both obsolete) with a S358 chain being still available.

     But I did realize that if one calls Summit (as I did!) and asks of the two N.A. Cloyes numbers, I was told first that they were "not available", buuuut, ............"we don't have them, but we can special order and drop-ship from the manufacturer", just give your credit card information!              ::)

     And at Rock Auto on line, one types in the numbers, and the screen pops up with a different number "placed in your basket" for check-out!  They apparently just substitute the next closest product that "might fit", and perhaps as in the case here you won't send it back (you paying the freight to return it of course)!               :o

     In either case you'd get most of your monetary investment returned (sooner or latter) but these corrupt marketing schemes also cheat the honest retailers, who particularly when knowledgeable enough to advise one that the correct item is "not available", are then not rewarded with the sale of what might be the "as close as it gets sale", with the insight of possibly:

So, I had a very famous (in the Northwest Indiana area) machine shop take 0.150 off of the inward side of the crank gear.  AND, you also have to accurately drill a hole of 0.125 in it for the locator/drive pin.  This is a hardened gear.  You are not going to drill it with that harbor freight drill bit.
  So, every thing fits and is in alignment.

   Trust me , you DO NOT want a chain with less play. The "slop" you note has literally no effect on performance BUT too tight of a chain WILL take out the front cam bearing and #1 main bearing.

     +1!           ;)



1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: Oil dipstick sealing
« on: June 30, 2020, 05:38:27 PM »
'68 Shelby's with their A/C, auto trans, tilt/pop, power brakes and lousy closed crank ventilation system leak vacuum all over.

Remember, the design of the PCV is that it is CLOSED at idLE, FULLY. That isn't reality though.

     Realize that the "Closed Crankcase Ventilation" didn't really indicate that the crankcase was sealed; as in most American V8 configurations the valve cover opposite that incorporating the P.C.V. valve plumbing incorporated some sort of device for the purpose of acquiring atmosphere, either say from a filtered breather cap or perhaps a hose routing from the valve cover to the air cleaner to acquire filtered air, this design also to perhaps enclose fume post shut down.  This meant that the P.C.V. system was not truly going to acquire a vacuum on the crankcase but rather draft a metered sum of atmosphere thru the crankcase and subsequently draw perhaps the bulk, at least within its' capacity, of the by-products of the combustion process leaked into the crankcase volume then thru the inlet system to be processed thru combustion.  And with this understanding is where the confusion concerning your dip-stick experience as the P.C.V. system flow volume, or controlled vacuum leak is metered at the P.C.V. valve, not the high pressure crankcase inlet side.           ???

      As far as the P.C.V. valve being "closed" at idle, this is not correct in my experience although metered, nor do I believe intended, as keep in mind it is manifold vacuum operation vs a spring function, although there have been many configurations of ventilation systems created since its' inception, but generally in period if one pulled the valve from the cover and blocked the observed vacuum leak, the engines' idle R.P.M.s reduced by say fifty or so, and when deleted an adjustment of the carburetor throttle stop was generally required.  For example, I from the carburetor tuning aspect find that the tip-in off-idle throttle response can generally be improved upon without the unmetered by the carburetor volume causing a numbing effect to the carburetors' fuel delivery response.  But we generally attempt to incorporate a P.C.V. system into our E.F.I. engine installations as they are indifferent to its' presents  unlike the carburetor and it "cleans-up" the fuming tendencies when the vehicle is stationary at idle, for example at traffic lights and creates more of what the consumer expects in a more modern installation today.            ;)



1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: Edelbrock 1724 fuel pump for FE
« on: June 30, 2020, 04:05:22 PM »
............... as the Mallory pump does not like being installed above the fuel tank outlet. Mallory Technical Services flat out said that it must be installed below the fuel outlet. SW 240-A spec indicates that their pump will draw 48", so installing approximately 12" above the outlet in a R-Model is not an issue.

     Keep in mind that although your observation of the S.W. pump may be accurate, most all pumps (including this one), although some more than others, will provide a reduction in the delivery capabilities when having to lift the fuel from the reservoir; therefore it is always best if permitted to position the pump as low in the relationship to the fuel level presented as is reasonably possible.         ;)


Up For Auction / Re: How to be cool with one purchase
« on: June 30, 2020, 12:00:23 PM »
Definetly needs a cammer

     Yep, definitely!         

     But looking at that chassis, no wonder there were complaints of the handling behavior!         :o


1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: Edelbrock 1724 fuel pump for FE
« on: June 30, 2020, 11:29:38 AM »
It seems that metal tubing doesn't like 90 bends even if nice and smooth with a tubing bender method.

The 90 degree bends foster vapor lock, even cold. Strange but apparently true.

Truth is stranger then fiction.

     Actually, although I question if the fluid medium at its' mechanically induced pressure makes this relevant, but yes, as in the process of blending the steel tube a loss in the cross sectional area within the tube is induced, this causing an increased velocity of the fluid in this area and this increased fluid velocity causes a reduction in the pressure particularly at the inside or short-turn of this radius; although being on the high pressure side of the system and with appropriate inside diameter tubing, with a proper execution of bending, the velocity differential should not be that great............normally.        :)


1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR / Re: Oil dipstick sealing
« on: June 30, 2020, 11:02:06 AM »
The dipstick tube seems to account for about a loss of 2 inches of vacuum at idle if open.

The other big loss of vacuum at idle is the PCV. It leaks something like 4 inches at idle

    Are you saying that these observations are individual of one another?  If with the PVC valve intention disabled and you still have the stated effect, I would believe you need to fix the vacuum leak, perhaps intake manifold to cylinder head gasket.         ???



,,,,,,,,,, but for a pure race car such as Bob Johnson’s Cobra I can understand the paper thin gasket such as the photo Dan Case posted. The race car would be running flat out for 1 1/2-2 1/2 hours or however long the event would be. The car wouldn’t sit long enough typically (except for an unusually long pit stop for some reason) ambient temperature fuel would be constantly running through the carburetors.

~Earl J

      Actually, under any reasonable load to W.O.T. one would find that the carburetor(s) and intake manifold port runner castings will be found to be significantly cooler than the surrounding ambient air temperature as the combination of throttling, this creating the effect of expansion and reduction of density of the incoming atmosphere, and, this coupled to the vaporization process involved of the atomized fuel particles/droplets emanating from the carburetor(s) within this air stream these both creating a significant cooling effect.             ;)

      Where's that airplane engine guy, John, he for sure understands about carburetor freezing/icing !         8)

      And with the above understood, and one look at the not so substantial  pair of ears of the intake to support the Weber's, then one is led to believe the original intention was to have a thin sealing gasket, not to permit the use of a thick pliable filler here, which even with instruction would inevitably be over torqued causing distortion to the ears, and failures in sealing or even casting breaks.  That is if one is going to attribute any foresight capacity to the designers anyway?           :-\


The Lounge / Re: Trans Am Intake Port Sizes
« on: June 18, 2020, 12:11:53 PM »
    I haven't seen a C6OA or SK version with an SAI engine number on it. I certainly haven't seen them all.

     One of the intakes we have here is #17, it has the "FIRING ORDER" but no other casting identifier; and I have looked closely, and am not able to establish that such may have been removed.      :)


SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: Random car pictures
« on: June 08, 2020, 07:14:30 PM »
     A true "RED-NECK" Mustang!  Now the only way to be even more "COUNTRY" is if the trunk is full of beers ("Long-Necks" preferably) on ice, that is with no coolers, just the beer packed in ice dumped in the trunk!  More capacity that way, ya-no!         ::)


SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: mountin old original hard tires
« on: June 06, 2020, 08:54:08 PM »
Notrogen filling works well if that's an issue.  :)

    That would probably solve the oxidation issue, but the air pressure may also invade within the tire ply's and cause separation, bulging and perhaps a POP!         :o


SAAC Forum Discussion Area / Re: mountin old original hard tires
« on: June 06, 2020, 12:45:07 PM »
+1. Also Maybe also using tubes inside would help hold air.

     When using old tire mountings, mostly for display purposes of course, use tubes not only to offset simply leak-down but also as a preservation purpose, this reducing the instance of the seepage air pressure (and moisture) alone causing separation with in the tire's construction.          ;)


Up For Auction / Re: 1969 Boss 429 on BaT
« on: June 05, 2020, 01:18:51 PM »
The motor had to be hurt for the seller to never try to start it.  I'm not well versed in B9's but have been told there are few people that know how to restore them properly which equates to $$$$. 

     I would probably suspect the current owner was aware of an issue with the engine, probably when he purchased it, otherwise it would have seemed foolish not to at least have the car in a state to at least be able to state that it runs, even if poorly as otherwise the negative impression is left to the imagination, usually resulting in a hit in the selling value or biding (although it didn't seem to hurt the bidding here). 

     As I have stated previously, in the '70's BOSS 429's were readily had relatively inexpensively but with damaged or no engines.  Wish I had known then, what I know now!          ::)

     And speaking of knowing, we are very familiar with these engines (along with others) and their not that intimidating, but I suppose I have witnessed some pretty dumb efforts by others on what seemed common knowledge (my personal favorite is when the chevy guys are building a Ford and try to put the thrust main on the number five saddle and can't figure out why the crank won't turn!).           :o

     And, don't get me started on who in a proper restoration costs' reaps the greatest profits, it sure ain't the engine guys ; and yet, isn't that what a BOSS 429 is all about?           ???


1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Exhaust system detail
« on: June 04, 2020, 05:28:01 PM »
Whether or not the ends were square cut or angle cut ,early late thing etc. is another loaded question/subject.

     For consideration for those who might care:  one of the useful values of the tail pipe section, that is after the muffler within the direction of the exhausts' intended major flow direction, other than just to route the exhaust fume from under the chassis is to provide a scavenging effect upon the muffler improving flow efficiency within.  This being accomplished due to the reflection or reversion value acquired at the pipes' presentation to atmosphere, this being most effective with the pipe terminating squarely, cutting the pipe at an angle tends to dampen this effect.                ;)

     O.K., I know.............who cares?                  :-[


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