Master cylinder

[hurlbird]

opened it up today and it is rusted and empty... I assumed the rear would be since im working on that section of the car. Looks really bad in the cylinder. So what are you guys doing in these cases to keep original? I assume this one is the original but I will need to confirm. Thanks once again! -John

[Royce Peterson]

If it is original it will look like this one -

https://www.deadnutson.com/1967-68-mustang-shelby-master-cylinder-with-cap/

If it is indeed the original one it can be rebuilt either by you or someone else.

opened it up today and it is rusted and empty... I assumed the rear would be since im working on that section of the car. Looks really bad in the cylinder. So what are you guys doing in these cases to keep original? I assume this one is the original but I will need to confirm. Thanks once again! -John

[hurlbird]

that's it except mine has a cadmium or bright silver cap the dead nuts appears to be black. suggestions on good rebuilders?

[J_Speegle]

opened it up today and it is rusted and empty... I assumed the rear would be since im working on that section of the car. Looks really bad in the cylinder. So what are you guys doing in these cases to keep original? I assume this one is the original but I will need to confirm. Thanks once again! -John

What year are you working on??

[hurlbird]

1968 and discovering sins of the past

[roddster]

  To keep original parts like Master cylinders, and wheel cylinders too, I send them out to be sleeved and rebuilt.  There are a few sources for this listed in Hemmings Motor News.

[JD]

that's it except mine has a cadmium or bright silver cap the dead nuts appears to be black. suggestions on good rebuilders?

The master cylinder, cap, bail and booster were panted black as an assembled unit - the plating of the cap doesn't show when in place. 

[hurlbird]

not sure what you mean JD. My cap is very visible and is a silver color with the sticker. Thanks

[JD]

Yes you can see the lid but - the master cylinder, cap, bail and booster were panted black as an assembled unit - all of those items were assembled as a complete group of parts and hung in the air spray painted semi-gloss black and installed in the car as a completed unit the cap would get a sticker to identify the fluid to be used - the plating is covered by paint.

Chevy's of the era have no paint on the lids, master and booster and you do see the color of the plating or raw casting of the master cylinder.

See examples, note these are images of a late '67's, the '68 were done similarly to my understanding.

The first is "correct" all items painted black, the second is incorrect note the un-painted cap/lid, it should be black and have a sticker on top of the black paint

[hurlbird]

so you are saying all of the black paint came off of my lid revealing the silver color the cap was before being painted? Thanks for all the info...

[J_Speegle]

so you are saying all of the black paint came off of my lid revealing the silver color the cap was before being painted? Thanks for all the info...

Or if your car has been restored or "freshened up" a bit someone overlooked the detail.  A very typical mistake and plenty of them (unpainted lids) out there on the internet in pictures to lead owners and shops astray

As for a rebuilder many have used and have suggested White Post. No personal use of them yet. Haven't needed it but here's a link

https://whitepost.com/brake-sleeving-rebuilding-services/

[hurlbird]

good to know and thanks for the reference......

[Bob Gaines]

so you are saying all of the black paint came off of my lid revealing the silver color the cap was before being painted? Thanks for all the info...

You may want to review this Master cylinder cap article to confirm if your cap is original type for your car or if has been replaced . http://anghelrestorations.com/uploads/3/1/7/6/3176630/master_cylinder_caps_1.5.pdf

[hurlbird]

Thanks.. looks like my cap is correct.

[cascade-classics]

I have had good luck with this company for rebuilding originals.

https://www.goldlinebrakes.com/