Tool to remove drain plug on T-10 transmission

[TA Coupe]

If you round it off you can more than likely use a socket like the ones that are used for taking off locking lug nuts when you don't have the key.. I have 2 different sets of them and they work very well. The harder you turn them the more they dig in.

THINKWORK Impact Bolt & Nut Remover Set, 13+1 Pieces Bolt Extractor Tool Set, Stripped Lug Nut Remover, Extraction Socket Set for Removing Damaged, Frozen, Rusted, Rounded-Off Bolts, Nuts & Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0869BR8MG/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_55AB5ASSR1FZF9WKTQKE

They sell them at Harbor freight and most automotive parts places.

       Roy

[Royce Peterson]

I have Montgomery Wards brand 1/2" drive square sockets but Herbrand or Snap On or Craftsman are all good brands too. Here's a Herbrand:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/373772510693?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item570693e5e5:g:DS8AAOSwYuphe3nk&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSafTQYbq3L7RBVAMi0K9cwxzGQXo2JwzsFmiI%252FE0QIrwGLlFf3tFcTm5SLBPu3DTNcg9p4Z9vw6GyHmlz42pg8FVmzyLBU6gmLJcxKixoFGUuoNz%252BPtWWTsMh07ijnFw%252BzIZQnk1pAHFZ2rnpOu4xaQkjomMqLWrnH8R%252FFNL90P%252F7vMwFfeRz8LngC%252Bj4bcWBL7NQDXiqEILp0u%252FF0m5qej5o6tkKUIn2DRo10kJdQMQkSqzD6k4R%252FS0TUiRRnJw8uKkc%252BLTgR5m3p8IV0s2UZKkfiMPjIq9AQFvXzwDQtaOwkSVRpUDOyzLy1i9DQtn9D7JV4eoElE%252B3ys0WiOxCotyiyFcyRzoE5YMMiIBfraz1tHvsJFXB53TutuQ6GV9xFDK8foAggLUnj3rSw1b4TYaKSzsoV3rw%252B%252Ftbnhz2CpONWa6L2cAF52fvHQzEqgclT%252BZh8A6ArV1rhdJsDiDSB8T3Pz%252BjCv0TZLc%252B4llbZUgclOT88m8ZjUdMQ9BTkTTBpYfxFwowC%252FNyazo1leUla20l36SUu9%252B6AV6GvmAAv6i9iH1aQKwH5whWn4%252BKT1OacN8eUdOk%252FaWjwbXF8BfmDZu6l4GQlr9dco%252Br8ZJlsNdrnklRRzaFQUlQwU4kvpsc4zW6Z1y2v4LTp2pzqwUcsGfAHEZqby6eFJnZrVkrMUvDzkO%252B2N7v3TOsClfEgBIIYTpsCI9qypR18RmjCPTGJ2Jl7cfUWPitNibyp2R6u%252F108K7PsQsfQKW1dgxYYQyFXT16o5GMGh%252BfT2EH1riZB%252BNtRLMymZuRYLR0N5L4PQXbhDv%252FmHZL0R%252BNPA%252B%252BDQHUDAT%252Bq%252BtANSIZcbLp9dy6Rw%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMyOrq4aRf

[pbf777]

     Yes, I would say an appropriately sized square drive socket would be best, but if one doesn't have one, or finds that the square really isn't of any real known size or made properly square even, then the best tool is a good Crescent Wrench of reasonable size for the job.    

     The advantage of the Crescent Wrench is that one can adjust the jaws, which are not parallel by design, until tight on the square of the fitting as this increases the area in play and moves some loading inward away from the corners (mounting the wrench for the proper direction of the rotation of course    ) this reducing the likely hood of rounding or fitting breakage.  Also realize that many of these plugs are of a casting and of poor material, (after all, it's just a (L.P.) pipe plug    ) and therefore may be somewhat sensitive to excessive corner loading and impacts, whether be from a hammer or an impact wrench; and this fact makes the use of a serrated jaws pipe wrench a bad idea; believe me I've followed many a professional (D.A.  ) plumber who managed to gnaw the square end off a plug, and never get the plug out using a pipe-wrench!   

     After all, they're called a "PIPE WRENCH" for a reason; but then a good 'MONKEY WRENCH' would work well    ;  of which I have a few just for that reason.   

     And unlike the last guy, don't tighten the plug as though your life depends on it, as it is only a plug, for a threaded hole, that is tapered in profile which creates an interference swaging fitment, and what is actually acting on this thing that if tighten properly (reasonably) is really trying to displace it; and vibration is going to have very little effect on this plug ("properly" installed), so guess again?  Also be aware that the use of thread sealers may, but definitely those with Teflon or the use of Teflon tape requires that one pay attention to the torque being applied as they act as a friction reducing lubricant which may lead to excessive tightening effect, and forget about next time or the next guy removing it, one just might (remember the tapered thread creating a swage  ) crack the case casting!   

     One last thought:  If a plug is "really in there", or rusted in place, consider the torque being applied in the effort to remove it, even if one has got a good bite on the fitting; as I said previously, there never was the intention for extreme force to be exerted, and past the reinforced area of boss proper the rest of the side of the casting is somewhat thin, push too hard, and I've seen the casting side break away,..........ops!   

     Scott.

[98SVT - was 06GT]

These a tapered pipe plugs. A hammer is your friend use a wrench that fits well and preload it as much as you can then smack the wrench with a 1-2 lb hammer - acts like an impact wrench to loosen it.

[427heaven]

You ask 100 guys how to do something and you will get 100 different ways of doing things. One thing for sure is that my tools are my friends, after building repairing things for the last 45 years... a vice grip pliers, crescent wrench, rattle gun, pipe wrench, hammers, you name it that plug wont be staying in there very long! I am getting antsy reading its still in that transmission.

[JWH]

I was able to remove both plugs from the transmission tonight.

The "fill" plug came off using an 8 point socket as suggested and a small breaker bar.

The "drain" plug was a bigger challenge as it had been slightly rounded (picture attached) and so the socket would spin off when applying a good amount of force. I went back to the 15MM open end wrench knowing it would make full contact with the sides of the plug and not just the points like the socket does. I fortunately had a piece of pipe that fit over the open end wrench and that provided enough leverage to spin it loose.

       I assume that these types of plugs are available at NAPA but any recommendations on where to pick up a new replacement are welcome.
       Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions on how to get the plugs out, I appreciate it.
Jeff

[Bob Gaines]

I was able to remove both plugs from the transmission tonight.

The "fill" plug came off using an 8 point socket as suggested and a small breaker bar.

The "drain" plug was a bigger challenge as it had been slightly rounded (picture attached) and so the socket would spin off when applying a good amount of force. I went back to the 15MM open end wrench knowing it would make full contact with the sides of the plug and not just the points like the socket does. I fortunately had a piece of pipe that fit over the open end wrench and that provided enough leverage to spin it loose.

       I assume that these types of plugs are available at NAPA but any recommendations on where to pick up a new replacement are welcome.
       Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions on how to get the plugs out, I appreciate it.
Jeff

You may want a Napa replacement to use as a place holder until you find a genuine original. I would try some of the Mustang salvage yards ,used parts sellers etc. for a plug as you are more likely to get one like what came out vs. a generic replacement .

[J_Speegle]

Might even try a couple of the big ransmission rebuilders.

Of course always get a couple of pictures first his "prefect" might not be yours

[JWH]

From Bob's message, I take it that the plug pictured is the original plug that came on the transmission when new? If so, I will clean up and re-use and look for a nicer original down the road. I assumed this had been changed out at some point.

Another question is the "fill" plug has a splotch of orange paint on it, like someone took a big brush and painted the plug and slopped some onto the transmission also. Would this have been factory? Just curious and enjoy learning this stuff.