Ah. Just the soul I was hoping to hear from? So I'm not the only one who has had o-ring issues on the inlet valves? Yes the needle and seat o ring.
Confused? Hang out with me some more then apply for an SS disability account?
I was looking around the shop for tubing on the thought of the sleeve but all I have is .049 stainless.
As near as I can tell, there is only a .002" difference for the o-ring to seat. A human hair is .004". The o-ring needs to be a perfect fit.
So the simple sane solution would be to use a larger o-ring? That makes sense but I just wanted to hit it with the 40# sledge like I do to seat the banjo bolt in the bowls?
I don't strip out all of the threads. Out of 7 1850 carbs that I have ONLY 3 are stripped and won't tighten up.
To look at them they are not missing threads or cross threaded. I think what must happening is that there is corrosion from the ethanol and it has essentially "acid dipped" the threads. On a crazy fine thread like that, that's a killer?
Normal bolt threads will have about a .007" difference with the nut. The good ARP versions cut that to .003". It makes quite a difference and you can feel it in your fingers hand tightening the nuts.
Don't forget that the fuel transfer tube hole cuts into those treads so that in reality you are only using at most 3/16 to 1/4" of those threads. That I think is the main culprit other then this mysterious erosion on thread material.
I swear I remember Heli-coil kits from HOLLEY for them about 1972?
I've found that lubricating the threads with air tool oil works with these crazy zinc alloys the carbs are made from.
Ssssh! Don't tell anyone ok? It'll be our secret?
So are you going to call it a Shelbydoug insert? SD for short.