What finish should the screws holding the gauge pod together have?
4 screws on the gauge housing
2 screws on the cover plate for gauge body.
Just trying to get my details right.
Thanks
Brent A
Quote from: alexgt350h on August 28, 2018, 04:26:38 PM
What finish should the screws holding the gauge pod together have?
4 screws on the gauge housing
2 screws on the cover plate for gauge body.
Just trying to get my details right.
Thanks
Brent A
Typically black oxide.
Thanks
While we're on the subject of gauge pod hardware, what are the correct screws to use? Head type, length, thread. The ones that hold the sheetmetal plate on, and the ones that hold the gauges pods together. Missing my sheetmetal plate screws and pretty sure I've got the wrong ones on the pods.Any pics appreciated. Thanks.
Brian
Quote from: bhoulis on August 31, 2018, 12:11:53 AM
While we're on the subject of gauge pod hardware, what are the correct screws to use? Head type, length, thread. The ones that hold the sheetmetal plate on, and the ones that hold the gauges pods together. Missing my sheetmetal plate screws and pretty sure I've got the wrong ones on the pods.Any pics appreciated. Thanks.
Brian
Slotted and counter sunk besides the black oxide finish.
Brian, I looked for these for years until I found some at Elliot's Hardware but they only had them in aluminum.
Anybody have a source for correct screws, I am interested as well.
Texas Swede
Was hoping someone could provide the thread size and length. Easier to search the web if I have those specs. Also, any specs on the 2 front plate screws?
Brian
just an FYI, early cars didn't have the screw(s) in the front filler plate between the gauges...not all cars had them.
I just returned from a local Fastenal store, but didn't write down the length and thread sizes.
I'll go back Tuesday and get that info if you want.
I have 3 of the four original pod mount screws, so these should be correct length and all.
Counter sunk, slotted, but a strange thread.
Brent A
Quote from: JD on August 31, 2018, 11:56:09 PM
just an FYI, early cars didn't have the screw(s) in the front filler plate between the gauges...not all cars had them.
To add, if the plate has not been changed and it has holes in the front plate it needs screws. If not then of course no screws.
Measured the screws used in the under dash gauge assembly on #1352
4 ea. "Plastite Screw" , #4 x 1/4", slotted , countersunk, oval head, black oxide finish.
These hold the instruments in the two pod housings.
Note: Plastite screws are used with plastic, aluminum, and pot metal applications.
2 ea. #6 x 3/8" , slotted, pan head. Black oxide finish.
These hold the filler plate to the main housing.
Your car may be different, but this is what I found, and works in my car.
Thanks
Brent A
Okay, I will accept the norm, but I've bigger to fish to fry. Lots of assembly and major things to do before screw sourcing is a priority. Still believe fit, form and function are being served and appearance of conforming type of screws with rest of interior is better. Owner's decision till later. 'Good talk' as they say.
PL
Quote from: alexgt350h on September 05, 2018, 11:58:40 AM
Measured the screws used in the under dash gauge assembly on #1352
4 ea. "Plastite Screw" , #4 x 1/4", slotted , countersunk, oval head, black oxide finish.
These hold the instruments in the two pod housings.
Note: Plastite screws are used with plastic, aluminum, and pot metal applications.
2 ea. #6 x 3/8" , slotted, pan head. Black oxide finish.
These hold the filler plate to the main housing.
Your car may be different, but this is what I found, and works in my car.
Thanks
Brent A
I measured the filler plate screws on mine and it's a 6-32 x 1/4 oval head slot. These are generically known in the industry as wall plate screws. However, wall plate screws have a head diameter of .279 whereas mine are .215. And really hard to find in that head diameter.
Can I get a verification on the head diameter, please?
Additionally, the screws that hold the under dash plate to the main body are 10-24 x 3/8 pan head slot in a zinc finish. Mine look too hardware to be correct...