Recommended engine oil 69 350

[SChatman]

What's the consensus for engine oil? My engine builder says Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing oil, I asked why and he says he's Just always used it. Also what about break in oil? The engine has a new cam and the valvoline jug says it's a High Zinc formula, the builder says it's fine but I have a knowledgeable friend that says break in oil is the way to go.
Any thoughts?

[Greg]

Break in oil is supposed to allow the rings to wear down the peaks on the cylinder wall in order to form a good seal. Regular motor oil is designed to prevent wear. 

Brad Penn or Joe Gibbs Driven break in oil is what I use SAE 30.  It has a high Zinc content and does a great job at break in.

[SChatman]

Thanks Greg

[Bigfoot]

VR1 20-50 for Big blocks
VR1 10-30 should be fine for small blocks.

[Greg]

Thanks Greg

You are very welcome.

[CSX 4133]

Another vote for Brad Penn break in and engine oil.

[69mach351w]

VR1 20W-50 here in my 69 Mach 351W.

Have been now since the motor was rebuilt in 2010.  I did opt for roller cam and lifters for better wear, but no high lift cam, which it still retains a factory type sound. I have put about 6000 miles on it since 2010 with no problems.

[SChatman]

Thanks everybody

[rhjanes]

Racing oils are a trade off (like everything is).  They typically don't have much detergent in them.  Racers change their oil a LOT!  But then we are probably not driving these classics as daily drivers with race oil in them either.  So sludge build up probably isn't much of a concern.

I use a standard, old dino juice 10W40 in both my 1969 302 and 1970 428 Mustangs.  Last change I got Castrol at my local Walmart. I also add some of the zinc treatments out there.  My local O'Reilly even carries the zinc now.  I probably don't have to even do that as I'm not pulling trailers or driving with high engine loads when these old cars parts were made to have zinc in the lubricants.

Any of today's oils are light years ahead of what was on the market when these old cars were built.

[69mach351w]

Racing oils are a trade off (like everything is).  They typically don't have much detergent in them.  Racers change their oil a LOT!  But then we are probably not driving these classics as daily drivers with race oil in them either.  So sludge build up probably isn't much of a concern.

I use a standard, old dino juice 10W40 in both my 1969 302 and 1970 428 Mustangs.  Last change I got Castrol at my local Walmart. I also add some of the zinc treatments out there. My local O'Reilly even carries the zinc now.  I probably don't have to even do that as I'm not pulling trailers or driving with high engine loads when these old cars parts were made to have zinc in the lubricants.

Any of today's oils are light years ahead of what was on the market when these old cars were built.

Ok, then what's the difference than just go ahead and buy the oil like VR1 that already has the zinc in the oil

[s2ms]

Been using VR-1 10W-30 for years in my 66. At each oil change I send a sample to Blackstone for analysis. The last 2 years the reports showed some element level changes, including lower zinc. I was suspicious this was due to a formulation change so this year I send a virgin sample in for VOA, suspicions were confirmed. The old formulation Zinc/Phosphorus levels were ~1400/1300ppm, new levels are ~1100/1000ppm. The new formulation also has an increase in anti-wear agents molybdenum and titanium (which previously=0).

Don't believe this means anything as far as oil quality, just a slight difference in anti-wear agents. This info is NOT reflected in the current Valvoline online documentation.

[427hunter]

Been using VR-1 10W-30 for years in my 66. At each oil change I send a sample to Blackstone for analysis. The last 2 years the reports showed some element level changes, including lower zinc. I was suspicious this was due to a formulation change so this year I send a virgin sample in for VOA, suspicions were confirmed. The old formulation Zinc/Phosphorus levels were ~1400/1300ppm, new levels are ~1100/1000ppm. The new formulation also has an increase in anti-wear agents molybdenum and titanium (which previously=0).

Don't believe this means anything as far as oil quality, just a slight difference in anti-wear agents. This info is NOT reflected in the current Valvoline online documentation.

I read vr1 went down on zddp and now supposedly it's 1400 ppm again, when did you have it tested ? - I trust Blackstone more then Valvoline on line.

[427hunter]

What's the consensus for engine oil? My engine builder says Valvoline VR1 20W-50 Racing oil, I asked why and he says he's Just always used it. Also what about break in oil? The engine has a new cam and the valvoline jug says it's a High Zinc formula, the builder says it's fine but I have a knowledgeable friend that says break in oil is the way to go.
Any thoughts?

If it's a new engine with a flat tappet cam I would used comp cams break in oil. It's the best oil for flat tappet cams.

[rhjanes]

Racing oils are a trade off (like everything is).  They typically don't have much detergent in them.  Racers change their oil a LOT!  But then we are probably not driving these classics as daily drivers with race oil in them either.  So sludge build up probably isn't much of a concern.

I use a standard, old dino juice 10W40 in both my 1969 302 and 1970 428 Mustangs.  Last change I got Castrol at my local Walmart. I also add some of the zinc treatments out there. My local O'Reilly even carries the zinc now.  I probably don't have to even do that as I'm not pulling trailers or driving with high engine loads when these old cars parts were made to have zinc in the lubricants.

Any of today's oils are light years ahead of what was on the market when these old cars were built.

Ok, then what's the difference than just go ahead and buy the oil like VR1 that already has the zinc in the oil

They typically don't have much detergent in them. <<<<  Because I'm not aware of a additive to add Detergent.    Zinc, yes.  Detergent, no.  So I choose to buy 10W40, dino, with detergent and add the zinc.

[s2ms]

I read vr1 went down on zddp and now supposedly it's 1400 ppm again, when did you have it tested ? - I trust Blackstone more then Valvoline on line.

Had it tested in June, from a fresh bottle just purchased, report below...