Completed the rebuild on the p/s pump, sleeve, and heater core, and radiator, but no motivation to get back in the garage for engine/trans install.
Too darn hot and humid!
Ron
congrat's on more done!
(if it matters to you the tag on the back of the power steering pump was typically painted with the pump the nut too - same color not raw metal finish, raw/unpainted pump housing behind the tag, there was cover on the threads similar to what you have on the return nipple to keep the threads free of paint. The dipstick tube was painted all the way to the top on the Teal - Ford/Thompson pumps that is what the "F" stand for on the second line of the tag - if you didn't already know)
I need all the help I can get. Thanks JD.
Do you happen to know if this is 67 May date radiator? I believe the E is May?
Ron
Yes, I believe "E" = May. I'll let some one more versed on Big Block radiators chime in though.
I do remember that the big block radiators have a horizontal rod mid-way across on both the front and the back of the radiator. The small blocks have one but only on the back/engine side.
I bet this car would be horrible without power steering! I could be wrong though
Quote from: JD on August 13, 2018, 09:41:44 PM
Yes, I believe "E" = May. I'll let some one more versed on Big Block radiators chime in though.
I do remember that the big block radiators have a horizontal rod mid-way across on both the front and the back of the radiator. The small blocks have one but only on the back/engine side.
JD is correct however the date code is not the problem . The engineering number on the side strap indicates a Modine radiator for a Dearborn or Metuchen car .The SJ built 67 Shelby would have the engineering number stamped on a metal tag soldered to the top of the driver side strap.
Bob
Are these the metal tags you are talking about?
Ron
That last picture in the first post reminds me of the old saying that Mustangs start on the assembly line as a heater core and eventually have a car built around them. ;D
Get that heater control box in before you do the rest of the drivetrain or your knuckles will hate you!
Quote from: rbarkley on August 13, 2018, 10:38:55 PM
Bob
Are these the metal tags you are talking about?
Ron
Yep.
Heater Control Box is in!
Trying to narrow down what else needs to be done before dropping in the engine and trans.
What do I do with the transmission lines? I guess they go in after the engine/trans are installed?
Quote from: rbarkley on August 14, 2018, 10:20:14 PM
Heater Control Box is in!
Trying to narrow down what else needs to be done before dropping in the engine and trans.
What do I do with the transmission lines? I guess they go in after the engine/trans are installed?
For one thing given that you are trying to do everything else assemblyline original you want to apply the sound deadener/sealant to all of the things that come through the firewall with the engine out. That is how it was done at the factory. This is NOT something you want to try and do when the engine is in. It can be done with engine in but mediocre results can be expected.
FYI the master cylinder and cap were painted on the booster black as a unit. the cap sticker was added after painting. This might be easier done before engine goes in.
Remind be when this car was built at Ford and the Shelby vin. It seems too late for white stripe heater hose.
Quote from: rbarkley on August 14, 2018, 10:20:14 PM
Heater Control Box is in!
Trying to narrow down what else needs to be done before dropping in the engine and trans.
What do I do with the transmission lines? I guess they go in after the engine/trans are installed?
Oil pressure line needs to go through one more black wiring loop towards the firewall then it goes UNDER the master before coming up and attaching with a zip tie at the engine gauge feed harness wiring as it comes out of the firewall.
Quote from: rbarkley on August 14, 2018, 10:20:14 PM
Heater Control Box is in!
Trying to narrow down what else needs to be done before dropping in the engine and trans.
What do I do with the transmission lines? I guess they go in after the engine/trans are installed?
Auto transmission mount should be bare steel looking and not black.
Great info Bob. Thank you. I have some work to do!
Scheduled Date 1/12/1967
#861 was assembled on 1/25/1967 at the San Jose facility (Actual date)
turned into a Shelby 3/15/1967
Shipped to Wilmington Ford (Wilmington, MA.) 3/27/1967
Quote from: rbarkley on August 14, 2018, 10:20:14 PM
Heater Control Box is in!
Trying to narrow down what else needs to be done before dropping in the engine and trans.
What do I do with the transmission lines? I guess they go in after the engine/trans are installed?
WAIT I'm not done yet ;D - E brake bracket at firewall should be bare metal looking and not black. Top of steering box is blacked out with brush. That was done with engine in car but easier to do now . Leave some brush strokes. I would consider adding the washers to the upper shock mounts so that they look like what was engineered to be installed on a Shelby.
Quote from: rbarkley on August 14, 2018, 10:40:57 PM
Great info Bob. Thank you. I have some work to do!
Scheduled Date 1/12/1967
#861 was assembled on 1/25/1967 at the San Jose facility (Actual date)
turned into a Shelby 3/15/1967
Shipped to Wilmington Ford (Wilmington, MA.) 3/27/1967
It should have the red hoses not white. The transition was very early in production . 0001 original hoses were one white and one red for example . Ford was transitioning early in production. Easier now then later. Think of all of the questions you will not have to answer when others see something out of place given all of the other correct details. ;)
Quote from: Bob Gaines on August 14, 2018, 10:28:59 PM
For one thing given that you are trying to do everything else assemblyline original you want to apply the sound deadener/sealant to all of the things that come through the firewall with the engine out. ............................
That includes (well that was the plan) all the attaching items/points also. Can provide plenty of examples/pictures 8) This DOES NOT include the ground wire you have attached to the firewall currently. It was attached to the engine when it was installed so it wasn't there when the sealant was applied
Also replace that drivers side rear hood bumper ;)
If you choose you can return the original machined surfaces to all the original locations on your third member pinion retainer.
Even though your using an aftermarket rear brake lines (likely fronts also) you should remove the aftermarket ink markings applied to the hoses since those will pull the eye and call people to notice that they have been changed
Might also want to pull the back lower seat cushion if its already in place. Remove the muffler mounts that go through the floor and clean them off and refinish them. The fact that they were left in place when the undercarriage was painted means that the visible studs and the end of studs will still show the red oxide color once all of the exhaust is installed :(
Hope this helps
I'm at about the same point on my car and have a few questions. How does one go about changing white stripe hoses to red. Any suggestions as to techniques, materials, etc? Steering box top blackout sheen flat, matte, satin, semi?? Firewall sealant brand. What's the preferred rattle can brand? I'm guessing one that dries black not brownish, and has the best build properties. Any help much appreciated. Brian
Quote from: houlis on August 15, 2018, 04:15:04 PM
I'm at about the same point on my car and have a few questions. How does one go about changing white stripe hoses to red. Any suggestions as to techniques, materials, etc? Steering box top blackout sheen flat, matte, satin, semi?? Firewall sealant brand. What's the preferred rattle can brand? I'm guessing one that dries black not brownish, and has the best build properties. Any help much appreciated. Brian
Easiest way to change color of the heater hose is to change out the hose with some solid red ones just like when you installed the white ones. I have known some to re paint the hoses . The original product is a type of ink. Steering box black out was done with a product very similar to driveway seal coat IMO, however most just use a semi gloss black paint with a 1inch brush. There is no preferred rattle can brand sound deadener for the firewall in my book. You have to go to a professional line products for the best look. Others may think differently.
Interesting. I got my hoses from Marti and didn't see any red striped ones for 67. Marti and WCCC have them for late 68, after 2/1/68. More San Jose madness?? Brian
Quote from: houlis on August 15, 2018, 09:11:33 PM
Interesting. I got my hoses from Marti and didn't see any red striped ones for 67. Marti and WCCC have them for late 68, after 2/1/68. More San Jose madness?? Brian
Seems at times they are out of stock on one or more of the three colors used over the '67 run.
As Bob stated Red was the most used, white was very early. There were some yellow mixed in over the year but not many. (Would only use yellow if you can be certain the car has the originals)
Have painted the stripe - '67's has solid stripe not the version with wording interspaced - made a jig to hold the hose (still have it) and taped off beside the existing stripe use red silk screen ink and dabbed it on over the existing with a paper towel. Killed me to do it as the hose were NOS, car was in Division 1.
The originals were painted as they came off/out of the extrusion die - ink dripping onto a roller wheel rather fast process not perfect solid line, some modeling.
Would a 12/07/1966 San Jose production use White hose on the heater hose's ? Thank You
Nov '66 SJ build. They were white and they are white now.
Quote from: motorhead428 on August 16, 2018, 06:09:11 PM
Would a 12/07/1966 San Jose production use White hose on the heater hose's ? Thank You
By that date red would be the safe bet IMO.
Bob, what is the break date for white stripped. Mixture of red/white for late 1966?
-Keith
Quote from: 1967 eight barrel on August 17, 2018, 12:37:43 AM
Bob, what is the break date for white stripped. Mixture of red/white for late 1966?
-Keith
It was transitioning from the beginning of 67 production some of the earliest 67 GT350 cars had a red and a white hose so clearly the white was being used up and on it's way out. No clear date but a Nov 66 car would be one of the last to have white IMO.
Champion Mustang has these listed for 68-69 red stripe heater hose.
Would they be correct for the 67 application?
Ron
Quote from: rbarkley on August 17, 2018, 09:25:09 PM
Champion Mustang has these listed for 68-69 red stripe heater hose.
Would they be correct for the 67 application?
Ron
If they are solid red stripe like in the picture then yes. 68-69 red hoses do not have the solid red stripe but a red stripe that is interrupted with a date code .
Quote from: rbarkley on August 17, 2018, 09:25:09 PM
Champion Mustang has these listed for 68-69 red stripe heater hose.
Would they be correct for the 67 application?
Ron
http://www.championmustang.com/6869-mustang-heater-hose-w-red-stripe-p-6532.html
Quote from: 2112 on August 17, 2018, 09:48:10 PM
Quote from: rbarkley on August 17, 2018, 09:25:09 PM
Champion Mustang has these listed for 68-69 red stripe heater hose.
Would they be correct for the 67 application?
Ron
http://www.championmustang.com/6869-mustang-heater-hose-w-red-stripe-p-6532.html
Like I said 68-69 red hoses do not have the solid red stripe but a red stripe that is interrupted with a date code . They have the wrong picture with the description or they don't know the difference. You will be fine if they send you what is in the picture but don't be surprised if they come the 68/69 way which is not a solid stripe. I would verify with the seller to eliminate wasted time.
I took a stab at repainting my 67 heater hose stripes this weekend. Opinions on the results are welcome.
1. Materials - heater hoses ( I'm using the white striped ones I got from Marti). 6' length of 1/2" diameter wooden dowel, Lowes, HD. Wide tip paint stick, marker, pen thingy. Michaels craft store. Blue tape, the kind with the extra good edge sealing. Picture shows yellow tape being used but it bled under quite a bit so I re-did it with the blue.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/239-200818132400.jpeg)
2. Wipe hoses clean and let dry. I used a wax and grease remover. Insert dowel through hose and secure dowel so it doesn't roll around. I used c-clamps and scraps of wood to hold it down to the table.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/239-200818132442.jpeg)
3 Mask off to appropriate width. I used the white stripes as a guide. Measured when done and came out to 1/4" wide. Use the good blue tape. I when over the edges with the smooth side of a socket to get a good seal.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/239-200818132552.jpeg)
4. Follow directions on paint stick to get paint flowing. Wipe paint stick along masked off area of hose. Not too fast, not too slow, you'll see how the paint is laying down as you go. 2 passes may be necessary to cover the width because the tip is flat and the hose is curved.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/239-200818132638.jpeg)
5. Once you have it covered peel off the tape. Maybe you can wait until it dries but I took it off as soon as I finished with the paint stick.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/239-200818132823.jpeg)
6. The finished product.
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/239-200818132746.jpeg)
(http://www.saacforum.com/gallery/239-200818132317.jpeg)
Opinions welcome. I'm sure with more experimentation the process could be refined. One thing I thought of was to, before releasing paint from the marker, take a round file or x-acto knife or something to re-shape the tip to conform better to the curve of the hose. I gave it a real quick try after I started the paint pen, now I have red files. Hope this helps others who need red 67 hoses. Brian
Looks pretty darn good to me. +1 on removing the tape as soon as you strip it. That allows the edges to lay down better. some time you get jagged edges otherwise.
Wow! That looks great Brian. I am going to do the same.
I like the dowel idea to keep the surface straight.
Ron
Just dug my heater box out from storage. Off car #185 completed at San Jose on 12/01/66 and has 1 white and 1 yellow hose still attached. I will try to post a couple of pictures. Just to help with the time line.
Quote from: motorhead428 on May 01, 2020, 09:11:33 PM
Just dug my heater box out from storage. Off car #185 completed at San Jose on 12/01/66 and has 1 white and 1 yellow hose still attached. I will try to post a couple of pictures. Just to help with the time line.
That is more a random thing IMHO. Probably the end of a spool. Typically you see both the same color. Both white was typically seen in early production then both red and last yellow . Yellow was the least used it seemed from surviving examples. The original hoses on 0001 for example had one white and one red originally. If one chooses to copy the mismatch i would suggest to have a picture copy of the original to explain the out of the ordinary occurrence to skeptics. I would NOT copy the mismatch unless it came from your specific car.