I am preparing to pull my engine. Is it safe with the aluminum intake to attached one of these engine lift plates to pull the engine? If not what is the best way?
Thank you,
Corey
I had concerns with that on my big block. It worked fine.
Quote from: KR Convertible on March 01, 2021, 09:04:47 AM
I had concerns with that on my big block. It worked fine.
+1. it has been done by hundreds or thousands for many years. Just be sure the plate is bolted down good and not loose.
You will find some interesting videos on that subject
No worries on the aluminum intake
Thank you all!
it seems like the 4 little studs would break but they hold up up OK
Did you get a engine crane yet?
Quote from: Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas on March 01, 2021, 04:42:13 PM
it seems like the 4 little studs would break but they hold up up OK
Did you get a engine crane yet?
No not yet. May just rent one.
Corey
Corey,
The plate works fine. I would also suggest an engine tilter, as it makes engine removal and installation a one man job. I jacked the back end of my KR high in the air and was able to set everything with ease.
Don
gt350bp
I did not trust the welds on those Chinese plates so I made my own from angle iron.
(https://i.imgur.com/D74CNsJh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/S9kEDpwh.jpg)
That looks mighty substantial!
Corey
Quote from: 1109RWHP on March 01, 2021, 08:15:13 PM
I did not trust the welds on those Chinese plates so I made my own from angle iron.
(https://i.imgur.com/D74CNsJh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/S9kEDpwh.jpg)
Fist off, NICE DELRIN FUEL LOG! Where'd ya' get that idea form? ;)
The angle iron that you used will hold up a 10 story building. The issue, IF there is one, is that you are lifting 500 pounds on 5/16" soft steel studs on an aluminum casting which really isn't designed for that. An iron intake would do much better.
There have been many that pull an engine this way so it obviously is safe, so why not? Personally, I've never done it that way.
Looking at how the factory lift brackets are attached into the heads with even in the case of a 650 pound FE with a single 3/8" bolt into each head, that one looks worrysome as well but is a piece of cake other then you are leaning on the sides of the valve covers.
I like to bolt up to the bellhousing and one of the accessory bolt holes in the heads like for the alternator, etc. and use the balancer to aim the the engine in.
Don't forget that if you are pulling out the transmission bolted up, that's another 300 pounds, so with an FE, that's 1,000 pounds to reach over with the hoist with.
Coming out is not so much of an issue, threading the needle back in is another issue, but that's not for today, that's for tomorrow.
Try this in a Pantera with about 1/2" to spare. It's challenging and the engine goes in only one way and you need to find it.
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on March 01, 2021, 05:39:47 PM
Quote from: Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas on March 01, 2021, 04:42:13 PM
it seems like the 4 little studs would break but they hold up up OK
Did you get a engine crane yet?
No not yet. May just rent one.
Corey
One of the arms on your lift would work perfectly as a cherry picker. I've done it many times.
I and others use a Mac's pivot plate. You can adjust the angle as needed. It can be pricey if only using once. I use it numerous times a year.
Not out...but in...
https://youtu.be/w4iS2vaA79I (https://youtu.be/w4iS2vaA79I)
An FE is a shoehorn job but not as difficult as a Pantera is.
In the "Shelby" you need to get the car up in the front and way up in the rear. What happens is the tailshaft will drag on the floor and you need to make sure that you have a plug in it to keep the fluid from leaking out all over the floor.
I actually think that the rear of the cart needs to be hoisted along with the engine angled down. It's pretty easy to scratch up all of the nice engine compartment paint.
Corey, don't worry. That's an FE going in. Yours is a little block. It's child's play by comparison.
Notice in particular how the arm on the boom is bending "just a little"? ;D
That's something like 800 to 1,000 pounds in total but shows that one person can do it.
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on March 01, 2021, 08:17:23 PM
That looks mighty substantial!
Corey
^^^ Yes indeed 8) Nice work.
Corey, we recently did my 302 with that same method, no issues (Iron intake out, aluminum in) The fabricated plate was supplied by a buddy - but it may have been USA made, from back before everything was sourced from the Pacific Rim ???
Good luck.
(https://i.imgur.com/2fx5dvQ.jpg)
This is another situation when you ask 100 guys how to do something you will 100 different ways to do it. The plate you showed is the plate all race shops, repair shops use for pulling and installing engines. It has been used 100s of thousands of times with out problems. There was a test many years ago what the pull out strength of a stud in an aluminum manifold I believe it was around 500 pounds each stud. We do some quick 3rd grade math 500x 4= 2000 lbs that's the safety number. Your small block is about 500 lbs so well within safe limits of using the plate. The key here for a safe install looking at the plate is the large holes and slots for various manifolds, make sure for safety you use some large flat washers to insure proper weight distribution on each stud not allowing the weight to be concentrated on a little nut. You can do it! Good Luck!
For me, the front of the car with the engine removed was high enough. By getting the back end way up in the air, the engine will slip in easier and need less boom, therefore less bending. Slide the Hooker Header in through the radiator opening with engine about 3-4" off the motor mounts. Once the headers were on, I bolted the engine block mounts into place and dropped the engine in place. I did trim the drivers side shock tower reinforcing about 1/8" when I prepared the engine compartment for paint. Just enough clearance to prevent front header bolt interference.
I haven't seen anyone do an FE with the accessories installed? That's how the factory did it.
This how it is done now.
(https://i.imgur.com/xwC2bm8h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6ie0RKAh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fMlyvDCh.jpg)
Thanks for the pics I left out a word on how it is done. That key word is VINTAGE engines, to me that new stuff looks like FRANKENSTEINS wife not interested in the least. I will leave that new stuff for the younger crowd we can appreciate all that power, just not that weird to my eyes new stuff!.
Quote from: shelbydoug on March 06, 2021, 09:48:56 AM
I haven't seen anyone do an FE with the accessories installed? That's how the factory did it.
If you use factory lifting brackets you can do engine trans and accessory's in about 5 mins
Quote from: gt350shelb on March 07, 2021, 08:16:03 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on March 06, 2021, 09:48:56 AM
I haven't seen anyone do an FE with the accessories installed? That's how the factory did it.
If you use factory lifting brackets you can do engine trans and accessory's in about 5 mins
I have the factory brackets. Can the fan stay on during installation? Looks like the angle of the drive train is about 70 degrees? That means either I need a pit under the car or the car needs to be jacked up of the ground about 3 feet?
All that oil in the pan is going to wind up in the lifter gallery?
Engine is out. I did not anticipate having to remove all of the front fiberglass but it was necessary in order to get the lift in far enough. Other than that it all went very smooth.
Nice job.
Good luck with the diagnosing and getting it back together/running great/hitting the road (once the salt is all gone)
Quote from: Corey Bowcutt on March 07, 2021, 10:06:51 AM
Engine is out. I did not anticipate having to remove all of the front fiberglass but it was necessary in order to get the lift in far enough. Other than that it all went very smooth.
Looks good
👍
Too many gotta have doo dads for car work today. I have only ever used a length of chain to yank and install engines. Run a bolt through the link and screw it into an exhaust bolt hole at the back on one side and the front on the other. If you are pulling just the engine put the hook in the center. Engine and trans put the hook further back.
Buy youself a Harbor Freight foldable engine hoist - They are about $160 so you'll really only be into it $60 by the time you rent one twice for $50. Or you can go cheap like I did when Harbor Freight wasn't around yet - 2 4x4s and an 8' 4x8. Nailed the 4x4s from the garage floor to the sides of a couple joists then span it with the 4x8. Wrap a chain around it and get a good $30 ratchet cable hoist (or chain fall) and you're done. I haven't used this setup in 25 years but it's still in the garage and I'm going to press it back into service to pull the engine from our 4x4 Excursion since the regular hoist won't reach high enough.