Hi all,
Looking for a fixer upper, red Hertz car, automatic, 6S1014? This showed up recently on Classic Autotrader. Price is a little high at $150K. There is a member on the forum that has looked at the car. If he chimes in, he might be able to give you more info. Anybody know about this car? It still has the MICO master cylinder.
Take care
Cory
https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1966/ford/mustang/101286192
The place, Deming NM and the car, rings a bell. I think it's been up for sale before.
150 plus another 100 to 130 to restore, they aint a 250K car, those days are long past during the mortgage crisis and allthough we got another one brewing, the banks are on that antic.
Realistic, 80 to 100 and just clean it up and drive it. They are not worth "restoring" anymore, just enjoy it. If the owner wants to keep the master cylinder, I go 90K.
He "drove it in jr.high school"? Lucky kid.They didn't let ME drive ANY car in jr. high school,,,,,sigh....Guess he was "mature" for his age....... ::)
Quote from: 6s1640 on May 20, 2020, 02:41:05 AM
Hi all,
Looking for a fixer upper, red Hertz car, automatic, 6S1014? This showed up recently on Classic Autotrader. Price is a little high at $150K. There is a member on the forum that has looked at the car. If he chimes in, he might be able to give you more info. Anybody know about this car? It still has the MICO master cylinder.
Take care
Cory
https://classics.autotrader.com/classic-cars/1966/ford/mustang/101286192
Guy thinks he has red gold there.
If the body is truly rust-free and straight, then you're about +$25-30k ahead of the restoration game and would have a better car in the end compared to one that had extensive sheet metal replacement.
Automatic probably hurts the value a little, but red/gold probably makes up for that.
Quote from: 557 on May 20, 2020, 09:53:47 AM
He "drove it in jr.high school"? Lucky kid.They didn't let ME drive ANY car in jr. high school,,,,,sigh....Guess he was "mature" for his age....... ::)
He must have been held back a lot............
Quote from: 67 GT350 on May 20, 2020, 09:19:21 AM
150 plus another 100 to 130 to restore, they aint a 250K car, those days are long past during the mortgage crisis and allthough we got another one brewing, the banks are on that antic.
Realistic, 80 to 100 and just clean it up and drive it. They are not worth "restoring" anymore, just enjoy it. If the owner wants to keep the master cylinder, I go 90K.
RESTORE?? LOL, I would just clean it up and not put another dime in it except general maintenance and then DRIVE IT!!!
Quote from: tesgt350 on May 20, 2020, 11:26:17 AM
Quote from: 557 on May 20, 2020, 09:53:47 AM
He "drove it in jr.high school"? Lucky kid.They didn't let ME drive ANY car in jr. high school,,,,,sigh....Guess he was "mature" for his age....... ::)
He must have been held back a lot............
Thats funny!
Quote from: 69mach351w on May 20, 2020, 11:38:09 AM
Quote from: 67 GT350 on May 20, 2020, 09:19:21 AM
150 plus another 100 to 130 to restore, they aint a 250K car, those days are long past during the mortgage crisis and allthough we got another one brewing, the banks are on that antic.
Realistic, 80 to 100 and just clean it up and drive it. They are not worth "restoring" anymore, just enjoy it. If the owner wants to keep the master cylinder, I go 90K.
RESTORE?? LOL, I would just clean it up and not put another dime in it except general maintenance and then DRIVE IT!!!
100 per cent right! at 150 to restore it, and I mean not a macko paint job, but to restore it it is not worth it. but if you just got it road ready and got it to look good and drove it, you are at the max. It is just the reality.
probably meant he was a junior in high school.
my first car was a jag e-type roadster. my daily driver to high school and college.
Didn't get mine until the summer AFTER my senior (Sr?)year of H.S. Guess I'm a "late bloomer"..... :'(
Quote from: CharlesTurner on May 20, 2020, 11:05:51 AM
If the body is truly rust-free and straight, then you're about +$25-30k ahead of the restoration game and would have a better car in the end compared to one that had extensive sheet metal replacement.
Automatic probably hurts the value a little, but red/gold probably makes up for that.
+1 to what Charles said.
Rust free, straight body and complete original car is the key to a painless resto and a better end car.
Pay more for better, i doubt the average guy is going to find a 66 project in any condition for under 80k.
I would say the car in question (if checks out) would be 100k +
JMO
Quote from: 6s2020 on May 20, 2020, 04:05:57 PM
Quote from: CharlesTurner on May 20, 2020, 11:05:51 AM
If the body is truly rust-free and straight, then you're about +$25-30k ahead of the restoration game and would have a better car in the end compared to one that had extensive sheet metal replacement.
Automatic probably hurts the value a little, but red/gold probably makes up for that.
+1 to what Charles said.
Rust free, straight body and complete original car is the key to a painless resto and a better end car.
Pay more for better, i doubt the average guy is going to find a 66 project in any condition for under 80k.
I would say the car in question (if checks out) would be 100k +
JMO
Like I said, I would go 90K and if it was present to me for 100K I would take it? That is a realistic number, however what we have found that even though it might be nice, they might need just as much work as one that looks to be nicer, so pay a little more for nicer, is "buyer beware" as a lit of sin can be hidden, don't kid yourself.....these cars are not getting younger....even storage can hurt them.
Quote from: 67 GT350 on May 20, 2020, 05:31:22 PM
Quote from: 6s2020 on May 20, 2020, 04:05:57 PM
Quote from: CharlesTurner on May 20, 2020, 11:05:51 AM
If the body is truly rust-free and straight, then you're about +$25-30k ahead of the restoration game and would have a better car in the end compared to one that had extensive sheet metal replacement.
Automatic probably hurts the value a little, but red/gold probably makes up for that.
+1 to what Charles said.
Rust free, straight body and complete original car is the key to a painless resto and a better end car.
Pay more for better, i doubt the average guy is going to find a 66 project in any condition for under 80k.
I would say the car in question (if checks out) would be 100k +
JMO
Like I said, I would go 90K and if it was present to me for 100K I would take it? That is a realistic number, however what we have found that even though it might be nice, they might need just as much work as one that looks to be nicer, so pay a little more for nicer, is "buyer beware" as a lit of sin can be hidden, don't kid yourself.....these cars are not getting younger....even storage can hurt them.
I'm not kidding my self, been there done that, to all sorts of cars and bikes, got the T-shirt.
I did not use the words "nicer' or "looks to be nicer"
Rust free, straight and complete is the better way to go is what i said
An inspection soon sorts out "Nice" from reality.
I don't think you will by this car for 90k JMO
Please send me your EZ restorations, I never had one of those! There is always something! EZ does not exist especially with todays repo parts, heck even with NOS parts....even when I was a kid there were not easy...If anyone has a 67 GT 350 or 500 that is factory white that is a EZ restoration, please let me know.
New Mexico would be as dry an environment as any, as rust highly unlikely, or should I say the claims of such very likely. Theres got to be a story on the loose tach... probably replace pad after too much exposure, and never got around to replacing. Worth it? Rot free and complete from original family (other than Hertz(RIP)) has to be a good bene any more, but they're going for all the money. Agree drive it, enjoy it. Replace as whim requires or dictates.
It really depends on what one would want to do with it.
If your buying it to drive and then in 3-5 years flip it, then $100-$115 is within reason. If your going to restore it, that would be another $30-35K ($140K all in) unless you outsource everything to a high end shop, then 600-700hrs would cost you at least another $50-60K. Then your in it about $170K, unless the market goes up considerably in the next 3-5 years your probably going to lose $20-30K.
As everyone agree's, rust and searching for correct, rare parts gets expensive fast and creates a lot of frustration, so start with one that is as clean and complete as you can afford and do as much as you can on your own.
Looking at the registry entry, it shows the car did its Hertz duty out of Chicago. One Chicago winter could put a lot of hurt on this poor car. I wonder if it's really rust free or if it's had panel replacement.
Quote from: Shelby_r_b on May 20, 2020, 10:07:54 PM
Looking at the registry entry, it shows the car did its Hertz duty out of Chicago. One Chicago winter could put a lot of hurt on this poor car. I wonder if it's really rust free or if it's had panel replacement.
yep - even car only a few years old back then could be pretty rusty