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Messages - SFM5S000

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136
Appeals / Re: Separating quick steering arm from center link question
« on: April 21, 2021, 03:32:05 PM »
Well, after running my errands looking for a tool that would work I ended up buying the one that 67350#1242 and Royce Peterson recommended. I have a couple other pullers similar to JD’s but the jaws just don’t seem to get a good enough grip under the arm. I did contemplate heating the area around the arm the threaded pin, but first wrapping the seal with aluminum foil to protect the rubber, then to expand the metal.

I’ll let you know what avenue I took. Thanks for the suggestions

Cheers,
~Earl J


137
Appeals / Separating quick steering arm from center link question
« on: April 21, 2021, 08:49:10 AM »
Okay,
I’d typically have the shop do suspension/steering work, but because I’m not presently home in California and the car is in New York I decided to do a number of projects like replace the steering box with the correct HCC AX that Jim Cowles (RIP) rebuilt for me.

So, I’ve since pulled the engine/trans etc and I’m now to the point of separating the steering arm from the center link. If I used a pickle fork (ball joint separator) I’ll ruin the rubber seal. Are there replacement seals? I’ve screwed on a nut onto the threads and attempted to hit it with a hammer and not damage the threads. Maybe I’m not hitting it hard enough?
Any suggestions?

Thanks,
~Earl J


138
Replicas and Tribute / Re: Long racing lug nuts
« on: April 13, 2021, 10:39:34 AM »
Hi - I am looking for a source for the long, open ended racing lug nuts. My car did come with a set, the shouldered seat type with washers.
But - for a different set of wheels I need tapered ones.
Cobra Automotive does sell them, I know - are there any other sources ?

Thanks !

Ralf

Hello Ralf,

I too have two sets of wheels. The set I regularly run are the 15x8 PS Engineering TA wheels (w 4 3/8” back spacing) that take the long shouldered nuts with washers. (See pic)
My second set of wheels are 15x8 American Racing (w/4 1/2 back spacing) that require a tapered nut. They are open ended so the longer stud sticks out. These wheels I had Goodyear Blue streaks that have since worn out and I’ve discarded, BUT i found a set of tapered nuts but they are about an inch shorter. (See pic) one nut is sitting in the bare rim, which doesn’t bother me as they work. I found these at a Good Guys car show/swap meet. These can also be found on eBay as well. They are hardened and in-expensive (cheap, I think I paid $1.25 each). This would be your Plan B.

Cheers,
~Earl J


139
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 65 horn toggle switch
« on: April 08, 2021, 03:38:15 PM »
no variations during production,  only plastic tread on original GT350 .

+1 Black plastic threaded was the only type/one used during the entire 65 GT350 run. Period!

Cheers,
~Earl J

140
More pics,
Note 3rd pic, inside of trunk, tail light panel cutouts? Are these cuts correct?
My thinking is someone was/had built a clone.
I’m also thinking this car was stolen.

~E

141
So, to get back on topic, has the O.P. given the VIN yet?

Hello Dan, Earl here (former VP NorCal a few years back, SAAC35) long time no see. Anyway I’m the O.P.

Well, first and foremost. This car is Very Bad News. I went and saw the car yesterday. The owner had cleared the area around the car somewhat. Upon inspection with some guidance from CoralSnake, I went looking for VINs. Unfortunately ALL the numbers have been either removed or cut out! I checked both inner fender locations. Both were cut out. I even unbolted the passenger fender. Big rectangle section removed from each inner fender.  I scraped the primer off the lower corners of the windshield. No number plate, no stamped numbers. Nothing. I checked both sides. Zippo.
Buck tags? Not a chance, as with the door tags. All gone.

I was floored. I’ve never seen that and thought, what a shame...waste of car.

I spoke with the owner. This will be a DMV nightmare if not get confiscated by the police if he attempts to somehow register it.
As bizarre as it is, there were even patch metal pieces to be welded in (see pic) what would that have done? Other than fill the holes. The only thing that he can do with the car (as far as I was concerned) was turn it into a pure track or race car. I told him he was going to have a tough time selling it real Shelby Mustang or Not.

My gut on the car is that it’s not a real one as the “fiberglass Shelby pieces” back sides were fiberglass “chop” indicating reproduction pieces put on a fastback Mustang. But it did have a stock appearing 9” rear and dual exhaust hangers. Rear fenders had small flairs.

All in all, that ended my interest in this car. I wouldn’t touch this one with a 10 foot pole.
So now you all know.

Cheers,
~Earl J

142
Hey guys, on the third pic (here it is again) notice the 4 little holes on the passenger side dash board. Would that have been for the mounting of the dash Snake GT350/500 logo emblem? I’m a bit anxious to see this car again.
Are reproduction emblems stick-on or do they have mounting studs?
Cheers,
~Earl J


143
I have questions, no motor...


144
First off, I don’t care for the term “Barn Find” it’s so over used. Anyway being and staying in our Northern NY home due to COVID I’ve been skiing quite a bit. One of my retired (75yo) skiing buddy/friends said his neighbor has a Shelby body he wants to get rid of, knowing I was into these things. I asked what year. He didn’t know. He had his neighbor call me. It turns out someone who owed him money gave him the car. He himself didn’t know what year it was thinking maybe 67-69? He’s not a car guy. Just told it was a Shelby. Came out of the persons garage that owed money into his garage/barn sat in his garage for 10+ years. Getting his property ready to sell so he can move to Florida. He wants this gone.

My friend Jerry and I stopped by his garage to take a quick look last week Thursday on our way back from Gore Mountain. The neighbor wasn’t home but we looked anyway. I’m not a 68 guy. This is more a Pete Disher, Bob Gaines, Special Ed or shelbydoug expertise. I took a few pics in the short time I was there. There was too much stuff on the car to look for a VIN stamping under the hood. But the body pieces were definitely 68.
I’m heading there tomorrow to uncover it or at least look under the hood. There is no motor, trans, interior is disassembled (mess). I was told it rolls.
Here’s my question. If there is no tag, are the inner fenders stamped like the 65/66 cars? I have the current registries to the early cars but not the later 68-70 cars. What will I see or look for on a 68?

I asked the owner over the phone when we spoke last week if there was a tag on the driver side inner fender. He said there was but the previous owner sold it. (?!!!) I thought how is that possible?

This county of New York are predominantly farmers, dairy farmers and Amish.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Cheers,
~Earl J



145
1967 Shelby GT350/500 / Re: C5AF Distributor rebuild or upgrade?
« on: March 29, 2021, 08:11:55 AM »
The ignitor is interesting, because from the outside its not visible, are there really no benefits, hp gains with the ignitor?

The benefits of the Pertronix is that it’s maintenance free. Where as the stock points and spark quality ever so slowly deteriorates due to wear on the point blocks and arc buildup at the contacts especially when spinning the engine in the upper rpm range continually. This is not an issue if one keeps the points properly adjusted. Aka: maintenance

As Doug had mentioned. It’s difficult to hide a Pertronix unit if one participates in concourse show events due to the two wires coming out of the distributor body. It just boils down to what is your priority. I so happen to prefer the maintenance free aspect. I wrapped the two wires with fusing tape. I also found a distributor cap that fits the OEM HiPo distributor with HEI male ends, but that’s me.

Cheers,
~Earl J


146
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: R Model Heads, Cam and Intake
« on: March 10, 2021, 09:22:00 PM »
Then they must work well on those stroked Dart blocks.  However, won't work on Fords new Boss block.  Go figure!

I know I’m replying to a post a little ways back, but I run said modern M-6010-Boss 302 block with R model HP 289 heads. And because the block requires .500” fasteners. I had all the head bolt holes enlarged to .530” to accommodate .500” ARP studs with 12 point nuts and washers.
I see what you mean by the water passages. I run the Felpro 1021 head gaskets with no additional sealer, studs torqued to 110lbs. No leaks...

Cheers,
~Earl J


147
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: Rear quarter radio antennas on 65s
« on: February 08, 2021, 09:34:34 PM »
Photo of 6S266 with rear antenna from 65 GT350 website...



Are you sure that photo is of 6S266? All details in the photo are that of a 1965 GT350 and not a 1966 model.

Cheers,
~Earl J

148
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: R Model Heads, Cam and Intake
« on: February 05, 2021, 06:42:01 PM »
Hi Paul,
As I mentioned these heads are on the car. Randy Gillis had a custom set with a -17cc “dished” pistons netting a hair over 10:1 CR (compression ratio) I went with them. A flat top piston with just eye brows would have pushed the CR over 11:1 - 11.5:1 somewhere in that vicinity.
A little too much to run on today’s pump gas. I’m good with the performance for what it is for the most part, but every now and then do I wish it were higher? And deal with needing a better grade of fuel? eh? Sometimes
As mentioned before, just about ANY of today’s aftermarket aluminum heads will out perform these. Again, it’s okay by me. (You know my car).
Cheers
~Earl J

149
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: 65 GT350 barn find
« on: February 04, 2021, 09:27:05 PM »
If it is a real one, it’s a later 300’s+ serial number or after the cars with steering wheels with holes, as it has the later screw door Handles and slotted 15” steering wheel. Might want to check the registry for “where abouts unknown” cars. As a start. Nice find, whom ever found it. Barn finds still do exist. Imagine that!

Cheers,
~ Earl J

150
1965 GT350/R-Model / Re: R Model Heads, Cam and Intake
« on: February 03, 2021, 02:04:19 PM »
Here’s a sample of the welded “banana ports”  also note the milling of the head surface essentially took away or removed the “thumb pads” indicating how much of the head surface was removed. In this case these chambers cc measure 47cc’s as noted by the “47” stamped on the end of the heads. As others have mentioned SAI had other vendors doing port work, though Valley Head and Mondello did the majority. These particle set were done by Louis Unser having the HU head stamp which Randy G help me identify. These heads I run on my car.

As for the “R” model manifold mods, in addition to the port matching this was another detail which was typically done. (See pic). I got this manifold from Jim Cowles RIP. Even though I still prefer my 48 IDA Weber’s.

And lastly, though not THE “R” Model cam but what it became; the C7FE aka LeMans Cam. Later rendition.

Noting Shelby Doug’s cam lift  question. As I recall. Longer duration with shorter lifts in or around .500+- profiles provided better scavenging and breathing at sustained higher RPM’s versus high lift short duration were better suited to drag applications. This is what I remember. I’m sure Randy will correct me, but again as I recall that was the mind set. Anyway...

Cheers,
~Earl J


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