Any product suggestions for a seam sealer for the trunk/ wheel house area. I used the search and came up with a couple of different products. What do you guys recommend? Or perhaps someone could direct me to a previous post.
Thanks, Pete.
Just confirming your asking about the seam sealer used between joined panels in the trunk including the ones between the floor and wheel housed
Didn't provide when your car was built or could be more specific in my response. In general it was a chalk product that was applied from a tool, then depending on where it was applied left as is or spread/smeared over the joint. If you store the car is a climate controlled location without wide swings of temp I've been happy with regular DAP smooth- non textured sealant available at any Home Depot or similar provider
Sorry, it's a July built car.
Most of the later KRs have sprayed seam sealer in the trunk. Same as back of 1/4s
Quote from: Peter L. on February 04, 2021, 07:54:23 AM
Sorry, it's a July built car.
Thanks so the following are from cars with serial numbers above 8T200000. This will provide you with the final look. How you get there is up to you ;) Ignore the differences where some appear to be on top of paint and others under. The material at the seams remained flexible and with things in the trunk striking them the paint was torn or knocked off in some locations
Pictures show June/July examples
Hope this helps
Wheel housing to floor
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/15/6-040221183846.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/15/6-040221184104.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/15/6-040221184321.jpeg)
Rear bumper supports to floor
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/15/6-040221183236.jpeg)
Thanks for the photos. So would the sealer have been sprayed on with a Schutz type gun, or applied with a caulking gun from a tube, or brushed on from a can? It seems very thick and 'globbed' on in some areas.
Pete.
Pete,
J_Speegle did an excellent write up on concoursemustang.com forum explaining how to do this using Spectrum sound deadener. I followed his process for my trunk and was very pleased with the results. If you go to concoursemustang.com and search "Spectrum" you will find it. Look for "Seam Sealers and sound Deadeners - What worked for me". This is the link if it works? http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?topic=15.0.
Hope this helps, Corey
Super!! That's exactly what I'm looking for. Thanks for the help. More questions to come for sure. With some hard work and help from SAAC, 04052 may just be back on the road this summer after 50 yrs!
Pete.
Quote from: Peter L. on February 05, 2021, 08:02:59 AM
Thanks for the photos. So would the sealer have been sprayed on with a Schutz type gun, or applied with a caulking gun from a tube, or brushed on from a can? It seems very thick and 'globbed' on in some areas.
Pete.
Depending on whether sprayed or caulked as jeff has shown they would have been originally done with industrial grade tools back in the day. Today caulking gun and/or spray deadner gun will get you there. I don't recommend Schutz as it is way to light IMO. Try heavier bodied products like Lord Fusor or SEM. Guns to apply can be pricey
Yes, I agree with Tim. Fusor gun with 805hd product.
chris
Original looking (with in a range of possibilities as shown) is a combination of technique, right product and skill. So, you're going to need to do some practice before hand to figure out the distance from the panels, angle, pressure and other details.
Often a box with the top cut off and then cut diagonally from one corner to the opposite corner will provide up with two test areas that include right hand joints as well as a three-panel transistion so you can get a feel for the process
Thanks Jeff. I'll try that box idea to practice on. Getting a little off topic, I posted a question the other day about the tail light tin 'cups', regarding color. I was told to paint them semi gloss black. The last picture you posted of the red car clearly shows them body color. It also appears to be an original car. Just wondering.
Quote from: Peter L. on February 05, 2021, 03:09:25 PM
............... I posted a question the other day about the tail light tin 'cups', regarding color. I was told to paint them semi gloss black. The last picture you posted of the red car clearly shows them body color. It also appears to be an original car. Just wondering.
I think it better to refer to that car as unrestored or just somewhat "played with" since its apparent that the car has had a repaint a and that being the reason everything is body color
Those "cups" were not installed when the car as painted at Metuchen and instead added later at AO Smith. They were painted semi-gloss black as you were told. Thanks for asking so we could clear that up
Ok, thanks again.
Quote from: cbrown on February 05, 2021, 11:12:08 AM
Yes, I agree with Tim. Fusor gun with 805hd product.
chris
Chris
What air pressure are you using with the fusor gun and the 805hd?
This is gun we use. I do not regulate the pressure down at the gun and the fan control on side of gun is only opened about 1/4 turn. I do exactly what jeff said. I do test spray on piece of card board and ge desired pattern and then go at it!! He is a couple of pic of 67 we just did. I think we have some video of us spraying wheelhouses and floor on instagram if you do that stuff.
chris
I have the same gun...was having issues with lack of volume, I was running regulated at 80 psi. Sounds like I am running to low of pressure. Will try it non- regulated...thanks for the help
Ben
Quote from: Rbwiii on February 06, 2021, 09:00:57 PM
I have the same gun...was having issues with lack of volume, I was running regulated at 80 psi. Sounds like I am running to low of pressure. Will try it non- regulated...thanks for the help
Ben
Couple of things to consider. First make sure your gun is absolutely spotless after every use and if it's been sitting a while you may have residue built up inside. The worst thing about the guns they are incredibly hard to clean. The second is shelflife of the product. Often when we come up with the tube that doesn't spray well we look at the date and find out it's been around for a couple years.
Lastly and probably the most important is we find the product sprays best when the product itself is at a temperature of 80° and above. Generally what we do is put them under a heat lamp for about half an hour before we spray. Wait a minute, does the temperature ever get below 80° in Bakersfield LOL