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How do you remove the Moto Lito Steering wheel??

Started by silverton_ford, April 14, 2018, 07:09:10 PM

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silverton_ford

What is the trick to remove the Moto Lito steering wheel from the steering shaft?

I am guessing a two person job (?)...  one pulling wheel and the other smack the shaft with a brass drift and hammer?  Would that work?

Thank you,
Brian

acman63

dont use a puller no matter what .  loosen the nut ,  spray some penetrant on the shaft the day before . something good like Kroil. install the nut just enough so the bronze drift hits the shaft flush on the end and doesn't wander.  If you have a long steering shaft ,  unbolt the steering box . have someone sit in the car and apply upward pressure on the wheel spokes tight to the hub . Give the drift a good blow to the shaft and it should come off.  try not to hit the person helping you (-:
SAAC Concours Chairman

Owner Shelby Parts and Restoration Since 1977

SAAC original first year member

shelbydoug

68 GT350 Lives Matter!

silverton_ford

Quote from: acman63 on April 14, 2018, 08:21:00 PM
dont use a puller no matter what .  loosen the nut ,  spray some penetrant on the shaft the day before . something good like Kroil. install the nut just enough so the bronze drift hits the shaft flush on the end and doesn't wander.  If you have a long steering shaft ,  unbolt the steering box . have someone sit in the car and apply upward pressure on the wheel spokes tight to the hub . Give the drift a good blow to the shaft and it should come off.  try not to hit the person helping you (-:

Great information!  Thank you. 

6s2020

Quote from: acman63 on April 14, 2018, 08:21:00 PM
dont use a puller no matter what .  loosen the nut ,  spray some penetrant on the shaft the day before . something good like Kroil. install the nut just enough so the bronze drift hits the shaft flush on the end and doesn't wander.  If you have a long steering shaft ,  unbolt the steering box . have someone sit in the car and apply upward pressure on the wheel spokes tight to the hub . Give the drift a good blow to the shaft and it should come off.  try not to hit the person helping you (-:


+1
Perfect, and it will come off

Bob Gaines

Quote from: acman63 on April 14, 2018, 08:21:00 PM
dont use a puller no matter what .  loosen the nut ,  spray some penetrant on the shaft the day before . something good like Kroil. install the nut just enough so the bronze drift hits the shaft flush on the end and doesn't wander.  If you have a long steering shaft ,  unbolt the steering box . have someone sit in the car and apply upward pressure on the wheel spokes tight to the hub . Give the drift a good blow to the shaft and it should come off.  try not to hit the person helping you (-:
I do the same thing only slightly different. I loosen the nut all the way flush to the top (to protect the threads) then have another put upward pressure on the spokes or the rim of the wheel as already mentioned .I then take a air hammer with a modified blunt tip attachment (chisel attachment that has been cut off flat) and place against the end of the protected steering shaft and after about 2 seconds of rat a tat tat and it is off. If is is on tight maybe 3 . ;) A side benefit is I don't have to worry about hitting my helper or wheel spokes with a flying hammer using this technique ether . ;)
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

acman63

Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 15, 2018, 01:22:19 PM
Quote from: acman63 on April 14, 2018, 08:21:00 PM
dont use a puller no matter what .  loosen the nut ,  spray some penetrant on the shaft the day before . something good like Kroil. install the nut just enough so the bronze drift hits the shaft flush on the end and doesn't wander.  If you have a long steering shaft ,  unbolt the steering box . have someone sit in the car and apply upward pressure on the wheel spokes tight to the hub . Give the drift a good blow to the shaft and it should come off.  try not to hit the person helping you (-:
I do the same thing only slightly different. I loosen the nut all the way flush to the top (to protect the threads) then have another put upward pressure on the spokes or the rim of the wheel as already mentioned .I then take a air hammer with a modified blunt tip attachment (chisel attachment that has been cut off flat) and place against the end of the protected steering shaft and after about 2 seconds of rat a tat tat and it is off. If is is on tight maybe 3 . ;) A side be
nefit is I don't have to worry about hitting my helper or wheel spokes with a flying hammer using this technique ether . ;)


Figured average person may not have an air hammer.  These can be very dangerous  if you've never used one , bring someone in that has and wear safety glasses. 
SAAC Concours Chairman

Owner Shelby Parts and Restoration Since 1977

SAAC original first year member

Bob Gaines

Quote from: acman63 on April 15, 2018, 01:43:11 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 15, 2018, 01:22:19 PM
Quote from: acman63 on April 14, 2018, 08:21:00 PM
dont use a puller no matter what .  loosen the nut ,  spray some penetrant on the shaft the day before . something good like Kroil. install the nut just enough so the bronze drift hits the shaft flush on the end and doesn't wander.  If you have a long steering shaft ,  unbolt the steering box . have someone sit in the car and apply upward pressure on the wheel spokes tight to the hub . Give the drift a good blow to the shaft and it should come off.  try not to hit the person helping you (-:
I do the same thing only slightly different. I loosen the nut all the way flush to the top (to protect the threads) then have another put upward pressure on the spokes or the rim of the wheel as already mentioned .I then take a air hammer with a modified blunt tip attachment (chisel attachment that has been cut off flat) and place against the end of the protected steering shaft and after about 2 seconds of rat a tat tat and it is off. If is is on tight maybe 3 . ;) A side be
nefit is I don't have to worry about hitting my helper or wheel spokes with a flying hammer using this technique ether . ;)


Figured average person may not have an air hammer.  These can be very dangerous  if you've never used one , bring someone in that has and wear safety glasses.
It was just meant to show a alternative technique and not better or worse. The average person will have a hammer but most likely not a bronze drift. This is just a alternative that I personally like better given I have done it many times both ways. To each their own . It is all good . ;)  I think it is best to use safety glass's when swinging a hammer also . At less then 20.00 at Harbor Freight for a Air chisel/hammer including attachments it is just a little more cost then a regular hammer but like with most new techniques there is a learning curve . Harbor Freight sells the Bronze or Brass drift if the other approach is used also.     
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

acman63

Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 15, 2018, 02:51:08 PM
Quote from: acman63 on April 15, 2018, 01:43:11 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 15, 2018, 01:22:19 PM
Quote from: acman63 on April 14, 2018, 08:21:00 PM
dont use a puller no matter what .  loosen the nut ,  spray some penetrant on the shaft the day before . something good like Kroil. install the nut just enough so the bronze drift hits the shaft flush on the end and doesn't wander.  If you have a long steering shaft ,  unbolt the steering box . have someone sit in the car and apply upward pressure on the wheel spokes tight to the hub . Give the drift a good blow to the shaft and it should come off.  try not to hit the person helping you (-:
I do the same thing only slightly different. I loosen the nut all the way flush to the top (to protect the threads) then have another put upward pressure on the spokes or the rim of the wheel as already mentioned .I then take a air hammer with a modified blunt tip attachment (chisel attachment that has been cut off flat) and place against the end of the protected steering shaft and after about 2 seconds of rat a tat tat and it is off. If is is on tight maybe 3 . ;) A side be
nefit is I don't have to worry about hitting my helper or wheel spokes with a flying hammer using this technique ether . ;)


Figured average person may not have an air hammer.  These can be very dangerous  if you've never used one , bring someone in that has and wear safety glasses.
It was just meant to show a alternative technique and not better or worse. The average person will have a hammer but most likely not a bronze drift. This is just a alternative that I personally like better given I have done it many times both ways. To each their own . It is all good . ;)  I think it is best to use safety glass's when swinging a hammer also . At less then 20.00 at Harbor Freight for a Air chisel/hammer including attachments it is just a little more cost then a regular hammer but like with most new techniques there is a learning curve . Harbor Freight sells the Bronze or Brass drift if the other approach is used also.   

air hammer is a much better solution
SAAC Concours Chairman

Owner Shelby Parts and Restoration Since 1977

SAAC original first year member

silverton_ford

Thank you Bob.  Air hammer is a great technique.  I forgot about that method. 

In college I worked as a grease monkey for a construction company on weekends and nights servicing dump trucks and heavy equipment.  We had to use that method many times for different shafts or pins in some situations. 

Dynomax

As an auto mechanic apprentice in the early '70's our Ford Dealership taught us the following. Back the retaining nut off several turns and apply "heavy upward pressure" while alternately rapidly pushing down and pulling up 180 degrees apart at 3:00 and 9:00 o'clock.  This does NOT mean a "gorilla all brawn and no brains approach"! A good "feel" for just how much pressure to apply is required so that nothing gets damaged. I never had a wheel I couldn't remove using this method and I never damaged anything.