Question for the group. I did a search but didn't find specifics on what I was looking for. If its out there can some one point me to the post?
My car wont be driven through the winter months (Northeast). Specific to the engine, what should be done to it to ensure a problem free spring start up. I will have the ability to start it but not on a consistent basis. Lastly the car will be stored in an insulated, but non-heated garage.
Thank you
Kevin
Quote from: KDunne on September 29, 2020, 01:54:37 PM
Question for the group. I did a search but didn't find specifics on what I was looking for. If its out there can some one point me to the post?
My car wont be driven through the winter months (Northeast). Specific to the engine, what should be done to it to ensure a problem free spring start up. I will have the ability to start it but not on a consistent basis. Lastly the car will be stored in an insulated, but non-heated garage.
Thank you
Kevin
Put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank and change the oil before storage. If a unheated unattended building then I would consider one of the car jacket carbags to zip the car up in so that you don't have to worry about rodents. I used them for years with success. You can unzip it to start the car up if are planning on starting it every couple works and letting warm up which would be ideal. If not planning on starting then then take the battery out and store it safely someplace where you can put it on a battery tender. Just a few that are top of my list .I will let others add theirs.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on September 29, 2020, 02:07:38 PM
Quote from: KDunne on September 29, 2020, 01:54:37 PM
Question for the group. I did a search but didn't find specifics on what I was looking for. If its out there can some one point me to the post?
My car wont be driven through the winter months (Northeast). Specific to the engine, what should be done to it to ensure a problem free spring start up. I will have the ability to start it but not on a consistent basis. Lastly the car will be stored in an insulated, but non-heated garage.
Thank you
Kevin
Put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank and change the oil before storage. If a unheated unattended building then I would consider one of the car jacket carbags to zip the car up in so that you don't have to worry about rodents. I used them for years with success. You can unzip it to start the car up if are planning on starting it every couple works and letting warm up which would be ideal. If not planning on starting then then take the battery out and store it safely someplace where you can put it on a battery tender. Just a few that are top of my list .I will let others add theirs.
Bob Thank you for the quick reply. I do have car jacket which I will use. Would you suggest a full tank or half tank of fuel; many schools of thought there.
Quote from: KDunne on September 29, 2020, 02:13:50 PM
Quote from: Bob Gaines on September 29, 2020, 02:07:38 PM
Quote from: KDunne on September 29, 2020, 01:54:37 PM
Question for the group. I did a search but didn't find specifics on what I was looking for. If its out there can some one point me to the post?
My car wont be driven through the winter months (Northeast). Specific to the engine, what should be done to it to ensure a problem free spring start up. I will have the ability to start it but not on a consistent basis. Lastly the car will be stored in an insulated, but non-heated garage.
Thank you
Kevin
Put fuel stabilizer in the gas tank and change the oil before storage. If a unheated unattended building then I would consider one of the car jacket carbags to zip the car up in so that you don't have to worry about rodents. I used them for years with success. You can unzip it to start the car up if are planning on starting it every couple works and letting warm up which would be ideal. If not planning on starting then then take the battery out and store it safely someplace where you can put it on a battery tender. Just a few that are top of my list .I will let others add theirs.
Bob Thank you for the quick reply. I do have car jacket which I will use. Would you suggest a full tank or half tank of fuel; many schools of thought there.
I am of the full tank school of thought (along with fuel stabilizer) because of more chance of rust formation on the portion of gas tank not submerged in fuel.
I second the recommendation for a full tank. I also have put gas line antifreeze in the tank along with fuel stabilizer. I know some people feel compelled to start a car up a time or two during the winter, but I've been told by a few people over the years whom I trust that this is not required and if the car is not brought up to full operating temperature, the resulting condensation is not good for the car. If you can't leave it alone, consider putting the battery in it once or twice over the winter and cranking it a few times to get the oil pressure up and the oil circulating, then take the battery back out. I have been storing at least one or two cars a year this way for almost 50 years and I've never once had an issue. I'm also in the northeast and likely a little further north than you. I've just put the freshly charged battery back in the car in the spring and they have always started right up.
Quote from: jk66gt350 on September 29, 2020, 03:55:21 PM
I second the recommendation for a full tank. I also have put gas line antifreeze in the tank along with fuel stabilizer. I know some people feel compelled to start a car up a time or two during the winter, but I've been told by a few people over the years whom I trust that this is not required and if the car is not brought up to full operating temperature, the resulting condensation is not good for the car. If you can't leave it alone, consider putting the battery in it once or twice over the winter and cranking it a few times to get the oil pressure up and the oil circulating, then take the battery back out. I have been storing at least one or two cars a year this way for almost 50 years and I've never once had an issue. I'm also in the northeast and likely a little further north than you. I've just put the freshly charged battery back in the car in the spring and they have always started right up.
Very helpful. I have all my cars on tenders, i did think about running straight gas through the carb, before storing as well. Although not sure if this will make a difference.
For those not filling up completely, Sta-Bil 360 would be the wise choice. It protects the fuel tank from corrosion caused by condensation.
Here's a tip on gasoline: DO NOT fill up at the end of the season with 87 Octane fuel. Most, if not all of that grade contains 10% ethanol. Carb issues appear the next spring.
Battery: at least disconnect the negative cable. But the best way is to remove the battery and put it in the house. (unless you have a heated storage place).
Wheels/Tires: Chrome rimmed wheels last better when removed and also put in the house. I have what I call a storage set. Old steel wheels and bald tires.
Agreed ^^^
I was always told that the tank should be either all-the-way full, or totally empty - to prevent condensation and contamination.
I've always gone totally FULL with stabilizer.... "pure" gasoline or something with no ethanol would be ideal (but not available in my area :()
Also, depending on the tires, flat-spotting could be an issue - pick your favorite idea to avoid that.
+1 on no-alcohol fuel, ++1 on the Sta-Bil. Drive the car with the Sta-Bil in it (if you don't just use it all the time, I do) to circulate it. +1 on the oil change before putting it away. ++1 on the battery tender, or remove it and still do the tender.
Or just drive 'em every 2 weeks. ;D Even when cold out as long as the roads are clear.
I do use Ethanol free gasoline. Sold 2 miles from my house.
To prevent flat spotting bias tires you could buy FlatStoppers from Race Ramps which are quite high. I have used several thicknesses of carpet samples or 1" styrofoam under tires which work very well, airing up your tires slightly over spec. helps too.
I'm also fortunate to have Sunoco 93 octane (non ethanol) fuel close by and if need be I can boost it with some Sunoco 110. Be sure to test your current antifreeze for adequate protection for your area.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/187-011020100623.jpeg)
Lol, I like that jguyer.
Made me smile. ;)
I just inflate my tires to 50 PSI to prevent flat spots.
I never start my cars in the winter as to a point made earlier, this can attract moisture.
One other recommendation - if the garage has a cement floor, lay down thick plastic (clear vapor barrier is great) on the floor under the car. With significant temperature fluctuation, significant condensation comes up from the cement floor which the plastic will prevent.
^^^ +1 and +1
These are all great tips. Thanks to all for sharing.
I always use Seafoam in the gas tank, but I drive it some every month. Ron
I do most all the above and also put the car up on a set of short jackstands to "unload" the suspension, tires still just touching the floor but no load on the other suspension parts, Might be a waste of time, but over a 20 year period maybe not ?
I drive our two Mustangs every 10-14 days throughout the year, even in winter time. I rum E-Free gas, so I really don't run into any problems.
Running is key for any cars survival. They need to be driven, or if that cannot be done, at least started and tranny shifted and pump the brakes.
As Rod Serling occasionally said, "Submitted for your approval ...." a comparison of fuel stabilizers for winter storage.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chsGBhB5g7o (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chsGBhB5g7o)
I enjoy watching Ryan_F9's motorcycle product review videos.
Gotta Love those episodes of "The Twilight Zone". Actually have watched every episode here recently over on Netflix.
Quote from: Jim Herrud on November 14, 2020, 10:50:44 AM
As Rod Serling occasionally said, "Submitted for your approval ...." a comparison of fuel stabilizers for winter storage...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chsGBhB5g7o (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chsGBhB5g7o)
Ugh, been using the "wrong stuff" for years >:( :o
thanks for posting.