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Tilt away column repair

Started by Dan353, June 21, 2020, 09:39:40 AM

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Bob Gaines

Quote from: Coralsnake on June 25, 2020, 05:41:01 PM
Two straight edges across from each other on sides of bezel
That is what I typically see too.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

Corey Bowcutt

Excellent!  That is what is on my car.

430dragpack

Quote from: Krelboyne on June 25, 2020, 04:05:48 PM
Those are two different switches that get confused. The C7ZZ-13713-A switch has a longer plunger or button. This switch is mounted to the side of the tilt column on a 1967, not in the door jamb. Also has the squared edges on the metal ring.

I'm interested in knowing the length of the door jamb switch plunger, as well, on known original cars, because there is about a half dozen C7ZZ-A switches on eBay that have the short plunger, like the C6OZ-A switch. Even the C3AZ-B switch, which was replaced by the C7 switch appears to have a short plunger.

SChatman

My original has the black button with metal bezel on my 69 but the replacement from NPD  had two flat spots on the metal bezel, what's the right part number?

Smity

I'm looking for the entire swing away release mechanism and bracket that mounts under the dash for a 68 Shelby GT350.  Let me know if you have that for sale.  I have the same for a 69 that I could trade.

68blk500c

C6OZ-13713-A pictured.  Squared bezel is as factory 68-up in my experience.  Have seen factory switches that were not marked.  Service parts in both Autolite and Motorcraft.  Sometimes you open the box and it has a round bezel?  Maybe later service part or supplier variation?

I have one of the C7Z variety around here somewhere, but can't find it now.




fastmerc

Greetings!
I just had a couple of 67 columns in for rebuild last month and found two "Autolite" (ink stamps on side!) switches that came in a potpourri of wiring and bits......

Upon reassembling the column, I found that the short "flat top" switch likely fits the little adjustment bracket for the rod engagement better than the longer (newer oval top) switches.....   This is the "ignition cutout" switch that won't let you start the car unless the steering wheel is pulled to the down and locked position.

I always figured that the longer version went in the door jamb as the distance from the door to the jamb could change more during assembly processes........

I believe that you can now only get one version in repop form, that fits back to the early Mustang days.  Getting them to fit the "interlock" position on the column could prove a tad bit of a challenge.....might have to elongate the holes in the bracket ever so much, or move the tab on the activating rod a hair...

I also found "short" round tops in rear doors of 4-door Galaxies etc when equipped with rear door light switches.

I had a 67 column in my 68 car, and because I could.....I just didn't connect the column switch harness up...... That way, I could tilt the column "away" while the car was running, by just pushing on the little lever tab with my toe....carefully!  I could then jump in and out of the car easier.......to do whatever....or start the car with the wheel up....

Cheers!
Steve
PS: I'm the other tilt rebuilder!