Beautiful car. I am surprised it didn't get posted before I got to it.
(https://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/1617912555e614512f40384ce298Top-Down.jpg?w=620&resize=620%2C414)
BaT Essentials
Lot #48552
Seller: Warrenlu
Location: Kirkland, Washington
Chassis: 9F03M481489
72k Miles Shown, TMU
351ci Windsor V8
FMX Select-Shift Automatic Transmission
Conventional Rear Axle w/ 3.00:1 Gearing
Black Jade
White Soft Top
White Knit Vinyl Upholstery
Woodgrain Trim
Power Front Disc Brakes
SelectAire Air Conditioning
Power Steering
Lucas Fog Lights
Deluxe Marti Report
Build Sheet
SAAC Paperwork
Spare Parts and Components
Private Party Or Dealer: Dealer
This 1969 Shelby Mustang GT350 convertible was first sold by Larson Ford in White Plains, New York, and it was reportedly acquired by the current owner in 2014. The car has been refinished in its factory Black Jade over white vinyl, and power is provided by a 351ci Windsor V8 paired with an FMX automatic transmission and a conventional rear end equipped with 3.00:1 gearing. Factory features include a roll bar, a white convertible top, woodgrain trim, an AM/FM radio, air conditioning, Lucas fog lights with lens covers, power steering, and power-assisted front disc brakes. This GT350 is now offered on dealer consignment with a build sheet, a Deluxe Marti Report, SAAC paperwork including and SAAC registry certificate, manuals, service records, spare parts, and a clean Washington title.
The Deluxe Marti report denotes that this is one of just 47 Shelby convertibles produced for the model year in Black Jade (65), and one of just 29 produced with this exterior and interior color combination. The selling dealer states that the exterior was refinished in the 1980s, and equipment includes white side stripes and a white convertible top, along with NACA-style hood inlets, Lucas fog lights with lens covers, color-matched mirror caps, sequential tail lights, a padded roll bar, and front and rear spoilers.
Shelby 15″ wheels wear Cobra-logo center caps and 215/70 BFGoodrich Radial T/A tires. A spare set of period Firestone Blue Oval tires are included in the sale and shown in the gallery below. Power-assisted steering and front disc brakes were optioned from the factory.
The interior features high-back front seats with white knit vinyl upholstery (FWA) as well as matching treatments for the rear bench and door panels. A factory AM/FM stereo is retained in the center stack, and the car is equipped with SelectAire air conditioning that has been converted to R134a.
Instrumentation includes a 140-mph speedometer, a tachometer, and gauges for fuel level, oil pressure, coolant temperature, and amperage. The five-digit odometer shows just over 72k miles, though actual mileage is unknown.
The 351ci Windsor V8 is topped with a stock aluminum intake single Holley four barrel carburetor, and is equipped with a ram-air intake assembly and Cobra-branded finned aluminum valve covers. Power is sent to the rear wheels through an FMX automatic transmission and a conventional rear end equipped with 3.00:1 gearing.
(https://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/161791245312f40384ce2988Original-Build-Sheet-scaled.jpg?w=479&resize=576%2C746)
(https://bringatrailer.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/04/1969_shelby_mustang_gt350_convertible_16212529923f24deee1IMG_3744.jpg?w=577&resize=577%2C620)
Better not let SWMBO see this one as it is identical to 2177. ;D
Link to the auction: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-shelby-mustang-gt350-convertible/ (https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-shelby-mustang-gt350-convertible/)
Not usually a big fan of white interiors, but think it looks very nice with that exterior color.
Beautiful car. I love how well the hood fits the fenders, and the lowered look. it makes me think about lowering mine.
Cool car.He sure does say all correct a lot in the vid.spoiler?
The reproduction vin tag on driver's door doesn't seem to be hurting the bidding.
Quote from: silverton_ford on May 20, 2021, 10:16:56 AM
Link to the auction: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-shelby-mustang-gt350-convertible/ (https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-shelby-mustang-gt350-convertible/)
Whoops 😬
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on May 20, 2021, 06:21:29 PM
Beautiful car. I love how well the hood fits the fenders, and the lowered look. it makes me think about lowering mine.
I found not running any springs makes my hood almost perfect. We actually have the gaps too tight from the hood to the fenders but it looks great to me.
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on May 21, 2021, 08:07:50 AM
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on May 20, 2021, 06:21:29 PM
Beautiful car. I love how well the hood fits the fenders, and the lowered look. it makes me think about lowering mine.
I found not running any springs makes my hood almost perfect. We actually have the gaps too tight from the hood to the fenders but it looks great to me.
don't recall but we put 67 or 68 springs on, less tension but allows the hood to stay open
I could live with a prop rod if it allowed me the fit Gary's hood has.
Quote from: FL SAAC on May 21, 2021, 08:31:27 AM
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on May 21, 2021, 08:07:50 AM
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on May 20, 2021, 06:21:29 PM
Beautiful car. I love how well the hood fits the fenders, and the lowered look. it makes me think about lowering mine.
I found not running any springs makes my hood almost perfect. We actually have the gaps too tight from the hood to the fenders but it looks great to me.
don't recall but we put 67 or 68 springs on, less tension but allows the hood to stay open
I have used the light tension springs on both my 68 and 70 Shelbys. They bow somewhat with the springs. Many years ago I left the light tension springs hooked up on my vert when it was stored for months at a friends house. When I went to see my car the hood was BOWED. Freaked me out. Took the springs off and the hood settled back down in due time. The light tension can be installed at shows by hand and also taken off of course with help from someone holding the hood all the way up. Here is my old 68 with no springs. sits flat in the back. With springs-slightly raised in the rear of hood and slight bow. Both pics no springs.
Quote from: 2112 on May 21, 2021, 11:00:49 AM
I could live with a prop rod if it allowed me the fit Gary's hood has.
worst bowed hood belongs to my friends GT500. It actually looks better in the pic than it actually is(DS worse)
I'm thinking about buying a pair of these hinges that relieve the tension from the hood, but provide a spring effect to hold the hood up. My car is just a driver. I'm getting tired of fiddling with the chains. The springs warp my hood also.
https://www.eddiemotorsports.com/product-p/ms149-81.htm
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on May 21, 2021, 11:31:03 AM
I'm thinking about buying a pair of these hinges that relieve the tension from the hood, but provide a spring effect to hold the hood up. My car is just a driver. I'm getting tired of fiddling with the chains. The springs warp my hood also.
https://www.eddiemotorsports.com/product-p/ms149-81.htm
other than being polished (chromed), that is really cool.
Thank goodness we have been warned that it can cause reproductive harm if you live in the state of California.
Billet aluminum....
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on May 21, 2021, 11:31:03 AM
I'm thinking about buying a pair of these hinges that relieve the tension from the hood, but provide a spring effect to hold the hood up. My car is just a driver. I'm getting tired of fiddling with the chains. The springs warp my hood also.
https://www.eddiemotorsports.com/product-p/ms149-81.htm
Like I said I have been putting on the light tension springs for years on my car or use the prop rod. The springs can be put on by hand and I suspect you would never have a problem at a show getting someone to hold the hood up while you put the springs on. Some have used a custom chain link to keep the hood up(Bob?). I wouldn't spend the money on those non original hinges and have to hope everything lines up with those new hinges like it does with the factory ones. I believe there was a factory bulletin about using a Maverick(?) prop rod and pull the springs? I have seen some on other year Shelbys and I think the one I have and never used was sent to me by Larry Quay. Gary
I've tried the really light tension springs, and my hood still warps. I use the chains, and sometimes one link seems to get caught on the seam in the brake booster, and it prevents the hood from opening. My brake booster paint is also getting chipped. The 69 hood hinges were changed from 68 - I think the hood mounting area changed in 69.
I rarely open my hood nowadays at car cruises, or at home. I used to like to open the hood on my 68 shelby after a drive to let the hot air escape, but it was a big block.
great looking stance
This Shelby was on Ebay May of 2012. The seller at that time was Jim W. from Vermont. Odometer was 70,401 miles. Per seller's remarks,"Owned 35 years, original engine replaced at 10K miles, minor front damage in 1970, completely disassembled for restoration 1981 to 1984, engine rebuild in 1998."
Looked like a fun driver, but not surprised at the outcome on this one.
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on May 21, 2021, 02:39:01 PM
I've tried the really light tension springs, and my hood still warps. I use the chains, and sometimes one link seems to get caught on the seam in the brake booster, and it prevents the hood from opening. My brake booster paint is also getting chipped. The 69 hood hinges were changed from 68 - I think the hood mounting area changed in 69.
I rarely open my hood nowadays at car cruises, or at home. I used to like to open the hood on my 68 shelby after a drive to let the hot air escape, but it was a big block.
Pull the light tension springs off when you close the hood. They come off by hand but you will need help holding the hood. Use a prop rod to keep the hood open when you do not want to install the springs. I believe Bob Gaines uses chains so maybe he can shed some light on how he uses them. THe springs have not been on my car in a couple of years. In my garage I use a prop rod. At a show I will install the springs and take them off when the show is over. Gary
5s386-really good info. and certainly not mentioned in the auction listing-which, btw, I thought was poorly prepared. I would have been a bit perturbed learning on day 3, after having bid to 100k, that the engine was from a '74-a '74 what we were never told. But, you could buy a date code correct engine after the auction for another 5k. All in w/o the replacement 351 was close to 120k. Add in the cost of the replacement 351 as well as the other inevitable costs to complete the project (like the missing quarter panel bades!), you'd be at 150k w/o breaking a sweat. Not even close to worth it imo and nowhere near market-again, imo. I'm guessing the buyer doesn't care... or just looks at things a bit differently than I.
Quote from: Survivor on May 27, 2021, 10:04:59 AM
5s386-really good info. and certainly not mentioned in the auction listing-which, btw, I thought was poorly prepared. I would have been a bit perturbed learning on day 3, after having bid to 100k, that the engine was from a '74-a '74 what we were never told. But, you could buy a date code correct engine after the auction for another 5k. All in w/o the replacement 351 was close to 120k. Add in the cost of the replacement 351 as well as the other inevitable costs to complete the project (like the missing quarter panel bades!), you'd be at 150k w/o breaking a sweat. Not even close to worth it imo and nowhere near market-again, imo. I'm guessing the buyer doesn't care... or just looks at things a bit differently than I.
Can elaborate on the "missing quarter panel bades"? Thanks. Driver cars bring more than you usually expect on BaT in many cases. I could show you non Shelbys of the same year you would SYH on at the final auction price with known issues you could even see in the pics. I wonder what was on the front of that 74 engine since the front of a 69 351 2V/4V is a one year only setup. Gary
I have seen at a car sow a guy forget he has the chain type on his can and go to shut the hood and CRACK!
Mis-spelling. Meant to say quarter panel badges. My understanding is that convertibles received the Shelby badge/emblem on the quarter panel.
Quote from: Survivor on May 27, 2021, 11:43:57 AM
Mis-spelling. Meant to say quarter panel badges. My understanding is that convertibles received the Shelby badge/emblem on the quarter panel.
Well it has been a discussed topic on SAAC forum 1.0. My opinion(first given to me by Tony Branda early 80s) is that it was a running change as in possibly no early cars, then the snakes came and then the snakes/Shelby emblems. Case in point are these 2 GT500s(the vert owner I think is a forum member and original owner). A silver jade vert pre F-60-15 tire car with snakes only and a later F-60-15 FB car in pastel gray with both. Both at an Indianapolis dealership in 1969. BTW the vert emblems are DIFFERENT and harder to find than the FB roof emblems. I bought up all the original ones I could find and it wasn't many so far. My June drag pack GT500 had grill emblems mounted on the roof and they were mounted into barrel clips. Never seen that before or after. https://www.flickr.com/photos/bossmustang/albums/72157609155163577
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on May 27, 2021, 07:50:03 AM
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on May 21, 2021, 02:39:01 PM
I've tried the really light tension springs, and my hood still warps. I use the chains, and sometimes one link seems to get caught on the seam in the brake booster, and it prevents the hood from opening. My brake booster paint is also getting chipped. The 69 hood hinges were changed from 68 - I think the hood mounting area changed in 69.
I rarely open my hood nowadays at car cruises, or at home. I used to like to open the hood on my 68 shelby after a drive to let the hot air escape, but it was a big block.
Pull the light tension springs off when you close the hood. They come off by hand but you will need help holding the hood. Use a prop rod to keep the hood open when you do not want to install the springs. I believe Bob Gaines uses chains so maybe he can shed some light on how he uses them. THe springs have not been on my car in a couple of years. In my garage I use a prop rod. At a show I will install the springs and take them off when the show is over. Gary
Gary, I have used a length of chain in the past to go in place of the spring to hold the hood open to eliminate the springs that put too much tension on some hoods and causing a bow. The extensive bow is not a universal problem but just so on some cars. Some of the cars I have had it and others didn't. I learned to hold up the hood with my shoulder while disconnecting the factory large diameter hood springs with the help of a lever tool. I would leave the disconnected springs hanging from the hinge while the hood was down and reconnect when I was leaving the hood up. I got so that I could do the procedure on both hood hinges by myself in around a minute. I didn't need to do this on every 69/70 Shelby that I have had over the years.
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on May 27, 2021, 12:06:51 PM
Quote from: Survivor on May 27, 2021, 11:43:57 AM
Mis-spelling. Meant to say quarter panel badges. My understanding is that convertibles received the Shelby badge/emblem on the quarter panel.
Well it has been a discussed topic on SAAC forum 1.0. My opinion(first given to me by Tony Branda early 80s) is that it was a running change as in possibly no early cars, then the snakes came and then the snakes/Shelby emblems. Case in point are these 2 GT500s(the vert owner I think is a forum member and original owner). A silver jade vert pre F-60-15 tire car with snakes only and a later F-60-15 FB car in pastel gray with both. Both at an Indianapolis dealership in 1969. BTW the vert emblems are DIFFERENT and harder to find than the FB roof emblems. I bought up all the original ones I could find and it wasn't many so far. My June drag pack GT500 had grill emblems mounted on the roof and they were mounted into barrel clips. Never seen that before or after. https://www.flickr.com/photos/bossmustang/albums/72157609155163577
I don't know for a fact but believe that not all emblems were installed at the factory. I believe many were left to be installed by the dealer. I had heard stories of the emblems being stolen for souvenirs on route from the factory to the dealer which is why the procedure was changed to dealer install. I am not sure how valid that story is but it is a reasonable explanation IMO. The dealer choice was what determined if just the snake emblem , the snake emblem and the separate different name plate or just the name plate was used regardless of if fastback or convertible. I saw too many different varieties of usage back in the day and on later day survivor cars to think that there was only one way they were done back when new. The dealer installation is the best explanation for the variations IMO.I personally have always just liked the snake emblem with no name plate as my variation of choice.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on May 27, 2021, 01:00:59 PM
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on May 27, 2021, 07:50:03 AM
Quote from: 69 GT350 Vert on May 21, 2021, 02:39:01 PM
I've tried the really light tension springs, and my hood still warps. I use the chains, and sometimes one link seems to get caught on the seam in the brake booster, and it prevents the hood from opening. My brake booster paint is also getting chipped. The 69 hood hinges were changed from 68 - I think the hood mounting area changed in 69.
I rarely open my hood nowadays at car cruises, or at home. I used to like to open the hood on my 68 shelby after a drive to let the hot air escape, but it was a big block.
Pull the light tension springs off when you close the hood. They come off by hand but you will need help holding the hood. Use a prop rod to keep the hood open when you do not want to install the springs. I believe Bob Gaines uses chains so maybe he can shed some light on how he uses them. THe springs have not been on my car in a couple of years. In my garage I use a prop rod. At a show I will install the springs and take them off when the show is over. Gary
Gary, I have used a length of chain in the past to go in place of the spring to hold the hood open to eliminate the springs that put too much tension on some hoods and causing a bow. The extensive bow is not a universal problem but just so on some cars. Some of the cars I have had it and others didn't. I learned to hold up the hood with my shoulder while disconnecting the factory large diameter hood springs with the help of a lever tool. I would leave the disconnected springs hanging from the hinge while the hood was down and reconnect when I was leaving the hood up. I got so that I could do the procedure on both hood hinges by myself in around a minute. I didn't need to do this on every 69/70 Shelby that I have had over the years.
Thanks Bob. Since I am not being judged at shows I use the light tension springs which I can put on by hand with no tool. What tool do you use on the factory springs? My tool over the years was a large screw driver. Have to ever used a Maverick prop rod? I was given one 30 years ago but never figured out where to mount it without more hardware or mod work which is a non starter. One day a few years ago I took my car out for a drive and kept hearing a clunking noise under the hood. Yep, the low tension springs were hanging there from the hinges bouncing around. LOL. My car when bought in 1985 had the factory hood springs and looked pretty good. Hood fits better without any. Gary
Looks like now it's on eBay...
I thought it sold on BAT?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/154489767975
Buyer must have failed to follow through.
Also was on the week before for 137,500.00 so my mind thinks the seller bought it and paid the 5K? https://www.ebay.com/itm/154480685406?nma=true&si=nV8iKKly2ilykqA0ABGyHW1f2Bg%253D&orig_cvip=true&nordt=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557
Not even a little surprised
That auction was funny from start
Ditto the previous response-this is what makes the auction/auction bidding process maddening. I also felt the initial listing was "suspect". Too bad...
THere is a 66 Shelby GT350 on BaT. Hertz car. Jumped from 15K to 125K in the first hour of the auction? THe bidder has bnid on a few cars but never bought one. I am NOT ACCUSING anyone of anything and the high bidder has bid on all different seller's cars(I've seen patterns the other way) so it probably is an honest bid. It wouldn't be hard for a friend who puts a car on a site to say hey, I got a reserve of 140K on my car. Can you bid 120K? It happens. I know for a fact. So how do you combat that? Well you bid to your max and hold to that. I have no problem with "shill" bidders as you should know they exist. I wonder if on some auctions the sellers just take the chance thinking they have a fish on the line and then the fish breaks it and they are stuck with the commission. They can afford it especially if the car is worth much more and they misread the audience at that time.
Stating the obvious here-but, several very wise and knowledgable pp in the hooby have told me do not, under any circumstances (usually), bid on/buy a car w/o first seeing and inspecting it first hand-or pay a trusted ally to do so. You may lose a few good ones (and several bad ones along the way) but in the end it usually works to your advantage-esp. financially. I've had to remind myself of that wisdom several times in my ongoing search for a '69/'70 vert.
I kinda, accidentally bought a car off BaT based on pics and description only. (I was convinced the the reserve was higher and BaT kicked in the difference to make the sale go thru according to seller).
Turned out to be the nicest Vintage Mustang I have ever owned. It was everything the pics showed and more. It was also 1/3rd the cost of a Shelby so there is that.
YMMV. 8)
I messaged the seller on ebay, he claims that the sale did not complete, hard to think that someone would have to pay the 5% fee, and then back down? Very strange. The fee is charged to your card the moment the auction ends, I don't think you can avoid paying the fee if you win an auction.
When I asked about the '74 engine that's currently in the car, he kept bringing up the correct date code block "available" for an additional $4500. Seemed weird to me.
Looks like the seller also listed it on Craig's list...
https://seattle.craigslist.org/est/cto/d/kirkland-1969-ford-mustang-shelby-gt350/7335361914.html
TOB
He pushes the tires but those tires are not worth anything. He pushes a 4500 engine. I wouldn't pay 4500 for a rebuild 69 351W. He should get the engine and install it but he won't. He is a dealer. I still think it was worth close to what he is asking. There is a BIG difference between a #1-2 car and a #3-4 car and should also be price wise as to get to #1-2 status means spending a LOT of time disassembling and restoring "wear" components and such. fixing paint issues etc. Dealers many times push a shiny painted car with nice wheels on it as show/museum car prices. Just my observation.
Looks like an okay car for the money, I doubt you could find one that presents as well for much cheper.
The car sits too low to drive, but it sure looks good down in the weeds. I always wonder if cars like this one for sale had extensive rust repair or collision repair. I'd want to have it looked at first up on a lift.
Quote from: 427hunter on June 13, 2021, 12:03:05 PM
Looks like an okay car for the money, I doubt you could find one that presents as well for much cheper.
The money isn't bad for the car but like bob said what is it like underneath in the pics that were ont provided in the auction? If it did sell did the buyer go to get it and saw all that and walked away from 5K-his commission paid to BaT)?
Pet peeves I have of sellers:
Showing a part but not stating if correct or not-space savor in this car the pics conveniently do not show the marked tire size which is easy to read. cheap parts-20 dollar cheapo trunk mat in car screams car maintained on the cheap. Couldn't spring for the 100 dollar burtex one? Jack not assembled right in trunk(READ the jack instructions!). wrong J-hook and D5 inflator so at one time I bet the whole trunk assembly was gone
Wrong hardware(check out the shock tower outer cover bolts(Button head and painted?)
CAUTION FAN sticker :o
Now what bothers me is the BaT shots of the underside(I think I asked for some. He shows the 4 ribs on the pass side front pan but CUTS out the rear portion on the DS pic. On purpose as it appears a section was welded in. Trunk sound deadener doesn't look right on both quarter panels . BUT it appears to be a solid car going back over the pics. Not every car survived rust free but you want a structurally sound car. Sill a no more than a #2-#3 car in my book by the pics but say somewhere between a 2 and a 3. 116K for a 3 then subtract 10 percent for auto(-20 but add 10 for air). 162K for a #2 so between 105K to 146K if you want to use Hagerty as a tool. So I thought 113K was on the low side. I was thinking 125-135K but what do I know. These cars do not change hands that often and are hard to track. Gary
It's a crap shoot buying a car even if you have it inspected. Bret inspected my 69 convertible pre-purchase, but I don't know if he rolled on the ground to inspect the floor pans, rear quarters, trunk drops, etc. to determine if the car had rust repair or panel replacement. I know he verified it was a real Shelby with no vin issues. I still don't know what vin numbers are under the front fenders - they have never been off.
Fortunately, my car lived its entire life in San Marino, CA, and it is a rust-free car with original panels. I lucked out with this car, but was unlucky on 3 other cars I bought in the past. I wouldn't have my car without Bret, and I am thankful for his service. He wrestled it off a guy named Wade who was extremely difficult to deal with. Wade bought the car to flip in 2008 off the California owner with the original pink slip showing ownership since 1973. 2008 is when the economy tanked, and I got a pretty good deal on it.