Please share your thoughts on this. I'm been looking at pictures of 67's online and noticed that the color of stain seen on their wooden steering wheels seem to vary greatly. Back when they were first new, were they a lighter or a darker wood stain? What is considered more correct? I know when I restored my last steering wheel, I preferred a darker stain, but I never gave much thought as to what was more correct. What do you prefer?
There really is no correct. They varied in different shades. Had my car since '82
and it looked to be original and is a blond color.
Max
Mine is yellowish.
I have seen some more reddish in hue. I love those myself.
Probably never came that way, but what the heck, I am Mr. Day 2 anyway 8)
Remember/consider that the internet is the worst place to compare colors, finishes, tints and tones since it all depends on the cameras settings, the lighting & back ground (digital cameras adjusting) when the picture was taken, resolution, your monitor settings and so on. I have plenty of pictures of items where I took multiple pictures at the same setting and within a minute of one another that appear to be completely different cars, parts or finishes.
Just something to think about
Quote from: BGlover67 on February 08, 2018, 01:29:39 PM
Please share your thoughts on this. I'm been looking at pictures of 67's online and noticed that the color of stain seen on their wooden steering wheels seem to vary greatly. Back when they were first new, were they a lighter or a darker wood stain? What is considered more correct? I know when I restored my last steering wheel, I preferred a darker stain, but I never gave much thought as to what was more correct. What do you prefer?
My thoughts are that they varied. Over the years I have seen various shades that were unrestored . Using natural wood is the main reason for a variable shade finish IMO. The human factor which does the finishing is another.
The things that vary the color are 1) the original color of the wood itself 2) the way the stain (if any) was applied 3) the kind of finish put over the wood.
A mineral based clear coat will have a yellowish tint to it. A latex clear coat will be much clearer, i.e., water clear.
The exposure to sunlight is going to effect the tone of the color. A Texas, Arizona car is going to have a sun bleached color or put another way, color depleted.
It is a little like the color of the casting of a refinished intake manifold, you can only get it to ABOUT what everyone EXPECTS it to look like.
There is just no kind of a guide on a consideration like this.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 08, 2018, 08:04:52 PM
Quote from: BGlover67 on February 08, 2018, 01:29:39 PM
Please share your thoughts on this. I'm been looking at pictures of 67's online and noticed that the color of stain seen on their wooden steering wheels seem to vary greatly. Back when they were first new, were they a lighter or a darker wood stain? What is considered more correct? I know when I restored my last steering wheel, I preferred a darker stain, but I never gave much thought as to what was more correct. What do you prefer?
My thoughts are that they varied. Over the years I have seen various shades that were unrestored . Using natural wood is the main reason for a variable shade finish IMO. The human factor which does the finishing is another.
I thought I would clarify that I think that the wheels had varying shades of wood (not all the same shade ) when new based on observations over many decades.
My wood wheel when I bought the car was more orangish...When I refinished it with clear gun stock oil it came out more blonde..Someone commented that the wood will bleach out with sun exposure...That is not necessarily true...depending on the finish they may actually get darker with UV exposure..As an example I ride balsa wood skinned surfboards with an epoxy finish...They get a ton of sun exposure obviously...One which I have barely ridden is very blonde..The other one which I have ridden for six years is a rich honey color..Same age only difference is sun exposure...Again depends on the finish as I suspect that it is actually the finish not the wood that changes color...Regardless the 67 wheel is beautiful however you finish it as long as it's not so dark you can't see the grain...mio due euro...Trent
^^^^ I agree with 557.
My experience is wood (furniture, flooring, wood trim etc) darkens with light exposure.
Quote from: 2112 on February 08, 2018, 10:31:42 PM
^^^^ I agree with 557.
My experience is wood (furniture, flooring, wood trim etc) darkens with light exposure.
It depends on the spicies. Pine is a good example. It is very light when milled and darkens to an orangy/red color. Maple basically stays the same. Oak can darken or lighten.
I don't know what is used for this wheel. It is probably European sourced. It isn't American walnut or maple.
The era in which the wheel was made puts the clear coat into the varnish class. It's not a urethane or a laquer.
Probably the best representation of the original is in the 67 aftermarket poster.
This is a picture of my Pantera's dash and console that I built for it. It is red oak with water based clear coat over it. It has not changed color since I built it.
Again. It's the species of wood and the base system used on the clearcoat.
I can't identify the wood used in the original wheel. It may be a variety of mahogany of which there are at least dozens of kinds depending on the location.
Mahogany is a tropical wood that would have a very wide grain pattern IF any at all. The way they layed out the wood, they wanted to minimize the grain pattern so it's difficult to read.
My steering wheel is 51 years old and in need of a refurbish so I took a close look see and noticed the wood within the cracks is much lighter than the outside color. So now the question remains who does the best 67 steering wheel redo's?
Quote from: 427heaven on February 09, 2018, 10:35:47 AM
My steering wheel is 51 years old and in need of a refurbish so I took a close look see and noticed the wood within the cracks is much lighter than the outside color. So now the question remains who does the best 67 steering wheel redo's?
Great question. There is a gentleman (whose name I'll withhold publicly) that has done a ton of steering wheels for people on the old forum. However, my experience with him was not so great. Not only did it take WAY longer than he quoted, but it was WAY more expensive...AND it came back with flaws. Not happy at all.
PM me, if you want the person's name.
Anyone who wants to restore these things, if that is possible, is just opening themselves up to criticism.
They are all spit somewhere, you can't fill that, they used a gloss varnish which is very difficult to get, ridiculously difficult to reapply without getting some kind of dust specs, fish eyes in it and the owner expects to get back a new wheel.
By comparison, people are criticizing the finish on the new reproduction wheels as not authentic?
"Fools rush in where Angels fear to tread".
Get paid in advance and prepare to get flamed. Not me brother. Best of luck in your endeavor.
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 09, 2018, 01:10:18 PM
Anyone who wants to restore these things, if that is possible, is just opening themselves up to criticism.
They are all spit somewhere, you can't fill that, they used a gloss varnish which is very difficult to get, ridiculously difficult to reapply without getting some kind of dust specs, fish eyes in it and the owner expects to get back a new wheel.
By comparison, people are criticizing the finish on the new reproduction wheels as not authentic?
"Fools rush in where Angels fear to tread".
Get paid in advance and prepare to get flamed. Not me brother. Best of luck in your endeavor.
. Actually they are not ALL split.......Mine was actually very structurally intact when I got the car in 82..The issues all involved the finish...Tons of hand sanding with progressively finer grades of paper,Something like 20 coats of birch wood Casey Tru oil go stock finish applied with my fingers ,rubbed with oooo steel wool and tack ragged between coats,a little touch up on some scratches on the spokes with the steel wool and Voila it looks like new...If it's afinish issue with no wood damage it's not that difficult...It is however very time consuming as the oil must dry completely between coats...Think it took me 4 or 5 days...Good Luck!! Trent
Quote from: 557 on February 10, 2018, 11:36:28 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on February 09, 2018, 01:10:18 PM
Anyone who wants to restore these things, if that is possible, is just opening themselves up to criticism.
They are all spit somewhere, you can't fill that, they used a gloss varnish which is very difficult to get, ridiculously difficult to reapply without getting some kind of dust specs, fish eyes in it and the owner expects to get back a new wheel.
By comparison, people are criticizing the finish on the new reproduction wheels as not authentic?
"Fools rush in where Angels fear to tread".
Get paid in advance and prepare to get flamed. Not me brother. Best of luck in your endeavor.
. Actually they are not ALL split.......Mine was actually very structurally intact when I got the car in 82..The issues all involved the finish...Tons of hand sanding with progressively finer grades of paper,Something like 20 coats of birch wood Casey Tru oil go stock finish applied with my fingers ,rubbed with oooo steel wool and tack ragged between coats,a little touch up on some scratches on the spokes with the steel wool and Voila it looks like new...If it's afinish issue with no wood damage it's not that difficult...It is however very time consuming as the oil must dry completely between coats...Think it took me 4 or 5 days...Good Luck!! Trent
Doing your own is the solution. 4 or 5 days is about $1,400-$1,500 in labor. You get paid for that.
Then listen to why you won't get paid because it isn't exactly like new. That's all I'm saying.
From what I have seen, about 90% of them have some kind of spiting at some level.
1242 has a medium to dark tone
^^^^^Beautiful.
Me likes medium to dark tones! ;) Question is who is recommended for such activities..... = Fair price,quality finished product, and lots of happy customers! Hopefully such a place exists.
Quote from: 67350#1242 on February 10, 2018, 07:23:53 PM
1242 has a medium to dark tone
. Is the horn button silver colored or is it just the photo?
Horn is gold - lighting/exposure make it look lighter.
Quote from: 67350#1242 on February 11, 2018, 09:10:39 AM
Horn is gold - lighting/exposure make it look lighter.
Did you restore it yourself? If so, can you share your recipe? 😎
I restored the wheel myself back around 1990. The wheel wasn't in too bad of shape but varnish was wearing through and kind of dull, grimy looking with a small crack along the grain on the right side. Spokes and hub had several fine scratches in the brushed stainless. Horn button likewise with fine scratches in the plastic. As I recall, the wheel had the same general color as seen - not real blonde or real dark to begin with.
I think most anyone with patience and hand skills should be able to refinish a wheel that is basically sound to begin with without getting into too much trouble or ruining it.
Basic steps would be stripping, repairing any cracks, light sanding, staining if desired, then applying the finish coat.
As I recall I didn't use any chemical stripper - just fine sandpaper to strip the topcoat. (I may have rubbed lightly with laquer thinner).
I used regular wood glue injected into the crack and drew it closed with several wire ties - allowed to dry then sanded smooth. For bigger cracks that can't be pulled together I would suggest a stainable wood filler in a darker shade so as to blend with the grain. If you have separation or cracks in the seam that runs around the backside a matching dark stained wood filler could be used here also. I didn't have that problem.
Once I got down to the raw wood I wiped on a coat of Minwax wood stain, let it sit a little while then wiped it off. At this point you can tell pretty much how it will end up looking. If not dark enough you can repeat the stain. Don't let it dry on the surface just want to penetrate the pores in the grain. You may want to practice on some scrap wood with different colored stains to get the tone you want. I think I used a walnut tint that was pretty dark. Once dry I may have gone over it again with very fine paper to further highlight the lighter areas. A little back and forth until you're happy with the look.
I just used a spray on clear gloss polyurethane for a topcoat with 400 wet/dry sanding between coats. 2-3 coats, let dry then color sand and polish out any dust, etc.
I understand that a varnish will impart more of a honey tone to the wood and you may want to use this instead if the look isn't rich enough. Mine looked good enough with the poly. Coat over the black spoke tips as well.
After 25+ years the wheel still looks great!
Kurt.
Kurt, thank you for taking the time to share that! 🍻
Here are 2 pics of my steering wheel post restoration.
Side note: it's amazing how much lighting can affect color perception of the wood.
Looks really nice Ruben.
Thanks for a very easy to follow explanation of things. I will try these steps myself, seems I cant get into much trouble with them and if not satisfied with my wood restoration skills I might look for some help. A genuine thank you from someone that has done it to someone that needs it done... Two thumbs up!!! ;)
QuoteThanks for a very easy to follow explanation of things. I will try these steps myself, seems I cant get into much trouble with them and if not satisfied with my wood restoration skills I might look for some help. A genuine thank you from someone that has done it to someone that needs it done... Two thumbs up!!! ;)
Very happy to share - and if you need any tips regarding spokes or horn button refreshing would be glad to help. :)
Kurt.
This is the steering wheel in my car #1317 located in Sweden. I have owned her for over 40 years now.
Steering wheel has never been removed.
Texas Swede
Quote from: texas swede on February 12, 2018, 09:29:12 AM
This is the steering wheel in my car #1317 located in Sweden. I have owned her for over 40 years now.
Steering wheel has never been removed.
Texas Swede
Nice shot!
It looks like the passenger's side dash emblem is non-embossed - is that correct?
Very cool!
Quote from: Shelby_0022 on February 12, 2018, 11:07:29 AM
Quote from: texas swede on February 12, 2018, 09:29:12 AM
This is the steering wheel in my car #1317 located in Sweden. I have owned her for over 40 years now.
Steering wheel has never been removed.
Texas Swede
Nice shot!
It looks like the passenger's side dash emblem is non-embossed - is that correct?
Very cool!
I'm not sure how you are getting that detail from the low res of the photo.
Bob,
It had this emblem when I bought the car in Huntington Beach, CA on June 3, 1977 and it is still there.
It's a non embossed silver snake. Whenever I get down to it I may change it to a NOS which I have.
Texas Swede
Quote from: texas swede on February 12, 2018, 12:41:47 PM
Bob,
It had this emblem when I bought the car in Huntington Beach, CA on June 3, 1977 and it is still there.
It's a non embossed silver snake. Whenever I get down to it I may change it to a NOS which I have.
Texas Swede
Yes the non embossed is a earlier style .The silver is faded gold . Have had many that started out as gold and faded to silver. Probably from the sunny SOCAL beach area.
Quote from: Bob Gaines on February 12, 2018, 11:53:34 AM
Quote from: Shelby_0022 on February 12, 2018, 11:07:29 AM
Quote from: texas swede on February 12, 2018, 09:29:12 AM
This is the steering wheel in my car #1317 located in Sweden. I have owned her for over 40 years now.
Steering wheel has never been removed.
Texas Swede
Nice shot!
It looks like the passenger's side dash emblem is non-embossed - is that correct?
Very cool!
I'm not sure how you are getting that detail from the low res of the photo.
...my eyes are that good...I kid. ;D
I am getting ready to restore my wheels as well. Its in good shape for its obvious age, but it appears that a PO liked to drive wearing a ring or two..... the back side and top are a little raw with use.
Any recommendations regarding on the removal of the varnish that has yellowed on the black rubber, I assume its hard rubber, between the spokes and the wood rim ?
Also.... anyone used steel wool, or bronze wool to clean up the spoke ?
Any and all assistance is always appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Bob
Quote from: oldcanuck on April 20, 2020, 09:44:11 AM
I am getting ready to restore my wheels as well. Its in good shape for its obvious age, but it appears that a PO liked to drive wearing a ring or two..... the back side and top are a little raw with use.
Any recommendations regarding on the removal of the varnish that has yellowed on the black rubber, I assume its hard rubber, between the spokes and the wood rim ?
Also.... anyone used steel wool, or bronze wool to clean up the spoke ?
Any and all assistance is always appreciated.
Thanks in advance,
Bob
Not rubber, it's a epoxy like compound that was used as a filler and to bond the wood to the steel ring inside and that the spokes are welded too.
Yes, sanding with the materials, or others, are typical.
Thanks JD.....
If I am hearing everyone correctly.... no chemical strippers ?
correct, I would not use chemical.
also, some have posted detailed refinishing techniques on this forum, and used oils (gun stock) as a final not clear.
Nice thing about gunstock oil is the finish doesn't deteriorate with touch,it is designed for that .Tedious process though as you have to lay down a whole lot of coats letting dry and scuffing with fine steel wool between coats.Takes forever,but worth it.
The wood does take on the amber hue because of the spar varnish that was used, which has no UV inhibitors. The wheels are lighter than many. I have refinished a couple over the years. They strip easily with Easy Off oven cleaner in the yellow can. A couple of them were highly impregnated with grease which made them appear much darker. I have repaired the epoxy that tends to winds up showing some level of separation on the backside as well.
There is a steel wire ring that is welded to the spokes. The wood was steam-formed over.
What is the safe way to remove the old varnish on the black epoxy filler at the junction of the spokes and the wheel ?
Thank You,
BG
I have 3 wheels, two original and one restored after the previous owner just put tons of milky finish on it, and did not test its sturdiness. (see 1st 2 pics and the last one), I gave it to Jeff where he asked me how I wanted it finished, I chose no stain with semi gloss finish, it came out beautiful. Most important was it is now a solid wheel, (I wonder how many "refinished" wheels are so weak that it might break and wind up in your hands ar 65mph?
Go ahead, give you wheel a good yank, I mean a good yank.....I dare you! It might surprise you how hard you yank on your wheel while spirited driving.
I am also amazed of the saying, you get what you pay for, that is so true! Doing it yourself is a great way to do it the way you want, and be ready for critics to kick in! I don't give a rats behind what anyone thinks what my wheels looks like, the bottom line is, you put your paws on it and drive it, if that puts a smile on your face, then congratulate yourself for a great job, and or be happy that the money to fix/refinish is was well spent in your eyes. Some who look for a bargain refinish job are usually the same ones selling a lug nut for 50.00. Just sayin'.
Pics of the broken one, an over the counter, (original wheel) and my repaired/refinished wheel....I will post a picture of the third wheel later.
Your wheel is fine. Slightly less orange than mine post restoration. The resin that is commonly showing cracks on the back simply holds the wood to the steel ring that is welded to the spokes. I have worked with three now. Not one had weak welds. Jeff Stephens quote to just refinish the wood wheel was about 1,000.00.
That may make sense if you were replacing the wood. I elected to do my own and another two over-the -counter wheels. They came out beautiful.
As I mentioned, the Easy Off Oven Clean works great for breaking down the varnish. It's a trick I learned from an old-timer gunsmith.
I've done many Garand, Carbine and M 14 stocks.
Rotated from above...
Quote from: JD on April 30, 2020, 10:48:08 PM
Rotated from above...
JD: Are you the official site picture rotator? I know you've done it for me a couple times too. Thanks.
Quote from: The Going Thing on April 30, 2020, 11:16:52 PM
Quote from: JD on April 30, 2020, 10:48:08 PM
Rotated from above...
JD: Are you the official site picture rotator? I know you've done it for me a couple times too. Thanks.
Lol yea what i found lately is to take the pic with the phone /camera held sideways & it seems to work everytime
Beautiful wheels btw
I never realized that these wheels are that fragile.
I learned about the oven cleaner from a carpenter. He'd use it to clean the wood resin that would stick to the circular saw blades.
It's a little expensive to use it that way now, but it definitely removes the stuff.
the only thing is that it leaves a residue in wood. Metal objects you can power wash clean but wood is a different story.
Quote from: The Going Thing on April 30, 2020, 11:16:52 PM
Quote from: JD on April 30, 2020, 10:48:08 PM
Rotated from above...
JD: Are you the official site picture rotator? I know you've done it for me a couple times too. Thanks.
Yeah, it happens a lot, I cannot seem to rotate them myself, I am using an Apple MacAir and my iPhone.
I've done at least 30 stocks with it and three steering wheels. It rinses with water. Let it dry, sand it smooth.