A friend of mine's brother bought a 65 K code long block engine, and yes, it is a hipo engine. All the correct components are there including the brindle mark on the crank. He is has removed the entire rotating assembly and is only using the block to build some crazy high rpm engine for his kit cobra (do not ask me why...I'm still scratching my head). The components removed are;
pistons
rods
crankshaft
hatchet weight
timing chain
cam
solid lifters
He is thinking of selling them and has no idea what they are worth. So......opinions are appreciated.
I am also posting this question on the Vintage Mustang Forum.
He'd be much better off with a Boss 302 service block. That's what I used for my 347 back in the mid 90's. As far as what it's worth, good luck on used parts w/o have any idea of wear & tear, sizing, etc.
It's not the block that makes it a hipo, it the components that he actually removed🙄
The block is identical to a standard run-of-the-mill 289 block.
So your friends brother is using a standard 289 block. So I agree with PMASG.
Such a shame
He should go another route
Quote from: 69mach351w on August 18, 2021, 08:15:11 PM
The block is identical to a standard run-of-the-mill 289 block.
But as an assembly it has heavier main caps. And if I remember the alloy it's cast from is different - more nickel in it.
The Mexican block is truly just a basic cast iron block with heavy caps.
Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on August 18, 2021, 10:18:06 PM
Quote from: 69mach351w on August 18, 2021, 08:15:11 PM
The block is identical to a standard run-of-the-mill 289 block.
But as an assembly it has heavier main caps. And if I remember the alloy it's cast from is different - more nickel in it.
The Mexican block is truly just a basic cast iron block with heavy caps.
Si senor!
Quote from: PrettyMuchAShelbyGuy on August 18, 2021, 11:52:25 PM
Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on August 18, 2021, 10:18:06 PM
Quote from: 69mach351w on August 18, 2021, 08:15:11 PM
The block is identical to a standard run-of-the-mill 289 block.
But as an assembly it has heavier main caps. And if I remember the alloy it's cast from is different - more nickel in it.
The Mexican block is truly just a basic cast iron block with heavy caps.
Si senor!
But, the
block is still a standard block, no extra nickel in the BLOCK. surprised you 289 hipo guys don't know this. We're not talking about the main caps, just the block.
That's what bsolo66 is talking about...the block ;)
Quote from: bsolo66 on August 18, 2021, 02:39:48 PM
A friend of mine's brother bought a 65 K code long block engine, and yes, it is a hipo engine. All the correct components are there including the brindle mark on the crank. He is has removed the entire rotating assembly and is only using the block to build some crazy high rpm engine for his kit cobra (do not ask me why...I'm still scratching my head). The components removed are;
pistons
rods
crankshaft
hatchet weight
timing chain
cam
solid lifters
He is thinking of selling them and has no idea what they are worth. So......opinions are appreciated.
I am also posting this question on the Vintage Mustang Forum.
Hipo and standard BLOCK are same. Caps are different.
Also, even though the block is as a standard block, it could be more valuable if he finds a stamped vin number. Someone with that car may pay for the original block/motor.
If you know anything about metallurgy you know that more nickel is not desirable in an engine block. If anyone says what you just said you know for sure they know nothing about what they are talking about.
At least that's what I was told by the retired chief metallurgist of the Ford Cleveland foundry.
Quote from: 98SVT - was 06GT on August 18, 2021, 10:18:06 PM
Quote from: 69mach351w on August 18, 2021, 08:15:11 PM
The block is identical to a standard run-of-the-mill 289 block.
But as an assembly it has heavier main caps. And if I remember the alloy it's cast from is different - more nickel in it.
The Mexican block is truly just a basic cast iron block with heavy caps.
Royce,
Curious: Why then did they add more nickel to some blocks?
Quote from: Side-Oilers on September 06, 2021, 12:43:20 PM
Royce,
Curious: Why then did they add more nickel to some blocks?y
and if you've ever tried to pick up a true under the counter Chevy bowtie SB race block you'd see the weight and realize that bare unrusted yellowish glow of the metal was due to a very generous dose of nickel. I had one for awhile that came out of a Rondeau complete with Kinsler injection and very trick Bosch injection and ignition. This is the gem I had sitting in the garage. https://www.ultimatecarpage.com/car/7028/Rondeau-M382-Chevrolet.html Car is now running an aluminum block with carb in vintage racing.
Identify Chevy Hi Nickel block https://itstillruns.com/identify-high-nickel-block-chevy-7636437.html
(https://i.imgur.com/An4iq5ll.jpg)
Brett: Thanks for the edumacation on that.
The Ford metallurgist said they never had to add nickel because it is a naturally occurring mineral in iron ore. He said for high performance applications the recipe specified by Ford engineers often required a certain level of chromium be added to the mix to achieve the test results desired. They would add 50 lb bags of chromium to the pour, then test for results until it met the engineering specs.
Nickel is more of a nuisance in iron casting than anything.
The "high nickel" thing is simply a BS story that predates the internet.
Quote from: Side-Oilers on September 06, 2021, 12:43:20 PM
Royce,
Curious: Why then did they add more nickel to some blocks?
I am not going to take sides on this but I know as a fact that the Ford blocks are VERY repairable by welding them with 304 stainless steel rods.
Stainless has a formula for some chromium (little) and nickel (quite a bit).
The welds stick like they were cast with the block and if the crack went through the main bulkheads machines down with a line bore where you can't even see the location of the weld.
So although the argument of nickel is a "junk" factor, it is noticeably more present in the Ford castings rather then the GM's. The difference in hardness is very measurable with the Brinell test.
The GM's when cracked are generally done at that point. The Ford's CAN be kept ticking with not too much difficulty. The question would be rather how far into the water jackets and liner bore the crack goes and if you can get at its entirety?