Race Fuels, Additives, and Octane Booste? What's real, what's BS, what to use?

[Vernon Estes]

Hey Guys,

Seems to be too much heavy and dramatic content on the forum lately...let's lighten things up with a discussion that I think we could all benefit from...

Figured I would get on here to propose a question as to what fuels, additives, or octane boosts do you guys run in your street driven cars?

I just got done recommissioning a car which had a full tank of ethanol fuel in it for 7 years without being driven. Has taken a long time to get the car to run like these cars are supposed to run.

It goes without saying that mixing high octane race fuels in with pump gas is likely the very best way to go..but not everyone finds it practical or do-able to store race fuel in the facility where they keep their cars. I may go the route of buying individual cans of race fuel..but wanted to see what everyone else is doing.

There is no shortage of auto parts store stocked products which promise different levels of octane boost...but my research indicates that the majority of these products are garbage..most seem to either make remarkably un-achievable promises or rely on somewhat deceptive terms to fool the consumer into thinking a product is more potent than it is. For example, many promise to raise octane levels up to 10 points which is the equivalent (theoretically) raising octane levels by a full number from, say, 91 to 92. Not much of a difference and most common consumers would read the label thinking they are going to raise 87 to 97. An unreasonable expectation but your common consumer might not understand how unreasonable that is in the first place.

For me, the most important rule I follow on fuel is I run ethanol free fuels. I can get 91 ethanol free at my local Hyvee Gas and at a few QuickTrip stations around town among a few other random stations. Highest I can get around here is 91 though...every 93 station here in KC has ethanol in the fuel. I know that many debate whether or not ethanol matters as much as some say it does...but I would rather not run it in my cars, everyone has their own way of doing things though.

I have been meaning to order a few of the higher end boosters out there to give them a try but have not gotten around to choosing which ones. Last night, I stopped by the auto parts store to at least see what was offered and came across Royal Purple's Max Boost. I figured I would give it a try because of a few reasons. It was the most expensive product offered, had the most modest claims on the label, and no effort is made on the label to confuse the consumer about the difference between points and numbers. To my surprise, it did make the 66 Hertz car I was driving run much smoother at high RPMs as well as at idle and start up. Seat of the pants, the car was a bit more responsive. Nothing crazy but the car seemed to be a bit more peppy than before. Overall, seemed like the product did its job. It doesnt even make the claim that it raises octane levels by a large amount but it seems to do more than any other auto parts store product I have ever tried.
http://www.royalpurpleconsumer.com/products/max-boost-octane-booster-fuel-stabilizer/

Ive been researching some of the following brands which are mostly only available through online sources, will probably try them next as they all seem to have fairly good reviews from consumers...

Torco
https://www.amazon.com/Torco-Accelerator-32oz-Best-Additive/dp/B004ZO3VN0/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004ZO3VN0&pd_rd_r=d1598c78-845a-11e8-9704-3b62632c2a1e&pd_rd_w=5TqkU&pd_rd_wg=jbVNu&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3914568618330124508&pf_rd_r=ZW2VQF24N3RHSQQMCE8J&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=ZW2VQF24N3RHSQQMCE8J

"Race Gas"
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B015HRK7ZS/ref=psdc_15718861_t3_B0055DO36Y#customerReviews

Klotz
https://www.amazon.com/Octane-Booster-16-Ounce-Pint/dp/B0055DO36Y#customerReviews


So,...what do you guys use or have experience with? Or is is smarter to just bite the bullet and start buying small quantities of race fuels to keep on hand for a more consistent and more effective way of boosting octane levels?

Kind regards,
Vern

[Bill]

You can get Cam 2 in 55 gallon drums

[FL SAAC]

Cam ll or Sunoco

https://www.sunocoracefuels.com/tech-article/race-fuel-101-lead-leaded-racing-fuels

[s2ms]

I use ethanol free 92 fuel in the 66 as much as possible, probably ~95% of the time. The other 5% is when I run low and there are no ethanol free stations around. I've used Klotz additive if I do have to fill up with ethanol 10%, mainly for the stabilizer in it.

Last year I pulled the carb and took it apart just to check things out and it was as spotless inside as the day it was born.

Dave

[2112]

Toluene

Available at your local paint store in 1 and 5 gallon drums.

[FL SAAC]

ok what's the mix ratio 1 gallon of toluene to how many gallons of 93 octane ethanol fuel ?

what's the end octane gain?

long term effects on gasket and rubber hoses?

Toluene

Available at your local paint store in 1 and 5 gallon drums.

[69 GT350 Vert]

I'd love to run ethanol-free in my 69 shelby, but the only available option for it is 89 octane and it is a 20 minute drive from my house.  I could drive 40 minutes to get 91 octane ethanol free.  There are times when I am on a road tour and have no choice but to buy E10.  As a result, I have just been putting E10 in all the time.  I have Turbo Blue 115 octane leaded available for $9/gallon, but I was told by a friend it has ethanol in it.  I need to confirm that info. 

With that said, I am having fuel-related issues currently also.  My fuel level in the carb bowls drops very low 4 hours after hot shut down and parking in the garage.  I've had the carb apart 3 times and am beginning to think it is the transverse muffler heating the fuel in the tank and increasing the fuel pressure.  My theory is it could force the fuel down into the intake if the pressure gets high enough.  I recently put a new vented fuel cap on my GT350 and I am wondering if it does not vent enough.  I installed a heat insulating plate under my carb temporarily, but that didn't fix the problem.  Next time I drive the car, I will remove the fuel cap after hot shut off and see if the fuel drops well below my clear site plugs. 

I've been looking for a reason to put real dual mufflers on my car now that my 351W makes 380 HP.  The possibility the transverse muffler is heating my fuel up in the tank is the best reason so far. 

[NC TRACKRAT]

Around here in Winston-Salem, we've recently been blessed with some Shell stations offering non-ETHANOL 93 for around $3.45/gallon.  (That Shell Rewards program really comes in handy.)  Using it in the GT350's and my track car.     

[gt350hr]

    Vern,
      First and FOREMOST it is important to know IF you actually need more octane. For example I built a dedicated 408Ci 351W engine for my '67 Ranchero to use 87 octane ARCO ( the cheapest here in So Cal). Dyno tested and calibrated to 480 hp with Gas I purchased at the station by my house on dyno day. After 6 or so months my curiosity drove me to the local 1/8th mile drag strip ( Irwindale) to see what it would run. It ran 8.ohs or about 12.40 ( 1/4 mi equivalent). No issues and actually won the "gambler's race" with it!  Feeling like Superman , I went the following week except this time I "rewarded" the engine with a tank of 91. Driving to the track was uneventful but the car ran slower and honestly felt sluggish at the track , running almost two tenths slower and 1 mph less. After a few runs I left very confused. To verify my suspicions I went back the next week with 87 and the performance was back to 8.ohs.
   Bottom line the combination simply didn't "like" the extra octane.

   Back to your question.  "Additives" are often as expensive or more expensive that 100+ octane gas. When adding anything to existing fuel the toughest thing to accomplish is equal "blending" of the given additive. You dump it in and "hope" it mixes well. the smaller the quantity of additive , the more daunting probability of blending. A long time family friend (now RIP) worked for Conoco in the fuel lab. I asked him about racing fuels and additives and his response was "spike" gas with racing fuel before resorting to an octane additive. He explained octane additives don't always add "good things" just those that can raise octane. MBTE is one of the "bad ones" he mentioned , same one used at the pump. Royal Purple and ''Racegas" additives are high quality , trusted products. One thing is for sure Alcohol is not good is a gasoline based fuel system. Avoid it whenever possible. Before adding anything ( including tolulene) make sure you study up on the potential hazards involved. Unless you happen to be a chemist of course.
     Randy

[Don Johnston]

Randy is correct.  I am running 89 E-free available only a mile from  my home and priced the same as premium E-10 (about $3.99 here).  It is only available at the pump near marinas for boating.  Both the 66 GT350 and 65 Mustang GT are tuned for it and run beautifully.  Mixing additives works if done correctly with proper ratio and mixed.  You car is not a chemistry lab with a properly calibrated system.  How much do you add when you do not have a fully empty tank?  You invariably will guess or dump in the entire can.  Not a good measurement. You will also get colorful readings on your plugs.  Too much additive can cause an improper burn.

And besides, there is no independent verification that the octane stated at the pump is what you are actually getting.  The pumps are only checked for correct dispensing volume. 

[CSX 4133]

93 octane, non ethanol fuel without any issues and no additives.

[propayne]

Great thread Vern -

FWIW years ago my brother-in-law bought a place in the country and his nearest neighbor was a CITGO station.

The underground tanks at the station leaked and got into his well water. He of course sued and one interesting twist was the difficulty proving that it was CITGO gas that leaked, as station owners get gasoline from different suppliers and only really pay just to be able to use the signage.

What I do is never fill up my tank all the way unless I am taking my 390 4v Cougar on a long trip. I only keep about a quarter of a tank in it at any given time and I drive my car a lot in an effort to keep fresh gas in it.

Every once-in-awhile I put in 101 octane ethanol free aviation gas that is available at a small airport that is very close to me.

Not sure if any of this is doing any good so am interested to read more responses on this thread.

- Phillip

[2112]

ok what's the mix ratio 1 gallon of toluene to how many gallons of 93 octane ethanol fuel ?

what's the end octane gain?

long term effects on gasket and rubber hoses?

Toulene
R+M/2...114
Cost...$6.50/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...94.2 Octane
20%...96.4 Octane
30%...98.6 Octane
Notes: Common ingredient in Octane Boosters in a can. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, I.e. from 92 to 92.3. Often costs $3-5 for 12-16 ounces, when it can be purchased for less than $3/gal at chemical supply houses or paint stores.

I only use 5% as my engines were built for 92 pump gas and I am just trying to ensure I have no preignition due to gasoline that is not as advertised on the pump.

[FL SAAC]

+ 1

link=topic=2371.msg20328#msg20328 date=1531243945]
ok what's the mix ratio 1 gallon of toluene to how many gallons of 93 octane ethanol fuel ?

what's the end octane gain?

long term effects on gasket and rubber hoses?
[/quote]

Toulene
R+M/2...114
Cost...$6.50/gal
Mixtures with 92 Octane Premium
10%...94.2 Octane
20%...96.4 Octane
30%...98.6 Octane
Notes: Common ingredient in Octane Boosters in a can. 12-16 ounces will only raise octane 2-3 *points*, I.e. from 92 to 92.3. Often costs $3-5 for 12-16 ounces, when it can be purchased for less than $3/gal at chemical supply houses or paint stores.

I only use 5% as my engines were built for 92 pump gas and I am just trying to ensure I have no preignition due to gasoline that is not as advertised on the pump.
[/quote]

[NC TRACKRAT]

I don't want to sidetrack this excellent thread but want to offer a differing opinion.  Keeping your tank filled will minimize condensation. Water is the enemy.  Also, I can attest that 93 non-ETHANOL treated with STABIL as directed can last up to 2 years and still perform as intended.