Well, for me, I had been hesitating painting the underside of the hood to body color as I kinda liked the matte black finish. The darker color sure hides a lot of the imperfections of the bonding of fiberglass to the steel structure. Once finished I have to say that I like the body color version better and it is now a bit more "original".
Drove it😁
Although not a Shelby but it is a 67 ;)
Still screwing with the carbs.
Brake booster on my 67 350
Purchased points from CJ Pony. Hopefully they are the right one's.
Will try to get it tuned next week!
Took it out for a relaxed smooth and easy and then violent drive.
Thumbs up to "violent"!
Looks great...
Just for comparison purposes, this is how the underside of the hood was painted prior to yesterday and painting body color.
Who made the hood the hood on your 67? I didn't notice any cuts for the oval air air cleaner in the structure.
To the best of my knowledge it is the original, but I haven't owned from new. This is on a GT350, and low serial number (#23) and is a steel hood base with fiberglass overlay.
Unfortunately too hot to drive a black non A/C car here in L.A. today,so I am using it to hold an early 70s single fin surfboard I am working on.Should be cooler here tomorrow,so I hope to use it"as it was intended to be used" then.... 8)
Today I pulled the plugs to see how things were working.
Quote from: 557 on July 19, 2020, 11:50:02 AM
Unfortunately too hot to drive a black non A/C car here in L.A. today,so I am using it to hold an early 70s single fin surfboard I am working on.Should be cooler here tomorrow,so I hope to use it"as it was intended to be used" then.... 8)
Black/black non-A/C cars, at least mine anyways, are not hitting the streets anytime soon in eastern TN....... I left early real early yesterday morning in one of my convertibles, to go to Cars and Coffee ..... by 7:15 I was already dripping..... not fun.
Is that a crack in the porcelin 2nd from left bottom row?
BIG week for my Shelby. It is a auto, it had 389's in it, could not go 65 without fear of loosing something in the driveline, Thus put 3:00 in it, MUCH BETTER! Adjusted the valves (many way loose), fixed vacuum leaks, (not even hooked up). The guy who I got it from must have been one of those guys who finger tightens all the bolts and never tightens them, when putting a car together, I have found so many loose bolts, including the carb to intake bolts, door bolts, interior panels, doors, etc. This week finally got it where it should be!
Drove it today and it is now a pleasure to drive.
I'm putting a new battery in my G.T.500. Since the car is not entirely stock (;)) I got a Motorcraft for it. Had to due a quick touch-upon the battery tray as some of the paint had flaked away. It will be back on the road shortly. Meanwhile, I take the G.T.350H out for any Shelby runs. It's nice to have backup! 8)
Today on #0036: nothing.
In the past 60 days I:
1) pulled the engine to change the rear main seal
2) replaced the water pump with one rebuilt by Jim Cowles
3) replaced the cam and lifters as it had a Howards Racing Cam "Boss 302 grind from the 70's. Now it is a repop 289 HiPo cam
4) replaced the timing chain and both crank and cam sprockets
5) installed my possibly original Cobra Kit T-pan. Well the cast-in part number is correct.
6) Replaced the clutch disk and pressure plate. It's got to come out though. The pedal effort had at least doubled
7) installed it with new motor mounts. One original one was bad as was the worn repop one.
Quote from: roddster on July 19, 2020, 02:39:07 PM
Today on #0036: nothing.
In the past 60 days I:
1) pulled the engine to change the rear main seal
2) replaced the water pump with one rebuilt by Jim Cowles
3) replaced the cam and lifters as it had a Howards Racing Cam "Boss 302 grind from the 70's. Now it is a repop 289 HiPo cam
4) replaced the timing chain and both crank and cam sprockets
5) installed my possibly original Cobra Kit T-pan. Well the cast-in part number is correct.
6) Replaced the clutch disk and pressure plate. It's got to come out though. The pedal effort had at least doubled
7) installed it with new motor mounts. One original one was bad as was the worn repop one.
So, not much? 😳
Wow, that's great. Congrats!
Roddster, you're my hero! Nice days work, it must not be as hot where you are as here in SC today.
Quote from: roddster on July 19, 2020, 02:39:07 PM
3) replaced the cam and lifters as it had a Howards Racing Cam "Boss 302 grind from the 70's. Now it is a repop 289 HiPo cam
roddster,
Where did you source your cam from? I'll be needing one for my '66 in the near future. Thanks.
Drove 2339 to cars and coffee this morning to schmooze with the boys. She it running great after Drew rebuilt my carburetor.
Greek
Quote from: The Going Thing on July 19, 2020, 10:47:33 AM
Who made the hood the hood on your 67? I didn't notice any cuts for the oval air air cleaner in the structure.
GT350's didn't have the oval air cleaner assembly so no "notch" in the rear of the steel hood inner structure like the GT 500's got (especially being the car discussed is such an early car) -
Although there were some GT 350's that did get the notched inner structure - they seem to be later in the sequence almost like if we notch them all it won't matter??? Nice work "roddster" and "greekz" drive 'em and show the world!
Quote from: 67 GT350 on July 19, 2020, 12:16:56 PM
BIG week for my Shelby. It is a auto, it had 389's in it, could not go 65 without fear of loosing something in the driveline, Thus put 3:00 in it, MUCH BETTER! Adjusted the valves (many way loose), fixed vacuum leaks, (not even hooked up). The guy who I got it from must have been one of those guys who finger tightens all the bolts and never tightens them, when putting a car together, I have found so many loose bolts, including the carb to intake bolts, door bolts, interior panels, doors, etc. This week finally got it where it should be!
Drove it today and it is now a pleasure to drive.
I've had a car (not a Shelby) like that too, very disconcerting but so much better once everything is torqued to spec's.
On to Monday now. Busted fan shroud that led to discovering a compromised motor mount.
Yet another "anomaly" learned about the '67 cars with their unique small block motor mount apparently made out of unobtanium.
Good news bad news situation... Hipo motor mounts are pricey little buggers thats the bad news. Good news is you can head down to your local auto parts house and score some standard motor mounts for 20 bucks apiece until you find, or want to pony up for an original pair. Many millions of cars are still running around on standard mounts. They can handle 400 hp for a very long time.
Cam: It is in the NPD catalog. The brand is Elgin. The solid lifters in the NPD catalog also had no brand shown.
Motor mounts: For the 67's, aren't they all the same? Nothing special I noticed, even with the C7 numbered original.
And, unrelated: Then if I was to put dual quads or 3-2bbls on, I'd have to notch my metal underlined hood to get the oval air cleaner to fit, right? That ain't gonna happen.
Here is the skinny on the motor mounts.
In 1967, Ford designed the Mustang to hold both the small and big block engines.
They developed 1 frame mount and 2 motor mounts. After that, they went to 1 style motor mount and then the small and big blocks had different frame mounts.
I am now a wealth of knowledge on this in the past 24 hours.
Thanks Bob.
Used 67 SB insulators on Ebay:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1967-Mustang-Shelby-GT350-Cougar-289-motor-mounts-insulators-small-block-67/184111719907?hash=item2adde9e5e3%3Ag%3AafkAAOSwlTBeD0uj&LH_ItemCondition=4
Thanks for the link. I suppose the question is how much do you want to trust 54 year old motor mounts vs recent manufactured items?
QuoteThanks for the link. I suppose the question is how much do you want to trust 54 year old motor mounts vs recent manufactured items?
There are no present correctly fitting aftermarket insulators for the original 67 frame mounts... Your best option for reliability is to switch to 68 frame mounts - then lots of new aftermarket insulators will fit.
Kurt.
Please describe your issue with "ill-fitting". The ones I bought fought a little, but not impossible to go make me want to go to the 68 mounts.
Missed the center bolt by 3/8". I would suspect that if you left the frame mount and the top motor mount bolts loose and put the center bolt in, it would go, but then tightening everything up would surely put it in a bind. Not for me.
Had a nice long drive today, taking car to get a few things done to it.
I picked up my 289 HiPo engine from the machine shop today!
Yes sir, and I had to sleeve all cylinders. Found the motor to be 40 over during the year down, so I had no other option. Guys did a good job. Now it's time to put it back together.
Quote from: greekz on July 19, 2020, 09:18:40 PM
Drove 2339 to cars and coffee this morning to schmooze with the boys. She it running great after Drew rebuilt my carburetor.
Greek
I'm sending 2597's carb to Drew as well.....
Looked at #1609 in the garage, 96 degrees in the shade!
looked at a picture that I was just emailed as some work has just been completed and its time to ship out west
Quote from: Jbrooks on July 22, 2020, 01:43:55 AM
I picked up my 289 HiPo engine from the machine shop today!
Jbrooks,
Is yours a stock rebuild? Which cam are you going to use? I may also be looking a sleeving all eight holes as my original block sat outside in a wheel barrel for a number of years before we got the car back in 1978.
Finally had it out for a drive.Restored both heads,a job that require small hands. 8)
Next up is to put better tires on,love the look of the repros,not to drive with them!
Drove it.After a lengthy hiatus(by my standards) the weather in L.A. finally got cool enough for me to get the car out.Two things made themselves clear right from the jump:1.It is still "quite"loud....2.It is also still "quite"fun to drive.Something else made itself clear a little later:It is "quite" fuel inefficient :'( Oh well,2 outta 3 ain't bad....I think I'll keep it.... ;)
Quote from: S7MS427 on July 22, 2020, 01:06:17 PM
Quote from: Jbrooks on July 22, 2020, 01:43:55 AM
I picked up my 289 HiPo engine from the machine shop today!
Jbrooks,
Is yours a stock rebuild? Which cam are you going to use? I may also be looking a sleeving all eight holes as my original block sat outside in a wheel barrel for a number of years before we got the car back in 1978.
S7MS427
I wish it was a stock rebuild. I bought my GT350 6 years ago, and I noticed that it started smoking under load. Not knowing the details of the motor, I found that it had already been bored 40 over; so I had to re-sleeve the entire block back to standard bore (which I'm happy with how it came out). Without that said, it's been great verifying that all my K-Code internal components are all there.
I wish you the best of luck on your re-build. I couldn't imagine having a K-code block setting in a wheel barrel outside. I know it was different times, but wow. Take care!
Bought more NOS parts!
Thanks to Dave M. I finally got hold of a HiPo crank sprocket and another stamped gas filter. Just stamped two alternator rear housings (one spare). If you wonder who snagged the NOS hubcap ...
Add pic -- well, because.
Quote from: Jbrooks on July 23, 2020, 04:07:31 PM
I couldn't imagine having a K-code block setting in a wheel barrel outside. I know it was different times, but wow.
Yeah, different times indeed. When we picked up the car, the previous owner remarked "I don't know if you want this or not but you can have it." He didn't have to ask me twice. Didn't know for sure if it was the original short block or not but of course I said yes. Glad I did.
I replaced the solenoid after discussing it with my Home Slice and "Gators" husband who is also my Home Slice in addition to triangulating the discussion with "Gators" father in law over a beer and a burger and a hot dog and a cup cake in 90 degree heat.
Quote from: Bigfoot on July 25, 2020, 08:53:42 PM
I replaced the solenoid after discussing it with my Home Slice and "Gators" husband who is also my Home Slice in addition to triangulating the discussion with "Gators" father in law over a beer and a burger and a hot dog and a cup cake in 90 degree heat.
Glad it worked out Brother
I'm finally getting back to working on the restoration after moving and building a garage. I've had to move the rear brake bracket on the floor pan ( boy that was a pain). And interior trim.
I removed the gt350 emblem, from the slanted grill, that doesn't belong there. Looks better.
Quote from: Shelby4Life on October 15, 2020, 09:38:51 PM
I removed the gt350 emblem, from the slanted grill, that doesn't belong there. Looks better.
Good for you! Always looks better when it's correct.
I dropped off the rear housing and 27 other crusty parts for blasting. Items too big for my home blast cabinet.
Quote from: oldcanuck on July 19, 2020, 12:10:36 PM
Quote from: 557 on July 19, 2020, 11:50:02 AM
Unfortunately too hot to drive a black non A/C car here in L.A. today,so I am using it to hold an early 70s single fin surfboard I am working on.Should be cooler here tomorrow,so I hope to use it"as it was intended to be used" then.... 8)
Black/black non-A/C cars, at least mine anyways, are not hitting the streets anytime soon in eastern TN....... I left early real early yesterday morning in one of my convertibles, to go to Cars and Coffee ..... by 7:15 I was already dripping..... not fun.
Pulled the GT350 out of the back of the garage yesterday. It's now the perfect time in E TN to start enjoying. After building some oil pressure and priming the fuel bowls, she fired right up. Dusting and cleaning today, and maybe a short blast this afternoon, but for sure tomorrow. Taking my '66 Duetto to my buddies museum for winter display this morning, and my '66 L72 is going to the guru's shop later in the week for some odds and ends. Aaaaah fall..... love that fuel smell in the cool morning air.
Well, for me it was a repair. After a morning "romp", i had to replace the clutch actuating rod. It was together ... barely ... when i made it back to my shop, but it broke completely taking it off. New one installed with bracing after cooldown.
Eyed it lovingly. ;)
Replaced some old soft cracked rubber front end bushings with new black polyurethane and added 3 gallons of 110 octane. Now I'm ready for a couple more items on my list.
Well, actually the date was 11/13/2020: Picked up the clutch pressure plate and the relined friction disk for #0036. I'll put it in this coming spring. It was the replacement I put it way back when to stop the clutch actuating bar from constantly bending.
Surge Friction in So.Holland Illinois did the work. They've been in business forever, and advertise in Hemmings Motor News.
My '67 sat and watched me change the engine, trans and diff fluids on my '17 GT350R and then replace all 4 rotors with new pads. 2 more days of spirited track days put an end to my Carbotech pads.
Now that that is done...............time to get the '67 out for a drive.
Took ours out for breakfast this morning. It's pretty good when you live in Montana and can drive your Shelby on November 29th! Especially considering there was a foot of snow on the ground a month ago......
Drove it like I stole it.....Pretty sure that some of the folks "outdoor dining"(it was lunch time) wish they weren't.... 8)
Started wrestling with a small oil drip on one of the brass fittings from the oil press gauge line going into the block extension. I'm quite sure it would be a lot easier to get to if I removed the oil filter..... but no, I am determined I can get it as is even with my big hands ! While I was down there, I noticed a header flange bolt trying to back out a little, so that will be next as soon as I can find my 7mm allen wrench.
I picked up my rebuilt 428 long block today. After looking at it for 19 years, finally got it redone. Went with a nice roller cam setup, the stock dual quad intake, and scored a rare SSS finned COBRA oil pan to boot.
Drove it with my kid.....yesterday.
Quote from: BeaterGT500 on December 24, 2020, 01:14:04 AM
I picked up my rebuilt 428 long block today. After looking at it for 19 years, finally got it redone. Went with a nice roller cam setup, the stock dual quad intake, and scored a rare SSS finned COBRA oil pan to boot.
Are you under the misconception that the finned aluminum big block Cobra oil pan was a original Shelby item? Branda has been selling the creation they cam up with (not Shelby) for 40 years. It is still available through Branda . You may think it is cool which is no harm no foul but it is not rare . http://www.cobranda.com/bigblcooilpa.html
Trying to figure out WTF I'm supposed to do with these metal tabs that I got from the DMV today to go with my recommissioned California black license plate ,I picked the plate up from a vendor on eBay recently and it starts with a U which is correct for a 1967 California plate .It also came with a 67 tag on it ,when I took it to the DMV they told me to keep the sticker on it,which I kind of like any way but don't want these metal tabs hanging off my plate.
Just put the sticker over the old ones.That's what I did when I got my original plates reassigned to my car about 10 years ago(it had dropped off the grid after a long nap)btw that tab thing must be a new development,dmv didn't give me one :'(.If you like the 67 sticker you could try and work it off carefully with a razor blade(and maybe heat?)for "future reference "I suppose.Good luck.
I ran recommissioned black plates on my '67 for about 3 years and did not use the metal tabs. I carefully removed the 1967 sticker and placed the correct month/year stickers on the plates as I do with my 1966, that has its original plates. I do not think the registration card indicates recommissioned plates. Never had a problem, also never was stopped by police. Friends of mine have done the same. I do not think there is anyway for law enforcement to tell the difference. It is up to you.
Greek
Though small I FINALLY got the correct style ammeter terminal block installed. It's one of those things that's been bugging me for years... thanks JD! I feel much better now.
Having had some experience with wiring on things that move, it's curious why SA chose the block they did and installed it the way they did. Those guards typically act as keepers for the conductors so in my view it's the wrong part installed incorrectly. But what do I know.
At what point does a hobby cross the line into mental illness (rhetorical)? I think I must be there.
Hmmm, I see in the photo that solenoid could use a little more cleaning, and there's some dust just below it, and...
Happy Holidays all!
Quote from: 68krrrr on December 24, 2020, 01:27:27 PM
Trying to figure out WTF I'm supposed to do with these metal tabs that I got from the DMV today to go with my recommissioned California black license plate ,I picked the plate up from a vendor on eBay recently and it starts with a U which is correct for a 1967 California plate .It also came with a 67 tag on it ,when I took it to the DMV they told me to keep the sticker on it,which I kind of like any way but don't want these metal tabs hanging off my plate.
Cut a fridge magnet to the correct shape and stick the new sticker to it.. Place it over the 67 sticker..
Quote from: DGSOH on December 24, 2020, 03:36:50 PM
Though small I FINALLY got the correct style ammeter terminal block installed. It's one of those things that's been bugging me for years... thanks JD! I feel much better now.
Having had some experience with wiring on things that move, it's curious why SA chose the block they did and installed it the way they did. Those guards typically act as keepers for the conductors so in my view it's the wrong part installed incorrectly. But what do I know.
At what point does a hobby cross the line into mental illness (rhetorical)? I think I must be there.
Hmmm, I see in the photo that solenoid could use a little more cleaning, and there's some dust just below it, and...
Happy Holidays all!
Do you have the amber circuit board looking material insulator underneath the early terminal block like was done originally?I can't tell from the picture angle.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 24, 2020, 06:46:38 PM
Do you have the amber circuit board looking material insulator underneath the early terminal block like was done originally?I can't tell from the picture angle.
lol Yes I do. I had a feeling you might bring that up. In fact it's the insulator I was specifically thanking JD for.
And for the benefit of others, there's a really good reason the insulator is there - don't install one of these without it would be my recommendation.
Thanks Bob! And I hope you and yours have a great holiday.
Quote from: DGSOH on December 24, 2020, 06:55:16 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 24, 2020, 06:46:38 PM
Do you have the amber circuit board looking material insulator underneath the early terminal block like was done originally?I can't tell from the picture angle.
lol Yes I do. I had a feeling you might bring that up. In fact it's the insulator I was specifically thanking JD for.
And for the benefit of others, there's a really good reason the insulator is there - don't install one of these without it would be my recommendation.
Thanks Bob! And I hope you and yours have a great holiday.
Can you let us know where you sourced both of these parts thanks
Quote from: 67gt500 on December 24, 2020, 04:26:23 PM
Quote from: 68krrrr on December 24, 2020, 01:27:27 PM
Trying to figure out WTF I'm supposed to do with these metal tabs that I got from the DMV today to go with my recommissioned California black license plate ,I picked the plate up from a vendor on eBay recently and it starts with a U which is correct for a 1967 California plate .It also came with a 67 tag on it ,when I took it to the DMV they told me to keep the sticker on it,which I kind of like any way but don't want these metal tabs hanging off my plate.
Huh might try that thanks
Cut a fridge magnet to the correct shape and stick the new sticker to it.. Place it over the 67 sticker..
Quote from: 68krrrr on December 25, 2020, 12:16:07 AM
Quote from: DGSOH on December 24, 2020, 06:55:16 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on December 24, 2020, 06:46:38 PM
Do you have the amber circuit board looking material insulator underneath the early terminal block like was done originally?I can't tell from the picture angle.
lol Yes I do. I had a feeling you might bring that up. In fact it's the insulator I was specifically thanking JD for.
And for the benefit of others, there's a really good reason the insulator is there - don't install one of these without it would be my recommendation.
Thanks Bob! And I hope you and yours have a great holiday.
Can you let us know where you sourced both of these parts thanks
Your later car does not use those early car parts if that is what you are thinking.
Thanks Bob
I spent enough time to kill three rechargeable batteries on my Makita cordless drill with a brass wire brush on it, cleaning surface rust off cast iron parts for refinishing. Bellhousing, strut rods, spindles, coil springs, motor mounts, steering shaft, clutch fork. Fun times in the 40 degree shop.
Just paid a bill for some work done on mine. lol
This arrived, so I'm a step closer. :)
Quote from: csheff on January 05, 2021, 11:47:18 AM
Just paid a bill for some work done on mine. lol
What did you break now?
Well,yesterday,I drove it in fairly heavy rain for the first time in years.God that was an unpleasant experience.Thing wanted to lose traction every time I released the clutch.Not fun...... >:(
Drove it.
Decided to diagnose the seat belt light.
Discovered a defective part.
Ordered replacement part.
Hello Everyone,
I went over to the Shelby American Collection in Boulder and started 0100 up to circulate the fluids for a couple of minutes. It is always nice to go over there and see the amazing collection of cars.
Thanks,
Eric
Hit the back roads to see how the car was running. Evidently, pretty good!
Quote from: BeaterGT500 on January 04, 2021, 11:27:10 PM
I spent enough time to kill three rechargeable batteries on my Makita cordless drill with a brass wire brush on it, cleaning surface rust off cast iron parts for refinishing. Bellhousing, strut rods, spindles, coil springs, motor mounts, steering shaft, clutch fork. Fun times in the 40 degree shop.
Kinda like this!?
It was 60 glorious degrees in E TN today ! Not the typical Feb. winter day for sure.
Roads were dry....... Yup, you guessed it, burned up about an eighth of a tank !
Dip coated the pedals yesterday as part of refurbishing and installing a correct/original 67 pedal set. Video came out nice.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W35EYNtImjI
First bath of the year ! 66 glorious degrees in E TN...... 2 applications of C2 Crystal ceramic coating..... tomorrow, we ride !
Since I'm replating/restoring every original nut and bolt, where possible, on my car I could post every day. Recently, I've had great success with the Caswell Plating system.
Quote from: Bossbill on March 09, 2021, 11:56:53 AM
Since I'm replating/restoring every original nut and bolt, where possible, on my car I could post every day. Recently, I've had great success with the Caswell Plating system.
Boy, if you have not already, a thread on your Caswell plating system would be fantastic.
I had asked about the Eastwood system a few months back and didn't get much information.
Just drove it for the first time since installing my rebuilt Hipo
a few laps around the neighborhood ,seems great. Now just need to find
out the best GL4 gear oil to change in the 4 speed trans.
Found the LH air vent. Control cable broken, may be able to fix it. But will probably buy new cable with metal, rather than plastic sleeve.
Since I'm replating/restoring every original nut and bolt, where possible, on my car I could post every day. Recently, I've had great success with the Caswell Plating system.
That really looks good. I need to check that out.
Quote from: 2112 on March 09, 2021, 12:42:08 PM
Boy, if you have not already, a thread on your Caswell plating system would be fantastic.
I had asked about the Eastwood system a few months back and didn't get much information.
Here is a good set of videos on the process. Other than wanting to blow himself to kingdom come by washing in gasoline, he has good advice.
https://youtu.be/hTupOgImpWo
The trickiest part is getting the amperage right. I don't calculate, I look at bubbles.
The use of the brightener is discussed a little, but you need to refresh often.
I use a vent booth, digital power supply, acid cartridges in a 3M mask, eye protection and many, many gloves.
I think the use of a media blaster (I use round glass beads) is critical.
So is removing the old coating with muriatic acid.
Clean, clean, clean, clean.
This can be an extremely frustrating process. But after you get it, it's great.
Expect to spend around $500 for the above not including the vent booth.
If you think after all this you still think we need a thread on this topic let me know.
Took it for a spirited romp and then rested my latest period accessory on it .Circa 1968 solid balsa transitional era surfboard.Damn thing even almost matches the steering wheel.
Quote from: shelbyhertz66 on March 09, 2021, 12:51:06 PM
Just drove it for the first time since installing my rebuilt Hipo
a few laps around the neighborhood ,seems great. Now just need to find
out the best GL4 gear oil to change in the 4 speed trans.
I've been using Redline MT90 in my original 66 T-10 for many years.
Yesterday I rolled back the bubble, dropped in a battery and fired it up. I let it run for 20 minutes.
Today, I'm dropping the trans to replace the clutch and pressure plate with one that I can push the pedal down on so I can hold it down for more than a few seconds.
Pulled and rebuilt steering box this week. Went pretty smooth but it's a lot of work getting the long shaft box in and out with engine in place. Drives night and day difference - should have done it sooner.
My car has a T pan and we had to pull the motor to get the steering box out. It is a lot of work.
I put in a Motorcraft water temp sender. Waiting for my alternator and fan belts from Marti.
Put the engine mounts on.
While not a 67 the weather warmed up so I could paint the radiator for my SCJ Mach1. Been waiting. Gary
Quote from: 2112 on March 09, 2021, 12:42:08 PM
Boy, if you have not already, a thread on your Caswell plating system would be fantastic.
I had asked about the Eastwood system a few months back and didn't get much information.
I started one here:
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=24385.msg152037#msg152037
Quote from: Bossbill on March 13, 2021, 10:46:34 AM
Quote from: 2112 on March 09, 2021, 12:42:08 PM
Boy, if you have not already, a thread on your Caswell plating system would be fantastic.
I had asked about the Eastwood system a few months back and didn't get much information.
I started one here:
https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=24385.msg152037#msg152037
Thanks!
Missed a 1st to 2nd shift(those hurst comp plus shifters are a bitch if you're not payin attention)....All that torque came to the rescue however when I "selected" 4th..... ::)
Took mine for a little cruise
Made a run to the grocery store. Then while we were loading in the car some guy in a '67 289 Mustang Convertible stopped to check out the Shelby and talk for a while. His had been in the family since almost new.
Spring commissioning last weekend, a little driving today... in all it's winter grime and bias-ply glory.
There was a young boy, excuse me, person, in a modern 5.0 Mustang next to me at a stop light. He appeared quite interested... as was the adult driver. Future SAAC members perhaps.
A great day, a great drive, looking forward to more.
Spring oil service, and while the oil filter was off, I had enough room to replace the oil pressure fittings on the end of the extension, hopefully removing that pesky little drip from my to do list. I guess I'll find out tomorrow as I'm going to give the Permatex thread sealant the full 24 hour cure time. It will also give me time in the morning to find a nylon or fiber drain plug gasket, since I didn't like the look of my old copper washer. I think nylon or fiber would be more suited to the steel plug and aluminum T pan.
DGSOH, looks fantastic.
Quote from: 2112 on April 04, 2021, 07:25:44 PM
DGSOH, looks fantastic.
Yes - looks really good! (Hope to see it in person this year.)
Quote from: 2112 on April 04, 2021, 07:25:44 PM
DGSOH, looks fantastic.
Quote from: JD on April 04, 2021, 09:32:53 PM
Yes - looks really good! (Hope to see it in person this year.)
Thanks! Even after 34+ years I'm still amazed every time I see it... especially outside on a sunny day.
Met some friends Sunday morning for our weekly gathering at the Upper Village in Montecito, CA. Another beautiful morning along the Central Coast.
This arrived today!
^^^ very nice!
Thanks man. One piece at a time.
That thing looks practically naked without a car attached to it... :D
Quote from: Shelby4Life on June 19, 2021, 05:21:00 PM
Thanks man. One piece at a time.
Just like Johnny Cash ?
Finally got wheels and tires bolted on.
Pick up the engine Tuesday. (That'll bring that front down!)
Big bad 428 certainly will hammer it down. Good luck with the installation.
Or a stroked 482 tunnelport!
We took #906 (1967 GT500) out Saturday the 10th with a few friends with various make cars on a drive from Mount Vernon, WA. to Winthrop, WA., across the North Cross Highway for a beautiful drive. About 275 miles roundtrip. One of the most beautiful drives you'll encounter. Mountain passes about 5700 feet in elevation, light traffic, 3 large dams on the Skagit River that produce power for the City of Seattle and plenty of pull-outs to take in the views. Oh, cold beer at each end of the drive also!
Been on that drive many times.
And yes, you're right! Stunning.
Liberty Bell and Silver Star.
Went to a cruise in with a 68 & 66.... 8)
Quote from: Wedgeman on July 12, 2021, 12:28:25 AM
Went to a cruise in with a 68 & 66.... 8)
Looking good!! ;D
Well you also got them in chronological order from left to right......66,67,68. That took some time.
Saturday night I went to a cruise at a local mall...
Quote from: Hov on July 12, 2021, 01:50:14 AM
Well you also got them in chronological order from left to right......66,67,68. That took some time.
You may want to look again .........
#23 is now tucked away inside of the Aerovault due to my clutch foot having to be operated on (arthritis) this coming Thursday. Hope is that it will emerge again for the MCA Mustang Round-Up in Oklahoma over Labor Day Weekend. Until then, it was fresh fuel, battery tender and detail.
Quote from: nwfire on July 11, 2021, 11:33:47 PM
We took #906 (1967 GT500) out Saturday the 10th with a few friends with various make cars on a drive from Mount Vernon, WA. to Winthrop, WA., across the North Cross Highway for a beautiful drive. About 275 miles roundtrip. One of the most beautiful drives you'll encounter. Mountain passes about 5700 feet in elevation, light traffic, 3 large dams on the Skagit River that produce power for the City of Seattle and plenty of pull-outs to take in the views. Oh, cold beer at each end of the drive also!
If you have any video please post!
Took the battery out to have looked at
Since I have a 68 I haven't followed this thread much, if any, but having just read most of the posts I really like the context. Not everything we do on a "routine" basis involves major investment of time and money but can be a big part of our overall enjoyment of the cars. Kind of like the "grocery getter" thread.
Ted
Been too darn hot to do anything, so I finished scanning all of my decent 1967 GT350/500 35mm photos I've taken going back to 1982, but mostly taken in from 1995 to present, including SAAC conventions, shows, etc. I posted them on the 1967 Shelby Research Group page on Facebook for now. I did not take many photos of Shelby ID tags, so it's up to people to ID their cars and provide their number and information. Was able to provide a pretty decent photo of a 68 GT500 on track at SAAC 22 to an owner.
I was not happy with the paint on this 67 Shelby so today I decided to try going over it with clay bar
using an automotive wash soap diluted with water in a spray bottle to keep the surface slippery for the clay bar.
The paint always had a rough feel to it when you ran your hand over it. It was not hard to do and what
an amazing difference. Then buffed it with a fine finishing product and waxed. The paint now feels slick to the touch.
I really doubted the clay bars worth but I learned something new. The whole process improved it about 40%
Dave
Bolted on headers, and will try to install with them.
I have been assured it will work!?
Guess we'll find out shortly.
I cursed at it.
I can't remember if it was after the clutch went out and before I burned my hand on the exhaust or after I burned my hand. I just hope I didn't make it even more mad at me.
Maybe I should have sent it a strongly worded press release instead? Either way, damage done.
I'd just repaired a u-joint and went for, shall we say, a spirited 20 mile run, you know - for test purposes. Fortunately the clutch went out on my last downshift before turning into the driveway and managed to roll all the way down and into the barn so I guess it's not totally heartless... could have been stuck somewhere.
Arghhhh!
Quote from: Lfino on July 28, 2021, 11:30:44 PM
Bolted on headers, and will try to install with them.
I have been assured it will work!?
Guess we'll find out shortly.
It has been a while since your post and I am curious if you found that you were assured correctly. ;)
Installed my new Dead Nuts On reproduction driveshaft!
Jon
Finally got the engine installed.
Quote from: Lfino on August 27, 2021, 01:41:52 AM
Finally got the engine installed.
Great, did it go in with the headers on or did you have to take them off?
(rotated)
I was told with those particular headers (Stans), they would go right in.
Other than removing the gas pedal assembly, there was enough room for a thin towel on each shock tower!
I did raise the rear of the car.
Toploader is now in place.
Now that the engine is in it's final resting place, a quick look around found there is not enough room for the upper nut of the idler arm bracket. Headers too close. Now I will have to tweak my brand new ceramic coated headers!! DAMN!!
Stan has a lot of enablers around who frankly don't know WTF they are talking about. I do admit that he does beautiful work but the Hookers are the only ones that I know of that fit out of the box. How well any particular set of his headers fit is really a crap shoot.
Admittedly I do have a set of his 180° headers on my Pantera and they fit well but having said that, they got coated after they were fit to the car AND there isn't ANYTHING on this planet that is a more difficult fit for headers that I can think of then a '67 GT500.
Even so, on a 67 GT500, you need to get them uncoated. Then you have to "fit" them with a hammer since you are going to have tubes right up against obstructions that you could not have otherwise predicted.
Mine (Hookers) have strange dimples in them here and there just because of this situation.
Once you have them installed with "adequate" clearances, THEN AND ONLY THEN, you send them out to be coated.
This subject has been discussed HERE before. Where you get your information from and from WHOM is very important and significant. We are not the automotive Q-anon here to carry false information and conspiracy theories created by a 15 year old he-she sex performer from Singapore.
Most of us here are not geniuses. Our knowledge base comes from a VERY LONG history of learning largely from the School of Hard Knocks. Lots of times (but not always) we try to help others avoid the pitfalls that we had and share our bumps of knowledge to help you avoid that needlessly. Agreed though that there are many doubters and in that case there are those that follow the false prophets and get cast into the pits.
My advice at this point is get a nice heavy hammer and start dinging up your nice shiny headers. Sorry being the one to bring the bad news. I feel your pain. :(
Just a dash of frustration showing through.
I'll handle it and move on to the next.
Always have, always will. DAMN!!
Got tired of the exhaust leak, put on a new header gasket.
Quote from: jguyer on September 05, 2021, 09:11:30 PM
Got tired of the exhaust leak, put on a new header gasket.
This time remember to tighten down the bolts! :o
Quote from: shelbydoug on September 05, 2021, 09:39:14 PM
Quote from: jguyer on September 05, 2021, 09:11:30 PM
Got tired of the exhaust leak, put on a new header gasket.
This time remember to tighten down the bolts! :o
Used to do that every spring. Had the perfect 7/16" wrench, but I lost it. So I let it go, until it drove me crazy.
Quote from: jguyer on September 05, 2021, 11:39:33 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on September 05, 2021, 09:39:14 PM
Quote from: jguyer on September 05, 2021, 09:11:30 PM
Got tired of the exhaust leak, put on a new header gasket.
This time remember to tighten down the bolts! :o
Used to do that every spring. Had the perfect 7/16" wrench, but I lost it. So I let it go, until it drove me crazy.
I've never found a way to permanently keep the header bolts tight. Best to go with a inexpensive Mr.Gasket header gasket and check them frequently.
Some bolts never need re-tightening, others constant re-tightening. I have no doubts that there is an unpublished formula that involves the bolt location, your relative's ages and condition of your back, whether or not the car has new paint on it's fenders and the distance to the Earth's center of gravity that exactly explains it?
Found this behind the license plate of my 67 original paint 2382
Ran the fuel lines from the tank to carbs!
Tomorrow will clamp them in place.
Why does everything take so long?
Cleaned up the car after driving back from the car show. Put on the lift, found the oil filter adapter gasket leaking and ps pump leaking from the big nut on the back. I'll try tightening it up. As for the gasket ordered a new one.
Just hit 500 miles on my rebuilt hipo so I decided nothing catastrophic was probably going
to happen and it was probably time to adjust the valves , a pain to do it hot but
I guess that's the most accurate
I noticed the right rear brake was locking up even with light pedal pressure, so I removed the wheel and drum and found a light covering of gear oil over everything including the friction surfaces. Time for new axle seals!
The old seals were difficult to remove but once out they appear to be a leather seal rather than rubber and have embossed on them what appears to be a Ford logo that has been subsequently obscured for some reason - both sides the same. I wonder if these were the original factory seals?
Just replaced the rear axle seals Saturday on our 68 GT/CS. They probably were the originals. They are marked C7OW-1177-L 7-4 N.S. with a rectangular FoMoCo with red sealer around the circumference of the seal. N.S. = National Seal, National used red sealer, Chicago Rawhide ( CR ) used green. I don't think your seals would have been assembly line seals as the oval FoMoCo has been xx out. I have seen this in the past on parts produced by an OEM supplier but with the car company's logo xx or ground off in an OEM box. Example, Bendix disc pads with the FORD logo xx out in a Bendix box. And just not only on Ford parts but other car companies also. Most likely they were manufactured to be assembly line or service parts that ended up being over runs by National or that Ford didn't need at that time and they couldn't be sold to other part suppliers with the FoMoCo logo so they xx it out IMO.
Rodney
Does washing the mud off from driving in the rain on dirt roads count?
Quote from: KR500 on September 24, 2021, 04:30:33 PM
Just replaced the rear axle seals Saturday on our 68 GT/CS. They probably were the originals. They are marked C7OW-1177-L 7-4 N.S. with a rectangular FoMoCo with red sealer around the circumference of the seal. N.S. = National Seal, National used red sealer, Chicago Rawhide ( CR ) used green. I don't think your seals would have been assembly line seals as the oval FoMoCo has been xx out. I have seen this in the past on parts produced by an OEM supplier but with the car company's logo xx or ground off in an OEM box. Example, Bendix disc pads with the FORD logo xx out in a Bendix box. And just not only on Ford parts but other car companies also. Most likely they were manufactured to be assembly line or service parts that ended up being over runs by National or that Ford didn't need at that time and they couldn't be sold to other part suppliers with the FoMoCo logo so they xx it out IMO.
That makes perfect sense Rodney. Many thanks for the detailed response.
David
Rodney
Moved the fuel line into the correct loop, scratch another off the list
Quote from: rcgt350 on September 26, 2021, 12:42:46 PM
Moved the fuel line into the correct loop, scratch another off the list
Meant in a helpful way a item to add to list - change coil wire to have straight in bell shape boot at coil and right angle boot at dist cap. That is if the list is for changing items to be more historically assemblyline correct which I suspect it is .
Bob
I'm always on board for suggestions, keep them coming please
I'll look into the wire now,
Thanks
Cleaned the car on Saturday and then went to the Lehigh Valley North East Regional Meet on Sunday.
Ran it through the gears....HARD....
Quote from: S7MS427 on September 27, 2021, 08:12:54 AM
Cleaned the car on Saturday and then went to the Lehigh Valley North East Regional Meet on Sunday.
Roy, looks like your efforts were rewarded - congrat's!
I started up a few and then drove the 71 pickup I bought from Mrs Kiwi,...with the "injected" 383 stroker motor.
Left some Sik marks on the road.
RIP KIWI.
Quote from: Bigfoot on October 05, 2021, 08:26:08 PM
I started up a few and then drove the 71 pickup I bought from Mrs Kiwi,...with the "injected" 383 stroker motor.
Left some Sik marks on the road.
RIP KIWI.
a very proper tribute!
Quote from: JD on October 05, 2021, 04:59:56 PM
Roy, looks like your efforts were rewarded - congrat's!
Thanks, JD. But there was only one other '67, a GT350. Truth be told, my car is a 15 footer. The other car was much nicer.
I took 0036 out to the Autobahn Country Club for the annual Chicago Vintage Mustang Club show. 110 entries plus we had about 4 not-so- slow parade laps. I had a ride -along: a 12 year old who is likely a future Shelby enthusiast. Great time (10/10/20211)
Quote from: roddster on October 11, 2021, 09:40:48 AM
I took 0036 out to the Autobahn Country Club for the annual Chicago Vintage Mustang Club show. 110 entries plus we had about 4 not-so- slow parade laps. I had a ride -along: a 12 year old who is likely a future Shelby enthusiast. Great time (10/10/20211)
And no one documented this with photographs?
Getting ready to go to French Lick, IN.
Wait! The left rear turn signal doesn't work. And the brake lights don't work.
But the right turn signal DOES work.
Decided it must be the turn signal switch. Our friends at NPD have a replacement.
Here we go.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/187-191021204242.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/187-191021204338.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/187-191021204423.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/187-191021204522.jpeg)
Getting the new wires back down the steering column, now that's the tricky part. No picture taking, just tedious work involving string and knot tying.
And voila! Two days and it works. (union shop)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/187-191021203846.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/187-191021203954.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/187-191021204056.jpeg)
I hope you have the best of luck with the reproduction turn signal switch. When I got my car it had a reproduction switch and it failed after several months. I replaced it with another reproduction and it lasted about a month before it failed.
I then found an NOS one ($$$$$$), and it has now lasted for over 2 years. The problem is that with the addition of the 4 extra tail/brake lights, and also the scoop lights that it is just too many amps for a switch designed to run just 2 rear bulbs.
Does anyone know if there any option for LED bulbs that would fit in the same sockets
I would imagine that would reduce the current draw a lot
Make that expensive turn signal switch last a bit longer
Quote from: acapulco350 on October 20, 2021, 12:02:36 PM
Does anyone know if there any option for LED bulbs that would fit in the same sockets
I would imagine that would reduce the current draw a lot
Make that expensive turn signal switch last a bit longer
I put LED bulbs in the tail lights of my '67 for that very reason, to reduce current draw. I used replacement 1157s. No problems so far. Several places sell these. I'm sure someone will chime in with a few places. I bought mine while at Carlisle so don't have a name.
I just finished getting our car ready for the French Lick event. Excited for it!
Rare when you see a really nice 1967 Shelby. Even more rare if you see an early '67 with all the unique parts, and even more rare when #20 & #23 show up together.
Shelby Cobra Association of Texas, 31 years of friends, still going strong.
Took it out and hammered on it......The exhaust seems to echo off buildings quite nicely.. 8)
Quote from: rmarble57 on October 31, 2021, 08:00:42 PM
Rare when you see a really nice 1967 Shelby. Even more rare if you see an early '67 with all the unique parts, and even more rare when #20 & #23 show up together.
Shelby Cobra Association of Texas, 31 years of friends, still going strong.
NICE!
Always great when you can get to see other cars built near the the same time as yours.
Pulled my gt500 out of its 50 year sleep on February 23 2020.
Didn't figure it would take nearly this long. Still waiting for seats, but engine is installed and plumbed. No coolant in the radiator yet, but I had to know! No fuel in the tank yet.
Put in a battery and connected the cables. No hot wires and no smoke. Whew! Walked over to my bench and stared down at a set of keys that hadn't been in the ignition for over 50 years.
Opened the driver's door and saw the courtesy lights come on!
Sat on the carpeting and put the key in the ignition. I will admit I paused for a moment. Turned the key to the first click and the alternator light came on. No funny smells or sounds. Hit start for just a second and the engine turned over!!!
Tomorrow I will put fuel in it, coolant, cross my fingers and hope to
Wake her up.
^^^^ exciting !!
The photo is a couple weeks old now but I got out for a photo with the fall colors. Also, got my 4201S fuel pump back from Fred.
Quote from: acapulco350 on October 20, 2021, 12:02:36 PM
Does anyone know if there any option for LED bulbs that would fit in the same sockets
I would imagine that would reduce the current draw a lot
Make that expensive turn signal switch last a bit longer
you may want to try Cougars unlimited. I used them for my 70 and I love the LEDs. http://www.thuntek.net/cougars_unlimited/
Took a load of toys out for the Toys for Tots in Loudon, TN in the GT-350 on a beautiful fall day.
Had the opportunity to blow some dust off so I took it........ "honest officer. the fuzzy bear was driving..."
Got missing windshield chrome piece on, to replace duct tape.
I installed 4 electric motors on my 67. Won't move, no chip included, no batteries included....
Oh, its "Fall back" I thought it was April Fools Day.
This past Saturday, 11/06, I drove 0100 from our house over to the Shelby American Collection in Boulder and put the car back on display.
I scored some perfect OEM outer shock towers, wired up my dash cluster for installation, and installed the functional brake scoop ducts.
I "corrected" my trunk lid. My aftermarket trunk lid had a beautiful gelcoat body color finish. So I sanded off the finish, applied a nonstructural fiberglass sheet along with some chopped matt to try and reproduce the originals I have seen, blackened it out and added the overspray. Its not perfect but looks pretty good to me.
Just thought this was a cool picture. #23 Up off its' Hooves getting ready for a light refurb on some parts over the winter.
Been driving and enjoying for a couple of years and will be doing some detailing and fixing the Damn horns that won't blow!
Quote from: rmarble57 on December 02, 2021, 03:15:45 PM
Just thought this was a cool picture. #23 Up off its' Hooves getting ready for a light refurb on some parts over the winter.
Been driving and enjoying for a couple of years and will be doing some detailing and fixing the Damn horns that won't blow!
How do you like that lift, not to change the subject. I don't have a high ceiling garage and want a better option than ramps and jack stands. Thanks! Car looks nice BTW
Terry
Quote from: rmarble57 on December 02, 2021, 03:15:45 PM
Just thought this was a cool picture. #23 Up off its' Hooves getting ready for a light refurb on some parts over the winter.
Been driving and enjoying for a couple of years and will be doing some detailing and fixing the Damn horns that won't blow!
My, my that's some induction you have there. 0066 would be jealous.
The Quick Jack Lift is new to me, but so far, I really like it. I'm faced with a space problem and didn't want a permanent lift that I always had to work around and or get a drive on that moves......it still gets in the way and you can't do tires/wheels very easily.
So, this one is very stable, very easy to operate and lifts it up where you could pull a transmission or detail the underside pretty easily.
They make them in 5000 lb and 7000 lb capacity and they hang on the wall when not in use. Mine are the 5000 lb and are very stable and raise the car easily. I believe the 7000 lb versions are the same price..........just heavier to lift and move around.
Quote from: rmarble57 on December 02, 2021, 03:57:21 PM
The Quick Jack Lift is new to me, but so far, I really like it. I'm faced with a space problem and didn't want a permanent lift that I always had to work around and or get a drive on that moves......it still gets in the way and you can't do tires/wheels very easily.
So, this one is very stable, very easy to operate and lifts it up where you could pull a transmission or detail the underside pretty easily.
They make them in 5000 lb and 7000 lb capacity and they hang on the wall when not in use. Mine are the 5000 lb and are very stable and raise the car easily. I believe the 7000 lb versions are the same price..........just heavier to lift and move around.
Very good. Thanks for the info. Think I'll look into one.
Quote from: Texascobra on December 02, 2021, 11:33:49 AM
I "corrected" my trunk lid. My aftermarket trunk lid had a beautiful gelcoat body color finish. So I sanded off the finish, applied a nonstructural fiberglass sheet along with some chopped matt to try and reproduce the originals I have seen, blackened it out and added the overspray. Its not perfect but looks pretty good to me.
Very cool. You even managed to make the Plazaglass sticker look old. I would also be impressed if you replicated the look of a missing sticker with light overspray around it and then removed the sticker :)
Quote from: rmarble57 on December 02, 2021, 03:15:45 PM
Just thought this was a cool picture. #23 Up off its' Hooves getting ready for a light refurb on some parts over the winter.
Been driving and enjoying for a couple of years and will be doing some detailing and fixing the Damn horns that won't blow!
Call me some time and I will walk you through the horn fix if you don't already have a game plan.
Thanks Bob.
Will Do.
I dusted it off
#23
Not today, but last weekend......................
Removed the inboard lights and removed 1 piece grill to replace the rubber moulding along the bottom.
Wiped down and touched up detailing on underside after 2+ years of driving.
Noticed seeping Proportioning Brake Valve so I replaced it.
Removed the rear bumper and flat taillight panel to begin the process of restoring the panel. Had some warpage over time from the thin part at the top.
Next:
Match paint
Reinforce panel
New taillight gaskets
New filler tube gasket
Repair any studs on taillight assemblies
Thoroughly seal the area of the taillight panel around the gas filler so that fumes do not invade the cabin
Update on progress on #23 - Minor refurbishing.
After removing all the rear taillight components and trying to fit a reproduction "flat" taillight panel, I gave up and started to re-work, re-pair and re-finish the original panel. The reproduction panel didn't come close to matching the original holes for fitment, and the "stands" for the bolts were too big to fit in the recessed areas. I'll post pictures of original panel as progress is made. Attempting to minimize the gap around the top portion of the panel as it doesn't have any attaching points.............but I have an idea.
First, however, was returning the taillight surrounds back to their original finish as they had been painted at some point. Returned to natural aluminum finish after sanding down the paint. Put them in my Vapor Honing machine and they came out great. Early cars according to the experts were not highly polished.
Before and after images attached. FYI: That part that looks tarnished is now taken care of.
Next up is replacing broken studs on the surrounds, then cleaning and refinishing the taillight panels themselves.
The beat goes on...................
The Saga Continues..............
Rear of car repainted, cleared and ready for assembly.
Early "Flat" taillight panel fiberglass repairs made, sanded, spot puttied and primed. Will warm up the shop tomorrow and start painting the fiberglass panel.
Taillight boxes detailed.
Next up, clean up and detail the taillight boxes themselves, new gaskets, repair broken studs on taillight surrounds etc, etc, etc............
Use your heat gun and take the jack sticker off of the trunk lid underside. On your very early car I have seen it on the back of the trap door.
for your early car you may want the other jack sticker, the one you have maybe for a later in the year car...
nice fixing - fragile stuff.
Thanks much. Where I might find the "early" sticker?
Got the front suspension tracking straight in the low, lean and mean position. We shall see soon enough. Getting oh so close, pictures in the next couple of weeks.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on January 08, 2022, 08:39:27 PM
Use your heat gun and take the jack sticker off of the trunk lid underside. On your very early car I have seen it on the back of the trap door.
I thought i would mention for those reading that may not be aware, the jacking instruction sticker was installed at Ford San Jose and not Shelby. The 67 Shelby's were delivered without rear deck lids and hoods (SoCal temperate weather) . The majority of the cars had the jack sticker placed on the right side trunk floor . It was hard to see with a spare tire installed but "that's just the way it is" as you know who always says.
Always appreciate your insight Bob.
An original example
(https://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/7/6-040517233035.jpeg)
Quote from: rmarble57 on January 08, 2022, 09:59:55 PM
Thanks much. Where I might find the "early" sticker?
NPD, "D-247" is their part number for that version ;-)
(the part number for the later version jack sticker, the one in post reply #195 the third image , is D-41)
There is always an exception to the rule...............
Here is a photo of 0100 taken by Motor Trend magazine on 12/12/66.
Thanks,
Eric
Quote from: 67411F--0100-ENG. on January 10, 2022, 03:25:30 PM
There is always an exception to the rule...............
Here is a photo of 0100 taken by Motor Trend magazine on 12/12/66.
Thanks,
Eric
Eric, that evidence is great documentation for your specific car. ;) You are lucky that your car was used as a magazine car back in the day among other things. It would not be good evidence for most any other 67 Shelby given that location was not typical. I thought I would point this out just in case someone thought just because it was that way on Eric's car it automatically made it concours correct for others 67 Shelby's . Of course someone could put the sticker anywhere they want to but expect push back if trying to justify that location in Concours venues.
Quote from: 67411F--0100-ENG. on January 10, 2022, 03:25:30 PM
There is always an exception to the rule...............
Here is a photo of 0100 taken by Motor Trend magazine on 12/12/66.
Thanks,
Eric
Exceptions typically require evidence to support the out of the ordinary for a given car. Eric's evidence in this case is pretty iron clad.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on January 10, 2022, 05:30:03 PM
Quote from: 67411F--0100-ENG. on January 10, 2022, 03:25:30 PM
There is always an exception to the rule...............
Here is a photo of 0100 taken by Motor Trend magazine on 12/12/66.
Thanks,
Eric
Exceptions typically require evidence to support the out of the ordinary for a given car. Eric's evidence in this case is pretty iron clad.
Hello Bob,
I did look through my photos of cars 0050 and 0173. Unfortunately, I do not have photos of those two cars with their trunks open.
Thanks,
Eric
r:e jack labels, all the photos I have in my files of '67s from new back in the day, barn finds, unrestored cars, others that would fit
this criteria, I have only one that shows the underside of the trunk lid with visible jack sticker, and it's #2803 at a show in Quebec,
Canada circa 1986, and that's the restored car.
Continuing on with the winter taillight section project.
Fiberglass parts are straightened, repaired & painted and ready for reassembly.
Passenger side taillight box riveted in - 5 Rivets lined up on the top, 4 on the bottom. Cutouts by Shelby too big for the other positions.
The next project may not be applauded by the purists, but I'm tired of smelling the fumes inside the car from the vented fuel cap.
I purchased the vent line made for the '69 Shelby's which was invented to keep those cars from going up in flames from the vented fuel cap right above the exhaust.
The '69 trunk width is wider than the '67 so I used a tubing bender and modified it to fit.
Drilled a small hole in the fuel filler and then used a tapered punch to enlarge the hole and give some metal where I could tap it.
Used a 90 degree 1/8" pipe x 5/16" barbed fitting and ran flexible tubing from that up to the metal vent line.
Used the tabs designed to hold the taillight wiring to secure the line.
Ran the bottom line out through a grommet and out into the open space.
Will have a non-vented cap inside the flat flip fuel lid.
As always, no extra holes etc in the car proper where everything could be put back if someone actually likes the smell of 93 octane + booster!
More Pics.
Today - replacing some trashed underlayment. Found a note from some girls to the original owner in 1972 - inquiring to his whereabouts and the original Vehicle Specs (also quite worn).
Taillight panel refurb recap:
The previous (b4me) installation of the panel and boxes was pretty shoddy, but after all this work, it's easy to see why someone would give-up and just say "that's good enough". When I disassembled the taillight inner boxes, there were about 4 rivets on each side holding them in and it looks like the person assembled the taillight panel into the car and then came back around and riveted the boxes as best they could.
I went the other way by riveting the boxes in first and managed to get 10 rivets on each side holding them in place. Thus, making a more secure setting to work with.
Then assembled the taillight surrounds, lens, gasket and panel into the fiberglass flat panel and set it carefully into the recess and into the 4 mounting stud locations. This was completely scary after going through the trouble with fiberglass repair and paint. The housings are really heavy and the taillight panel is thin and flimsy.
I then used all-thread to get the taillight panels somewhat centered into the trunk boxes and installed all the studs and then synched up the nuts.............not too tight as to warp the back panel and cut off the studs.
Now with everything assembled, you get what everyone else has illustrated in that the taillight boxes protrude further into the trunk on the inboard side and that has made it impossible to get the speedway 350 (with tread) into the trunk. I have the original Magstar and Speedway (bald) that I will try for looks, but no amount of wiggling even with absolutely zero air pressure gets the spare in place because of how far the taillight surrounds protrude inward.
It is easy now to understand why so many changes were made to the '67's as they progressed through the build and no wonder Ford stepped in and took over the reigns.
As seen in the picture, I have vented the fuel tank over to the passenger side and down into the trunk drop and out through the grommet. I'm hoping this resolves the fumes entering the passenger cabin. I now have a non vented fuel cap inside of the flip lid so everything should go out the new vent tube. I know some think that it is exhaust fumes and sealing the taillight panel with rope caulk will hopefully help as well.
Not a job for the faint of heart.
Next up: Rebuilt transmission install and put the interior back together and ready to get back on the road.
Thanks to everyone phone, email and emotional support.
Original Speedway 350 (Bald) on original Magstar installed in trunk.
Shame that the nicely restored wheel and new repop Speedway doesn't fit.
Quote from: rmarble57 on January 30, 2022, 05:03:09 PM
Original Speedway 350 (Bald) on original Magstar installed in trunk.
Shame that the nicely restored wheel and new repop Speedway doesn't fit.
It should if you let some air out of the tire.It is not like you are going to put the bald tire into service.
Bob,
As mentioned, I let all of the air out of the repop tire and it just hangs up on the inboard taillight surround.
Yes, the tail lights and inboard grill lights on early cars is a P-I-T-A.
Look forward to hearing how the venting works.
Took it grocery shopping yesterday. Got a big thumbs up from a young guy in a Subaru on the highway and when I parked an older gentleman came over to talk a bit. He told me that it was an iconic car from the past. I told him I knew that and then he proceeded to tell me about muscle cars he had owned back in the sixties. Nice guy.
Ok, time for a wrap-up on #23 after the wintertime tidy-up project.
1) Installed the one-piece bottom grill rubber.
2) Wiped down / detailed undercarriage after a couple years of driving. Reapplied Shark-Hyde to unpainted surfaces.
3) Disassembled flat taillight panel and made fiberglass repairs and installed properly sealed with rope caulk. Trunk boxes were installed properly with almost all of the rivets.
4) Adjusted steering column so that horn probes could properly contact switch.
5) R&R transmission for rebuild.
6) Replaced leaky rear brake proportioning valve.
7) Altered fuel cap venting to a non-vented cap and routed vent through brass fitting and up into aluminum line like the '69 recall unit and vented down through the trunk drop.
The weather turned nice and was able to get the car out yesterday for an extended drive and I am happy to report that #7 above WORKS!!!! No reversion fuel smell into the driving cabin.
Time now to turn attention to the 2017 GT350R brakes/tires etc to get ready for upcoming open track sessions.
Thanks to the experts here on the forum for your support, knowledge and encouragement.
Ran it in the garage for a while.Won't be driving it for a bit as I just received a replacement(non o.e.m.)for my left (clutch foot) hip.... :'(
Randy, great that all the work is as hoped!!
557, future therapy ;-)
Replaced my faulty brake light switch today. Did not realize the lights were not working until a friend of mine told me I had no brake lights. All is in working order and ready for a drive this Sunday.
Hi Greek, happy to hear your problem is fixed! Safe driving.
Thanks!
Unable to post with pictures right now. Message says picture uploader is full, contact admin.
Anyone know how to contact admin?
Maybe you can PM the forum guide. I was told he is the one with admin access.
Quote from: rmarble57 on March 09, 2022, 07:11:54 PM
Unable to post with pictures right now. Message says picture uploader is full, contact admin.
Anyone know how to contact admin?
Randy, try again. I sent a message and got a reply that it would be looked at ,-)
Still getting this same error:
The upload folder is full. Please try a smaller file and/or contact an administrator.
I even cut down the size of the pictures and still no bueno.
Maybe later today...
Rebuilt the shifter.
Quote from: shelbydoug on March 12, 2022, 02:10:36 PM
Quote from: greekz on March 12, 2022, 01:30:46 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on March 12, 2022, 06:41:03 AM
Rebuilt the shifter.
Auto or 4-speed?
4 speed.
It's too bad we can't post pics. :'(
Did you totally disassemble the entire shifter assembly? What did you use to lubricate the components?
When I did 1966 shifter, I lubricated all of the components with Lubri-plate white grease. It has never shifted so smoothly.
Quote from: greekz on March 12, 2022, 03:07:17 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on March 12, 2022, 02:10:36 PM
Quote from: greekz on March 12, 2022, 01:30:46 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on March 12, 2022, 06:41:03 AM
Rebuilt the shifter.
Auto or 4-speed?
4 speed.
It's too bad we can't post pics. :'(
Did you totally disassemble the entire shifter assembly? What did you use to lubricate the components?
When I did 1966 shifter, I lubricated all of the components with Lubri-plate white grease. It has never shifted so smoothly.
Not so simple there grasshopper. ;D
There is a story that goes with this and then there is a story that goes with that story. Ready?
First. In '76 I installed a Ford top loader in my '68 GT350. It was out of a Boss 302. On that one I installed an aftermarket Hurst Competition Plus shifter and linkage.
Out of the box, that one came with "Hurst Shifty shifter grease". It was grey looking like molybendum disulfide. That one shifted flawlessly out of the box.
After wrestling with rear end gears, I just got this overwhelming urge for more gears and after my drag racing friend told me that I didn't have enough "out of the hole" torque and the car SHOULD be in the 11's (Randy's gonna' see this), I needed to have a torque multiplication of the product of first gear and the rear ratio of between 11 and 15.
The Nash kinda' snuck up on me. It is a 3.27 first gear. I had 3.70's in the car. That gave me a product of 12.099. Good! Cruising wasn't though. So back in went the 3.50's. Better but you still couldn't put on the stereo and sleep.
Now at this point in the story, I have to warn you that it gets longer. So if you want to take a break, go stretch, get a drink, check the mail, go ahead...I'll wait until you come back....
OK, you back? So there now was a Boss 302 with a Hurst shifter sitting around. Hum. That really doesn't matter to the 500. So why did I bring that up? I don't know?
So as I remember, my 500 came as drivelineless. No engine. No transmission. No interior for that matter...but I digress again. Yikes! I don't know what is wrong with me? Probably too much to list?
I was looking for a big input 4 speed and first I bought one from Perogie for $275. I didn't realize that it had a small output. Resold it for about what I paid. Didn't know it came out of a 427 Cobra...GEEZ-US DOUG get on with it please...
I do remember where this RUG-AZ came from, but I'll spare you the details. PHEFEW! My finger tips are beginning to bleed.
Its a 70 big/big Boss 429/428 SCJ with a Hurst from the factory. It's been sitting since about 1986. I just went through it and the shifter itself wouldn't go into reverse.
Just installed a Hurst rebuild kit and the grease, oh yea, you asked me about the grease. It came in the kit labeled GREASE. Kinda' looks like Vasalene.
Anyway. It shifts really slick now, but now it's so slick that I can't feel the 1/2 gate downshifting and it slides into reverse. I'm not sure what to do about it but in Googling, the biggest complaints on the Hurst shifters is the reverse lockout. Usually it's the other way around, i.e., it won't go into reverse?
Now I understand why the Ford shifter and lever have a reverse lock out on them. Good idea. Too bad the one on my Ford lever is just there for looks now?
So that's where I'm at right now. I shortened the second part figuring that now you need to go pee because you had a big gulp on the first break I gave you so now you can go.
I was just wondering why I'm like this today? You know, extra flakey? I was just watching "Endless Summer" which Bruce Brown narrates throughout the film? Maybe that's like a computer virus and you can catch it?
Quote from: shelbydoug on March 12, 2022, 04:37:45 PM
Quote from: greekz on March 12, 2022, 03:07:17 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on March 12, 2022, 02:10:36 PM
Quote from: greekz on March 12, 2022, 01:30:46 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on March 12, 2022, 06:41:03 AM
Rebuilt the shifter.
Auto or 4-speed?
Very interesting story. A little more than I bargained for, but entertaining. Interesting to know it was a Hurst shifter rebuild and not a FoMoCo. Enjoy the rest of you day.
4 speed.
It's too bad we can't post pics. :'(
Did you totally disassemble the entire shifter assembly? What did you use to lubricate the components?
When I did 1966 shifter, I lubricated all of the components with Lubri-plate white grease. It has never shifted so smoothly.
Not so simple there grasshopper. ;D
There is a story that goes with this and then there is a story that goes with that story. Ready?
First. In '76 I installed a Ford top loader in my '68 GT350. It was out of a Boss 302. On that one I installed an aftermarket Hurst Competition Plus shifter and linkage.
Out of the box, that one came with "Hurst Shifty shifter grease". It was grey looking like molybendum disulfide. That one shifted flawlessly out of the box.
After wrestling with rear end gears, I just got this overwhelming urge for more gears and after my drag racing friend told me that I didn't have enough "out of the hole" torque and the car SHOULD be in the 11's (Randy's gonna' see this), I needed to have a torque multiplication of the product of first gear and the rear ratio of between 11 and 15.
The Nash kinda' snuck up on me. It is a 3.27 first gear. I had 3.70's in the car. That gave me a product of 12.099. Good! Cruising wasn't though. So back in went the 3.50's. Better but you still couldn't put on the stereo and sleep.
Now at this point in the story, I have to warn you that it gets longer. So if you want to take a break, go stretch, get a drink, check the mail, go ahead...I'll wait until you come back....
OK, you back? So there now was a Boss 302 with a Hurst shifter sitting around. Hum. That really doesn't matter to the 500. So why did I bring that up? I don't know?
So as I remember, my 500 came as drivelineless. No engine. No transmission. No interior for that matter...but I digress again. Yikes! I don't know what is wrong with me? Probably too much to list?
I was looking for a big input 4 speed and first I bought one from Perogie for $275. I didn't realize that it had a small output. Resold it for about what I paid. Didn't know it came out of a 427 Cobra...GEEZ-US DOUG get on with it please...
I do remember where this RUG-AZ came from, but I'll spare you the details. PHEFEW! My finger tips are beginning to bleed.
Its a 70 big/big Boss 429/428 SCJ with a Hurst from the factory. It's been sitting since about 1986. I just went through it and the shifter itself wouldn't go into reverse.
Just installed a Hurst rebuild kit and the grease, oh yea, you asked me about the grease. It came in the kit labeled GREASE. Kinda' looks like Vasalene.
Anyway. It shifts really slick now, but now it's so slick that I can't feel the 1/2 gate downshifting and it slides into reverse. I'm not sure what to do about it but in Googling, the biggest complaints on the Hurst shifters is the reverse lockout. Usually it's the other way around, i.e., it won't go into reverse?
Now I understand why the Ford shifter and lever have a reverse lock out on them. Good idea. Too bad the one on my Ford lever is just there for looks now?
So that's where I'm at right now. I shortened the second part figuring that now you need to go pee because you had a big gulp on the first break I gave you so now you can go.
I was just wondering why I'm like this today? You know, extra flakey? I was just watching "Endless Summer" which Bruce Brown narrates throughout the film? Maybe that's like a computer virus and you can catch it?
You sure got your moneys worth greekz . ;D ;D ;D ;D
Quote from: Bob Gaines on March 12, 2022, 07:01:30 PM
You sure got your moneys worth greekz . ;D ;D ;D ;D
I edited it down. After all he just asked about grease. 8)
I always enjoy a good story!
Quote from: greekz on March 12, 2022, 11:02:56 PM
I always enjoy a good story!
My wife says I'm very predictable? I have no idea what that means? ::)
Quote from: shelbydoug on March 13, 2022, 07:38:37 AM
Quote from: greekz on March 12, 2022, 11:02:56 PM
I always enjoy a good story!
My wife says I'm very predictable? I have no idea what that means? ::)
I get the same from my wife. So. to combat that, I took my '67 out for a nice drive this morning and swapped stories with my cronies. It was a pleasant 2 hours.
I was fortunate enough to find a NOS pair of Upper Scoop Lights and installed them!!
Randy - is that a model that you added lights to?
If so I did the same ;-) will look for the photos
Yes it is JD.
Took it for a very expensive spirited romp.It was "well worth it". 8)
Quote from: 557 on April 03, 2022, 03:46:22 PM
Took it for a very expensive spirited romp.It was "well worth it". 8)
I did as well. You cannot put a price on that feeling and exhaust sound.
Charged the battery
It's Alive! Well well well. Last time my 67 500 moved on it's own was 1971. Long story that I'll share sometime. 71 is when the engine was stolen. Since I didn't have an engine I loaned my transmission and rearend to a friend. Never got it back. Remember, I was a dumb kid. So it sat without running gear till 2 years ago. It was time to put it back together. Today I started it and drove it out of my shop for about 20 ft. Then backed it back in. Next week is exhaust. What a glorious feeling!
Great update.
Thankful I'm not the only one who has let a project car sit way, way to long.
Quote from: Lfino on April 09, 2022, 07:46:32 PM
It's Alive! Well well well. Last time my 67 500 moved on it's own was 1971. Long story that I'll share sometime. 71 is when the engine was stolen. Since I didn't have an engine I loaned my transmission and rearend to a friend. Never got it back. Remember, I was a dumb kid. So it sat without running gear till 2 years ago. It was time to put it back together. Today I started it and drove it out of my shop for about 20 ft. Then backed it back in. Next week is exhaust. What a glorious feeling!
Wow congrats & that's awesome that you kept it that long ,i'm sure you had temptation & many offers along the way it sell it.
Quote from: 68krrrr on April 09, 2022, 08:48:37 PM
Quote from: Lfino on April 09, 2022, 07:46:32 PM
It's Alive! Well well well. Last time my 67 500 moved on it's own was 1971. Long story that I'll share sometime. 71 is when the engine was stolen. Since I didn't have an engine I loaned my transmission and rearend to a friend. Never got it back. Remember, I was a dumb kid. So it sat without running gear till 2 years ago. It was time to put it back together. Today I started it and drove it out of my shop for about 20 ft. Then backed it back in. Next week is exhaust. What a glorious feeling!
Wow congrats & that's awesome that you kept it that long ,i'm sure you had temptation & many offers along the way it sell it.
We have all made some dumb mistakes. Good to know you have it back on the road. Hope you have many wonderful days of driving.
Quote from: Lfino on April 09, 2022, 07:46:32 PM
It's Alive! Well well well. Last time my 67 500 moved on it's own was 1971. Long story that I'll share sometime. 71 is when the engine was stolen. Since I didn't have an engine I loaned my transmission and rearend to a friend. Never got it back. Remember, I was a dumb kid. So it sat without running gear till 2 years ago. It was time to put it back together. Today I started it and drove it out of my shop for about 20 ft. Then backed it back in. Next week is exhaust. What a glorious feeling!
That had to be a great feeling - congratulations!
https://youtu.be/mq2tXLsBVFg
68krrr. You're correct. Sort of.
Many offers over the years even as I tried to keep it under wraps.
But I swear to you, never never did I any thoughts of parting with it.
Now that is keeping the faith! Glad to hear it is rolling on its own.
Drove it like I stole it,which was good.Also put my elbow through a seam in the drivers seat( and opened up a 4 inch gap),which wasn't good..... ::)
Quote from: 557 on April 16, 2022, 08:36:38 PM
Drove it like I stole it,which was good.Also put my elbow through a seam in the drivers seat( and opened up a 4 inch gap),which wasn't good..... ::)
Does your car have original upholstery? If so, that is a bummer.
No thank God it's not original.I had the seats custom made.The passenger side seating surface is the original comfortweave,but the drivers side (which I screwed up) is repop "comfortweave"(the pressed stuff).I do have the original drivers side comfortweave inserts stored for future use.If it had been original I would have been really pissed.As it is its more like ...whatever....It didn't reduce the enjoyment of the drive a bit...easy fix. ;)
That is good news indeed. It is comforting to know you have the correct material in reserve.
Yeah,well the repop stuff is far from correct,but I can assure you it feels much better if you put your elbow through it I am sure..I was lucky in that it split on the seam by the welting.Should (presumably)be a relatively easy fix for my upholstery guy.....
Finally got the exhaust done on the 67 500. Hooray!
Super 10s might need a little more help?
1 more
Impressive exhaust! Love the cutouts.
^^ Yes, a lot of work and looks well done - you'll hear it!
Gave 2 16 year old girls(my daughter and her friend)a "history lesson"(i.e. scared the hell out of them) with a "spirited" romp about town in the gt500.They seemed to enjoy it 8)
This weekend I will begin to detail out #23 as it will be on display at the Keel's and Wheel's Concours near Clear Lake Texas April 30th and May 1st.
Anyone else attending?
Trying to locate my linen pants, large lapel shirt, Birkenstocks, large face watch and more importantly a "sneer" for those "other" cars.
Randy, just open the hood - that'll knock 'em over ;-)
This morning #1154 got out of the garage and went for a front end alignment; Been trying to find time & opportunity to do this for quite a while; All was good - had a great professional to do the work; Had a lot of "lookie lous" stop in to check out the car while it was in public; Home safe & sound now ..... But covered with pollen..... "Yikes"
Tom Gilliam
(270) 847 - 8093
#2751
Rebuilt the rear brakes with correct Fairlane cylinders and new linings - big improvement!🙂.
Filled the gas tank £90 (~$115) 😕 in preparation for trip out to The Classic Motor Barn in the Cotswolds (UK) tomorrow 🙂
Ouch on the fill-up!
Great when the right parts are in-place.
Quote from: Skidado on April 23, 2022, 02:02:25 PM
#2751
Rebuilt the rear brakes with correct Fairlane cylinders and new linings - big improvement!🙂.
Filled the gas tank £90 (~$115) 😕 in preparation for trip out to The Classic Motor Barn in the Cotswolds (UK) tomorrow 🙂
That is a hefty amount. But, measured in happiness per mile(kilometer) it is well worth it.
Adjusted the steering box and replaced the brake light switch.
Dave
Quote from: GT350DAVE on April 23, 2022, 05:34:19 PM
Adjusted the steering box and replaced the brake light switch.
Dave
Did you use an NOS switch or a reproduction? I used an NOS switch when replacing mine a few months back. Just wondering if a old service part will last longer than a reproduction switch.
Put a new battery and voltage regulator in it a couple weeks ago, drove it to cars and coffee this morning.
Quote from: greekz on April 23, 2022, 09:17:59 PM
Quote from: GT350DAVE on April 23, 2022, 05:34:19 PM
Adjusted the steering box and replaced the brake light switch.
Dave
Did you use an NOS switch or a reproduction? I used an NOS switch when replacing mine a few months back. Just wondering if a old service part will last longer than a reproduction switch.
I used a reproduction from Branda. I have had this issue with one of my other cars and used the same successfully. It gets harder every year to get under the dash. Long arms and big hands don't help.
Dave
Thank you for the information. I can identify with getting under the dash, getting older does not help either, less flexible. Glad my car is an automatic, made it easier to change.
Greek
Brake light switch: Even more fun to replace when the previous owner somehow managed to put it on backwards, with the u-slot outside negating the ability to slip it off with just a slight horizontal movement.
Additional previous owner fix yesterday... the little brackets that secure the bottom of the fenders behind the front wheel well. Somehow mine never could correctly tighten down and the bolts were at a funny angle. Took the right one off to soak in Evaporust, straighten the bends and chase the threads. When going to put back on noticed an "L" and it didn't seem to fit right. Thought surely not, and yup, the one on the left side had an "R".
Backwards, I have a hard enough time putting in on the correct way. That answers the question why the fender brackets were on opposite sides.
I noticed today when I took #2339 out for a spin there was a loud knock like noise when turning the wheel to the left when ready to leave my parking spot. Not sure what might cause that, but will have to investigate tomorrow. Hopefully, nothing too serious.
Keels and Wheels Concours in Houston.
3 '67's in attendance.
Red, White and Blue.
White #23
Blue #508
Red #3123
Thanks for posting, patriotic colours ! I like the blue car with parchment !
Mike
5/1/2022
Swapped out the storage wheels and put on the Magstars, changed the oil, adjusted the valves. Ready to roll now. Just have to wipe it down and wax it.
Quote from: rmarble57 on May 01, 2022, 10:09:44 AM
Keels and Wheels Concours in Houston.
3 '67's in attendance.
Red, White and Blue.
White #23
Blue #508
Red #3123
Randy Great looking cars, thanks.
Interesting - #23 and #3123 - 3100 cars a part, lots of differences and nice bookends.
#23 & #3123 reside about 10 miles from each other.
Warmed it up by scaring the local small children and pets,then changed the oil... ;)
Sounds entirely reasonable! Hope you laid down some new black lines on the pavement too.
Quote from: 557 on May 25, 2022, 09:57:05 PM
Warmed it up by scaring the local small children and pets,then changed the oil... ;)
taarent you are a wild and crazy guy !
Out of the garage and onto the street for first time since 71. Took it to the gas station ($85) then about a 4 mile shake down with a chase vehicle behind.
No leaks or overheating. No brake lights.
Small fix!
That white on parchment?
Yes. White on parchment.
Quote from: Lfino on May 26, 2022, 12:54:57 AM
Out of the garage and onto the street for first time since 71. Took it to the gas station ($85) then about a 4 mile shake down with a chase vehicle behind.
No leaks or overheating. No brake lights.
Small fix!
Love it !
Took ours out yesterday also, a one hour run, half tank a gas later....PRICELESS
Enjoy it !
Hopefully, it is the brake light switch or loose wire, not in the turn signal switch.
Just checked it out.
Forgot to install the switch! Oops.
Getting ready for Carlisle, painting the pan bolts that got scratched up when changing the gasket. Wiping down underneath.
Quote from: Lfino on May 26, 2022, 12:55:53 PM
Just checked it out.
Forgot to install the switch! Oops.
I like those simple fixes.
Quote from: tonys_shelby on May 26, 2022, 01:19:11 PM
Getting ready for Carlisle, painting the pan bolts that got scratched up when changing the gasket. Wiping down underneath.
Wish I had a lift!
Haven't gotten the bottom dirty yet, but I don't look forward to crawling around under there.
Wish I had a lift
Well Yesterday, we Dyno'd the 289 hipo engine for our restoration of GT350 #1341.
Engine built by Carlquist Competition Engines in CT.
Dyno set up
37° total advance, 1.75 BBK headers, .016 lash
292hp @ 5500rpm (ran out to 6000rpm, 291.7hp)
302 ft•lbs @ 4400rpm
Specs
Engine Balanced
Cam: Stock Ford hipo
Stock C7 hipo heads no porting, still have bump in exhaust ports unique to C7 for thermactor provisions.
Heads fitted with 1.50,1.84 valves did this as hardened seats were installed.
Bore .030
Intake: Orig Shelby S7MS 9424A, port matched to heads.
Carb: Orig Shelby 3259 715cfm
Distributor: orig FoMoCo dual point.
Carlquist modified the slot in mechanical advance plate. Welds it up and machines to .380. This allows for 18° init and 36-37° total timing.
Congratulations, a good day.
Cool! Nothing quite as nice as a good running hipo!
Pulled the high and low horns off today. Put power to them. Nothing. Ran the screw in and out. Nothing. Tapped them with a hammer. Nothing.
Filled them with PB Blaster. Letting them soak overnight.
Roped in the rear glass with help from my son!
Jon
Quote from: 1175 on July 02, 2022, 08:56:17 PM
Roped in the rear glass with help from my son!
Jon
Looking good. Nice to have a helping hand.
Isn't there just a thin type of flap or something that gives the horn it's activation?
I'm pretty sure they're very simple inside
Yes. The horn is pretty simple inside. Just can't get to the inside. Rivets.
Today I took the screws out that control the vibration. Filled the hole with PB.
Tomorrow I'll probably hit it with 18 volts.
The horn, when supplied by 12V, has a normally closed set of points that energizes an electromagnet to pull a metal diaphragm back. As soon as the diaphragm is pulled back far enough the one end of the points attached to the diaphragm loses contact. This off/on happens very quickly resulting in the diaphragm vibrating.
The screw adjusts when the points make/break.
Looking good, Jon.
Make sure the horn is grounded when testing it. There are several companies that can rebuild them with the original style rivets. "Hornworks" comes to mind.
Restoration of Mustang horns by a outside service maybe the only practical way to save the exact same horn that came off your car (if you are absolutely positive it has not been replaced) . However the cost of restoration typically far exceeds what you can typically still find used working Mustang horns for. The Horn works for example https://www.carhornrestoration.com/ is 249.00 to restore your pair of cores (on sale for 219.00 for june and july). FYI given the time and materials it can take to restore a Mustang horn I don't think the costs in the example are unreasonable just that there are less expensive alternatives . At least for now.
Quote from: Coralsnake on July 04, 2022, 10:38:01 AM
Make sure the horn is grounded when testing it. There are several companies that can rebuild them with the original style rivets. "Hornworks" comes to mind.
Gary at the Horn Works did my '67 horns. He did a great job and they work perfectly.
Greek
Thanks for the info. I'll work on it another day or two
Went to a car show..got there early!!
Craig. Was that mountlake terrace?
Fircrest
Sent #906 off for new paint on Monday. Had it bead blasted last month, did some sanding on it per the painter and then bombed canned it with primer to keep the rust off until the painter gets working on it. Will need a new drivers side lower rocker panel and the front end has had damage years ago. That will all be repaired along with new radiator support and torsion bar support brackets. I'll see it after the first of the year.
Don't say the C word, but these folks have the rebuild kits available... ;D
https://www.zip-corvette.com/
TOB
Quote from: nwfire on July 05, 2022, 11:01:58 PM
Sent #906 off for new paint on Monday. Had it bead blasted last month, did some sanding on it per the painter and then bombed canned it with primer to keep the rust off until the painter gets working on it. Will need a new drivers side lower rocker panel and the front end has had damage years ago. That will all be repaired along with new radiator support and torsion bar support brackets. I'll see it after the first of the year.
Cool! Progress pictures would be nice.
I NEVER thought I would be saying this, but I posted pictures today! OMG