Is this the same car you replaced the resistor wire on? I would check the coil voltage when cranking hot vs cold, and running hot vs cold. Did you use good quality points and condensor? Lots of Chinese junk out there. I try to stay with Motorcraft or Echlin. A faulty condensor can act up when hot.
Resistor wire...yes.
Echlin points and condenser.
Was doing same thing with Petronix with 12v non-resistor wire.
Checking the coil voltage cranking...yes would confirm the issue, but no, not yet. Waiting on my 00's.
If you put 12v to a yellow top coil for any extended length of time you may have damaged it . It will get hot and damage the internals. I have seen them explode. Try another yellow top or petronix coil.
I'm running the resistor wire to it which reduces the voltage. That was the point on installing a new resistor wire.
I misunderstood reply #29 where you said "Was doing same thing with Petronix with 12v non-resistor wire.'" I thought you were running the Petronix module in the dist and a yellow top coil off of 12V. Thanks for clarifying .Check that off a possible culprit.
No problem at all. It is confusing to say the least.
I said to myself, "the answer is going to be something stupid, i.e., something uncommon and simple to overlook".
The voltage drop to the coil, is likely the answer. If the simple fix is larger cables, then great. It would be great to have a modern ignition that drops the initial advance down to make it easier to start. I can definitely see that as an advantage on a warm engine.
I'm wondering still if I cooked the solenoid too? The tach dropped out of normal operation in all of this just to add to the frustration?
Always remember, "it's always in the last place you look?"