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Tach mounting screws

Started by Rocket, May 12, 2018, 11:32:23 AM

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gjz30075

Greg Z
6S2249

66TotalPerf

#16
Here's the info from the previous SAAC forum which I have saved in a Word doc:

There are 2 spacers and they act as a crush tube between the tach mount bracket and the metal dash board. The screws go through them. You have to drill or wad punch two 1/2" holes in the dash pad and one for the wiring.

Just pulled original tach (4/2/66) and dash pad off 6S2020.
Screws are Phillips pan heads 1-5/16" long.
Spacers are 11/16" L, 1/2" OD, 1/16" wall

Wire cover: It is typically a rubber sheath not heat shrink. Heat shrink is too thin a wall. You can take a larger size of heat shrink and shrink it down to a comparable diameter size that has a closer to correct wall thickness but it is hard to do it without the heat shrink having wrinkles in it which will not look correct. The sheath slides over the wires.  It is not tight like heat shrink would do.

Remove Tach: take the nut off the back of the bracket holding the tach to it, (so you have access to the two screws holding the bracket to the dash) pull the two screws out, pull the instrument cluster out (mark all the wires) (disconnect the speedo cable) wd40 the three tach wire connections, this is to hopefully unplug them without breaking them. pull wires thru dash hole. reverse when tach is fixed.

https://imgur.com/a/S9vyrz7
-Brent
'66 GT350 Tribute, '66 F100 4x4

hertz350

So, did the guys at Shelby take the dash pad off to drill all the holes or did they do it some other way?
Own SFM6S1624, Black Hertz Automatic built 3/66 now concours trailered restored by Ken Degenstein. Former owner of 1042 a red Hertz automatic and 1643 a black automatic Hertz

JWH

Quote from: hertz350 on January 19, 2022, 05:29:57 PM
So, did the guys at Shelby take the dash pad off to drill all the holes or did they do it some other way?

And I've wondered if they had to remove the windshield to drill the holes in the dash?!

Bob Gaines

Quote from: JWH on January 19, 2022, 06:47:28 PM
Quote from: hertz350 on January 19, 2022, 05:29:57 PM
So, did the guys at Shelby take the dash pad off to drill all the holes or did they do it some other way?

And I've wondered if they had to remove the windshield to drill the holes in the dash?!
Angle drills work great in tight quarters .  Angle drill with small head used for the quarter window rivet holes.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

poboy427

#20
Mustang Parts and Restoration has the spacers. Brandt at Virginia Classic Mustangs  has the screws.

With the speaker grill out you can fashion a pick tool with a 90 degree bent tip and go thru the original factory screw holes and pimple the fresh dash pad. Yes lots of anxiety marking my Ford nos dash pad replacement. Beware, the CS tach assy sits very close to the windshield. Radio out is a plus too, allowing space to eyeball the underdash. Then oversize the holes in the pad for the pedestal spacers and a hole for the tach loom.

My original plan was to screw a pair of long screws into the original metal dash holes and cut off the heads  Those screws were to pimple the dash pad. Won't work. Dash pad will not position using that plan. 

Ray


6S554 Family owed since May 15,1974. Confirmed original alum T-10 4spd, MICO,

SPF 0373 Cobra S/C, Shelby alum 488 stroker FE Tunnel Port, TKO

poboy427

#21
Also my glass was out of the car when I fit the tach bracket. After the glass was set, I final installed the tach to bracket. I strongely suggest spacers. This allows the tach to snug down thus eliminating quivering of a tach that is not seated well.

Ray
6S554 Family owed since May 15,1974. Confirmed original alum T-10 4spd, MICO,

SPF 0373 Cobra S/C, Shelby alum 488 stroker FE Tunnel Port, TKO