Just wondering about the screws, and metal standoffs used to mount the tach in a '66 Hertz. I installed a new dash pad back in the mid 70's, and do not remember any of the tubular spacers going thru the pad under the tach. The tach had pulled way down into the old dash pad, so don't think it had the spacers. I would really appreciate pics of the screws, and spacers. I'm going to install my tach tomorrow. I just got it back from being restored by Phil. Thanks in advance. Ron
As posted on the old lost forum
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/9/6-230118193936.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/9/6-230118193557.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/9/6-230118193217.jpeg)
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/5/6-110616221818.jpeg)
Have many more - just was was handy and already up loaded
Hope this helps
Thanks Jeff, That shows me what the screw heads look like, and how the spacers are almost as thick as the dash pad. I'll have to find some spacers at the hardware store, or fabricate some out of copper tubing. Ron
Does anyone have the dimensions of the spacers? I believe they were available on the site before the crash. Thanks.
I took a screen shot from Forum 1 (original thread reply from October 14,2014 by 6S2020) and the screw info. and dimensions are as follows:
Screws are phillips pan heads 1 5/16" long.
Spacers are 11/16" long, 1/2" diameter (OD) w/1/16" wall.
Jim Cowles sometimes has the spacers for sale. He should have the dimensions.
Steve
I think I remember reading a post on that old thread not all of the cars had the spacers. Maybe I am thinking of something else.
Greek
I replaced the dash pad in the mid 70's, and do not think 550 came with spacers under the tach. I say that due to the tach base being pulled way down into the dash pad. Ron
These were the original screws on 6S1757 when I bought it in 1987. Although they are not what is typically found I have seen them on several other (mainly later) cars so not sure where they fit in, if at all. The OE tach was replaced in 1967 so maybe that has something to do with although I can't see why whoever replaced it wouldn't reuse the OE screws.
Dave
(http://wasaac.org/temp/tach01b.jpg)
Dave - Just sharing and not meaning to be argumentative in any way. I've never seen that style of trim screens on a regular 66 original cars early or later
Often we don't understand why others or prior owners did things and if we shared all of those sorts of findings the thread would be mighty long. :) Suggest that if you feel that they are original to start collecting others that are identical from the same period of construction at Shelby and only from cars that have not been restored to start with.
Closest I have close to 6S1757 is pictures of the 6S1732 that Brant did that also had the pan heads
Wonder if the new tach kit came included mounting screws that that might explain it. Just thinking out loud
Here is another example from a pretty late example - 6S226x
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/10/6-140518164718.jpeg)
1122 came with panhead screws and no spacers. feb 66 car. phred
1431 came with the kind of screws in the last picture, just look like a black pan head screw, had two cheap plastic tubes for spacers. Thye were black and looked like somebody took a couple of cheap Bic pens and cut them up for the spacers
Quote from: papa scoops on May 14, 2018, 04:58:38 PM
1122 came with panhead screws and no spacers. feb 66 car. phred
1134 has panhead screws and no spacers. It is also a Feb 66 car.
Greek
Quote from: Steve McDonald Formally known as Mcdonas on May 14, 2018, 05:40:10 PM
1431 came with the kind of screws in the last picture, just look like a black pan head screw, had two cheap plastic tubes for spacers. Thye were black and looked like somebody took a couple of cheap Bic pens and cut them up for the spacers
Yep part of the problem is all the possible owner fixes, changes and so on after 50 years of use and ownership brings with it. Our car was only driven for about 7-9 years and I've always have to be careful and not take everything immediately at face value though it is tempting to do.
Got to be cautious and evaluate everything I find or see.
Quote from: J_Speegle on May 14, 2018, 04:48:01 PM
Dave - Just sharing and not meaning to be argumentative in any way. I've never seen that style of trim screens on a regular 66 original cars early or later
Often we don't understand why others or prior owners did things and if we shared all of those sorts of findings the thread would be mighty long. :) Suggest that if you feel that they are original to start collecting others that are identical from the same period of construction at Shelby and only from cars that have not been restored to start with.
Closest I have close to 6S1757 is pictures of the 6S1732 that Brant did that also had the pan heads
Wonder if the new tach kit came included mounting screws that that might explain it. Just thinking out loud
Jeff,
No worries, that's why I threw it out there. Just wondering if that style screw may have been OE and seen on other cars. I have seen it on only 2-3 other cars including this photo of 6S2086, not sure where I got that but probably when it was making the rounds on ebay and auctions. I'll look through my photos to see if there are any more examples.
Thanks,
Dave
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/236-140518213518.jpeg)
Jeff, pm sent.
Here's the info from the previous SAAC forum which I have saved in a Word doc:
There are 2 spacers and they act as a crush tube between the tach mount bracket and the metal dash board. The screws go through them. You have to drill or wad punch two 1/2" holes in the dash pad and one for the wiring.
Just pulled original tach (4/2/66) and dash pad off 6S2020.
Screws are Phillips pan heads 1-5/16" long.
Spacers are 11/16" L, 1/2" OD, 1/16" wall
Wire cover: It is typically a rubber sheath not heat shrink. Heat shrink is too thin a wall. You can take a larger size of heat shrink and shrink it down to a comparable diameter size that has a closer to correct wall thickness but it is hard to do it without the heat shrink having wrinkles in it which will not look correct. The sheath slides over the wires. It is not tight like heat shrink would do.
Remove Tach: take the nut off the back of the bracket holding the tach to it, (so you have access to the two screws holding the bracket to the dash) pull the two screws out, pull the instrument cluster out (mark all the wires) (disconnect the speedo cable) wd40 the three tach wire connections, this is to hopefully unplug them without breaking them. pull wires thru dash hole. reverse when tach is fixed.
https://imgur.com/a/S9vyrz7
So, did the guys at Shelby take the dash pad off to drill all the holes or did they do it some other way?
Quote from: hertz350 on January 19, 2022, 05:29:57 PM
So, did the guys at Shelby take the dash pad off to drill all the holes or did they do it some other way?
And I've wondered if they had to remove the windshield to drill the holes in the dash?!
Quote from: JWH on January 19, 2022, 06:47:28 PM
Quote from: hertz350 on January 19, 2022, 05:29:57 PM
So, did the guys at Shelby take the dash pad off to drill all the holes or did they do it some other way?
And I've wondered if they had to remove the windshield to drill the holes in the dash?!
Angle drills work great in tight quarters . Angle drill with small head used for the quarter window rivet holes.
Mustang Parts and Restoration has the spacers. Brandt at Virginia Classic Mustangs has the screws.
With the speaker grill out you can fashion a pick tool with a 90 degree bent tip and go thru the original factory screw holes and pimple the fresh dash pad. Yes lots of anxiety marking my Ford nos dash pad replacement. Beware, the CS tach assy sits very close to the windshield. Radio out is a plus too, allowing space to eyeball the underdash. Then oversize the holes in the pad for the pedestal spacers and a hole for the tach loom.
My original plan was to screw a pair of long screws into the original metal dash holes and cut off the heads Those screws were to pimple the dash pad. Won't work. Dash pad will not position using that plan.
Ray
Also my glass was out of the car when I fit the tach bracket. After the glass was set, I final installed the tach to bracket. I strongely suggest spacers. This allows the tach to snug down thus eliminating quivering of a tach that is not seated well.
Ray