I believe I saw some time ago a post on here where someone used Pringle chip lids to protect the hood pins from scratching the scruff plates.. Anyone else remember or find post?
TY,
Gimpy
I saved this from the pre-crash site. I think it was an old milk carton but looks like it would work! Posted it once and got in trouble.
Cheers,
Steve
;D TY.
How about another alternative? Remembering a simple step is a lot easier and less hassle then remembering to rig up some extra add on item when closing the hood. First you have to have the height of the pin adjusted properly . You want it adjusted so that the hood with little pressure will push down below the click pin hole sticking through the hood. That is a one time adjustment. Someone out there may not know how to adjust the click pin. The pin has a jam nut holding the threaded end tight so it will not turn. You loosen the jam nut and turn the pin one way or the other to adjust up or down . You may need something like a Phillips screw driver to fit into the hole of the pin to help turn it. After you have adjusted the height as I previously described you tighten the jam not so that the pin does not turn. After this one time adjustment is done you are ready to put on the click pin. By pushing done on the plate and exposing the hole instead of just jamming the click pin into the hole and levering it into place you eliminate the scratching of the plate.You take a thumb or a finger and push down on one of the rivets holding the plate so as not to leave a smudge on the stainless (not chrome) plate. The pin goes through the hole that has plenty of clearance from the previous step. When you release the pressure from your thumb or finger the hood comes back up (only talking about 1/4-1/2 of a inch) resting lightly on the click pin and you are done . No risk of scratching the plate . I think it is reasonable to say that any plastic disc can be considered ugly when compared to the exposed click pin plate. I believe all of this extra effort stems from not considering the simple solution of adjusting the pin correctly and pushing down so as to expose the hole better. My added technique of placing a thumb or finger over a rivet to push down with is just so that the plate is kept shiny. Of course if you don't care about a smudge then don't worry about where to put your digit but at least now you will not scratch your plate. If you need the extra effort of installing plastic discs over the pin to remember not to scratch your click pin plates then do what you have to do. I just shake my head when ever I see some oddball plastic disc over the click pin plate on a otherwise beautiful car. This is meant to be a helpful alternative to figuring out which plastic disc to use. ::)
While not on a Shelby, I used clear bra to cover the area underneath hood pins on another vehicle. Virtually invisible yet prevents scratches.
Bob Thanks so much for adjustment details. My idea on the plastic cover was just a temporary use when opening of closing hood. Especially in garage.
Gimpy.
Quote from: gimpystoy on May 11, 2020, 05:59:05 PM
Bob Thanks so much for adjustment details. My idea on the plastic cover was just a temporary use when opening of closing hood. Especially in garage.
Gimpy.
Doing it the way I described there is no advantage to adding the plastic disc in the garage ,show field etc. It is a unneeded extra step. The problem arise's when a clueless person opens or try's to close your hood for you and instead of pushing done on the plate to expose the hole they cram it into the partially exposed hole and scratch the plate while levering it in place. The same dangerous person will take the click pin out instead of pushing down on the plate for clearance , pulls it out straight which drags it across the plate surface scratching it. If you have people who may be monkeying with your hood then you need all the protection that you can get and then that might not be enough. ::) If you are the only one touching your car then it is nice to know how to do it the right way.
I'll remain clueless. Cars shake, twist and rattle. So, even with the pressure described, what prevents the tension from rubbing the chrome off of the hood pin...when that is where the judges will look.
I cut the circles out of used milk jugs and it worrks. You're welcome.
I use a simple plastic washer, it works great What is that simple washer?
A oil drain plug washer, (clear), you do not see it, unless you get right up to it and look.....will post a picture later.
I am sure my pictures will be rotated wrong, Please fixem rotater guy.
I have the same issue with a 1600 mile restoration. The flex allows the edge of the plate to rub the chrome off the hood pins. I also made the mistake of setting the pins lower than they should have been and scratched the pin plates. AMK offers a very nice set of hood pins, plates and lanyards. They offer the heavy duty plates and rivets separate. Just buy a new set, adjust them correctly.
I also used cut milk jug when I was adjusting the fenders. I cut up 1' squares and used my punch set and punched round holes in them. The serated washers on the fender bolts will destroy paint. You don't want to tighten them up until you are adjusted completely and have no intention of adjusting further.
Then remove one at a time and reinstall the bolt and tighten. Just don't over-tighten them. The washers will cut in and the paint will come off.
Additional thought... the hoods are not flat, but have a degree of curvature to them in the hood pin area. So the pins cannot come through at a 90* angle, they have to be slightly tilted so that the holes match the slope of the hood.
Cannot open a ".heic" = High Efficiency Image File Format
Sorry, it seems to be a iPhone thing that I cannot figure out! I took a clear plastic oil pan plug and used the washer as a buffer between the clip and the plate.
Quote from: 67 GT350 on May 28, 2020, 09:01:54 AM
Sorry, it seems to be a iPhone thing that I cannot figure out! I took a clear plastic oil pan plug and used the washer as a buffer between the clip and the plate.
One of the pics converted to jpg is attached.
Quote from: 67_1183 on May 28, 2020, 12:40:26 PM
Quote from: 67 GT350 on May 28, 2020, 09:01:54 AM
Sorry, it seems to be a iPhone thing that I cannot figure out! I took a clear plastic oil pan plug and used the washer as a buffer between the clip and the plate.
One of the pics converted to jpg is attached.
Not that you care about originality given the oddball washer under the click pin but by pushing the click pin over the rivet it makes it that much harder to not scrape anything . Scraping is something you apparently do care about. In this case the top of the rivet. You need to clock the hood pin so that the click pin goes BETWEEN the rivets and not over them.That is why Shelby American did it that way ;) . FYI the click pins were meant to be installed going towards the hood scoop on most of 66 and all of 67 just in case you want it to look original . In the case of 65 and early 66 the rivets were installed in a different location so that the click pin went straight back as in your picture and BETWEEN the rivets.
a reference (PR photo from early '67) of the orientation of the plate/rivets to the pin and clip...
If you can see the 3rd picture, it is not touching the rivet.
Quote from: 67 GT350 on May 28, 2020, 01:49:16 PM
If you can see the 3rd picture, it is not touching the rivet.
Yes the nose of the pin does not reach the farthest most rivet but that is not the one that is at issue in this scenerio. Not trying to be arguementive on purpose but I suppose you appartenly hadn't thought about that in the process of inserting the click pin that the click pin has to pass over the rivet head which is opposete of the one you say is not touching in the picture. ;) Because of this the click pin can come in contact with the revit head in this case depending on pin adjustment. If it dosn't come in contact then there would not need for the nylon washer given the rivet head is supstantially taller then the surface of the scuff plate. Just something to consider.
Yeah, the angle of the pin is easy enough to change, I did not even think of that, I just made sure it did not touch. Man all that stuff that has to be right to be correct....I would not want to do the concourse gig personally.....
Quote from: 67 GT350 on May 28, 2020, 02:56:57 PM
Yeah, the angle of the pin is easy enough to change, I did not even think of that, I just made sure it did not touch. Man all that stuff that has to be right to be correct....I would not want to do the concourse gig personally.....
Understood. But, the research side of the concourse stuff is fascinating and extremely rewarding personally.
I agree, whatever one wants to do....
I am remembering again in my younger Shelby ownership....I was 22 years old, car number 1424, modified. Funnest car ever....I had it at my parents house in the garage. A garage door spring gave way and the top of the rear quarter was hit. It was ugly....but I was going back to school and did not have the money to fix it. I drove it!! It still offered me all the fun....Correct? NOT! I did not have a care in the world....but we are talking about hood pins today....something funny about that.
Wish I had that car today! I would sell my current GT350 that I have now in 2 seconds for it. One thing is for sure, we cannot get that time back!
Quote from: 67 GT350 on May 28, 2020, 02:56:57 PM
Yeah, the angle of the pin is easy enough to change, I did not even think of that, I just made sure it did not touch. Man all that stuff that has to be right to be correct....I would not want to do the concourse gig personally.....
In this instance the way SA did is not a concours issue but is one that is meant to help you maintain your car with the least amount of problems.