SAAC Forum

Quote from: RSOHC on March 09, 2021, 03:42:02 PM
I tried turning the priming tool by hand.  It is very easy to turn clockwise.

     Because your turning the pump backwards and not making any pressure!       

 

QuoteIt is more difficult but possible to turn counter clock wise.  When removing my hand from  the tool, the tool rotates by itself back in the clockwise direction about 20 degrees.

     Both would be a consistent result in making pressure which counters with resistance!     

QuoteFrom this, I would say that the tool is connected to the pump.

     I'm not there making the observation, but I would tend to agree.   

QuoteMy priming tool is a modified FE distributor with the cam gear removed and a socket welded to the top so it can be turned by a drill  or an air ratchet.

     Again, I recommend against using a power instrument, use a "speed-handle" to have a little more "feel" for what our doing.

     Scott.   

     And a badly worn out pushrod guide slot!     

     Scott.

Quote from: RSOHC on March 08, 2021, 02:05:28 PM
I need some clarification on the clearance between my oil pan and oil pickup being is 0.75 inches.  This is greater than 1/4 to 3/8 inch. 
What is done done during engine building to change this measurement into spec and do I need to remove the pan to make this adjustment?

     In testing we have done, setting the typical P.U. at less than say, 1/2" begins to effect the feed possibilities to the pump, and the only reason for concern for greater clearance distances is whether the P.U. tube entrance would become uncovered above the oil level in the sump, this either due to high G-forces under acceleration, deceleration, turning or perhaps just pumping the pan dry, for what ever reason these would be somewhat extreme instances for the typical uses applied to these "classic" types of cars.   

     Scott.

      Obviously, any time a scenario of a typical mechanical pump which would be "dry", that is without a fluid medium providing for the sealing of clearances of the mechanical components this aiding in accomplishing the pressure differential across the pump attempting to create the pressure reduction in order to draw, in this example oil, the capability will be greatly reduced and can lead to a failure to "prime" and an inability to pump. 

      And this I feel confident in this case of the FE engine (although not uncommon with others) is one reason the engineers placed the oil pump in the pan's sump, generally submerged in the fluid medium, and this permitting a shorter distance in the requirement of the P.U. tube both in length and vertical depth differential from the pump inlet this aiding in reducing the suction pressure requirement by the pump, and generally given a time element, the flooding of the pump even before any attempt at truly pumping anything as the fluid seeks its' own level throughout as there general presents no great resistance to the escape of the air upward and outward into the crankcase, or even the fact that the pump is not a sealed unit its' self.  But yes, the head pressure is not great from this alone so at times one is going to realize that entrapped air, which I would consider most likely in the case of the FE, that which fails to pass completely thru the filter assembly, as if attached "empty", then this presents a rather large volume to displace, and the "anti-drain-back" valving intention within is probably the greatest culprit in the difficulty this perhaps with an oil sum standing vertically higher with gravity providing sealing pressure.  Note that filling the new to be installed oil filter with at least "some" oil is in my opinion always a good practice, but it is located after the pump, so this is not proving any kind of priming value to the pump, at least in this (FE) installation where the filter is mounted vertically, canister down, therefor oil is not going to drain from this created reservoir volume back into the pump, and the instructional statements made in the TSB from Hastings would be somewhat universal in nature.

     Scott.

Quote from: RSOHC on March 07, 2021, 01:46:47 PM
Is there an easier way of getting the oil pump primed than to go through the process of removing the oil pan since the engine is in the car?   

      If........ you assembled the pump dry, and for some reason          if filling the oil pan to the appropriate capacity the pump fails to flood upon an engine priming effort         and  you needed to prime the pump, one can remove the oil filter adapter on the side of the block (FE) and squirt some oil in the lower-rear most of the two oil gallery holes visible.  Fill the pathway, then turn the pump (by hand please!) clockwise or backwards a turn or two, and then fill the gallery again, reassemble adapter to block (four bolts and a gasket), now rotate in a counterclockwise direction (by hand, please!), myself preferring a "speed-handle", and shortly you should feel the turning resistance increase notably as pressure is had, don't care what the gauge says!     

      Scott.

     Counter-clockwise.   

     Scott.

Quote from: 68krrrr on March 04, 2021, 09:16:01 PM
Some more side pipes and bellbottoms, what color is that green I kinda like it

      So,......... I guess one won't get far on an argument on whether the side-pipes were originally installed by S.A.I., but, should we open a discussion on the possible originality to the "LeMans" stripes?     

      Scott.

Quote from: Harris Speedster on March 01, 2021, 09:55:37 AM
! question, did the C4 H heads have machined CChambers like a 427 M/R engine.?

     As I recall, cast surface, not machined.     

     Scott.

Quote from: fasthawkracing on February 26, 2021, 02:47:06 PM
will have a fuel pump on/off switch in the interior mounted along with starter button
Any more info that can be shared is great

     Granted, that in the day I wasn't so safety conscience, but it would be best if the switch was either of three-way operation, effectively providing a direct circuit for priming with engine not running, and once the engine were running then the switch would be positioned to operate a circuit in line with say an oil pressure switch to operation power relay, this for in case of an accident which with the loss of the oil pressure from the non-operating (stalled) engine would perhaps keep from pumping additional fuel to the fire!     

     Or other provision of which there are several to kill the pump in a severe incident.     

     Scott.

     As of the old originals, if others' are anything like those that we've piled up here for several decades, and at this point in time they're a little crispy, somewhat brittle and lacking the pliability originally intended to provide proper sealing; I wouldn't advise their use unless one is just determined to have "original stuff" because it very likely may prove to be "bad stuff"!     

     My suggestion as far as for the intake gaskets would be to purchase the Mr Gasket Co. grey composite gaskets, profile the perimeter, apply coloration and markings as deemed required to match or simulate the originals, and be more confident of a successful installation, even if it isn't absolutely "original" in origin.     

     Sorry, I'm just a function first guy, perfection in appearance is important, but just not before proper function.  Remember, of the two women at the bar, the "10" just might not be the best one to take home!     
 
     Scott.   

Quote from: gt350hr on February 15, 2021, 05:03:28 PM
   Agreed Scott and "sometimes" NOT machining the sides of the manifold "raises" the ports to the heads.

     There have been a few instances where I wanted to relocate the intake manifolds' inlet port center-line in relation to the cylinder head and in doing so I have either manufactured spacer plates mechanically fastened to the intake or cylinder head face, or weld built-up the intakes' faces with the required material, porting and surfacing.       

     Scott.

Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 14, 2021, 04:11:23 PM

During rebuilding it is not uncommon for heads and blocks to be resurfaced. The resurfacing of one or the other or both complicates the fitment of a gasket on the front or back of the intake each time. That is why it is more of a issue now then back when the engines were first put together.

Quote from: shelbydoug on February 15, 2021, 10:03:28 AM

Quote from: TLea on February 14, 2021, 06:07:48 PM
The reason cork gaskets can be problematic is during engine rebuilds the block decks and heads get milled which draws intake mating surfaces away from intake and manifold can't go down far enough with fixed cork gaskets. Skilled engine builders will machine bottom of intake to compensate. On a FE this will allow valve cover to seal better because top of intake and head will be flush

That is certainly true but ......................

     Not to be at odds with anyone, but this is not correct     

     The intake face of the cylinder head is machined at 90° to the deck surface, and each of these cylinder head intake mounting surfaces are 90° to one another, therefore the overall intake meeting surfaces do not change in distance from one another with the proper machining of the cylinder head or block decking surfaces.     

     Now, an effect of the cylinder head intake faces siding downward in alignment under the intake manifold, but still in the same plane of parallelism and distance, will be witnessed as either of the decks are surfaced.  If in order to correct this to some degree, one then machines or surfaces the intake manifold faces so as to cause it to "sink" in its' relationship to the cylinder head faces this correcting for better inlet port and bolt hole alignment (except in the S.B.F. as the bolt holes for the intake manifold retention are vertical & note that those with bolt holes at divergent angles may not recover simultaneously with other alignment concerns), and this does change the position of the intake manifold in its' relationship to the cylinder block "china-wall".     

     And before someone chooses to blast me out of the water, think-about-it!     

     Scott.   

Quote from: shelbydoug on February 09, 2021, 07:10:48 AM
I'm using the Eagle crank and H-beam rods as well. What I am amazed about is when you look at how tight the caps fit, when assembled, the joining line literally disappears.

I personally would recommend them. They are almost too beautiful to cover up inside of the engine and really should be on display somewhere.

     Although given they do appear nicely executed, not the most beautiful ever, but particularly compared to the high production O.E. pieces, but due be sure to have a competent machine shop check them for straight, and for proper sizing of the both the small & big ends before putting into service as we rarely find them suitable for use as received!     

     And the same advise for the crankshafts, as I often warn potential purchasers that when buying this stuff, and considering the cost savings don't forget to add in the cost for resizing the rods' big ends, pin-fitting the bushings and the cranks may be 10/10 before their first use!     

     Scott.

Quote from: 2112 on February 07, 2021, 02:01:52 PM
Are you saying some Scat products are forged in the USA?

     Nope!

     If for a Ford Small-Block application a current add states:  "4340 FORGED STEEL" , then you can pretty much take it to the bank that it's of CHINESE origin!       

     But if one coughs up enough money for a BILLET STEEL piece then it might be available from the U.S.A., and either is available from SCAT.     

Quote from: shelbydoug on February 08, 2021, 09:35:25 AM
Yes but I remember when Japanese products were just called crap here too. That was my point?
I guess you aren't old enough to remember that.

    Yes, I'm old enough, and although they did make some good stuff, due to their market penetration motus-operandi of that period much of their product did suffer.  Example: a 1969/70 Honda CB750 was a great bike, but the Honda N600 motor car of the same period, not so much (and believe me I know of each personally!      )!

Quote
Nothing like racism to decide on where you buy from right?

     And yes, on the surface, if prefaced to be reactionary in such a way one could perceive such, but, I think this just shows the effectiveness of this current proliferation in this society of racism phobia.   But if one considers that the topic was concerning material products not a group of people and that the word Chinese is only being used to differentiate, obviously in a broad stroke, one product from another, I think the leap to racism is truly introducing a new unrelated subject, and this needs to stop in our society.     

     And of course: "if  the shoe fits wear it"!       

     Scott.

Quote from: shelbydoug on February 06, 2021, 01:24:19 PM
Eagle is from Mississippi not Chung King.

   
     Yeah, Mississippi might be the address on the shipping box, but that ain't where it's made!     

     Scott.