Has anyone attempted to rebuild their control valve if so how difficult? Any special tools needed? Or should I send it to someone?
Quote from: tonys_shelby on November 05, 2018, 04:29:08 PM
Has anyone attempted to rebuild their control valve if so how difficult? Any special tools needed? Or should I send it to someone?
Rodes restoration has done some for me.
Check out the Ford shop manual. Pay close attention to the manual and you should be fine. Depends on your mechanical experience and tools available.
Thanks, I've rebuilt all the other parts ( pump, Ram ) and normally do everything else my self like engine, trans, etc but never tackled the control valve. I will still check out Rodes, was hoping to get a email and web site for him but nothing. I guess i have to go old school and pick up the phone. :P
Rebuilt my control valve a few years ago and thought it was fairly easy.
It's not too bad. There's a great video online that takes you step by step (just ignore the French accent ;D):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIIour-n5o0
Good luck!
awesome thanks for everyone's input. I'm going for it!
If you have rebuilt the pump and the ram, you certainly have the skills and ability to rebuild the control valve. Have you removed the valve from the linkage yet? There is a roll pin inserted into the linkage that keeps the valve from spinning that must be removed. Be careful and gentle removing the brass liner inside, it is easy to booger that up. Note that when you torque the nut on the end of the control valve, you torque in INCH/pounds, not foot/pounds. Finally, make sure you have the two short hoses connected to the correct ports on the valve or the steering wheel will literally kick like a mule when you start the car.
Jeff
Awesome, thanks Jeff
I do have one question that maybe Jeff you can answer, in removing the tube seats can you get to the rear of them to punch them out or do you need to get to them from the front side and try to pick them out or even use like an easy out to remove them?
I have never had to replace these so I can't help. Hopefully someone else can chime in with the best way to remove??
Quote from: JWH on November 06, 2018, 05:14:08 PM
I have never had to replace these so I can't help. Hopefully someone else can chime in with the best way to remove??
I can't help with removal details however unless there was a issue with it leaking in that area they don't typically need to be changed as the other internal parts do that wear. I have never had to have them changed ether.
StangersSite has a lot of info and tutorials about power steering system, a good read about what to look for when rebuilding: Search through the site.
http://www.stangerssite.com/CVparts.html
http://www.stangerssite.com/CanIControlValve.html
Thanks for the stanger site, the kit they have is better then any one else and cheaper also. I emailed them about removing the tube seats. I want to replace them because every power steering control valve leaks at those darn hose locations and don't want any leaks if I can help it.
With brake master cylinder tube seats, they are removed by running in a self tapping screw into the seat hole and pulling them out. The screws are even included in many rebuild kits. I suspect the same method would work well with the control valve.
Installing a new seat probably best done using the actual hose or hard line where the flare contacts the tube seat rather than trying to press in with some sort of flat tool that may flatten or distort the sealing surface.
those are great ideas that I hadn't thought of and I bet will work perfectly. Thanks
If you haven't removed the valve yet I would recommend using this or similar tool to pull the ball stud from the pitman arm - also works great on tie rods and ball joints with no damage. GearWrench 3916D: This is a great tool! Kurt.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GearWrench-3916D-Universal-Ball-Joint-Separator/302947211526?epid=1540027134&hash=item46890f9906:g:~vIAAOSwJTNb4MzQ:rk:1:pf:0