I would like to change the transmission fluid in the T-10 and the plugs are being difficult to remove. They are a four-sided plug so standard box wrenches and sockets don't fit. It there a special tool for this job? If so, what is it called and any lead to a part number and who makes it would be appreciated. I am thinking a four-sided box wrench or socket that could take some force and not round the fitting would be the ticket. Thanks for any suggestions.
Hi JWH,
If you get desperate, a pipe wrench should do the trick. What is nice about the pipe wrench, oriented such that the harder you pull, the harder the pipe wrench bites on the plug. You might have a new plug ready to reinstall before you remove the old one. I am not aware of a specialty tool to remove the square plug.
Good luck
Cory
Unless it's really corroded, a good sized crescent wrench should do the trick as well.
I've always used the appropriate size open end wrench, or crescent wrench as mentioned.
Make sure to remove the fill plug first. If you remove the drain plug first and then cannot remove the fill plug you are in trouble.
I believe its a 5/8 in size. A quality wrench like Snap-on should get a good grip if the plug isnt rounded off.
Have the car in the air at the moment so took a look....was able to get a 9/16" open end wrench on both plugs, tight fit which is good!
Quote from: s2ms on November 14, 2021, 11:11:05 PM
Have the car in the air at the moment so took a look....was able to get a 9/16" open end wrench on both plugs, tight fit which is good!
Hi JWH,
By all means, if a standard wrench will do the job, do it. I like Dave's suggestion on the fill plug first. But if you round off the corners and the standard wrenches or crescent wrenches aren't working, your last resort can be the pipe wrench. Yes, it sounds a little crude, but it will get a rounded plug off, but you have to use correctly to get the wrench to bite with the pull. If you pull backwards, it won't bite.
Best of luck
Cory
Guys, tool manufacturers make sockets for square-headed applications. Just do a Google or Bing search to find out who make them and where to get one.
Pipe plugs can be difficult to remove if someone has over-tightened them in the past (which appears to be the case). Using a square socket allows one to apply brute force to remove the pipe plug WITHOUT destroying it.
Frank
Quote from: s2ms on November 14, 2021, 10:46:02 PM
I've always used the appropriate size open end wrench, or crescent wrench as mentioned.
Make sure to remove the fill plug first. If you remove the drain plug first and then cannot remove the fill plug you are in trouble.
+1 . . . Make sure you can get the fill plug out!!!
John
Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. Old Guy, the term Pipe Plug is the key to me doing a successful search to find a four-sided tool. I have tried the open end wrenches and also a big Crescent wrench but as Old Guy pointed out, someone REALLY tightened the two plugs. Or over time, they have just become extremely stubborn. Also, the thought about getting the "Fill" plug out before the "Drain" plug is helpful. Now off to do some tool shopping for a "Pipe Plug Wrench."
Jeff
Quote from: JWH on November 15, 2021, 01:51:20 PM
Thanks for all of the replies and suggestions. Old Guy, the term Pipe Plug is the key to me doing a successful search to find a four-sided tool. I have tried the open end wrenches and also a big Crescent wrench but as Old Guy pointed out, someone REALLY tightened the two plugs. Or over time, they have just become extremely stubborn. Also, the thought about getting the "Fill" plug out before the "Drain" plug is helpful. Now off to do some tool shopping for a "Pipe Plug Wrench."
Jeff
Jeff, I also should have mentioned that I would also apply a non-hardening thread sealer (or teflon tape) to the drain plug when you install it. Often times, there is a bit of seepage/leakage from a drain plug which sometimes warrant tightening to seal. Some get carried away as you have witnessed. A pipe plug can be tightened to a point where it will crack/break the case in the process. The sealer should allow a potential leak from occurring WITHOUT the need for excessive tightening. You DON'T want a cracked case!
Frank
I usually look for a 12 pt socket that fits snug. A metric size might fit best. Below is a link to an 8 pt socket (double square) if you are patient enough to wait.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303749199673?hash=item46b8dcf739:g:N-AAAOSw6K1fnykC&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACUPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSzaVbXtmGxqmWnpn8RLN2q8%252B7ibOYMBOeEdTffezfo0017KZebGr5Mxqj4l4wkjR8%252BXpA7m0wvjhHx4revCLad0jovoYWVj%252B23P7XE0nZCbesVsHufzWjpHgzT7kft1JsLhvoCCHOf9XNtIYIbiqv1M34%252F2MJmtCmg1rtO3XIM0xoT5KFkh1whiyoxvpnut%252Bn0HxRc9OPNCPs5pONmUvCkaLzvPFL3LwWkGniLk9asmpLB%252FX6N4EJDDoACF7lxmEg6asKfR53JaFDEFOLcIkUKOFFN0%252Bvx6CT81G9gM9yNiF3%252Fsmm4Ps2nEOB7k1qrSoneIKilmgD8VcgmfVt5qYuJrAdQHXPFHPPzGqnCkKW8n0ITskPM7J5CJaIOKwc2NHPj5hqc2AUCW6N%252FPPqMn9LJHMrF64fZfraLtiJt5dYA5AHd03zf%252Fuv4X9eLUW3B%252BOn40iDSUJEwI4%252BGiSGCmiXALGQiiS6eV5ALjX4PNscY0SVcb5eOyvi%252BFbVS9hfJBEkbkQnbqNyfyAEFHXYhrWB3YqooeSjDKCT3BnnPg5B9XP5PAIRZGksUfBco9S8QmjjjZiQem9QJUnh3S6keTQQfm9nJOZdYZ8FCOikIRPtik%252BZQxDUwKOmq3d4MP2Sg5u%252B4HsrRMq4xYmOwfRc%252FUO21Q%252B2m0tVa5%252Fsgx9G80Hv1bWueK1KgMB%252FNINGZ2q1UYt1DmCRPCHss2ZdXpnFTRoT5QfHdpwGX%252Bb28n%252FAgbWyeI0%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7LS8tKkXw
KR - My open-end metric wrenches are the most snug fitting. I like the idea of an 8 point or 12 point socket as I am just not finding any 4 point wrenches or sockets (yet). I had not thought of that, thanks.
Frank, thanks for the advice on getting the plugs to seal up once the job is finished. The tranny is in a '66 GT350 and so definitely do not want to crack the case.
There are a few, but they don't look all that beefy.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/124964421556?hash=item1d1875bfb4:g:-5QAAOSw9exhcMxf&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACUPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSxXDXcCydCuSj2Tq2S%252F3Gnrtl78Zh7wY%252FO1I%252FMg0IMSLAxD8mTE%252BGasZOyimccBXd1fiJfpDvdGirJkI%252BvWkkDocR1TrK2RW9i10b7mbzoaCP1C%252BwjP5bkzysSojhqplfoRr38v7FVe3d0EbfS7CQVGe7fIaX55HbaIoHyrTVJk36i1ifpk0kaBAHaWuFU0LSLFOvwzsboKX61Xtjqhkhmkvac4zBHWZPZp%252Bd0CMvdoLp9JTlGTN0uZ4xkmXH1ASusqqneYPHA%252FRak8p6SxxsHUffCO%252FtolgwmBZyHlmfHCkT8jgGq%252FYpf7%252FG6XWdV78o1Bn5BZ0yRxmcDoy86STj0bfGUcH4U9xehgJZbASbH9%252FRIqMDJ%252F5tAs1sSN5twZX7BnIQS8Xe7vclsYjsUSOJNe3hZUQSmkfSbfjgUbFlsd7rtlFvkzu4lIQL%252BAjN24FejTwLvCAYVnfQFcjB8nxSYseVx0kSgNPkKODPCF5L4skpSSc9b2eWugxy6qkwRiRkgUmJYu227BlCiZ5muHQOet%252FmsgTSLw%252F8K4dFzHl7CGgHSGARnOEhQ%252FilkQZaIdg37yCRHFpHTDE1ZqIXjbOuOV02gs9ht%252FbarQFgebkrMWit0vySucEtLZ1HQ2zLCcCpxjDJ%252FtGzMTY%252F01sMGEiAaynqs4VmqM5QHvyrxy3WwRk8%252FHI5C%252BLjZWcGt82Km15yF5AXMC8QZYF%252Boq1lZdVu3NNvqTrIG0tVIvBHG4MMers%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6rS8tKkXw
If it were mine I would start off with a penetrant like KROIL- KNOCK ER LOOSE or a host of wonderful penetrants. Sounds like you might be limited in the tool dept. Then I would use a 12 point IMPACT socket with an impact or rattle gun, these sockets are the BLACK case hardened variety they are readily identifiable from the standard chrome sockets. These sockets are very tough and with the rattling of the impact it will remove very stubborn rusty bolts etc. If your still not sure call up a buddy or your favorite shop im sure someone can give you a hand Good Luck!
If you round it off you can more than likely use a socket like the ones that are used for taking off locking lug nuts when you don't have the key.. I have 2 different sets of them and they work very well. The harder you turn them the more they dig in.
THINKWORK Impact Bolt & Nut Remover Set, 13+1 Pieces Bolt Extractor Tool Set, Stripped Lug Nut Remover, Extraction Socket Set for Removing Damaged, Frozen, Rusted, Rounded-Off Bolts, Nuts & Screws https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0869BR8MG/ref=cm_sw_r_awdo_navT_g_55AB5ASSR1FZF9WKTQKE
They sell them at Harbor freight and most automotive parts places.
Roy
I have Montgomery Wards brand 1/2" drive square sockets but Herbrand or Snap On or Craftsman are all good brands too. Here's a Herbrand:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/373772510693?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item570693e5e5:g:DS8AAOSwYuphe3nk&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSafTQYbq3L7RBVAMi0K9cwxzGQXo2JwzsFmiI%252FE0QIrwGLlFf3tFcTm5SLBPu3DTNcg9p4Z9vw6GyHmlz42pg8FVmzyLBU6gmLJcxKixoFGUuoNz%252BPtWWTsMh07ijnFw%252BzIZQnk1pAHFZ2rnpOu4xaQkjomMqLWrnH8R%252FFNL90P%252F7vMwFfeRz8LngC%252Bj4bcWBL7NQDXiqEILp0u%252FF0m5qej5o6tkKUIn2DRo10kJdQMQkSqzD6k4R%252FS0TUiRRnJw8uKkc%252BLTgR5m3p8IV0s2UZKkfiMPjIq9AQFvXzwDQtaOwkSVRpUDOyzLy1i9DQtn9D7JV4eoElE%252B3ys0WiOxCotyiyFcyRzoE5YMMiIBfraz1tHvsJFXB53TutuQ6GV9xFDK8foAggLUnj3rSw1b4TYaKSzsoV3rw%252B%252Ftbnhz2CpONWa6L2cAF52fvHQzEqgclT%252BZh8A6ArV1rhdJsDiDSB8T3Pz%252BjCv0TZLc%252B4llbZUgclOT88m8ZjUdMQ9BTkTTBpYfxFwowC%252FNyazo1leUla20l36SUu9%252B6AV6GvmAAv6i9iH1aQKwH5whWn4%252BKT1OacN8eUdOk%252FaWjwbXF8BfmDZu6l4GQlr9dco%252Br8ZJlsNdrnklRRzaFQUlQwU4kvpsc4zW6Z1y2v4LTp2pzqwUcsGfAHEZqby6eFJnZrVkrMUvDzkO%252B2N7v3TOsClfEgBIIYTpsCI9qypR18RmjCPTGJ2Jl7cfUWPitNibyp2R6u%252F108K7PsQsfQKW1dgxYYQyFXT16o5GMGh%252BfT2EH1riZB%252BNtRLMymZuRYLR0N5L4PQXbhDv%252FmHZL0R%252BNPA%252B%252BDQHUDAT%252Bq%252BtANSIZcbLp9dy6Rw%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMyOrq4aRf (https://www.ebay.com/itm/373772510693?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item570693e5e5:g:DS8AAOSwYuphe3nk&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSafTQYbq3L7RBVAMi0K9cwxzGQXo2JwzsFmiI%252FE0QIrwGLlFf3tFcTm5SLBPu3DTNcg9p4Z9vw6GyHmlz42pg8FVmzyLBU6gmLJcxKixoFGUuoNz%252BPtWWTsMh07ijnFw%252BzIZQnk1pAHFZ2rnpOu4xaQkjomMqLWrnH8R%252FFNL90P%252F7vMwFfeRz8LngC%252Bj4bcWBL7NQDXiqEILp0u%252FF0m5qej5o6tkKUIn2DRo10kJdQMQkSqzD6k4R%252FS0TUiRRnJw8uKkc%252BLTgR5m3p8IV0s2UZKkfiMPjIq9AQFvXzwDQtaOwkSVRpUDOyzLy1i9DQtn9D7JV4eoElE%252B3ys0WiOxCotyiyFcyRzoE5YMMiIBfraz1tHvsJFXB53TutuQ6GV9xFDK8foAggLUnj3rSw1b4TYaKSzsoV3rw%252B%252Ftbnhz2CpONWa6L2cAF52fvHQzEqgclT%252BZh8A6ArV1rhdJsDiDSB8T3Pz%252BjCv0TZLc%252B4llbZUgclOT88m8ZjUdMQ9BTkTTBpYfxFwowC%252FNyazo1leUla20l36SUu9%252B6AV6GvmAAv6i9iH1aQKwH5whWn4%252BKT1OacN8eUdOk%252FaWjwbXF8BfmDZu6l4GQlr9dco%252Br8ZJlsNdrnklRRzaFQUlQwU4kvpsc4zW6Z1y2v4LTp2pzqwUcsGfAHEZqby6eFJnZrVkrMUvDzkO%252B2N7v3TOsClfEgBIIYTpsCI9qypR18RmjCPTGJ2Jl7cfUWPitNibyp2R6u%252F108K7PsQsfQKW1dgxYYQyFXT16o5GMGh%252BfT2EH1riZB%252BNtRLMymZuRYLR0N5L4PQXbhDv%252FmHZL0R%252BNPA%252B%252BDQHUDAT%252Bq%252BtANSIZcbLp9dy6Rw%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMyOrq4aRf)
Yes, I would say an appropriately sized square drive socket would be best, but if one doesn't have one, or finds that the square really isn't of any real known size or made properly square even, then the best tool is a good Crescent Wrench of reasonable size for the job. ;)
The advantage of the Crescent Wrench is that one can adjust the jaws, which are not parallel by design, until tight on the square of the fitting as this increases the area in play and moves some loading inward away from the corners (mounting the wrench for the proper direction of the rotation of course :-\ ) this reducing the likely hood of rounding or fitting breakage. Also realize that many of these plugs are of a casting and of poor material, (after all, it's just a (L.P.) pipe plug ::) ) and therefore may be somewhat sensitive to excessive corner loading and impacts, whether be from a hammer or an impact wrench; and this fact makes the use of a serrated jaws pipe wrench a bad idea; believe me I've followed many a professional (D.A. :o ) plumber who managed to gnaw the square end off a plug, and never get the plug out using a pipe-wrench! :o
After all, they're called a "PIPE WRENCH" for a reason; but then a good 'MONKEY WRENCH' would work well ;) ; of which I have a few just for that reason. 8)
And unlike the last guy, don't tighten the plug as though your life depends on it, as it is only a plug, for a threaded hole, that is tapered in profile which creates an interference swaging fitment, and what is actually acting on this thing that if tighten properly (reasonably) is really trying to displace it; and vibration is going to have very little effect on this plug ("properly" installed), so guess again? Also be aware that the use of thread sealers may, but definitely those with Teflon or the use of Teflon tape requires that one pay attention to the torque being applied as they act as a friction reducing lubricant which may lead to excessive tightening effect, and forget about next time or the next guy removing it, one just might (remember the tapered thread creating a swage ??? ) crack the case casting! :'(
One last thought: If a plug is "really in there", or rusted in place, consider the torque being applied in the effort to remove it, even if one has got a good bite on the fitting; as I said previously, there never was the intention for extreme force to be exerted, and past the reinforced area of boss proper the rest of the side of the casting is somewhat thin, push too hard, and I've seen the casting side break away,..........ops! :o
Scott.
These a tapered pipe plugs. A hammer is your friend use a wrench that fits well and preload it as much as you can then smack the wrench with a 1-2 lb hammer - acts like an impact wrench to loosen it.
You ask 100 guys how to do something and you will get 100 different ways of doing things. One thing for sure is that my tools are my friends, after building repairing things for the last 45 years... a vice grip pliers, crescent wrench, rattle gun, pipe wrench, hammers, you name it that plug wont be staying in there very long! I am getting antsy reading its still in that transmission. :-\
I was able to remove both plugs from the transmission tonight.
The "fill" plug came off using an 8 point socket as suggested and a small breaker bar.
The "drain" plug was a bigger challenge as it had been slightly rounded (picture attached) and so the socket would spin off when applying a good amount of force. I went back to the 15MM open end wrench knowing it would make full contact with the sides of the plug and not just the points like the socket does. I fortunately had a piece of pipe that fit over the open end wrench and that provided enough leverage to spin it loose.
I assume that these types of plugs are available at NAPA but any recommendations on where to pick up a new replacement are welcome.
Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions on how to get the plugs out, I appreciate it.
Jeff
Quote from: JWH on November 16, 2021, 09:39:17 PM
I was able to remove both plugs from the transmission tonight.
The "fill" plug came off using an 8 point socket as suggested and a small breaker bar.
The "drain" plug was a bigger challenge as it had been slightly rounded (picture attached) and so the socket would spin off when applying a good amount of force. I went back to the 15MM open end wrench knowing it would make full contact with the sides of the plug and not just the points like the socket does. I fortunately had a piece of pipe that fit over the open end wrench and that provided enough leverage to spin it loose.
I assume that these types of plugs are available at NAPA but any recommendations on where to pick up a new replacement are welcome.
Thanks again to everyone for the suggestions on how to get the plugs out, I appreciate it.
Jeff
You may want a Napa replacement to use as a place holder until you find a genuine original. I would try some of the Mustang salvage yards ,used parts sellers etc. for a plug as you are more likely to get one like what came out vs. a generic replacement .
Might even try a couple of the big ransmission rebuilders.
Of course always get a couple of pictures first his "prefect" might not be yours :)
From Bob's message, I take it that the plug pictured is the original plug that came on the transmission when new? If so, I will clean up and re-use and look for a nicer original down the road. I assumed this had been changed out at some point.
Another question is the "fill" plug has a splotch of orange paint on it, like someone took a big brush and painted the plug and slopped some onto the transmission also. Would this have been factory? Just curious and enjoy learning this stuff.