Author Topic: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix  (Read 857 times)

mygt350

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Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« on: February 18, 2018, 05:34:36 PM »
When installing a Pertronix Ignitor II or III module that really needs full 12volts, do you continue to use the pink "resistor" wire that's connected to ignition switch and main disconnect and tucked under the instrument panel or do you disconnect the pink resistor wire behind the ignition switch and splice close to main disconnect under dash in impossible location?

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Bob Gaines

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #1 on: February 18, 2018, 07:31:21 PM »
When installing a Pertronix Ignitor II or III module that really needs full 12volts, do you continue to use the pink "resistor" wire that's connected to ignition switch and main disconnect and tucked under the instrument panel or do you disconnect the pink resistor wire behind the ignition switch and splice close to main disconnect under dash in impossible location?
You would have to come off the ignition switch with a different wire for the full length of the resistor wire before tying into the gauge feed harness under the hood  if you don't want it noticeable under the hood.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

mygt350

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #2 on: February 18, 2018, 07:47:49 PM »
Bob
So I should be fine by leaving 6 inches of pink resistor wire on main disconnect plug under the dash and replacing it with a normal wire between the ignition pigtail and the new pigtail on main disconnect plug?
Martin
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Bob Gaines

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #3 on: February 18, 2018, 07:50:16 PM »
Bob
So I should be fine by leaving 6 inches of pink resistor wire on main disconnect plug under the dash and replacing it with a normal wire between the ignition pigtail and the new pigtail on main disconnect plug?
Martin
Sorry I can't confirm one way or the other . I only know totally replacing will assure no problems. 
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

texas swede

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #4 on: February 18, 2018, 09:49:03 PM »
If you have an original Rally-Pack in your car you probably need to be careful as the tach is
driven from the plus side of the coil via the resistor wire. Don't know if there would be any
risks but I would check with the experts.
Texas Swede

mygt350

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #5 on: February 18, 2018, 09:52:59 PM »
Hi Bo
Isn't the dash mounted tach on a 65 GT350 connected to + side of coil? Wonder if increased coil voltage would possibly smoke a Cobra tach.
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Bob Gaines

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #6 on: February 18, 2018, 10:16:13 PM »
Hi Bo
Isn't the dash mounted tach on a 65 GT350 connected to + side of coil? Wonder if increased coil voltage would possibly smoke a Cobra tach.
In the pertronix scenario the assumption is using the pertronix coil also which uses the increased voltage. I don't know about a 65 tach  but you will definitely smoke a stock Ford yellow top coil over time. I am not sure how long it will take but if you ever have hot wired one of these cars the coil gets smoking hot in no time with full 12V. I suppose you can run a extra lead starting from where the resistor wire comes out for the coil and distributor module. That way you would still have the resistor wire for the tach (ralley pack,66 GT350 ,67/68 ). I am not sure about the 65 because it gets it signal from the coil lead.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

texas swede

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #7 on: February 18, 2018, 11:07:57 PM »
Martin,
I didn't realize you were talking about the GT350 but a standard Mustang.
You are not correct. the 65 tach is driven from the negative side of the coil and
not like a Rally-Pack. I don't know if the 65 tach runs any risk. Mine was fried twice
by a faulty condenser and the two repairs wasn't cheap. After that I introduced an
inline 2A fuse on the red cable from the coil and tach. Since then no problems.
Bo
« Last Edit: February 18, 2018, 11:10:10 PM by texas swede »

mygt350

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #8 on: February 18, 2018, 11:34:44 PM »
Bo
I think I will play safe and install a 2A inline fuse as you suggest. My Tach works and I really want to keep it that way. If I do move to Pertronix, I sure don't want to fry a original yellow top coil by throwing too much juice to it. Think the Petronix Ignitor will function properly using the resistor wire. They recommend full 12V for max spark. Will give them a call .
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texas swede

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #9 on: February 19, 2018, 07:08:03 AM »
Martin,
I have been running the original Pertronix on my 67 Shelby over in Sweden for many years
and for a while I used the Pertronix Flame Thrower coil as well. This coil started to act up and
the car died on me several times so I put in an original coil and everything has worked very well since then.
However, I would never put a Pertronix into my 65 for purity reasons as I have an original FoMoCo marked
point set and never had any problems with them.
Texas Swede

Bob Gaines

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #10 on: February 26, 2018, 12:15:31 AM »
Martin,
I have been running the original Pertronix on my 67 Shelby over in Sweden for many years
and for a while I used the Pertronix Flame Thrower coil as well. This coil started to act up and
the car died on me several times
so I put in an original coil and everything has worked very well since then.
However, I would never put a Pertronix into my 65 for purity reasons as I have an original FoMoCo marked
point set and never had any problems with them.
Texas Swede
That is most likely because the Pertronix coil is meant to have a full 12V just like the Pertronix dist module.
Bob Gaines,Shelby Enthusiast, Shelby Collector , Shelby Concours judge SAAC,MCA,Mid America Shelby

BrentW

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #11 on: February 27, 2018, 01:01:13 AM »
I ran an Ignitor 1 for many years on my '66 GT350 clone and about a year ago switched to the Ignitor 3. I believe '66 GT350s with original tach need special wiring since it's run inline but I'm running a reproduction 3 wire and it works fine. The Ignitor 1 can use the original yellow top coil but the Ignitor 3 MUST use the Flamethrower 3 coil, or another low-resistance coil. I always just match the Flamethrower coil to whichever Ignitor I'm using. Additionally, you'll see the Ignitor manuals recommend running a full 12V source to the positive coil. As you puruse various forums, you'll see that many people skip this step and it "works fine" but then you also have many people who have the Ignitor die on them. Most posters I've read who have problems did NOT run the new 12V wire. I've ran my Ignitor 1, bought in 2001 when they were supposedly poor quality, for years without troubles and 2 years ago I bought a new Ignitor 3 and it's been even better for hot start and RPM limiter.

The pink wire plugs into a bullet connector coming off the ignition; unplug this connection and secure the pink wire out of the way. Now run a new 12/14 gage wire from this bullet connector off the ignition to the positive post on the coil. The existing wire going to the positive post on the coil can be zip tied out of the way. With this setup you'll now be providing 12v during driving, instead of the approx. 7v through the pink wire, and during start you'll still have the full 12v supplied. This setup is also nice because you don't hack up the wiring harnesses and can easily switch back to points, if desired.
'66 GT350 clone built over 12 years and now being driven!

BrentW

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Re: Pink "Resistor" Wire and Pertronix
« Reply #12 on: February 27, 2018, 01:17:04 AM »
Also, I did find the wiring diagram for using Pertronix Ignitor 1 with a Faira tach. I haven't used these instructions though.
'66 GT350 clone built over 12 years and now being driven!