I noticed last weekend I had antifreeze in my oil. The only thing I had done to the engine other than replace the carburetor was while I replaced the carb I replaced the intake bolts because the ones that were there were ridiculous. So I assumed I screwed up the intake seal so I removed the intake. I cleaned up all mating surfaces and purchased new gaskets. I ended up not using the flat cork gaskets on the china walls I used "The Right Stuff" on these flat surfaces. I also applied a small bead of silicone around the coolant ports. I applied "Copper Spray-a-Gasket" to just the head side of the intake gasket to help keep the gasket in place. I installed the intake and torqued all screws per a torque procedure someone posted here on the forum for aluminum intakes. I ultimately torqued all 12 screws to 20 ft-lbs.
I felt everything went very well but I started the car and let it run for 5 minutes or so and it runs like a top. But then I drained the oil and it again had antifreeze in it. I am at a loss as to what has happened. Does anyone have any suggestions for me?
Corey
A quick double check to start with - is the fluid in the oil anti-freeze for certain? Or is it gas? Both can make the oil very runny and muddy looking. Take a second to smell just to be certain. If it is gas, then most likely the carburetor float is stuck open and pouring gas into the engine. I ask as fixing the float is much easier to remedy than pulling off the intake and may save you a ton of work.
If it is for certain antifreeze, it would point to the intake manifold gaskets not sealing around the coolant ports. Unfortunately, that means draining the coolant and pulling the intake again. You mention you put some silicon around the water ports of the intake gasket. Permatex makes a separate product for thermostats and temperature sensors that has a very high resistance to antifreeze. Give this a try around the water ports on both sides of the intake gasket and hopefully, that will seal things up. Here is a link:
https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/gasket-makers/permatex-water-pump-thermostat-rtv-silicone-gasket/?locale=en_us
Jeff
Jeff,
That is an interesting thought. I do not smell gas but do not smell antifreeze either for that matter. Would it have a strong gas smell? Could the carb dump enough gas into the oil with 5 minutes of running to make the oil very runny? I put fresh 20W-50 oil in and run it fort 5 minutes then drain it. What comes out even before I get the oil plug out is very runny like water. When I remove the oil filter again it seems like water is coming out. But I do not smell ethylene glycol but it just seems so runny and cloudy. I could fill it up with oil and put the old carb on and see if it fixes the issue. I have already burned thru 15 quarts of oil diagnosing what is another 5?
Corey
How much coolant came out when you drained it? If it wasn't very much you might try briefly running the engine and draining/checking the oil again before you tear everything apart. In my experience it's pretty common to have a small amount of coolant spill into the block when removing the intake. When I've seen this the oil has been clean on the second drain.
My Ford spec book calls for 32-35 ft lbs on intake bolts. I would re-torque and retest. Water or a/f will settle to botton of pan,that is why when you loosen/remove drain plug you get that first,then oil. Good luck
What size engine? Is it a cast iron intake or aluminum?
My Ford shop manual shows 20-22 ft/lb for the 289 and 302 engines and 32-35 ft/lb for the 390 and 428 engines. *These specs would be for the cast iron intake manifolds*
It is a 302 with aluminum intake. I read a lot of posts on torqueing and some said to not go over 18. I did go to 20 but tempted to go to 22.
Corey
Since you just went through this with new intake gaskets, it's less likely that the intake gaskets are leaking but as I pointed out, the left rear corner is the most susceptible to leaks.
The 302 heads have dowels installed in them to hold the intake gaskets in correct alighnment
You might want to check the torque on the intake bolts as well but remember the caution on the bolt tightness.
Take off a valve cover and look for anti-freeze in the oil drain back area of the head.
How old are the head gaskets? Not to be an alarmist but that rear corner of the head gasket is a possibility of the source as well.
Take a clean paper towel and dip it in what you think is the anti-freeze in the oil. Is it green? It could be just water vapor in the engine from sitting. Check that your pcv is connected. Run the car again until it gets good and hot and the water vapor stops coming out of the exhausts.
My 302 can accumulate quite a bit of water in the crankcase due to disuse and weather changes and can take quite a while for the engine to burn it off. That happens through the pcv system.
On the aluminum intake manifold that you have, is there a noticeable amount of corrosion around the water transfer ports?
Be patient. All is not necessarily lost here. Also check the anti-freeze volume to see if it is noticeably lower level.
The oil you just drained. Pour it into a milk carton and let it sit. It will separate. If its antifreeze you will see the layer of coolant / water completely different from the rest of the oil. If gas it'll probably stay mixed or evaporate out.
dz
Quote from: Rukiddin on February 21, 2021, 01:10:14 PM
My Ford spec book calls for 32-35 ft lbs on intake bolts. I would re-torque and retest. Water or a/f will settle to botton of pan,that is why when you loosen/remove drain plug you get that first,then oil. Good luck
The specs are for cast Iron OP has aluminum . You risk ruining your intake by using those cast iron specs. I would not run the car. Water will evaporate or steam off when it gets hot. Anti freeze on the other hand will not. It is very risky when it gets into the oil . You run the risk of ruining your bearings if any of the antifreeze circulates through them.
I have changed the oil 3 times in the last week trouble shooting. The first oil change oil has been sitting in a milk jug since last Saturday. There does not appear to be separation. It is all just milky brown but I do not smell gas.
Obviously you are going to have to redo the intake installation .It apparently has to do with how you are installing the intake. It is sometime hard to diagnose a problem every step of the way by remote control. I will let others advise you in that regard. I would however advise you to try and get any and all of the antifreeze out of your cooling system before starting on the reinstall of the intake . I keep one of the prestone engine flush kits handy for just such things. https://www.ebay.com/itm/363249587998 . There are how to videos also. You will need to remove the thermostat out of the housing and reinstall if trying to flush without the engine running(which is what i would do). Given the problems you seem to be having it would be only prudent to run water only in your cooling system until you resolve the issue . After the issue is resolved you can drain water out and add anti freezr in.
My suggestion, BEFORE you start pulling everything apart again OR draining ANYTHING, invest in a cooling system PRESSURE TEST KIT.
They are about $100, but well worth it. Pressurize the system. See if it will hold pressure or if it indicates a leak and shows you where it is.
You want to eliminate the bad things that might have happened, like a crack in a casting somewhere and you want it to aid you in definitely locating the leak.
I find that the test kit is worth it's weight in gold for just testing the pressure holding ability of the radiator caps. Everything else is just a bonus.
Cory, I've got a pressure tester you can use
Also you might want to invest in something called BlockCheck, tests for blow head gaskets, cracked heads, etc
$24 at Harbor Freight
https://www.harborfreight.com/combustion-leak-detector-64814.html?cid=paid_google%7C%7C%7C64814&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIs7GGsvz77gIVFKGzCh0PYAAUEAQYAiABEgKecvD_BwE
Thank you Steve I will check it out. I figure the leak tester would indicate if you have a leak but if the leak is internal it would not help find it. But would be a useful tool.
I switched to my old carb and torqued all 12 bolts to 22 ft lbs and the problem persists and it is clearly antifreeze.
So I removed the intake again and found significant antifreeze in the rear passenger side of the block so In suspect this is the leaking port. I am going to have to tweak my procedure a bit and hope for the best.
Corey
Pressure test and then pulling the spark plugs and checking the cylinders may help to narrow where a leak maybe.
I have 2 foot straight edge of you need one to check for straightness
Corey,
I'd like to see the oil you drained. Could you put it in a glass container, let it sit overnight and post a pic?
Here's a thought. Take some new oil, mix with antifreeze, gas, water, mix and see if any of the mixtures match what you drained.
Rod
On the subject of intake gaskets has anyone used the Fel Pro steel laminate gaskets like 1247S3? An engine builder said they tend not to distort when tightening.
IF the heads have the intake gasket dowels in them, you need to be careful that the gaskets sit correctly on them and that the intake isn't being held away by them.
If you re-read my last post on the original "install" thread, you will see the numbers that I measured on the cork gaskets.
You can actually verify those numbers yourself prior to assembly.
You also need to be sure that the intake bolts aren't bottoming in the heads at all locations.
I think that those original 302 4v heads on the center 4 bolts used studs on the iron intake and if you want to replace them with bolts need to be drilled all the way through and retapped?
My heads do not have dowel pins in them for locating the gasket.
I am using the threaded studs in the 4 center positions.
But I do appreciate all advice as this problem is really troubling me.
Corey
You could put dye made for leak testing into the cooling system. Get it in most auto parts store. Let it circulate for a while. Then use a UV flashlight to see if any dye has leaked into the oil. If the leak is large enough you might see where the leak trail goes after pulling the intake.
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on February 23, 2021, 10:56:32 AM
My heads do not have dowel pins in them for locating the gasket.
I am using the threaded studs in the 4 center positions.
But I do appreciate all advice as this problem is really troubling me.
Corey
I just didn't remember if they had the dowels or not? Mine are stored away and I'm running AFR heads.
That entire scenario of installing the heads, the T/A intake and the shim head gaskets gave me very similar results to what you are going through. I had to strip it down three times PLUS twice for the head gaskets.
This is where for still undetermined reasons, by eliminating the cork gaskets, the leaks < plural, stopped.
The leaks were all in exactly the same location you are working on. The back of the driver side head/block/intake intersection.
It may be the iron Cleveland heads with the dowels to use the turkey tray? All, ancient history.
Incidentally, you need to let the RTV start to set up before you torque it down. That way less will get into the intake ports and less into the oil pan.
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on February 23, 2021, 10:56:32 AM
My heads do not have dowel pins in them for locating the gasket.
I am using the threaded studs in the 4 center positions.
But I do appreciate all advice as this problem is really troubling me.
Corey
Guys, help me out here with my logic thread. I believe that somewhere back while I was taking "engine 101" that I deduced that the purpose of locating dowels pins or, in the case of SBF engines, locating "tubes" were used to ACCURATELY position the cylinder heads to not only assure that the heads were centered over their respective cylinders but to also assure that the cylinder head/intake interface is correctly positioned.
All of the through holes drilled in the cylinder heads have to have clearance for the fasteners to be installed. By relying on the head studs/bolts to achieve this CRITICAL head position, I believe that one is inducing a path to failure such as the one that you experiencing. I can visualize the head(s) shifting off position downward and/or canting slightly allowing the head/intake interface to have too much clearance and/or not be parallel. I can also invasion a vacuum leak scenario. A few thousandths of shift (especially if the center-most studs are used for alignment) can translate into a significant gap at the interface extremes.
Frank
Frank,
I have not removed my heads. I imagine there are pins to locate heads to block. I simply changed the screws in my intake when all hell broke loose. I have been since trying to reseat the intake to eliminate the coolant leaks. Removing the heads will be the next step but I really think the problem in with the mounting of the intake.
Corey
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on February 23, 2021, 02:09:29 PM
Frank,
I have not removed my heads. I imagine there are pins to locate heads to block. I simply changed the screws in my intake when all hell broke loose. I have been since trying to reseat the intake to eliminate the coolant leaks. Removing the heads will be the next step but I really think the problem in with the mounting of the intake.
Corey
Your logic on what seems to be the problem based on what happened when you removed the intake bolts is as sound now as when you first reported it. Stay the course and pursue resolving the problem by way of intake (careful) re install is my opinion.
The heads here are not the problem. I agree with Bob. Re-install the intake. Third time's a charm. 8)
Thanks guys, the encouragement believe it or not helps.
Corey
what gaskets did you install ? there are quite a few that dont work on older engines/ most are 5.0 ho or 351 w style .the water ports are too big for early manifolds
I used the Fel Pro from NPD. If you have any suggestions for better gaskets I would love to hear them.
Corey
What Phil states is accurate and very pertinent to this situation.
I had to go through three or four sets to find the right ones. I wound up with Mr.Gaskets. NONE of the Felpros worked for the intake.
YOU have to match them up to the heads. I don't like the ones that have the L shaped cut right next to the water port. Mr.Gaskets didn't.
IF there is the slightest imperfection in the head or manifold, you will get a leak through them. I'm not sure what they are there for.
Unfortunately I didn't save the part numbers in my notes but you can get the Mr.Gasket from Summit Racing.
I think I wound up using the #213 Mr. Gasket.
Believe I have used the Mr. Gasket 5831 (Ultra Seal) in the past with good results
Terry
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on February 23, 2021, 07:52:14 PM
I used the Fel Pro from NPD. If you have any suggestions for better gaskets I would love to hear them.
Corey
Felpro lists 2 intake gaskets for a (assuming 68) 302. 90103 without the "L" and excludes Hi-Perf and the 90116 with the "L" for Hi-Perf and Special. Other than the "L" I don't know what makes them different but may be a good idea to call Felpro and ask them.
Also I saw in an earlier post you were using the copper spray gasket. Mr Gasket says that's not recommended for long term sealing. Also note their recommendations for the when you use what for end seals. https://www.holley.com/products/gaskets/intake_gaskets/
One last thing to keep in mind, once you get antifreeze circulating through your motor, you run the risk of it destroying your bearings because the antifreeze decides to live there. At a minimum, I would keep a close eye on your oil pressure and any noticeable drop from normal I would inspect and replace if necessary rod and mains.
Also goes without saying that replacing and inspecting the oil more frequently is a good idea for the near future
Given the nasty nature of Antifreeze should I just put in distilled water until I know the issue if fixed or will that cause some other problem. Car is in heated garage so freezing is a nonissue.
Corey
Be sure to include a rust inhibitor if you choose to use water. I know it's apples and oranges but most Model A folks seem to prefer water and a rust inhibitor since the babbit is poured instead of inserts.
TOB
I've seen some really negelected engines and an "old timer" back in the day, said keep changing the oil and running the engine until it comes out clean.
He saved a number of engines that way, as far as the bottom ends go. The lifters and rocker arms are another story but those are easily replaceable, or more easily replaceable.
I've also come to the conclusion that running straight "break in oil" for a few thousand miles is a really good idea as well.
No matter what you do though, you need to be a little bit lucky and "duck the bullet".
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on February 23, 2021, 07:52:14 PM
I used the Fel Pro from NPD. If you have any suggestions for better gaskets I would love to hear them.
Corey
I always liked Mr. Gasket Ultra seal for my Windsor engines;
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mr-Gasket-5831-1962-76-Ford-289-302-Ultra-Seal-Intake-Gasket-Set,54397.html
Link was random, just wanted a picture
EDIT; Whoops 68gtcoupe beat me to it.
you can add some ATF to the engine oil (1 quart) and let engine idle DO NOT DRIVE !!!!!!!!! < READ again warm it up then drain it replace filter and fill with engine oil . the ATF will absorber the water in system .
I reinstalled my intake manifold incorporating all the best practices in the world. Before doing so I checked the flatness of the heads and the intake and to the best I can check they look perfect. I am convinced there is no way the intake could be leaking at this point.
The oil that is in the car now is fresh (installed last Sunday) and the engine has not been run with that oil. I cracked the oil plug yesterday and got maybe a few tablespoons of antifreeze out of the drain plug. I did it again this morning and still got several drops just after sitting overnight. Then before even adding any antifreeze I pressurized the coolant system and it will not hold pressure. It slowly leaks down. I did this several times to no avail. I then cracked open the oil drain plug again and got another tablespoon or so of antifreeze (clearly when you drain the antifreeze it leaves a lot still in the engine?). So it is clear to me that even with the radiator not filled with antifreeze, antifreeze is still leaking into the oil.
So I am pretty certain I have larger problems. I am on my way to harbor Freight to get the combustion leak test kit (Thank you Steve) so I will verify my worst fears in a few hours. But I have little doubt left that either I have a head gasket that is leaking between the coolant passages and the oil or I have a cracked block.
Couple questions, the next step is to remove the heads.
1) If it is a head gasket problem will that be obvious when I remove the heads?
2) Is there any way to differentiate between blown head gasket and cracked block?
3) What is the best book for explaining how to properly reassembly the heads on the 1968 301 engine? I have the shop manual but it seems way to general I would like more details.
Corey
Generally you will see a snail trail where a leak exists on the gasket surface if that is the problem! As in any trouble shooting procedures start with the whats right in front of you, like the top end of your engine and methodically work your way down. DONT willy nilly rip sh t apart but more of a methodical type of inspection. Sorta like archiologists digging for bones in the desert. Look for abnormalities you will get there ... Start there first!
If you have a crack in one of the cylinder head ports, it would more likely be in an exhaust port. There you would smell it in the exhausts.
If it was on the intake, the plugs would be spitting..
302 heads are not particularly susceptible to cracking unless you did a "Competition" type of porting on them. Particularly on the exhausts, right in the short turn radius area. It's thin there.
If you have a crack between the valves into the water ports, that would leak into the cylinder, not into the oil pan. The cylinder would also have anti-freeze in it above the piston, fouling the plug and blowing it into the exhaust.
Unfortunately if it isn't one of the heads, it's the block. That makes more sense since you are finding this in the oil.
If your pressure testing shows that the system will not hold 15psi and there are no VISIBLE leaks, ta da, it's the block.
Now the block, probably, if it is cracked, is on a thrust wall in one of the cylinders. There are no internal "freeze plugs" that could be leaking. It's a cylinder wall.
Unless you twisted the heck out of the clock with a 10,000rpm hole shot and cracked through the main bulkheads, the cylinder can be sleeved and reused. You can't do that with the engine in the car unfortunately.
Ford blocks are high nodular iron unlike the soft crap that GM uses. It welds up really well with something as simple as a 308 stainless stick. So I've seen twisted blocks that crack through one of the mains (usually the center main which indicates you twisted the block) with such a bad saw tooth that you catch a finger nail on it, welded up, and align bored and run better then new. So all is not lost at all, but it's gonna cost a few bucks.
Best of luck with your findings. My #8 exhaust port leaked just as I was about to drive 9 hours to Pittsburg and would have failed on the road, so there that was bad luck gone good.
A compression tester won't show the crack in the cylinder normally since it will be down in the bore towards the end of the stroke. The pressure tester, which you already did, is all that you need to know provided that you aren't leaking through something like the heater core and giving you the wrong cause of the leak?
I do not smell antifreeze in the exhaust at all, exhaust smells normal. The car runs great. So do these two facts mean it is not a head gasket or cracked heads so has to be a cracked block?
Corey
Dont jump to conclusions, take a look at all things on the top end . There will be tell tale signs, look at the combustion chambers and the sealing surface of the cylinder heads, look at both sides of the head gaskets. Remember it was in good shape BEFORE you started working on it if I recall. Go back to what you were doing before your problem occured. You probably installed the head or intake gaskets improperly look very closely right there. While it is apart look at the deck of the block often you will see a hairline crack there or in one of the cylinders. Rotate engine with breaker bar and look carefully in each cylinder wall. Dont jump to the worst case scenario it is probably a gasket sealing problem. Always start with the easy stuff first!
AS I said before Anti freeze will kill your engine if it gets to the bearings . You have got to stop running your engine while anti freeze is present. You need to drain the anti freeze mixture coolant and replace with ONLY water while trying to diagnose a coolant in the oil problem with the engine running. You will still be able to tell water is in the oil as easy as seeing green antifreeze in the oil. After you solve your problem and everything else works fine is when it is safe to you drain off some water and add antifreeze. Water in the oil is bad but antifreeze in the oil is 100 times worse.
1. Did you drain the anti-freeze by opening the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator or did you remove the plugs in the block? If you only drained the radiator then yes, around 1/2 the coolant capacity is still in the block.
2. If it is a head gasket, it could be very obvious or you may need to look closer. The key here is identify all the oil and anti-freeze holes and look closely for signs of anti-freeze traveling into an oil hole. Speaking from experience, I had the top ring sealing a cylinder fail which pressurized the cooling system which then pushed antifreeze into the oil. This happened a long time ago and I forget if the oil/antifreeze seals were directly compromised by the cylinder ring that but they probably were.
3. One oddball thing to consider because you said this started when you replaced intake bolts, I remember years ago being told that either Felpro or Ford Motorsport recommended increasing head bolt torque by 10 ft/lbs because they had found that when torquing down the intake, it could pull up the head just enough to cause a head gasket leak when combined with all the normal valve train activity. Fatigued head bolts could come into play also so when you do pull the heads and if you discover it's a gasket, it's a good idea to get new bolts and chase the threads to ensure you are getting a correct torque number when you put things back together. One other thing while the heads are off is to check for flatness.
Edit:
One other thing I'll throw out there is that considering the motor has been pumping the oil/antifreeze combo and it would be very wise to drop the pan and check the bearings anyway, you may want to drop the pan before removing your heads and draining the antifreeze from the block to see if you can
get some clues about the source of the antifreeze.
Bob,
I have taken your advise I am not running my engine anymore. I have not ran it since last Sunday's troubleshooting. I was going to go out and get the combustion leak tester this morning but then when I thought about it more I decided I was just proving what I already know by the coolant system leak testing and continued antifreeze in my oil without the engine running. So decided against the combustion tester.
With no smell of antifreeze in the exhaust I feel it is less likely a head gasket and the leading theory is a cracked block. Now have to decide how to proceed. Question I am asking myself, do I try and tackle this myself (have never done it before) or find someone I trust to do it?
Corey
Quote from: sg66 on February 28, 2021, 12:10:13 PM
1. Did you drain the anti-freeze by opening the drain cock at the bottom of the radiator or did you remove the plugs in the block? If you only drained the radiator then yes, around 1/2 the coolant capacity is still in the block.
2. If it is a head gasket, it could be very obvious or you may need to look closer. The key here is identify all the oil and anti-freeze holes and look closely for signs of anti-freeze traveling into an oil hole. Speaking from experience, I had the top ring sealing a cylinder fail which pressurized the cooling system which then pushed antifreeze into the oil. This happened a long time ago and I forget if the oil/antifreeze seals were directly compromised by the cylinder ring that but they probably were.
3. One oddball thing to consider because you said this started when you replaced intake bolts, I remember years ago being told that either Felpro or Ford Motorsport recommended increasing head bolt torque by 10 ft/lbs because they had found that when torquing down the intake, it could pull up the head just enough to cause a head gasket leak when combined with all the normal valve train activity. Fatigued head bolts could come into play also so when you do pull the heads and if you discover it's a gasket, it's a good idea to get new bolts and chase the threads to ensure you are getting a correct torque number when you put things back together. One other thing while the heads are off is to check for flatness.
I did just drain the antifreeze by the radiator petcock. I did not drain the block itself.
I can not say that this problem started right after I replaced the intake bolts. I noticed the issue when replacing the fuel pump and the only thing I had done to the engine was replace the carb and intake bolts so I assumed that is what caused it. It could just be a huge coincidence? Or maybe as you suggest it pulled up on the heads slightly allowing for a leak in the head gasket?
The only way to figure out what is happening would be to take the engine apart and have the block and heads pressure tested individually. I would start by removing the heads and having them pressure tested first. Maybe you will get lucky and not have to remove the engine from the car.
Since you have a lot of time and frustration in this engine so far. I recommend pulling it and tearing it down as there is a problem that you cannot isolate and it is even harder in the car. Pull it out, pull the heads find an engine builder.
This way you stop chasing the problem and start over. Hopefully the block isn't cracked but at least you will know. To continue changing intake gaskets is a waste of time and money IMO.
Greg,
I completely agree and that is now my plan. I just have to find a good engine builder I can trust. I have a few feelers out and am awaiting responses.
Corey
I will come look at it this week after work
Quote from: gt350shelb on February 28, 2021, 09:58:14 PM
I will come look at it this week after work
Wow Phil that would be incredible.
Corey
I just looked at a new head gasket and the bottom of a 4v head that I have.
The proximity of the oil drain back hole and the top water port from the block is within a 1/4" in the back of the engine, right where you have been having this issue.
It is entirely possible that the head gasket has deteriorated in that spot and it is weeping anti-freeze into the oil drain back hole which goes directly to the oil pan.
So I offer this to you as a ray of hope, that there is no crack in the block bore.
I can't comment on the percentage of likeliness of this as the source of your issue but have experienced myself head gaskets "rotting"and causing issues similar to this.
You can still pull out the engine if you like but after what I just saw, I'd pull the drivers side head off of the engine first. It could save you a lot of needless work and time, not to mention saving some money.
Someone needs to point me to the software where I can add arrows and text to pictures like this to aid in the identification of specific details in the picture? Anyone?
JD? You there? Got anything for this?
Not sure if this helps...
B= Bolt, W= water/coolant, O= Oil
Yellow oval is area that maybe leaking.
(Doug, if you have a Non-Mac computer then look for a program called "Paint" it is a very basic image viewing/modification program that is supplied on most computers, but you may need to look for it, they'd rather sell you one than point out the one you have already)
Phil will be a great help when he can be in the same place.
PERFECT! Exactly illustrates the potential issue. Thank you.
I do have paint. I guess I just don't know how to use it?
I am somewhat hesitant to offer another source of coolant leaking internally......I have seen a few (and currently own) small block coolant leak at the timing cover. Coolant can either leak externally or internally from that point. Just wanted to offer another potential leak. If you end up taking engine out/apart check that closely.
I parked a '84 1/2 5.0 years ago because I was too lazy to repair it correctly. Keep up the hard work.....you will find the source......
I just went through something similar with a Dodge engine. Recurring water in the oil. Pressure tests, smoke tests identified nothing. Turned out to be a bad water pump.
Any updates on this?
Not yet. I will post as soon as I hear anything.
Corey
I just received an update on my motor today. The good news is also the bad news. There were no cracks in the block, heads, intake or timing cover so the problem was not a crack. Unfortunately the gaskets get so damaged during disassembly it is impossible to determine where the leak actually was. So I will never know for sure what was causing the leak.
I was informed that the main and rod bearings were very worn on one side as if the crank was not true so rebuilding is definitely a good thing. I really want to be able to drive this car a thousand or so mile a year for the rest of my life and after this rebuild I feel like I will be good to go.
Corey
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on June 25, 2021, 04:52:48 PM
I was informed that the main and rod bearings were very worn on one side as if the crank was not true so rebuilding is definitely a good thing.
I'm guessing your rod bearings wore out on the top side? If so, that's what I would expect mainly due to combustion and compression strokes having more pressure on that side and with anti-freeze in the oil, the wear would be accelerated. My other guess is the bottom of the mains are worn? Same idea just switch where the most pressure is applied. Sounds like you caught it in time which is always a good thing.
Sounds like a quality rebuild should take care of it.
Hopefully you have it back running before summer is over, then I smell a "road trip" in the future 😎
331
Very much looking forward to road trip.
What is 331?
A bigger 302