SAAC Forum

Thanks for everyone's input on this reproduction piece and picture posted of an original for comparison!

I bought this Autolite voltage regulator and it is out of my experience verifying it is a genuine Autolite NOS Service replacement versus reproduction.

-Black painted lid is metal

-2AD date code has me thrown unless its 1972, would that be correct for the red Autolite box pictured with 1966 date?

Are screws for lid correct for a 65/66/67?

Pictures attached.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/HI-PO-289-K-Main-Caps/143109125546

Title: "HI PO 289 K Main Caps"
Description: "For sale are five original 289 HiPo main caps. When installed on a stock 'plain-Jane' 289 these make a HiPo. There is NO difference between A, C or K blocks OTHER than these caps. Installation will require align bore/honing by a competent machine shop. Offered at no reserve. Buyer to pay shipping, $16 USPS flat rate, or local pick up ok. Cash or pay pal only. Good luck bidding."

Heads up, there is some funny business going on here. 5th cap pictured is a C2OE-B instead of correct C3OE-A

This one...

Quote from: mtdubvee on December 29, 2018, 10:47:17 AM
In the end it doesn't bother me because I know I sell quality and legit cars.

Thanks

I recall you were selling a "K-code" convertible in the past you bought from N.C. Pookie that had the same consecutive unit number as a T-code according to INSTAVIN.COM... Care to explain how that was legit?

64 1965 Mustang??? 

"64 1965 Mustang 1966 1967 Ford Falcon Fairlane Galaxie ORIG 260 289 AIR CLEANER"
https://www.ebay.com/itm/64-1965-Mustang-1966-1967-Ford-Falcon-Fairlane-Galaxie-ORIG-260-289-AIR-CLEANER/153306609837

This is as bad as it gets:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Ford-289-Hipo-Block-/123402025193

My first question would be does the seller have the original factory data-plate for this convertible?

Did Windsor produce 289 high performance blocks? My understanding is they were Cleveland only.

https://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/d/289-hipo-block/6711629734.html

copy:
"1966 Ford Mustang 289 HiPo Engine Block

Casting: C6AE-6015-E
Casting Date: 6G7 (1966 July 7th)
This engine block was not stamped with a vin number.
Main Caps: hipo caps
Cylinders: bored 30 over
Work Completed: baked, jet washed, magnafluxed for cracks (no cracks), align honed, cross hatched. Machined surfaces coated with assembly Lube and grease."

Was the transmission crossmember and E-brake bar painted black from factory?

FWIW, my C5 hex (no thread) assembly line original does not have the vertical "XXXXX" markings like the AC I recently saw for sale.

That is good news. Thanks for input!

I presently have a C4AW-C differential case (large bearing, single rib) built with solid spacer (instead of crush sleeve), 31 spline Eaton Truetrac, and 3:25 Ford gears. I'm running 205/70-14 street tires. Street driven, not drag raced.

I realize the 3:25 gearing ads to driveline stress.

Generally speaking what crankshaft torque and horsepower will the C4AW-C large bearing, single rib case support?

Generally speaking what crankshaft torque and horsepower will a 4-speed toploader support? (28 spline / Wide ratio)

I'm asking the above because I'm putting out 362+ Clb-ft @4,200 and 360+ Hp @ 6,200. Those figures were before having my carb. fully tuned. I'm finding out today I exceeded the clamping force of my clutch rated at 400HP (manufacturer will NOT give me a torque rating) and it got me thinking what driveline upgrades should I consider so I don't have additional failures...

Thanks for help.

Since when do NOS carburetor spacers look used with black paint on them???

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1965-1966-1967-mustang-shelby-NOS-carburetor-spacer-289-hipo-fomoco-original/232714680599

Quote from: TLea on April 06, 2018, 02:41:47 PM
dated 4K or 4L  open to any condition  restore@TimLea.com

I see two 4K20 date codes on this list for sale:

http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15588.0