Hello Gentlemen,
Does anyone have any experience with Evans waterless coolant? I am suitably intrigued by the concept.
https://www.evanscoolant.com/
Best regards,
Richard E.
in my view, it's just a bandaid for not fixing the root cause of any actual (not imagined) overheating.
if the misleading info found on the Evan's site is any indication of their corporate ethics, I'll pass on having the pleasure and expense of using there product.
....recently posted on another topic:
here: http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=1171.msg9983#msg9983 )
note, found a lot of misleading info on the Evans waterless coolant website:
https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/benefits/no-overheating/
".....Water turns into steam at 212°F. Mixing traditional ethylene glycol antifreeze with water in a 50-50 ratio increases the boiling point to 223°F, which is close to the operating temperature of an engine. Evans waterless coolants have a boiling point of over 375°F, far above the operating temperature of the engine....."
They conveniently leave out the fact that when the system is pressurized, the boiling point of 50/50 antifreeze is much much higher than 223 F. Really now, some of us do understand what the radiator cap is for !!!
NOTE: at the bottom of the page Evan's does mention that pressurized systems have a higher boiling point, only to poo-poo the effectiveness of the pressure on actual boiling point. not impressed .
Z
Here is an article contra to Evans. I think I will go with status quo on this idea therefore.
http://www.norosion.com/evanstest.htm
Nice find.
Z
Quote from: zray on March 31, 2018, 01:39:54 AM
Nice find.
Z
I agree. I never knew. The 100% replacement of water /old coolant kept me from trying it in the past. I'm now glad it did.
Evans coolant also has a low flash point. When it hits a hot exhaust you can have a nice fire. I have seen it happen 20+ years ago when we ran it in a 24hr. cycle test engine dyno.
Mike
As stated, the stuff is flammable and slippery. Who wants to spin in their own "juices"? I run plain water with WatterWetter in my track car and have never overheated, even in July at VIR when my oil temp is at 240F.
Very informative thread. I too was curious about this Evans product - thanks for starting the thread deathsled.
I'd also like to hear more about WatterWetter.
- Phillip
I am going to sell the Evans I have and buy some norosion. Nascar teams don't use Evans and they have unlimited budgets/testing. When I asked one of my contacts with a major team , he just laughed and said there was a reason they run water and it wasn't cost.
Randy
Quote from: gt350hr on April 03, 2018, 06:53:09 PM
I am going to sell the Evans I have and buy some norosion. Nascar teams don't use Evans and they have unlimited budgets/testing. When I asked one of my contacts with a major team , he just laughed and said there was a reason they run water and it wasn't cost.
Randy
Am interested in hearing any observations you might have about norosion vs. waterwetter .
Z
Here: https://www.redlineoil.com/waterwetter
Water with( water wetter) is whats allowed in all forms of circle track, road racing,because it is a phenomenal cooling agent and dries with out the slippery mess coolant leaves behind. If any one dumps coolant for ANY reason on these tracks you are banned for the season, that would suck- So its not worth messing with. I have been using water wetter in all my race cars the last 15 years or so and love it,yes you can see the difference on your gauges. NASCAR engines can live in the 230-240 range where Joe Schmoes engine would not be long for this world at those temps. Is paying 12.00 to loose 15 degrees worth it, lots of racers think so. Try it you will like it- ;)
Some questions (which I know I could go out and find, but I'm lazy)
Is it best just to run only distilled water and WaterWetter (no antifreeze)?
Does adding a bottle of WaterWetter to your 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze have any benefit?
Thanks -
- Phillip
Quote from: propayne on April 04, 2018, 07:48:58 AM
Some questions (which I know I could go out and find, but I'm lazy)
Should the WaterWetter replace the antifreeze? In other words, you are running with only water and WaterWetter?
Does adding a bottle of WaterWetter to your 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze have any benefit?
Thanks -
- Phillip
Yes, if your local climate ( temperatures ) are above freezing, so there is no danger the block cracking, you can certainly use 100% distilled water plus the water wetter.
According to the link posted above, there are benefits to using water water with a 50/50 mix.
Note: when I must use antifreeze, the Prestone Low Tox has worked very well in my classics, and it won't kill your pet if they drink some that has spilled via the overflow tube, etc. it's not sweet and pets aren't attracted to it.
Z
Quote from: zray on March 30, 2018, 09:56:02 PM
in my view, it's just a bandaid for not fixing the root cause of any actual (not imagined) overheating.
if the misleading info found on the Evan's site is any indication of their corporate ethics, I'll pass on having the pleasure and expense of using there product.
....recently posted on another topic:
here: http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=1171.msg9983#msg9983 )
note, found a lot of misleading info on the Evans waterless coolant website:
https://www.evanscoolant.com/how-it-works/benefits/no-overheating/
".....Water turns into steam at 212°F. Mixing traditional ethylene glycol antifreeze with water in a 50-50 ratio increases the boiling point to 223°F, which is close to the operating temperature of an engine. Evans waterless coolants have a boiling point of over 375°F, far above the operating temperature of the engine....."
They conveniently leave out the fact that when the system is pressurized, the boiling point of 50/50 antifreeze is much much higher than 223 F. Really now, some of us do understand what the radiator cap is for !!!
NOTE: at the bottom of the page Evan's does mention that pressurized systems have a higher boiling point, only to poo-poo the effectiveness of the pressure on actual boiling point. not impressed .
Z
Agree.
I have run 1:1 mix of Prestone and deionized water in my vehicles forever. Never witnessed any evidence of corrosion. My 10:1 compression, 483 HP side oiler with a 30 year old, OEM, 4-core radiator will run all day at the 160 deg thermostat setting.
What am I missing?
Quote from: zray on April 04, 2018, 08:11:46 AM
Quote from: propayne on April 04, 2018, 07:48:58 AM
Some questions (which I know I could go out and find, but I'm lazy)
Should the WaterWetter replace the antifreeze? In other words, you are running with only water and WaterWetter?
Does adding a bottle of WaterWetter to your 50/50 mix of distilled water and antifreeze have any benefit?
Thanks -
- Phillip
Yes, if your local climate ( temperatures ) are above freezing, so there is no danger the block cracking, you can certainly use 100% distilled water plus the water wetter.
According to the link posted above, there are benefits to using water water with a 50/50 mix.
Note: when I must use antifreeze, the Prestone Low Tox has worked very well in my classics, and it won't kill your pet if they drink some that has spilled via the overflow tube, etc. it's not sweet and pets aren't attracted to it.
Z
Thanks Z - Easy enough to switch to only distilled water and WaterWetter for the summer after the last freeze and then back again early fall.
We do market the Water Wetter product, and as stated previously, it is popular in many racing formats, but we also have witnessed that this product alone may not provide the same level of anti-corrosion value one may appreciate from the typical anti-freeze products (properly maintained). Also, I wonder whether or not the water pump seal(s) is lubricated to the same degree for extended periods of time, perhaps 10's of thousands of miles and decades chronologically, as this is rarely experienced in racing programs.
Scott.
I have run water wetter since it came out . I must admit I have never used distilled water with it. Always tap water. My bad? I have seen corrosion on the water passages on my aluminum intakes. I am going to try norosion with the "specified" "bottled water" , not distilled water as their site suggests. This won't happen until July of this year though. Whenever you have ferrous and non ferrous materials in the cooling system , there is "galvanic action" . I will test norosion to see if their claims are valid unless someone beats me to it.
Randy
Quote from: pbf777 on April 04, 2018, 10:33:36 AM
We do market the Water Wetter product, and as stated previously, it is popular in many racing formats, but we also have witnessed that this product alone may not provide the same level of anti-corrosion value one may appreciate from the typical anti-freeze products (properly maintained).
Scott.
An engine builder I know who builds for circle track and boats recommends distilled water, a bottle of Prestone water pump lube/anti-corrosion and two bottles of water wetter. Change out for winter storage.
link;
http://www.no-rosion.com/
I'm on a well here - no way I'd put well water in my radiator :o
- Phillip
Lots of info that is new to me here - maybe you do learn something new every day.
Thanks!
Quote from: gt350hr on April 04, 2018, 12:41:51 PM
I have run water wetter since it came out . I must admit I have never used distilled water with it. Always tap water. My bad? I have seen corrosion on the water passages on my aluminum intakes. I am going to try norosion with the "specified" "bottled water" , not distilled water as their site suggests. This won't happen until July of this year though. Whenever you have ferrous and non ferrous materials in the cooling system , there is "galvanic action" . I will test norosion to see if their claims are valid unless someone beats me to it.
Randy
You can buy sacrificial annodes for radiator use from Summit, etc.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32060
Z
Interesting. I will opt for the anode on my new rad!
I want to get away from something metallic dissolving in my cooling system. I'll be the guinea pig for testing norosion and let everyone know my findings. The only "ferrous' material in the engine/cooling system will be the impeller and shaft. Everything else is aluminum or rubber.
Aluminum block and heads too ?
Z
Quote from: gt350hr on April 06, 2018, 12:13:25 PM
I want to get away from something metallic dissolving in my cooling system. I'll be the guinea pig for testing norosion and let everyone know my findings. The only "ferrous' material in the engine/cooling system will be the impeller and shaft. Everything else is aluminum or rubber.
On second thought maybe I won't opt for an anode. Classic approach-avoidance conflict.
Quote from: deathsled on April 06, 2018, 02:47:56 PM
Quote from: gt350hr on April 06, 2018, 12:13:25 PM
I want to get away from something metallic dissolving in my cooling system. I'll be the guinea pig for testing norosion and let everyone know my findings. The only "ferrous' material in the engine/cooling system will be the impeller and shaft. Everything else is aluminum or rubber.
On second thought maybe I won't opt for an anode. Classic approach-avoidance conflict.
if you have have an aluminum intake and iron heads & block, then you get to decide; do I want my intake to dissolve, or do I want a sacrificial annode to dissolve. One of those is easily replaceable, and one isn't.
Z
As I mentioned all aluminum except the water pump impeller and shaft. No other steel/iron exposed to the cooling system.
Quote from: gt350hr on April 06, 2018, 03:38:54 PM
As I mentioned all aluminum except the water pump impeller and shaft. No other steel/iron exposed to the cooling system.
Time for that titanium impeller & shaft you've been dreaming about.
Z
Does water wetter only control overheating? Does it have anti-corrosion properties for our 60's engines?
I read the "learn more" section and didn't see any information on anti-corrosion, only overheating properties.
Quote from: 69mach351w on April 07, 2018, 11:04:53 AM
Does water wetter only control overheating? Does it have anti-corrosion properties for our 60's engines?
I read the "learn more" section and didn't see any information on anti-corrosion, only overheating properties.
no anti corrosion advertised that I know of, just lubrication for the seals, and helps with overheating. The only "proven" remedy for aluminum corrosion is the sacrificial annodes I mentioned in post #27. They work great. Marine and trucking industries have been using them for decades with zero unintended consequences.
Z
Does anyone know of a more "impartial/independent" review of the Evans product i.e., one not prepared by a direct competitor. We're considering the product for a driver '70 Mach 1 428cj w/ ac but are concerned about the finding that the product may increase engine temp. by as much as 20 degrees. Or, does anyone have any experience or insight/comments using the product in this particular application.