What company makes the best Aftermarket plug wire for a stock 289. Preferably black in color. I've been using the marti plug wires for 2 restos and want to get away from those. And I'm looking for a great aftermarket brand.
Any help is greatly appreciated👍🏻
Do you want a concourse appearing set or just something that performs well? If you are looking for the latter try wires from Fire Core 50. You can get black or orange.
http://www.firecore50.com/
Denso makes a high quality set that is fairly original looking. (671-8102)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/487-060620005834.jpeg)
Quote from: cj750 on June 06, 2020, 01:04:31 AM
Denso makes a high quality set that is fairly original looking. (671-8102)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/487-060620005834.jpeg)
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dnp-671-8102?seid=srese2&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Brands+%7C+D&utm_term=4581664954733944&utm_content=GSAPI+5ba262a7e55de
My local advance auto has the Denso plug wires but says the 671-8102 will not fit a 289 Ford engine😳
Quote from: 69mach351w on June 06, 2020, 04:16:05 PM
My local advance auto has the Denso plug wires but says the 671-8102 will not fit a 289 Ford engine😳
Yeah, well, it's Advance Auto.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/487-060620164326.jpeg)
Thanks for sharing guys, I do appreciate it.
I've been having a miss at idle rpm's. When I slowing increase the rpm's, it fades away and runs more smoothly.
I know I need to go ahead and tune up with plugs, points, condensor, rotor button, etc., and I was wanting to go ahead and change out the plug wires.
But seems I heard sometime in the past that a rough idle with a smoother run at rpm increase could be a rocker arm that has tilted and not making contact, or worse, a flat lifter.
I'm going to pull my plugs tomorrow for quick inspection and thought while I was at it, pull the valve covers and see if maybe I did have a rocker arm tilted.
I will set the timing, but I just done this a few years ago, but since I was at tuning up everything, naturally I'd set the timing.
Any thoughts on rough idle and rocker arm?
As always all help is deeply appreciated,
Rich
If the tune up doesn't fix it, then I could see a bent pushrod, failing lifter or bad cam lobe as realistic possibilities. But I'd expect a "tilted rocker," if that's even possible on a stock 289, to cause worse problems with increasing RPM, not smooth out. It's always a shot in the dark diagnosing problems over the internet though. So if you do pull the valve covers, let us know what you find.
Before I go crazy, I would identify which cylinder is missing at idle by pulling each wire individually and then checking for a vacuum leak. Also, spray light mist of carburetor cleaner into the carburetor as the engine is running. If the engine Smooths out, you know it's a vacuum leak. Just a thought.
Quote from: 68stangcjfb on June 07, 2020, 10:20:58 AM
Before I go crazy, I would identify which cylinder is missing at idle by pulling each wire individually and then checking for a vacuum leak. Also, spray light mist of carburetor cleaner into the carburetor as the engine is running. If the engine Smooths out, you know it's a vacuum leak. Just a thought.
I cant keep the engine idling, it will stall. So, should I go ahead and tune up? Was going to do that anyway.
What do you guys think about changing over to Pertronix electronic ignition? And an electronic voltage regulator?
BTW cj750, no rocker arm tilted.
Should I go ahead and adjust the valve lash while I have valve covers off? Some may be too tight anyway.
Any help very appreciative ;)
My guess is you have the valves improperly adjusted, no tilted rocker arms, just out of adjustment. I don't know if you have the old style rockers or the newer style rocker where the sides of the rocker arm has actual sides to them cradeling the valve so to speak. You can pull the valve cover off cut a piece of cardboard to fit down in the cylinder head below the valve springs and laying up on the shock tower to catch slinging oil and to make a trough basically. Get a socket with an extension while engine is running, back off each valve individually until it starts to rattle or clack then tighten it until it stops, then go approximately half turn more to give the valve its preload. This should get you in the ballpark and your engine should start to smooth out if this is your true problem... Good Luck
Thanks, that is some great info 427heaven. I've done this before but has been a loooong time ago ;D
I googled valve adjustment but was wondering what to use to keep oil from slinging all over the place. Seems I remember this old Mechanic using some old valve covers cut sort of half way out so as to get to rocker arm nut and adjust the lash w/o the oil getting all over the exhaust ;)
You can do it grasshopper... We have faith in you! In the words of GUNS AND ROSES - Just a little patience ;)
Try using these clips to deflect the oil while you're adjusting the valves, makes it a lot easier.
Roy
I tried to give you the fastest, easiest way to get to your goal without writing a thesis on the subject matter. You ask 100 guys how to do something and you will get 100 different answers on how to do it. I was going to explain the techniques on how to do it with feeler gauges and spinning the pushrods with your thumb and index finger but that would complicate your goals if not experienced with said techniques. My way is the backyard fix to a repair that I have done since my youth where a couple of times I spooled up my ride a little too tight at the drag strip and couldn't drive it home, so an old timer saw a struggling young man and said here let me help you. A lesson learned and one that I am happy to pass along. ;)
Thanks 427heaven and the rest.
I have opted for pertronix electronic ignition, Denso plug wires and NGK V-Power spark plugs.
Tomorrow I am going to start it up and TRY to adjust valves w/o it stalling. Should I manually adjust the idle rpm's up a little to see if that will stop the stalling?
TAcoupe, I don't see any photo on your post.
Again, thanks all,
Rich
Yes run the idle up just enough to keep it running, remember hot oil slings more then cold oil :-[ have everything ready to do the job in front of you. I imagine you have just a few out of adjustment, and when you find them you will see and feel a smoothing out of your engine, only whack the throttle a little to test because you might be watering the roses next to your car with 20-50 good stuff. Keep us posted
Quote from: TA Coupe on June 10, 2020, 04:25:24 AM
Try using these clips to deflect the oil while you're adjusting the valves, makes it a lot easier.
Roy
TA Coupe, I don't see any photo on your post.
Quote from: 427heaven on June 10, 2020, 09:09:45 AM
I tried to give you the fastest, easiest way to get to your goal without writing a thesis on the subject matter. You ask 100 guys how to do something and you will get 100 different answers on how to do it. I was going to explain the techniques on how to do it with feeler gauges and spinning the pushrods with your thumb and index finger but that would complicate your goals if not experienced with said techniques. My way is the backyard fix to a repair that I have done since my youth where a couple of times I spooled up my ride a little too tight at the drag strip and couldn't drive it home, so an old timer saw a struggling young man and said here let me help you. A lesson learned and one that I am happy to pass along. ;)
I know what you mean.
I showed someone who was stuck with bad points how to set them with a matchbook cover and it was like a revelation.
I think he still sets them that way now that I think of it? ::)
;D
That's dating yourself Doug... There are no more match books available is there? I use a credit card and zoom your on your way. ;D
I date myself all of the time. Too old for an attractive woman to date. Oh wait...you didn't mean it that way? Damn. Did it again? ;D
I never found the need to adjust them while it is running.
I remember years ago, maybe 30 years ago, that you could set the balancer at TDC, tighten certain valves to certain ft.lbs., after pushrod quit turning in your fingertips. Then proceed by turning balancer CW so many degrees and do the same thing again until all rockers/valves were adjusted.
Can't remember where I seen that.
Let's see if the link to the oil deflector Clips works this time.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-1015
Roy
Quote from: 1109RWHP on June 10, 2020, 08:19:11 PM
I never found the need to adjust them while it is running.
Thanks TACoupe, I sort of thought you were talking about those.
1109RWHP, I did just that. I brought up TDC and went through all 8 cylinders by the firing order, 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8, and advancing the crank 90 Degrees at a time and twisted the pushrod in my fingers till no twist and/or lash then went 3/4 turn on all 8 cylinders.
Others chime in and give thoughts, they are much appreciated.
Rich
BTW, got the Denso plug wires yesterday and waiting on the pertronix coil and distributor electronic kit. Already have the electronic voltage regulator. Plan on setting the timing when all is installed.
Drew P. on the SAAC forum here rebuilt my 2V Holley for me ;)
2V Holley😨 you need to be banned from SAAC🤣
Roy
Actually it's not a Shelby neither. Never had the honor to own one😩
But it does have the deluxe interior and exterior 😎
Quote from: 69mach351w on June 14, 2020, 02:50:45 PM
Quote from: 1109RWHP on June 10, 2020, 08:19:11 PM
I never found the need to adjust them while it is running.
Drew P. on the SAAC forum here rebuilt my 2V Holley for me ;)
Just one or one of three? He has a video of running in a 3-2v setup on his Facebook page.
My 67 coupe pictured is a 2V car. and I'm running a 2V Holley
Quote from: shelbydoug on June 15, 2020, 06:57:13 AM
Quote from: 69mach351w on June 14, 2020, 02:50:45 PM
Quote from: 1109RWHP on June 10, 2020, 08:19:11 PM
I never found the need to adjust them while it is running.
Drew P. on the SAAC forum here rebuilt my 2V Holley for me ;)
Just one or one of three? He has a video of running in a 3-2v setup on his Facebook page.
The rocker arms, not the carbs.
Ok, here's the latest.....
I went through and adjusted all the rocker arms.
Installed all the following new:
-NGK plugs (gapped at .035").
-new Denso plug wires.
-Pertronix distributor kit.
-new distributor cap.
-new rotor button.
-New Motorcraft Electronic Voltage Regulator.
And had Drew Pojedinec here on the SAAC site to rebuild my carburetor.
I set the timing to 8* BTDC (Factory is 6*).
The motor runs great. Responds Great when the accelerator is punched.
BUT.......
When I shift it into gear, the car stalls >:( >:(
What do I need to look for? I am no motor expert and any help is deeply appreciated.
Rich
What's your idle speed?
Did you set the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged?
Stock transmission and converter?
Quote from: cj750 on June 17, 2020, 08:01:39 PM
What's your idle speed?
Did you set the timing with the vacuum advance disconnected and plugged?
Stock transmission and converter?
Idle speed 800 RPM(Approx)
Yes, set timing with vac advance disconnected and plugged.
Yes, stock trans and converter.
I didn't have this trouble until I took the previous Holley 2V carb off of it and put it on '68 Mustang I have. I bought the current 2V Holley carb off ebay and had Drew Pojedinec here on the forum rebuild it for me. But the Mustang was doing this stalling before I sent the carb to Drew.
I figured doing all the tranferring from original ignition to electronic ignition and all new items as listed above AND having the carb rebuilt would help with the stalling, but it didn't.
When I punch accelerator in Park, the motor responds Perfectly!!
Just don't understand why it stalls when shifted into drive.
Any help or info deeply appreciated,
Rich
Quick thoughts:
I typically like to time my cars at 10-12 degrees. 8 should be okay, but it doesn't cost anything to try bumping it up a bit.
800 rpm idle sounds a little low, if that's with the car in park. Idle should normally be set with the transmission in "D."
Do you have a vacuum gauge? Manifold vacuum readings with the trans in park and in gear would be useful information.
Quote from: cj750 on June 17, 2020, 09:45:25 PM
Quick thoughts:
I typically like to time my cars at 10-12 degrees. 8 should be okay, but it doesn't cost anything to try bumping it up a bit.
800 rpm idle sounds a little low, if that's with the car in park. Idle should normally be set with the transmission in "D."
Do you have a vacuum gauge? Manifold vacuum readings with the trans in park and in gear would be useful information.
Now, if I set idle in Drive, then want it idle way too fast when I shift it to Park?
I don't have a vacuum gauge, but how can I check for a vacuum leak without one?
Let's see if others here will chime in.
As always, Thanks to all ;)
You can do a smoke test like done on a FI car to check for leaks. It does help.
Lets continue with the back yard mechanics way of thinking, I learned 45 years ago you can spray carb cleaner or wd 40 around leaks and when the rpm s come up you are near the leak... ;D
Quote from: shelbydoug on June 18, 2020, 08:50:02 AM
You can do a smoke test like done on a FI car to check for leaks. It does help.
So, you guys think I have a vacuum leak?
I don't really know how to do the smoke test, but I'm willing to try anything.
Quote from: 427heaven on June 18, 2020, 09:03:21 AM
Lets continue with the back yard mechanics way of thinking, I learned 45 years ago you can spray carb cleaner or wd 40 around leaks and when the rpm s come up you are near the leak... ;D
I've see this type of leak test done. Let me take a photo of the vacuum line from the carb to the distributor and other areas near the carb.
Like I said, this didn't do this stalling with the first 2V Holley I had mounted. So, I'm thinking maybe the carb somewhere is leaking? Like I mentioned, it stalled with this second 2V Holley I mounted even before Drew P. here on the forum rebuild it.
Man, I hope I don't have a cracked "something" on the carb.
Any help appreciated. ;)
I do have my original Autolite 2V carb from my 69 that I can mount If worse-comes-to- worse. I can mount it to see if it stalls, and if it does, I'll know it was the 2V Holley.
But, I'm going to do some tests first.
Thanks All 8)
Its probably at the base gasket surface area below your carb. It cant be crusty. lumpy, bumpy etc. Don't over think it . We will get you to the finish line here on your own power, or helping you across. Go get a can of WD 40 out of the garage and start gently spraying in areas of vacuum connections as well as the base of the carb you will find your problem there.
Fixing to get on it right now. ;)
New gaskets between carb/spacer and between spacer/intake.
I'll be in touch.
Atta boy- Go get em tiger... Your going to be a top notch trouble shootin MEKANIK before this is over. :)
I done the WD40 and carb cleaner spray test after the motor got to operating temp.
With the WD40 didn't hear any change. With the carb cleaner, on the LS of carb just for a fraction of a second, the motor glitched. Couldn't hardly notice it and tried again, didn't hear it. So I let the carb cleaner dry and tried it again and barely noticed the small glitch again.
I'm assuming the gasket isn't making a good contact. They were new when installed, but I will replace both upper and lower and try again.
Thanks and I'll be in touch.
What brand and thickness of gaskets upper and lower do you recommend?
Its not the thickness of the gasket that counts, its the cleanliness of the sealing surface that counts. You must scrape, clean, sand to a nice clean flat surface. Gaskets should fit the contour of the sealing surface correctly, accurately, they should be a mirror image of each other. If there is any GLITCH you are onto the problem. We had faith in you! Spray around intake to head surface you might find something there also.
As I was mentioning earlier. Before I changed carbs I didn't have any of this going on. So I'm thinking I've isolated down to the carb, carb gasket(s) and/or spacer. Before mounting the carb I meticulously cleaned all mating surfaces before installing gaskets. Actually the last time about an hour ago, I went back, and in sequence, corner to corner, snugged the carb up a little more.
I will pull carb back off and visually inspect gaskets and especially the spacer for any kind of Discrepancy. I'm assuming it's going to be gaskets and/or spacer.
I do have the Autolite carb I may put on if all else fails to possibly rule out the Holley carb
More speculating, but if you happen to have this style spacer under your carb, be aware you must use an application specific gasket between the manifold and spacer. A generic parts store 2-barrel Holley/Autolite/Motorcraft pattern gasket used here will cause a vacuum leak.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/487-180620135349.jpeg)
Quote from: cj750 on June 18, 2020, 02:02:41 PM
More speculating, but if you happen to have this style spacer under your carb, be aware you must use an application specific gasket between the manifold and spacer. A generic parts store 2-barrel Holley/Autolite/Motorcraft pattern gasket used here will cause a vacuum leak.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/487-180620135349.jpeg)
That's the spacer I've used for many years with any of my carbs including the last Holley carb and also including an old 2V Autolite before the current Holley and had zero problems. Using, if my memory serves me correct, was either a Holley or a felpro gasket bought at a chain auto parts store.
The current Holley is the one I'm having trouble with with what appears to be a vacuum leak.
cj750, let me in on what gasket you would recommend between the manifold and the spacer AND the gasket between the carb and the spacer.
Is the spacer you show the one with the bottom that is hollow like, sort of 2-3 cavities with very small gaps between each cavity?
Guys, thanks for all the input, I really appreciate it.
Rich
Here's the one like I have on my 289 2V.
Notice the openings circled in red. Always wondered why so many gaps. Would these gaps be contributing to a vacuum leak?
As mentioned, cj750 or anyone, if you could let me know a certain gasket for this spacer between carb and spacer and carb and manifold, I would greatly appreciate it!!
Rich
I found the spacer on ebay with the photo you used.
My spacer has more of the gaps on the cavity bottom than the one you have pictured.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-2-Barrel-2100-Carburetor-Spacer-Original-260-292-1962-1963-1964-Fairlane/324188398615?epid=2308736958&hash=item4b7b226417:g:m38AAOSwJkFdveER
When all else fails go back to rule number 1... The spray test, it doesn't lie. Find it and the rest will be easy. Make sure you have enough to check things thoroughly you might even want to use the rest of the WD 40 for your door hinges, clean pine sap and bird doo doo off your paint. I feel you are very close. Good Luck.
You need this style gasket, with the little tab in back. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c3az-9447-b.html
Quote from: 427heaven on June 18, 2020, 08:21:25 PM
When all else fails go back to rule number 1... The spray test, it doesn't lie. Find it and the rest will be easy. Make sure you have enough to check things thoroughly you might even want to use the rest of the WD 40 for your door hinges, clean pine sap and bird doo doo off your paint. I feel you are very close. Good Luck.
I used the WD40 and carb cleaner and did find a leak on the LS as mentioned earlier. Just curious if the spacer may be troublesome.
cj750 was just saying I needed a different gasket(s).
Quote from: cj750 on June 18, 2020, 08:23:32 PM
You need this style gasket, with the little tab in back. https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/c3az-9447-b.html
I'm wondering if I can get that gasket locally with a part number. like one at WCCC. I'm sure that there's other places that sells this same exact gasket.
Thanks
Rich
Yes, your local parts place should have it.
Take your spacer to your local parts house, get a pair of gaskets for top and bottom of item and make sure it fits it correctly. All sealing surfaces should be covered and flat, clean. This will take care of you problem. I have not slept in the past 2 weeks wondering why a vacuum leak was so troublesome? :-\ This should get you on your way to motoring down the road.
427, I have degenerative muscle issues and the Doc gave me some good meds to help me sleep. You ought to get up with good ol' Doc and get you some. ;D
Guys thanks and will be in touch here.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/487-180620205224.jpeg)
Sorry to poke fun I didn't know. Good Luck
To cj750: just ordered 4 from advance auto with exact PN while ago and got my 20% discount to boot😁
To 427heaven: you didn't poke fun. Just saying get you some good meds to rest😎
If you have hoses coming off of the carburetor and intake spray them all the way to the very end to see if there's a leak that's remote from the carburetor.
Roy
Thanks TA.
I did that and didn't find any leaks. Only on the LS carb between the spacer and manifold. I used WD40
And didn't get anything. Then I used carb cleaner and found the leak on LS of carb.
Going to try new gaskets again and check for any leaks.
Thanks All
Rich
427, hope you got a good nights Sleep 💤 ;D
To me, in reviewing everything that's been written, the issue all points to the carburetor.
The simplest test would be to substitute for it and see if the problem goes away.
My own personal experience with Holleys is that today they are much more subject to power valve failure.
I test every pv and something like 50% are bad right out of the packaging.
Considering who rebuilt your carb I find that surprising but unless a pv check valve kit was installed in it, IF there was a backfire at initial start up, it still could be blown out.
The check valve only reduces failures. It doesn't completely eliminate them.
Switch carbs. See if the problems go away.
I did have the leak on the drivers side between the carb and spacer.
But I did find the following at bottom between spacer, gasket and manifold. A Gas soaked Gasket. And on the spacer, a discrepancy on the passenger side port (see red arrows).
I have no idea where the red came from on the soaked gasket, must've somehow bled through? Beats me. The top felpro gasket is dry, but that's where my leak was!!
Just going to get a new or good used spacer on eBay. And I already bought 4 new felpro gaskets like the ones cj750 showed me.
I don't think there's anything wrong with the Holley carb, so I'm going to continue using it.
Top felpro gasket not soaked. But where the leak was🤨
Spacer is fine.
Put it back together with the Felpro gasket between the manifold and spacer, and the other gasket between spacer and carb. Leak will be solved.
Meticulously cleaned all mating surfaces, put the said gaskets on and re-timed the motor, set idle speed
run through and rechecked everything.
Man, she purrs like a kitten!!
No missing, no vac leaks!!
Got Ol' Dot-Com back on the road.
Ok how many valves were out of adjustment? Any, or was it all the leaking situation. Glad its back to purring down the road. ;)
It's hard to believe that an area super small to the naked eye can cause a motor to run absolutely terrible with a vacuum leak. I did adjust the valves but really they were in good shape. I just wanted to mark that off my list.
Thanks all and I know if my Dad-in-Law was still here, he would be Thanking You Guys also👍🏻😎
He Loved Ol' DOT-COM😊