Best SB plug wire

[69mach351w]

Ok, here's the latest.....

I went through and adjusted all the rocker arms. 

Installed all the following new:
-NGK plugs (gapped at .035").
-new Denso plug wires.
-Pertronix distributor kit.
-new distributor cap.
-new rotor button.
-New Motorcraft Electronic Voltage Regulator.

And had Drew Pojedinec here on the SAAC site to rebuild my carburetor.
I set the timing to 8* BTDC (Factory is 6*).

The motor runs great.  Responds Great when the accelerator is punched.

BUT.......

When I shift it into gear, the car stalls

What do I need to look for? I am no motor expert and any help is deeply appreciated.

Rich

[cj750]

What's your idle speed?

Did you set the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged?

Stock transmission and converter?

[69mach351w]

What's your idle speed?

Did you set the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged?

Stock transmission and converter?

Idle speed 800 RPM(Approx)
Yes, set timing with vac advance disconnected and plugged.
Yes, stock trans and converter.

I didn't have this trouble until I took the previous Holley 2V carb off of it and put it on '68 Mustang I have.  I bought the current 2V Holley carb off ebay and had Drew  Pojedinec here on the forum rebuild it for me. But the Mustang was doing this stalling before I sent the carb to Drew. 

I figured doing all the tranferring from original ignition to electronic ignition and all new items as listed above AND having the carb rebuilt would help with the stalling, but it didn't.

When I punch accelerator in Park, the motor responds Perfectly!! 
Just don't understand why it stalls when shifted into drive.

Any help or info deeply appreciated,
Rich

[cj750]

Quick thoughts:

I typically like to time my cars at 10-12 degrees. 8 should be okay, but it doesn't cost anything to try bumping it up a bit.
800 rpm idle sounds a little low, if that's with the car in park. Idle should normally be set with the transmission in "D."
Do you have a vacuum gauge? Manifold vacuum readings with the trans in park and in gear would be useful information.

[69mach351w]

Quick thoughts:

I typically like to time my cars at 10-12 degrees. 8 should be okay, but it doesn't cost anything to try bumping it up a bit.
800 rpm idle sounds a little low, if that's with the car in park. Idle should normally be set with the transmission in "D."
Do you have a vacuum gauge? Manifold vacuum readings with the trans in park and in gear would be useful information.

Now, if I set idle in Drive, then want it idle way too fast when I shift it to Park?

I don't have a vacuum gauge, but how can I check for a vacuum leak without one?

Let's see if others here will chime in.

As always, Thanks to all

[shelbydoug]

You can do a smoke test like done on a FI car to check for leaks. It does help.

[427heaven]

Lets continue with the back yard mechanics way of thinking, I learned 45 years ago you can spray carb cleaner or wd 40 around leaks and when the rpm s come up you are near the leak...

[69mach351w]

You can do a smoke test like done on a FI car to check for leaks. It does help.

So, you guys think I have a vacuum leak?

I don't really know how to do the smoke test, but I'm willing to try anything.

[69mach351w]

Lets continue with the back yard mechanics way of thinking, I learned 45 years ago you can spray carb cleaner or wd 40 around leaks and when the rpm s come up you are near the leak...

I've see this type of leak test done.  Let me take a photo of the vacuum line from the carb to the distributor and other areas near the carb.

Like I said, this didn't do this stalling with the first 2V Holley I had mounted.  So, I'm thinking maybe the carb somewhere is leaking?  Like I mentioned, it stalled with this second 2V Holley I mounted even before Drew P. here on the forum rebuild it. 

Man, I hope I don't have a cracked "something" on the carb.

Any help appreciated.

[69mach351w]

I do have my original Autolite 2V carb from my 69 that I can mount If worse-comes-to- worse. I can mount it to see if it stalls, and if it does, I'll know it was the 2V Holley.

But, I'm going to do some tests first.

Thanks All

[427heaven]

Its probably at the base gasket surface area below your carb. It cant be crusty. lumpy, bumpy etc. Don't over think it . We will get you to the finish line here on your own power, or helping you across. Go get a can of WD 40 out of the garage and start gently spraying in areas of vacuum connections as well as the base of the carb you will find your problem there.

[69mach351w]

Fixing to get on it right now.

New gaskets between carb/spacer  and between spacer/intake.

I'll be in touch.

[427heaven]

Atta boy- Go get em tiger... Your going to be a top notch trouble shootin MEKANIK before this is over.

[69mach351w]

I done the WD40 and carb cleaner spray test after the motor got to operating temp.

With the WD40 didn't hear any change.  With the carb cleaner, on the LS of carb just for a fraction of a second, the motor glitched. Couldn't hardly notice it and tried again, didn't hear it.  So I let the carb cleaner dry and tried it again and barely noticed the small glitch again.   

I'm assuming the gasket isn't making a good contact.  They were new when installed, but I will replace both upper and lower and try again.

Thanks and I'll be in touch.

What brand and thickness of gaskets upper and lower do you recommend?

[427heaven]

Its not the thickness of the gasket that counts, its the cleanliness of the sealing surface that counts. You must scrape, clean, sand to a nice clean flat surface. Gaskets should fit the contour of the sealing surface correctly, accurately, they should be a mirror image of each other. If there is any GLITCH you are onto the problem. We had faith in you! Spray around intake to head surface you might find something there also.