My car currently has an early flat Shelby taillight panel which attaches to the rear Ford taillight panel with 4 washers/nuts. I believe it's well known that these are prone to leak. It's probably known that the fiberglass warps and pulls away from the metal surface, too.
Typical early panel already starting to pull away:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/878/41452800915_bf1a710d14.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/26a3rw4)
When I pulled off the fiberglass panel a number of years ago I found a rather haphazard application of goop in an attempt to seal and stop the warpage.
How are you guys having these re-installed? I've sourced another panel and I'd use panel adhesive along the top edge, but then the panel would never come off if need be. Tips?
For extra credit, I never knew that these early panels required a specific end cap. I have a few spares and it turns out most of them are squared off (in the interior "L") for the later panels.
Quote from: Bossbill on May 25, 2018, 09:44:51 PM
My car currently has an early flat Shelby taillight panel which attaches to the rear Ford taillight panel with 4 washers/nuts. I believe it's well known that these are prone to leak. It's probably known that the fiberglass warps and pulls away from the metal surface, too.
Typical early panel already starting to pull away:
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/878/41452800915_bf1a710d14.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/26a3rw4)
When I pulled off the fiberglass panel a number of years ago I found a rather haphazard application of goop in an attempt to seal and stop the warpage.
How are you guys having these re-installed? I've sourced another panel and I'd use panel adhesive along the top edge, but then the panel would never come off if need be. Tips?
For extra credit, I never knew that these early panels required a specific end cap. I have a few spares and it turns out most of them are squared off (in the interior "L") for the later panels.
Yes, the early style drooped which is why it evolved into the later style which had a lip to hold it in place. Dark gray strip caulk is the preferred product to use given that it was used by the factory in other places on the early tail panel. Unfortunately the strip caulk will not help in holding up the lip of the flat panel.
If you're having the car judged I think the originals used the strip caulk (a lot of it) all around the full perimeter of the panel. Also every gap and opening!
If you're trying to keep the fumes and water out then, some have used a variety of things including expanding foam on the larger gaps. But I've heard of guys going overboard with that stuff I guess it REALLY expands and you need to watch/work with it until it stops expanding.
Smaller gaps, around the tail light lenses and aluminum frames can be filled with CRYSTAL CLEAR silicone (the clear stuff is not really clear).
Goes a long way to sealing out the exhaust fumes!
Yes, it will be judged JD.
I've been in these cars before when they were trying to asphyxiate us.
I have enough strip caulk and may just have to live with the imperfect fit.
Thanks guys.
The fumes: the four mounting cresents that have the studs in them do not fit well along the top or bottom. Make sure the strip caulk gets there, and around the studs, or this is the place where a small shot of foam does the trick.
I ended up sealing the entire panel and tail light area with a big gasket cut out of a truck inner tube.
Holes cut out for tail lights and held in the center by the lenses and gas cap. Top is held to body with double sided tape and the rest just by the tail panel and studs. ZERO fumes.
Kurt.
Quote from: 67350#1242 on May 26, 2018, 11:34:43 AM
I ended up sealing the entire panel and tail light area with a big gasket cut out of a truck inner tube.
Holes cut out for tail lights and held in the center by the lenses and gas cap. Top is held to body with double sided tape and the rest just by the tail panel and studs. ZERO fumes.
Kurt.
Sounds like some good alternatives to me .