...spraying black crinkle paint on a set of original closed letter valve covers!
Outside temp 110F, not something us PNW'ers are used to, but worked out great for this, didn't have to sneak them into the oven.
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/236-280621171128.jpeg)
Nice! Good idea! ;D
BTDT w/the oven... And, man is the dishwasher great for some small parts..
Intellectual curiosity drives me to ask how you will expose the silver on the valve covers once dry. Acetone possibly or? I genuinely don't know the methodology but I am curious.
I'm going with "What is Sandpaper Alex, for $500.00"! I've done it, but far from being a 'pro'...
Quote from: deathsled on June 28, 2021, 11:03:13 PM
Intellectual curiosity drives me to ask how you will expose the silver on the valve covers once dry. Acetone possibly or? I genuinely don't know the methodology but I am curious.
I usually start with a solvent and light touch first, Gumout works pretty well, then use fine sandpaper as needed. I gave the fins and letters a light wipe with WD-40 before painting so they should cleanup pretty easily, at least they did the last time...
Nice work Dave, post a finished photo for us too. Thanks, Denny
Quote from: deathsled on June 28, 2021, 11:03:13 PM
Intellectual curiosity drives me to ask how you will expose the silver on the valve covers once dry. Acetone possibly or? I genuinely don't know the methodology but I am curious.
I've finished the fins and letters prior to paint. Once I got the fin and letter finish I want, I then masked those areas and used a very sharp Xacto knife or razor blade to trim off any excess masking tape.
After the valve cover is painted, I removed the tape and finished off any rough edges with the Xacto knife, razor blade, or sand paper, depending on the situation.
Only once did I paint the whole valve cover, except for the steel parts. Removing paint from the fins and letters was too much work.
I've used an old oven to get the crinkle effect, but have also had good results using a hair dryer on a high heat and low air flow setting.
I hope this helps those wanting to refinish solid letter valve covers and reproduction T oil pans, should you want the repro oil pan to match the valve covers.
Steve
I have always removed the filler tube and plug wire holders and used a belt sander.
Thanks for the comments, goes to show there are multiple ways to do this.
This was a simple repaint so no need to remove the wire holders and filler tube. I've tried the tape masking method mentioned which also works well. Last time I tried wiping the fins/letters with light oil like WD-40, which prevents the paint from sticking very well, so the paint was much easier to remove. Guess I'll see if that worked as well this time...
I used plain old lacquer thinner and a rag barely moistened and elbow grease... Not too bad of a job. :)
TOB
Quote from: 6S1568 on June 29, 2021, 07:26:21 AM
Nice work Dave, post a finished photo for us too. Thanks, Denny
Thanks Denny, here they are finished...
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/236-020721174206.jpeg)
They look great Dave
Now that's impressive.
Nice job Dave, better than NEW I'd say! Let me know when to send mine over, he he he Denny
Quote from: s2ms on July 02, 2021, 05:46:11 PM
Quote from: 6S1568 on June 29, 2021, 07:26:21 AM
Nice work Dave, post a finished photo for us too. Thanks, Denny
Thanks Denny, here they are finished...
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/236-020721174206.jpeg)
VERY NICE!
Thanks guys!
Quote from: 6S1568 on July 03, 2021, 11:08:14 AM
Nice job Dave, better than NEW I'd say! Let me know when to send mine over, he he he Denny
Sure thing Denny, next time it's 110F out there send them over... ;)
Hi Dave,
Nice work. Care to share your recipe? Did you mask the fins or just removed the paint before putting in the 110 Degrees F ? How did you remove? I can see you masked off the tube and plug wire brackets, but not the fins. Or am I blind?
Thanks
Cory
Thanks Cory. I did not mask the fins or letters, no need to call Hovander for an eye exam. I just lightly wiped the fins and letters with WD-40 to prevent the paint from sticking well and sprayed directly in the 110F heat, paint started to krinkle very quickly. There were some small scratches that I wanted to clean up anyway so removed the fin/letter paint starting with 180 grit sandpaper followed by 400 grit. IMO the WD-40 definitely helped the paint come off easier.
Quote from: s2ms on July 05, 2021, 01:07:27 PM
Thanks Cory. I did not mask the fins or letters, no need to call Hovander for an eye exam. I just lightly wiped the fins and letters with WD-40 to prevent the paint from sticking well and sprayed directly in the 110F heat, paint started to krinkle very quickly. There were some small scratches that I wanted to clean up anyway so removed the fin/letter paint starting with 180 grit sandpaper followed by 400 grit. IMO the WD-40 definitely helped the paint come off easier.
400 grit is too fine compared to originals and NOS IMO. 250 grit would be the most to go if you want a factory finish. It all depends on if you want a personalized look or a factory look.
Thanks Bob, I was wondering about that. I'll get some 250 and "rough it up".
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/236-280621171128.jpeg)
(https://www.saac.com/forum/gallery/236-020721174206.jpeg)
I like the sharp transition between the paint and the sanded letters and fins. However, it looks like the crinkle finish is more a sandy, granular finish. Might the WD-40 have contaminated the crinkle agent?
Steve
The wrinkle texture is effected by the amount of paint in a given coat , number of coats, direction paint is applied (at least three directions at right angle ) and heat. Silicone contamination could effect a local area but typically not consistently on the overall surface.
Quote from: 8T03S1425 on July 05, 2021, 10:09:38 PM
I like the sharp transition between the paint and the sanded letters and fins. However, it looks like the crinkle finish is more a sandy, granular finish. Might the WD-40 have contaminated the crinkle agent?
Steve
Quote from: Bob Gaines on July 06, 2021, 12:50:22 AM
The wrinkle texture is effected by the amount of paint in a given coat , number of coats, direction paint is applied (at least three directions at right angle ) and heat. Silicone contamination could effect a local area but typically not consistently on the overall surface.
Steve,
I don't think the WD-40 had any effect on any of the surrounding surfaces. The paint definitely has a nice wrinkle, just didn't show up well in the posted photos. While I was very pleased with how these turned out for my purposes, they are not perfect, mainly due to some inconsistencies, especially between the fins/letters where I didn't get the paint evenly thick enough. Bob hit the nail on the head, crinkle quality is very sensitive to all the things he mentioned. It was very tricky to get the coat thickness really even, especially given this was a quicky project painting on a flat surface, I was surprised how well they did turn out. I think if I was going after the best possible finish I would have them powder-coated.
Dave
Quote from: s2ms on July 06, 2021, 01:19:45 AM
Quote from: 8T03S1425 on July 05, 2021, 10:09:38 PM
I like the sharp transition between the paint and the sanded letters and fins. However, it looks like the crinkle finish is more a sandy, granular finish. Might the WD-40 have contaminated the crinkle agent?
Steve
Quote from: Bob Gaines on July 06, 2021, 12:50:22 AM
The wrinkle texture is effected by the amount of paint in a given coat , number of coats, direction paint is applied (at least three directions at right angle ) and heat. Silicone contamination could effect a local area but typically not consistently on the overall surface.
Steve,
I don't think the WD-40 had any effect on any of the surrounding surfaces. The paint definitely has a nice wrinkle, just didn't show up well in the posted photos. While I was very pleased with how these turned out for my purposes, they are not perfect, mainly due to some inconsistencies, especially between the fins/letters where I didn't get the paint evenly thick enough. Bob hit the nail on the head, crinkle quality is very sensitive to all the things he mentioned. It was very tricky to get the coat thickness really even, especially given this was a quicky project painting on a flat surface, I was surprised how well they did turn out. I think if I was going after the best possible finish I would have them powder-coated.
Dave
I wouldn't sweat it. Many/Most NOS and assemblyline originals were not perfect in every way when new back in the day.
They look great to me, nice job, and thanks for sharing the techniques!