Having a litle more free time lately. I have spent countless hours massaging the original doors and fenders for 1127 and those parts are ready for paint. Probably could have replaced them but I feel better with restored originals. I spent a tone of time working on the gaps and fit. I think I made them equal to or better then the factory.
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Gorgeous.
Nice shop too! Looks like a surgical suite.
Concerning the brake scoops, was it discernible if the usual blackout applied within or just body color?
I would say within and done before scoop was mounted such that rivets/washers would be natural and not painted.
Mine had been repainted poorly in the past
I believe the blackout was post assembly.
Nice gaps, almost always better to restore original parts if they can be saved.
Quote from: trotrof1 on May 18, 2020, 09:37:49 PM
Concerning the brake scoops, was it discernible if the usual blackout applied within or just body color?
The black was applied at Shelby but before the scoops and ducts were riveted to the body
Great to see your making headway
Congrats on the progress. She's looking great!
looks very good, nice work it shows.
Looking good! Like those even gaps.
Must be the season of restoration, sending 1134 to paint tomorrow. Like yours, a not so good paint job(a 10 footer). This time Ivy Green and no stripes.
Are you putting stripes on yours?
Greek
Looking really nice and making nice progress!
Quote from: greekz on May 19, 2020, 10:13:59 AM
Looking good! Like those even gaps.
Must be the season of restoration, sending 1134 to paint tomorrow. Like yours, a not so good paint job(a 10 footer). This time Ivy Green and no stripes.
Are you putting stripes on yours?
Greek
Nice, Greek! Please post pictures before and after, if you would. :D
Solid green no stripes. I like the look without stripes. Was an Archway Motors car,
Still looking for an emblem
Quote from: davez on May 19, 2020, 12:29:49 PM
Solid green no stripes. I like the look without stripes. Was an Archway Motors car,
Still looking for an emblem
Will do on a new thread.
spent 23 hours and 10 bags of media this weekend blasting the unibody, hood , trunk and hinges
the fiberglass used to bond the outer skin to the frame was coming loose so I carefilly trimmed it back and blasted the frame
Going to epoxy prime and redo the bonding edge
Wow - the sheet metal looks great. Well done!
Quote from: Shelby_r_b on May 25, 2020, 10:09:15 PM
Wow - the sheet metal looks great. Well done!
Yes, beautuful
If I did that it would be flash-rusting where I'd started by the time I got the car done
Very, very nicely done!
Quote from: davez on May 25, 2020, 10:02:53 PM
spent 23 hours and 10 bags of media this weekend blasting the unibody, hood , trunk and hinges
Great job. You are the man!
Looks great!
Great start. Much work and reward are in front of you. Enjoy it as it comes
Looks great! Which media did you use?
Thank you. Black Diamond from Tractor Supply fine grain and glass beads from TP. In the future I'll probably only use glass beads
Quote from: davez on May 26, 2020, 06:26:37 AM
Thank you. Black Diamond from Tractor Supply fine grain and glass beads from TP. In the future I'll probably only use glass beads
Is fine grain silica? Did the glass work better?
Can I send you my car next? ;D
Quote from: 2112 on May 26, 2020, 10:31:57 AM
Quote from: davez on May 26, 2020, 06:26:37 AM
Thank you. Black Diamond from Tractor Supply fine grain and glass beads from TP. In the future I'll probably only use glass beads
Is fine grain silica? Did the glass work better?
The black diamond from tractor supply is made by us minerals 3060 4080 coal slag it works fine but can only be used once or twice at the most. about $10 a bag. Can be very dusty. Always want to weasr a good respirator and protection when using it.
The glass is scatmagic 40 to 80 mesh from TP tools $33 par bag if you buy a pallet of 10 plus shipping. You can use it for at least 3 cycles.
The finish is very similar and they both work about the same
The glass will last longer and produces less dust and is less dangerous healthwise.
In the future I'll pay extra and only use the glass. They have 15% off sales a few times a year. However a friend of mine and I have been talking about having a dustless blast person come in $650 for the outside of a car and probably double tha. It maty be worth it to pay someone else to do the dirty work. Could probably do iun a day what I did in the weekend. Might have primer on the body by now if I did. My reservations are the dustless blasting uses glass in a water slurry. Haven't learned enough about it yet. Not sure how a bare metal body getting wet doesn't rust right away.
Quote from: BGlover67 on May 26, 2020, 11:07:50 AM
Can I send you my car next? ;D
That's Funny Brian
I have 5 of my own cars after this one I could possibly do and a friend of mine has at least 3. Were both 54 soo thanks but probably wouldn't get to it.
I have used the dustless blasting method and it does a great job but it is terribly messy. The problem is the slurry is a nasty mess like mud that has to be cleaned once dried. They also spray the car down with a solution which prevents rust immediately and it works. I kept one bare metal inside a garage for about 3 years and it did not flash rust :-).
Quote from: Greg on May 26, 2020, 07:57:46 PM
I have used the dustless blasting method and it does a great job but it is terribly messy. The problem is the slurry is a nasty mess like mud that has to be cleaned once dried. They also spray the car down with a solution which prevents rust immediately and it works. I kept one bare metal inside a garage for about 3 years and it did not flash rust :-).
Do you mean cleaning the mud slurry from the ground, or off the car itself? What did you do before painting if anything to clean off the rust preventative?
Sanded the body with 180 and scuff pads. Gave it a bath in Picklex
apron markins
large D on each kickpanel area
HP on drivers rear apron outer under the hood hinge mounts
R on radiator support I'm guessing was for the color? ivy Green
Haven't seen an HP in that location before - interesting. Guess filler guy or someone doodling. Of course all but the last making (top picture to bottom) would have been "hidden" under the layer of black paint and in that one location sound deadener.
Can't make out the location of the bottom picture. Where is that a picture of
Thanks
Quote from: J_Speegle on May 31, 2020, 07:00:51 PM
Haven't seen an HP in that location before - interesting. Guess filler guy or someone doodling. Of course all but the last making (top picture to bottom) would have been "hidden" under the layer of black paint and in that one location sound deadener.
Can't make out the location of the bottom picture. Where is that a picture of
Thanks
I was surprised to see an HP there also. Almost wiped it out during blasting and I started seeing the yellow show up. I spent a bunch of time with laquer thinner and a rag unearthing the others.
Large D's are on the inside of each kick panel. Photo is passenger side under dash.
Previous owner wiped out all the markings that are supposed to be on top of the black based on some of the VA Mustang restoration threads.
Are there any that I can put back on with confidence?
Obviously wont know the numbers for the fender carts where the bumper brackets bolt up.
Whats the best yellow marker to use to put back the markings before paint?
I have a paint marker from a welding supply but it's pretty runny.
Thanks In the interior is different.
Any that you found on the car and have documented should surely be replicated since its a part of the findings and history of the car.
I've used permanent lumber or crayon markers in the past with no problem painting over the marks. At just the right angle they can be seen in the finished product. Of course hardened paint does not allow them to bleed through like they originally did. Might be a good thing since, as time passed the material spread out across the panel under the paint making the lettering and numbering allot larger than the day they were applied
The examples below are likely "bolder" than they were day one. Note: different car, year and application
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/14/6-310520193641.jpeg)
The fender hook numbers would repeat themselves and the patterns as well as digits used have been documented. Your choice to replacement is your choice at this point. Kind of depends on the direction you have chosen for the car during your ownership. In any case keep the documentation with the car.
updated progress
stripped hood and redone bonding area between metal frame and fiberglass skin
body in oxide
and after a lot of weekends of priming and blocking and fitting and adjusting more priming
final primer on 1127 is done
Looking good, Dave.
Greek
DEFINITELY getting there! Nice, Dave!
Always exciting to see them in that state, knowing that completion is looming ever closer.
updated progress on 1127
interior
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outer floor
in the booth last weekend
others
for what it's worth, i have car 1122. green/ no stripes. mostly original except exhaust, wheel (torque thrust), maintenance items, rear traction bars (koni)
Scoops...we are all ready to get 1122 back on the road !!!
Dave,
Very cool, another 66 in VA closer to being on the road again.
Dave
Dave,
Looking great! Love the green.
Greek
Looks good. Thanks for sharing the pictures.
after a spring of house projects, cleaned a ton of black parts and painted a bunch
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Beautiful! Love the green and no stripes.
Thanks for sharing. Your doing lots of detail work - nice job. The blue marking on the rear housing is a really odd one. Don't recall ever seeing that one before but this is a good time to remind other 66 owners/builders to not blindly copy details from other cars since there is always the chance that your car didn't get that detail or yours was built at a different time period than what you saw on someone else's restoration.
Keep up the nice work and the level of detail.
Thanks Jeff
Those markings are a blue /green teal color on top as well as underneath of the axle tube same side
Quote from: davez on July 29, 2023, 09:34:08 PM
Thanks Jeff
Those markings are a blue /green teal color on top as well as underneath of the axle tube same side
Thanks - just odd. Have not seen a similar one on any Ford car so don't know when or where they came from Sterling plant, San Jose or ??????
Others built around the same period didn't have those but will keep an eye out anyway. Expect, if you show it, for some questions, so bring your pictures :)
Quote from: J_Speegle on July 29, 2023, 10:48:52 PM
Quote from: davez on July 29, 2023, 09:34:08 PM
Thanks Jeff
Those markings are a blue /green teal color on top as well as underneath of the axle tube same side
Thanks - just odd. Have not seen a similar one on any Ford car so don't know when or where they came from Sterling plant, San Jose or ??????
Others built around the same period didn't have those but will keep an eye out anyway. Expect, if you show it, for some questions, so bring your pictures :)
Jeff were engine bays or outer fender aprons primered in red in 1966 at San Jose? How about Dearborn cars from 65-70?
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on July 30, 2023, 01:23:24 PM
Jeff were engine bays or outer fender aprons primered in red in 1966 at San Jose? How about Dearborn cars from 65-70?
They typically had some red oxide applied as a base coat but often not every surface was covered with a nice coat of paint nor was there allot of effort to get into every pocket and corner. Examples - lip or shadow below the cowl to firewall pinch weld, the surface of the radiator support fully or the shadow/pockets under the front most hood bumpers/hood pin brackets welded to the radiator support. Appear to have been no effort to get any of the grey primer on the area, only maybe some overspray in some area closer to the cowl area since it would not be needed. Of course there was red oxide applied from below which would catch some or all of the outer frame surfaces, other pockets and brackets from that angle and the front cross member and some of the lower front facing radiator support.
And finally there was the attempt and hope that almost all (except the downward facing surfaces) would be covered with the black engine compartment paint application as the final stage in the process
Without going into everything and taking the discussion off thread I would share that Dearborn was similar though different in some details :)
Thank you for sharing this fantastic restoration process, details and the ivy green with no stripes is beautiful. I'm representing 6S852 which was the same paint configuration as yours here. that is now Wimbledon white with guardsman blue stripes.. , it will be going on bring a trailer in the next few days. A friend of Carroll Shelby's purchased it, and it still has its black and gold California plates. it will be listed under Johnnydarkgt350 private seller and listed as 1966 Shelby GT350. Of course, always appreciating any comments and thoughts on it when it goes live.. keep up the good work. Love it.
cleaning up the original leaf springs and front coils. Rear leafs have yellow and green stripes, coils have reddish brown and white stripes
Thanks for sharing with everyone. Interesting that yours had the extra white (for those thinking of copying the posted markings) stripe on the front coil springs. We sometimes refer to that as the over/under marking. As we understand that and have been told that indicated that the springs were slightly off the correct rating so they marked those so that a pair could be matched up and installed on the same car without any negative affects.
Looking good Dave. Your car is 7 away from mine. We have many similar markings.
Greek
Dave,
Very cool, did you have to do an intermediate scrubbing or did the springs clean up that well just by one soaking?
Dave
24 hour soak in evaporust. Had to be careful when hosing them off to not blast the paint stripes off.
Quote from: davez on August 27, 2023, 09:15:07 PM
24 hour soak in evaporust. Had to be careful when hosing them off to not blast the paint stripes off.
Haven't had any problem with 24 hrs and removal of paint markings but others report they have for some reasons. Not sure why the difference. I don't heat the both or do any thing special.
some markings on my calipers. I believe the yellow is original not sure about the white sprayed on the other side. Don't believe they have ever been rebuilt