First you need to buy the good " double ribbed" oil filter .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/0O2nOS.jpg)
Then remove the gasket and tape to make sure nothing goes inside .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/SPanXT.jpg)
i used some chemichal paint remover to get it to metal .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/2SaTqz.jpg)
Then sanding and primer .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/924/20ew3O.jpg)
Fresh black satin paint .
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/V7IrJI.jpg)
Some light coating of yellow paint on the stamp
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/923/EWqudG.jpg)
and after few times , here you go :
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/AgCWgS.jpg)
Not perfect , but i think good for division 2 concours . I had hard time to stamp them right , i tried to roll the filter on the stamp blocked on a table , tried to have the filter fixed and stamping by hand , but either way it's complicated to have it straight or even the stamping in full shape , if somebody did it and got a better result please let me know how !
thank's to Charles for the stamps model.
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/800x600q90/922/ZEj9dz.jpg)
What a great job Chris! You are a talented craftsman indeed. They look awesome to me.
Very nice! Thank you for the post.
Where do you get the stamp?
Look very nice, are you selling them? Well done
You might try remounting the stamp on a rectangular pad as opposed to the round design.
Quote from: chris NOS on July 15, 2020, 12:36:39 PM
Not perfect , but i think good for division 2 concours . I had hard time to stamp them right , i tried to roll the filter on the stamp blocked on a table , tried to have the filter fixed and stamping by hand , but either way it's complicated to have it straight or even the stamping in full shape , if somebody did it and got a better result please let me know how !
If I may be so bold, just a quick thought, create a not to complicated fixture, of either wood or metal, that perhaps would consist of the threaded adapter for the filter to locate such firmly, and have a guide (flat) perpendicular to the filter's center line that could act as a back-stop to locate and maintain the hand stamp squarely as one rolls it across the filter exterior housing. still requiring some learning for proper results, but perhaps easing some of the technique responsibilities? :-\
Now, we could create a true "Rube-Goldberg" machine with motors & drive/turning rollers, holders and an ink roller but................... ::)
Scott.
Get my hands on the stamp for just a few minutes.....
Quote from: Coralsnake on July 15, 2020, 05:36:02 PM
You might try remounting the stamp on a rectangular pad as opposed to the round design.
Agreed a "squared" edge would help
Another option is to mount it on a board and roll the filter over the stamp.
do it as a transfer or have a vinyl template created. apply vinyl and spray painted the letters.
talk to a vinyl sign shop.
Quote from: EdwardGT350 on July 15, 2020, 09:39:04 PM
do it as a transfer or have a vinyl template created. apply vinyl and spray painted the letters.
talk to a vinyl sign shop.
If you do it that way it would likely turn out much better than originally applied and defeat the purpose - restoration. That would be fine for those lookign to build a car with no overspray, orange peel and other details = "better" than originally done.
Just something to consider.
To my eye, the printing looks just a bit sloppy, which is just how it should be. While trying to learn about screen printing on glass for a little project that I'm doing to replicate a Cobra radio, I came across a couple videos showing the process of printing on drinking glasses and bottles. They made a simple jig that allowed the glass to rotate as the ink was applied and likely replicates the process of printing on any kind of cylindrical shape. Might be worth the effort if you are going to make some more. I think 'screen printing on glass' was the YouTube search phrase that i used.
Brant might know the supplier of the repro filters. Wonder if anyone has approached them regarding making these?
Quote from: J_Speegle on July 15, 2020, 07:30:52 PM
Quote from: Coralsnake on July 15, 2020, 05:36:02 PM
You might try remounting the stamp on a rectangular pad as opposed to the round design.
Agreed a "squared" edge would help
Another option is to mount it on a board and roll the filter over the stamp.
definitly if i would order another stamp on internet i would go for squared , I tried to roll on it the filter but i got some shrinked version of the stamping ! i guess there's a way how to roll it to get it right , and then the weight of the filter that you need to hold a little and finally i gave up and and did it hand free ....
i m sure if somebody wants to spend enought time and maybe building a fixture to roll the filter straight and at the right speed it would get better result ...
Quote from: 6S1568 on July 15, 2020, 01:43:34 PM
What a great job Chris! You are a talented craftsman indeed. They look awesome to me.
thank you !
Great results Chris .
thank you ,
i think this is an original for reference :
(https://imagizer.imageshack.com/img922/9977/GrGzp4.jpg)
Great job Chris,
I tried this some years ago with a stamp I got from a Forum member and a reproduced filter with a very poor result,
The yellow paint smeared and the stamp looked awful.
Looked for the stamp but haven't found it yet.
thank you Bo, Me too i got realy poor results at beginning !! and i gave up before getting it 100% !
Quote from: countrysquire on July 16, 2020, 08:42:24 AM
To my eye, the printing looks just a bit sloppy, which is just how it should be. While trying to learn about screen printing on glass for a little project that I'm doing to replicate a Cobra radio, I came across a couple videos showing the process of printing on drinking glasses and bottles. .....
Looked into the same/similar process (not deep enough yet) for reproducing some other items, Around here they use the process for printing the designs and label on many wine bottles. One of the other issues since it your going to make them they should be as close to 100% as possible IMHO is choosing three or so dates that would reflect the time period these were used for both Mustangs and Shelby's so that you can recoup your costs. This is something often the big suppliers don't worry about and leave us with substandard products
Would this be the starting point for a 66, which would be painted blue along with the assembled blue (or has my CRS need calibration?)
Quote from: TJinSA on July 16, 2020, 05:06:55 PM
Would this be the starting point for a 66, which would be painted blue along with the assembled blue (or has my CRS need calibration?)
Don't believe this would be correct on a non-carry over. Believe the process likely changed with the color change. Ford pictures show the style discussed here on early 60's and included a shorter oil filter also for some of that time period. Fords painting instructions for the engines were pretty much the same for 66-70 and we have pictures of the paint process for 67-68 with the oil filters in place when the engine was painted
Jeff, we have had this discussion before in the past. The blue filters that I and others have seen smuggled out of the assembly plants (lunch pail parts) were already painted solid blue in the case of 66 and newer. They are painted much in the same way the NOS 65 black posted picture one was prior to install. I am skeptical that the oil filters were painted on the engine . Besides the fact that they came already painted from the vendor if they were put in place prior to being painted on the engine in the case of the small block the filter would at the very least be extremely hard to take off the first oil change if not run the risk of the filter being glued to the block after the paint dried. I assume instead a mask was employed as in other instances like the FE oil filter adapter area in place of the physical filter until the paint dried.The only engine painting procedure specification papers that I have seen were for 1970 and they did not mention painting the block with the oil filter in place on the engine that I recall.I think I sent you a copy of them in the past. Just my opinion on the subject until more definitive evidence is presented.
To address the items you mentioned. Yes I agree that they (the oil filters) arrived at the engine plant prepainted. This made things easier on the workers and plants especially on those applications where they could not be installed on the engine prior to painting like FE applications. Do recall a number of small block examples that have turned up over the years at shows and swap meets, removed from cars, with very visible two coats of paint (one peeling from the other or the visible change in texture and slight color where the surfaces closer to where they were attached to the engine as if the painter did take to the to cover all the surface since it was unneeded.
As to the paint instructions that made up one page of the engine assembly guides the text is pretty much boiler plate text copied from one year to another with few changes. One was the addition of the posted vacuum switches on the small block sheets beginning in 67. The text was sometimes specific (like cover 1" of the nipple for the heater hose) while in others (example oil filter) were more general worded to keep clear of paint from the mating surfaces of the oil filter. I see this being similar to not getting paint on the rear edge/flange of the block where the workers accomplished this by installing the engine plate and for manual transmissions on some applications the bell housing also and to keep paint off the flywheel and clutch assembly by installing those also. Don't think you could apply enough paint to glue the oil filter gasket to both the block and the filter all the way around and given the small gap between the two unless you really tried and the films don't indicate the painters had the time nor focused on that area any more than any other part of the engine during painting.
Realize that you may have not seen either of these or others but wanted to offer the following examples of the filters in place while the engines were being painted from factory films.
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/14/6-160720215428.jpeg)
Those two pictures help me understand your point of view.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on July 16, 2020, 08:50:34 PM
Jeff, we have had this discussion before in the past. The blue filters that I and others have seen smuggled out of the assembly plants (lunch pail parts) were already painted solid blue in the case of 66 and newer. They are painted much in the same way the NOS 65 black posted picture one was prior to install...
Bob, did the blue assembly line filters have information stamped on them like the black '65 discussed above? Based on Jeff's research, it sounds like this would have been painted over once installed on a 289/302, but not an FE.
Quote from: CharlesTurner on July 16, 2020, 09:50:29 AM
Brant might know the supplier of the repro filters. Wonder if anyone has approached them regarding making these?
The supplier of these red Rotunda marked oil filters (along with the gold and Autolite ones) currently cannot supply them. It's uncertain as to when we may be able to get more. I do believe we have some gold and Autolite ones remaining though.
I spoke to them many times about supplying a black stamped filter or just plain black one with the proper ribbing. They were not interested in doing them.
BTW, your filters look great, Chris!
Quote from: countrysquire on July 17, 2020, 08:57:54 AM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on July 16, 2020, 08:50:34 PM
Jeff, we have had this discussion before in the past. The blue filters that I and others have seen smuggled out of the assembly plants (lunch pail parts) were already painted solid blue in the case of 66 and newer. They are painted much in the same way the NOS 65 black posted picture one was prior to install...
Bob, did the blue assembly line filters have information stamped on them like the black '65 discussed above? Based on Jeff's research, it sounds like this would have been painted over once installed on a 289/302, but not an FE.
Yes there was in yellow ink but different then the 65. No it most likely would not be be painted over because it was located in the middle much like the 65 version and little or no paint in the area as Jeff described. I would be most concerned with the more visible details on a engine that are typically neglected before worrying about the nuance detail on a assemblyline oil filter . Icing on the cake for sure . Just make sure the cake is done right before putting icing on it IMHO . FYI The engine block color is what is most expected on a correct type/shape filter in the concours/DIV II or Trailered concours .
Quote from: Brant on July 17, 2020, 09:26:35 AM
Quote from: CharlesTurner on July 16, 2020, 09:50:29 AM
Brant might know the supplier of the repro filters. Wonder if anyone has approached them regarding making these?
The supplier of these red Rotunda marked oil filters (along with the gold and Autolite ones) currently cannot supply them. It's uncertain as to when we may be able to get more. I do believe we have some gold and Autolite ones remaining though.
I spoke to them many times about supplying a black stamped filter or just plain black one with the proper ribbing. They were not interested in doing them.
BTW, your filters look great, Chris!
Thank you Brant ! ;)