Any benefits on using this vs anti freeze on a street car ?
No. The other issue is that you can't have ANY residual water or coolant in the system or it reacts. I personally run Royal Purple water wetter and distilled water.
I rarely see over 190 unless I am dealing with an extended idling condition.
Quote from: The Going Thing on July 03, 2020, 12:54:35 PM
No. The other issue is that you can't have ANY residual water or coolant in the system or it reacts. I personally run Royal Purple water wetter and distilled water.
I rarely see over 190 unless I am dealing with an extended idling condition.
What thermostat?
For a street car fresh coolant, what ever is on sale is all that's needed. Check all cooling items are functioning as they should. High volume water pump, fan shroud, hoses, etc. I run a plate system eliminating the t-stat. you can get a pack of 4- hole sizes from 1/2. 5/8. 3/4. 1 inch we don't freeze too often so it works great with performance motors that need heat regulation. You change the hole size to fit your application... Works wonderful !
Quote from: The Going Thing on July 03, 2020, 12:54:35 PM
No. The other issue is that you can't have ANY residual water or coolant in the system or it reacts. I personally run Royal Purple water wetter and distilled water.
I rarely see over 190 unless I am dealing with an extended idling condition.
+1 on the Royal Purple Ice. I live in NH, the car sits in an unheated garage all winter so I use 50/50 mix of Prestone and distilled water. No issues at all with overheating.
I am running a high flow Stewart EMP 180 degree thermostat.
Quote from: 427heaven on July 03, 2020, 03:32:37 PM
For a street car fresh coolant, what ever is on sale is all that's needed. Check all cooling items are functioning as they should. High volume water pump, fan shroud, hoses, etc. I run a plate system eliminating the t-stat. you can get a pack of 4- hole sizes from 1/2. 5/8. 3/4. 1 inch we don't freeze too often so it works great with performance motors that need heat regulation. You change the hole size to fit your application... Works wonderful !
. Didn't they used to call that a blanking plate or some such???
Of course the best solution is a deeper, extra core, extra fins radiator.
You can have one built using stock top and bottom tanks to look really close to stock.
When I was running my stock car roundy rounder at 6200 rpm it would get hot by race end. The water pump needed to slow down or slow the circulation down in my engine. The class dictated it needed to run components that were like factory components. After market parts not allowed, looking around I happened upon these little beauties and slowed the cavitating fluid in my cooling system. Water wetter is allowed at most race tracks because it is not coolant as we think of it. and it dries like water. My car ran at 220 with out water wetter 200 with it . Great stuff.
I have factory tanks on a heavy duty 3 row core. It works well.
For the lazy old iron on this site: no.
Evans NPG is efficacious. It is based upon reducing superheated skin surface boiling adjacent to the combustion chamber utilizing nucleate boiling. This can near eliminate localized boiling and resultant 'black death' (aluminium thermal piston expansion/ sleeve scuffing -dead hole). With it you do not run a thermostat. Pessurization and temperature are meaningless when employing Evans NPG. It works.
Not really applicable in normally aspirated applications, save for certain off-roaders or esoteric military applications such as the recon teams/ MARSOC who use it.
Gentlemen thank you for your contributions, much appreciated
Quote from: 427heaven on July 03, 2020, 03:32:37 PM
For a street car fresh coolant, what ever is on sale is all that's needed. Check all cooling items are functioning as they should. High volume water pump, fan shroud, hoses, etc. I run a plate system eliminating the t-stat. you can get a pack of 4- hole sizes from 1/2. 5/8. 3/4. 1 inch we don't freeze too often so it works great with performance motors that need heat regulation. You change the hole size to fit your application... Works wonderful !
I ran the t-stat housing washer, specifically for high rev engines, in my race car. Bought them from Jeg's. Different sizes like 427 mentions.
Without anything there in place of the t-stat, the liquid will run to fast through the radiator and not have time to cool.
The EMP Stewart thermostats are great for street-driven cars. They are high flow design but do very well regulating the flow. I don't recommend the Mr. Gasket copy. Buy the real deal. I had the rubber seals cause one to hang open.
Quote from: 557 on July 03, 2020, 07:03:11 PM
Quote from: 427heaven on July 03, 2020, 03:32:37 PM
For a street car fresh coolant, what ever is on sale is all that's needed. Check all cooling items are functioning as they should. High volume water pump, fan shroud, hoses, etc. I run a plate system eliminating the t-stat. you can get a pack of 4- hole sizes from 1/2. 5/8. 3/4. 1 inch we don't freeze too often so it works great with performance motors that need heat regulation. You change the hole size to fit your application... Works wonderful !
. Didn't they used to call that a blanking plate or some such???
Just called water restrictor
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Water-Outlet-Restrictor-Kit,605.html
Roy
Plus one on Watter Wetter. Try Water Wetter. Looks like Kool Aid. Keep on a high shelf if young kids around.
You add this to water or antifreeze .
Quote from: Bigfoot on July 10, 2020, 01:00:22 PM
Plus one on Watter Wetter. Try Water Wetter. Looks like Kool Aid. Keep on a high shelf if young kids around.
You add this to water or antifreeze .
Water wetter isn't as effective when glycol is present. It works better in straight water. For best results, use in straight water. You can use it with antifreeze but it basically negates the advantage when doing so. Water wetter and water when spilled on the track will dry like water. Water and antifreeze when spilled on the track will not dry the same and stays slick.
Quote from: 69mach351w on July 09, 2020, 07:09:29 PM
Without anything there in place of the t-stat, the liquid will run to fast through the radiator and not have time to cool.
Not to start a stir, but although often stated, this is not correct. :o
Although a period of time is required for the transfer of heat from the coolant flow volume to the inner surfaces of the heat exchanger, there is more than ample time for this in most automotive executions with or without the thermostat restriction. Remember, if you slow the coolant down in the radiator, you've also slowed it down in the engine, therefore since the engine is in a constant heat production state then the offset to the theory of the water experiencing a greater temperature reduction upon leaving the radiator is that the water is going to have a greater heat gain upon entering the radiator, with the reverse with the coolant moving faster, within reason of course.
The function we are referring to here actually is the "restriction" being at the discharge from the engine makes the plumbing from this point back to the discharge side of the impeller the "hi-pressure side of the system, of variable pressure in excess of the cooling systems general "pressure rating" accepted as the pressure rating of the pressure cap which is the low pressure side of the system. Since the orifice restriction area remains relatively constant (particularly with simple restrictor) but the flow rate is variable, increasing with engine speed (R.P.M.) the intended result is an increased pressure sum with the increase of load/work done, as there is greater heat production, this increased pressure further resists the potential of localized boiling or hot spots particularly prevalent within the cylinder heads, simply by raising the coolants' boiling point. ;)
Now I've started trouble! ::)
Scott.
No it didnt start any trouble at all, other then I fell asleep a couple of times reading it. What we need is a thermodynamics engineer to explain how to optimize our cooling systems. As you stated most cars dont need to worry about any of this, their systems are optimum for casual street driving. Where the concern comes in is with modified engines and cars requiring a solution to rather simple problems but if they never have experienced these things it will become very frustrating for most. There is a formula to figure out some of these heat issues and can be complex if followed to a T. Big block or small block, horsepower, clutch fan, or pusher fan, or sucker fan or 3 core radiator maybe a 4 core or larger 2 core aluminum. I could write a book on some of it but I wont. Bottom line for most engines is a certain amount of flow put out by your pump and the driving you will usually be doing with it. If all things are relatively good with your engines, the disc properly sized with a couple of water wetter bottles in the radiator will cure MOST heat ailments.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on July 10, 2020, 02:26:02 PM
Quote from: Bigfoot on July 10, 2020, 01:00:22 PM
Plus one on Watter Wetter. Try Water Wetter. Looks like Kool Aid. Keep on a high shelf if young kids around.
You add this to water or antifreeze .
Water wetter isn't as effective when glycol is present. It works better in straight water. For best results, use in straight water. You can use it with antifreeze but it basically negates the advantage when doing so. Water wetter and water when spilled on the track will dry like water. Water and antifreeze when spilled on the track will not dry the same and stays slick.
That's good to know.
I rarely run straight water even though it makes a car run cooler than with antifreeze which perhaps is an eye opener to people that don't know that.
Water Wetter recommends that at least 15% antifreeze be present in street vehicles.
- Phillip
This thread is query concerning 'Evans waterless coolant'.
Evans NPG coolant (non-aqueous propylene glycol) and its employment is not rocket science, but it operates on completely different physics laws than water or ethlyene glycol and related additives. It can be easily understood by one simple reading.
Because it is neither water, ethelyne glycol (and related enhancers) based, most of the conventional 'wisdom' regarding OEM cooling system hardware, cooling and media behavior is nonsensical in relation to the OP's question.
Without knowing what it is, good-bad-or indifferent, we end up with a conflated attestation thread like this!
Quote from: propayne on July 10, 2020, 08:24:57 PM
Water Wetter recommends that at least 15% antifreeze be present in street vehicles.
- Phillip
No, all don't. Distilled water has less surface tension. It cools better but you have to run the wetter with it so you don't deal with corrosion. Inevitably the radiator will boil over little bit of coolant via the tube and I don't want the animals in it. The water wetter drys quickly and doesn't leave the slick residue.
Biggie- When you run on the road courses on the east coast does tech check to see if you are running coolant in your cars.? Cars are not allowed to run on any race tracks on the left coast with anti freeze... For obvious reasons it becomes a skating rink that is difficult to clean up. I have seen a few beat downs in the pits when someone didnt care to change out their coolant before getting on the track. >:(
So to sum it all up in a nutshell:
Water restrictor
Water wetter
H20
Quote from: The Going Thing on July 10, 2020, 11:20:02 PM
.................... you have to run the wetter with it so you don't deal with corrosion.
Note that although the Water Wetter product does aid in resisting corrosion, it dos not perform this task as well as the other more commonly recommended by the O.E.M.s coolants, and particularly in the bimetal engines (example: cast iron block w/ aluminum cylinder heads & intake) where we have witnessed greatly accelerated oxidation erosion effects for those not utilizing coolants. ;)
Scott.
Quote from: camp upshur on July 10, 2020, 09:03:25 PM
This thread is query concerning 'Evans waterless coolant'.
Evans NPG coolant (non-aqueous propylene glycol) and its employment is not rocket science, but it operates on completely different physics laws than water or ethlyene glycol and related additives. It can be easily understood by one simple reading.
Because it is neither water, ethelyne glycol (and related enhancers) based, most of the conventional 'wisdom' regarding OEM cooling system hardware, cooling and media behavior is nonsensical in relation to the OP's question.
Without knowing what it is, good-bad-or indifferent, we end up with a conflated attestation thread like this!
Fact- Evans Waterless Coolant. Waste of money. No restrictor plate. Use a high flow Thermostat like an EMP Stewart unit. 180 degree. We're not dealing in coolant theories. We're dealing in real world use.
Quote from: camp upshur on July 10, 2020, 09:03:25 PM
This thread is query concerning 'Evans waterless coolant'.
Evans NPG coolant (non-aqueous propylene glycol) and its employment is not rocket science, but it operates on completely different physics laws than water or ethlyene glycol and related additives. It can be easily understood by one simple reading.
Because it is neither water, ethelyne glycol (and related enhancers) based, most of the conventional 'wisdom' regarding OEM cooling system hardware, cooling and media behavior is nonsensical in relation to the OP's question.
Without knowing what it is, good-bad-or indifferent, we end up with a conflated attestation thread like this!
+1 LMAO
Gentlemen thank you very much for all this information, much appreciated