SAAC Forum
The Cars => 1968 Shelby GT350/500/500KR => Topic started by: Jack4159 on November 10, 2020, 10:05:25 AM
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Thought I would share. Started stripping 4 days ago and have had a good run, should be done tomorrow. Body going off to the experts who need it for 6 months, rotisserie, going back to original highland green. In that time me and a mate helping will work on everything else. Got a nice surprise with the body, a little minor rust in the cowl, A pillars and trunk recess that will require patching but very minor and nothing anywhere else! All original panels, no patches anywhere. Even found the build sheet !
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Well done. You can do a little more, by looking for writing on the radiator support and cross member
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Look where front fenders bolt to radiator support on both sides (Two vertical holes) and along bottom front cross member.
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Thanks Pete, I'll check it out tomorrow, nearly midnight here now so well and truly knocked off.
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(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/8-101120112845.jpeg)
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You can also look on the front face of the passenger side shock tower for letters or numbers
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Nice work.
And great color.
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I’m guessing 4 spd AC car?
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Very cool & good luck where did you find your build sheets & are you gonna keep the trailer hitch ;D
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Look where front fenders bolt to radiator support on both sides (Two vertical holes) and along bottom front cross member.
Think I found some markings, passenger side looks like an R, can't make out the driver's side very well.
Couldn't find anything on the front crossmember or shock towers but managed to avoid some harder work by trying. :)
Do the markings have any meaning?
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I’m guessing 4 spd AC car?
Yep, good guess :)
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Very cool & good luck where did you find your build sheets & are you gonna keep the trailer hitch ;D
Build sheet was under the dash wrapped to the main wiring harness with black tape, which thankfully had no "stick" left in it. Came apart no problem but very fragile.
Yeah the towbar is not making a comeback. The second owner had the car 40 years and the KR was his driver which he used to tow his racer, a GT350.
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Nice work.
And great color.
Thank you!
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Sure they mean something 😉
The “R” is likely the engine code, but could be paint code.
The “78” is a rotation number
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I’m guessing 4 spd AC car?
Yep, good guess :)
Not that much of stretch. 4154/4155 same Figured they were in same DSO as yours
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Going to be drop dead gorgeous when done.
Love finding a build sheet
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Sure they mean something 😉I
The “R” is likely the engine code, but could be paint code.
The “78” is a rotation number
Thanks Pete, very cool.I reckon I will pop these back on once she's painted.
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Thats your choice, but at least you saw them
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Is the glasswork for 4159 original panels?
I always thought one of the headlight buckets was aftermarket because it had no green paint on the back, but on getting it off it does have some highland green on it.(highland green is original colour, car was sprayed in black at some stage long ago)
Not sure if it's possible to tell from these pics, but if anyone can tell I would be grateful.
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more glass pics.
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more glass pics.
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Smooth and pinkish is correct
Looks original from here
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Sure they mean something 😉I
The “R” is likely the engine code, but could be paint code.
The “78” is a rotation number
Is the R in red ?
Thanks Pete, very cool.I reckon I will pop these back on once she's painted.
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Sure they mean something 😉I
The “R” is likely the engine code, but could be paint code.
The “78” is a rotation number
Is the R in red ?
Thanks Pete, very cool.I reckon I will pop these back on once she's painted.
I would say the R looks most likely in white.
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Found some more markings, posting just in case they are of interest to anyone.
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Havent seen those before, but likely made by welders ...
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Smooth and pinkish is correct
Looks original from here
Thanks Pete, very pleased to hear that.
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Back from the blasters and whilst a few little surprises were found it's nothing major. The worst of the rust is in the cowl which is going to be completely unpicked and sorted. All the original sheetmetal will remain with some very minor patches here and there, so overall I'm pretty happy. The body guys(who work pretty much 60's-70"s muscle cars only)said it was the best body they had seen in the last couple of years. :) :)
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Looks amazing
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Sure they mean something 😉
The “R” is likely the engine code, but could be paint code.
I vote- engine code given the (at all plants it does not need to match exactly) since the mark is over the last paint layer applied to the body
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Just a little update.Body guys have had the car 8 months now, expect to be finished by Christmas.The fibreglass needed a lot of work, some of the gelcoat was shot but all saved and back in good shape now.
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Congrats to you. Always a good feeling seeing them in stripped down condition and then going back together to create something beautiful.
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Coming along nicely. Funny, it always takes longer than we think.
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Coming along nicely. Funny, it always takes longer than we think.
It sure does....It's almost going to come as a surprise that first day I take her out on the road I think.
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No Knee Pad on the Dash?
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No Knee Pad on the Dash?
Knee pad?
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A GT500 KR does not have a knee pad on the dash. It is a feature of earlier built cars in 1968.
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No Knee Pad on the Dash?
Knee pad?
check out the pics and see the knee pad on the dash http://www.thecoralsnake.com/History23
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No Knee Pad on the Dash?
Knee pad?
check out the pics and see the knee pad on the dash http://www.thecoralsnake.com/History23
That does not appear to be a KR?
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No Knee Pad on the Dash?
Knee pad?
check out the pics and see the knee pad on the dash http://www.thecoralsnake.com/History23
That does not appear to be a KR?
it wouldn't be as it is an early car with a knee pad. later cars didn't get knee pads as mentioned by Pete.
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OK I'll admit it took me a while, but I eventually figured out what a knee pad is. Happy to have learned something today, thanks everyone for the input.
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OK I'll admit it took me a while, but I eventually figured out what a knee pad is. Happy to have learned something today, thanks everyone for the input.
I think the pillar pads were eliminated sometime also. My 68 didn't have the knee but had the pillar pads.
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UPHOLSTERY-repair(if possible) or replace.
4159 will be back from the body shop in a few weeks, much has been done whilst waiting but I can’t make a decision on the upholstery.
I’ve attached a few pics, what would you do? Repair(if it can be repaired) or replace..?
The car has undergone a nut and bolt resto and is predominantly original but is not a concours car.
Thanks in advance for any opinions and feedback.
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UPHOLSTERY-repair(if possible) or replace.
4159 will be back from the body shop in a few weeks, much has been done whilst waiting but I can’t make a decision on the upholstery.
I’ve attached a few pics, what would you do? Repair(if it can be repaired) or replace..?.....
Understand the urge to keep the original material and do a repair - have done it on some of mine. Issue is often that it still does not look fresh and new and can stand out in an otherwise fully restored and redone car. Also old material and seams are more likely to ripe or tear again when compared to fresh not upholstery.
And option may be to store the original and have another set of seats and frames redone for the finished car.
Just some thoughts
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UPHOLSTERY-repair(if possible) or replace.
4159 will be back from the body shop in a few weeks, much has been done whilst waiting but I can’t make a decision on the upholstery.
I’ve attached a few pics, what would you do? Repair(if it can be repaired) or replace..?.....
Understand the urge to keep the original material and do a repair - have done it on some of mine. Issue is often that it still does not look fresh and new and can stand out in an otherwise fully restored and redone car. Also old material and seams are more likely to ripe or tear again when compared to fresh not upholstery.
And option may be to store the original and have another set of seats and frames redone for the finished car.
Just some thoughts
Thanks Jeff, helpful thoughts thank you, I think I will go with new and should probably order them now before I change my mind again.
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Primer on, not long now!!
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Bodywork done now prepping for paint.
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More pics.
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Very cool & good luck where did you find your build sheets & are you gonna keep the trailer hitch ;D
Build sheet was under the dash wrapped to the main wiring harness with black tape, which thankfully had no "stick" left in it. Came apart no problem but very fragile.
Yeah the towbar is not making a comeback. The second owner had the car 40 years and the KR was his driver which he used to tow his racer, a GT350.
Same place mine was ;)
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Annnnd, back together she goes.
The bolts that attach the fenders to the engine bay, I have the AMK kit, are they correct as they come ie they don’t get painted?
Thanks
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Not painted
The factory painted everything except the doors off the car
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Not painted
The factory painted everything except the doors off the car
And the rear valence...
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A pet peeve of mine is seeing the body and doors painted separately.
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Thanks for the replies everyone, greatly appreciated.
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Colour on at last, 4159 is coming home in 2-3 weeks after 18 months at the body shop.
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I think it's looking good
Later when you get to stripes and emblems, let us know if you need help. You need to nail those
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I think it's looking good
Later when you get to stripes and emblems, let us know if you need help. You need to nail those
Thanks Pete, you and others here have helped me with a lot of advice and more will be needed as the KR goes back together, greatly appreciated.
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Very,very Nice ;)
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Back in my shed after 1.5 yrs away, just came off the truck half an hour ago. Some pics, I hope you enjoy them…exciting day for me !!
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More pics
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Annnnnd more pics.
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More pics
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Coming along nicely Geoff.
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So all of these bits off the KR were lightly blasted then painted satin black to keep the rust at bay, I’m guessing some of these bits should not be finished that way and would be grateful if the knowledgeable folk here could advise the bits that are wrong so I can finish correctly
About to start reassembly next week.
As always, thanks in advance.
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Rear brake drums were cast iron
Engine brackets and bolts are bare steel
The cups for the front turn signals were gold dichromate (plated)
The power steering drag link was bate steel
The power steering ram bracket was cast iron
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Rear brake drums were cast iron
Engine brackets and bolts are bare steel
The cups for the front turn signals were gold dichromate (plated)
The power steering drag link was bate steel
The power steering ram bracket was cast iron
Thanks Pete, saved me hours and hors of trying to work it out!
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Finally.....after all that pulling apart, endless research, blown budget and skinned knuckles, starting to put 4159 back together and it feels good, it will all be worth it in the end. The guy under the car isn't me that's my helper mate.
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rest of pics, remember I'm not going for concours just a quality resto :)
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Even though not going for concours, just by restoring original parts, it usually takes minimal extra effort to do them the correct finish.
Do the rear wheel wells have sound deadener?
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Even though not going for concours, just by restoring original parts, it usually takes minimal extra effort to do them the correct finish.
I can attest to that. I did a non-concours level restoration on my car,6S1134, and found it was very easy to restore finishes on original parts. Very cost effective as well. Plus, the guidance from folks here, like Charles, Bob, Jeff, etc., saved a lot of experimentation and time.
Greek
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Why are you using rusty old brake hardware when new stuff is under $10?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1968,mustang,7.0l+428cid+v8,1132366,brake+&+wheel+hub,drum+brake+hardware+kit,1752
Roy
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I can attest to that. I did a non-concours level restoration on my car,6S1134, and found it was very easy to restore finishes on original parts. Very cost effective as well. ............
Yes since you have to refinish the parts anyway might as well replicate the original finish especially on the paint and unibody. Everything else is bolt on or off after that. Also may help later when it comes time to move on or may expand options, going forward with the car.
As always good luck with your choices. Make them wisely and own them
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Maybe a stupid question, but why were the interior floorpans not repainted back green ??
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Maybe a stupid question, but why were the interior floorpans not repainted back green ??
Maybe they made that choice since those areas will not be seen normally once the car is assembled. Plus painters are often more comfortable about controlling/limiting overspray and the like
Just one possibility that hopefully was not copied under the car
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Why are you using rusty old brake hardware when new stuff is under $10?
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,1968,mustang,7.0l+428cid+v8,1132366,brake+&+wheel+hub,drum+brake+hardware+kit,1752
Roy
because I got 2 beers for that $10- I saved....but really, the parts were in good shape completely functional and maybe even were made in the USA, replacements parts would remain unseen and shiny but maybe would come out of China. Also being in Australia means 2-6 weeks freight time at best, I have purchased 100's of parts and cost of part is doubled by freight, tripled with exchange rate, not relevant for $10- or an individual item but on $30k of parts comes into the overall approach, not so much for cost but just practicality from overseas and getting the car back together in a timely way.
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Maybe a stupid question, but why were the interior floorpans not repainted back green ??
Maybe they made that choice since those areas will not be seen normally once the car is assembled. Plus painters are often more comfortable about controlling/limiting overspray and the like
Just one possibility that hopefully was not copied under the car
Thank you Jeff, you are a gentleman and absolutely correct, it was not copied under the car.
Doing my best and frankly it's tough being in Australia, in Western Australia(3000 miles from Sydney) and in a remote part of Western Australia 200 miles from a city. We don't have mustang experts let alone Shelby. Anyway, doing my best and having a crack, the car will be nice.
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No idea why my pics are coming out upside down, I guess it's the only downside of being an Aussie. :)
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Even though not going for concours, just by restoring original parts, it usually takes minimal extra effort to do them the correct finish.
Do the rear wheel wells have sound deadener?
Hi Charles,
Yes they do but they screwed it up a bit. I have pics of it as it was but I guess kaka happens and I have a business to run so was busy and left them to it, could have been worse, could have been better.
My approach is to get this car great not perfect, so I can get my foot to the the floor before I pop my clogs. :)
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Progress ladies and gents.
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Just an update with pics for anyone interested :)
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more pics
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and more pics...
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Dusty and grubby cos hands have been all over last few months but progress being made.
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I have not seen metal under the folding seat brackets before? Is that something added to the car?
Motor mounts were all bare steel, except the rubber insulators
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I have not seen metal under the folding seat brackets before? Is that something added to the car?
Motor mounts were all bare steel, except the rubber insulators
Should be like this, correct?
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That seems more typical in my opinion
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That seems more typical in my opinion
my pic is a solid car with all factory untouched metal in the pic.
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I have not seen metal under the folding seat brackets before? Is that something added to the car?
Motor mounts were all bare steel, except the rubber insulators
Hi Pete,
Not added by me the car came that way, have attached a clearer pic.
Looks like spot welds at the bottom if you can make that out in the pic, its the same on both sides of the car.
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I dont think its an issue, just found it interesting
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Same thing on a Dearborn CJ I'm doing...
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First drive, still work to do but she is a functioning car again😁
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Super nice , Congrats ;)
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The car looks and sounds great! Many years ago when I put my old 68 back on the road it hadn't been on the road since the mid 70s. A great feeling getting one back on the road.
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The car looks and sounds great!
^^^ that.
Congrats on the progress and good luck getting everything to the way you want it 8)
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Yeah! Almost there....