I'm freshening up the engine bay of my '67 GT500, haven't done one in a few years and wondering what folks are using to duplicate the semi flat black in the engine bay these days?
Thanks, Jeff
Do you want something durable, or just factory looks? Are you planning on shooting it with a gun, or bomb can?
-Keith
Quote from: 1967 eight barrel on March 24, 2019, 10:58:27 PM
Do you want something durable, or just factory looks? Are you planning on shooting it with a gun, or bomb can?
-Keith
Keith, I'd like to use something durable and don't have any problem using a paint gun.
I will get the numbers I used. It was a basecoat with vintage clear. I will post pictures of the engine compartment after I shot it for you. I am in NY until Wednesay. I only have my company laptop with me here. You control the sheen of the clear with how much hardner is used with the vintage clear. It's a great durable product. I even used it with the interior trim panels.
-Keith
Also going to depend on what is legal to purchase and apply. If your having it painted by someone else or in someones shop they can get particular when fines are and other nasty things can get involved.
Just a concern for some of us.
Used Hot Rod Black a couple of cars ago. A little soft, like the look and easy to touch up if you have a little bumper or accident. Even used SEMS Trim Black to touch up
Others will surely have their own favorite brand for their own reasons
I bought some of this stuff. I like it so much I've been using it on just about everything.
It dries hard like a powder coat does and looks like powder coat.
The only thing on my 68 that technically isn't right for is my firewall which is a gloss coat. That never looked right but that's the way I got it.
The satin to me looks just about right on things like export brace, shock towers, etc.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Satin-Black-Hot-Rod-Quart-2K-Urethane-Single-Stage-Car-Motorcycle-Auto-Paint-Kit/292422914039?var=591287972206&hash=item4415c38ff7:m:mQjaJn84d0mF7ZnYEUP-ByQ
If you can get it, I think it is called DP90, epoxy primer, thats all you need to get the correct look. It will hold up well. Rock hard finish!
On gloss level...
Should the engine bay paint be closer to the flat end of the satin/gloss scale and the other add ons like radiator, export brace, shock tower caps and brake booster all stick out as having a little higher gloss?
Or should any of those match the engine bay gloss?
Now your getting into person taste and judging, I personally like "egg shell" look with a smooth finish. some like using flatener, lots of work getting it right. I have heard of using the DP90 (black epoxy) with clear that is already flat when it drys. May or may not be good? My boss was done with dp90 and the deck lid was done with "hot rod black" Which is hard to find now.
There was an article in Mustang and Fords by Bob Perkins. This is the paint he said was correct.
Understand that DP90 like the other paints in that group is not designed for UV exposure if you want to figure that into your decision making process when choosing a paint for this process
Quote from: T-Bone68 on March 25, 2019, 09:28:36 AM
On gloss level...
Should the engine bay paint be closer to the flat end of the satin/gloss scale and the other add on's like radiator, export brace, shock tower caps and brake booster all stick out as having a little higher gloss?
Or should any of those match the engine bay gloss?
Originally there would have been a variety of blacks and amount of gloss or flat tones of semi-gloss since the parts were all painted in different plants and by different suppliers on different days, different paints and weather. One in that group might match the engine compartment on any particular day
Quote from: T-Bone68 on March 25, 2019, 09:28:36 AM
On gloss level...
Should the engine bay paint be closer to the flat end of the satin/gloss scale and the other add ons like radiator, export brace, shock tower caps and brake booster all stick out as having a little higher gloss?
Or should any of those match the engine bay gloss?
There was a range on gloss for all of the items mentioned so you have a certain amount of latitude before you get into the extremes one way or the other. The one thing that you can count on is that the odds of everything being the same gloss level were pretty remote. In general it sounds like you have things understood.
Thanks for all the comments, that was kind of what I was thinking too in that there wasn't one paint that was 100% correct but more of a general range of gloss that would have been on them and the sheen can vary to some degree. I will check availability of some of these suggestions and go from there.
SEM Trim Black has a nice finish too.
I have applied DP90 on my boss cars in the past. Looks great for awhile but fades after a few years. Its not meant as a top coat. My last engine bay spray i used basecoat black with hot rod clear. Nice eggshell finish and being catalysed means it is more resistant to coolant, fuel and brake fluid..easy to touch up. My export brace is satin powder coat.
(Yea, yea. I know there is a ton of stuff not right under that hood. I do drive and enjoy 3119. The people get a kick out of it. We have fun!)
^^^^looks fantastic!
Excellent !!... 8)
Thank you! I was not sure how the hot rod clear would work. I like it better than anything else i worked with.
Getting ready to paint some items that I'd like to have finished in a 2K product for durability.
I like SEM Trim Black in both the spray can (excellent nozzle and sprays better than most paint cans) and in quart can for use with an HVLP. Nice color but not uber durable.
I also like DP90 as it is quite durable, but as Jeff says, is not UV stable.
A call to SEM tech support has them saying that their 'Hot Rod Black Clear' (matte) will successfully go over their Trim Black or DP90(LF). The clear should be shot within the DP's re-coat window or scuffed if not.
Sounds like an interesting thing to try as I have some things in Trim Black that I think might be better served in something more durable.
Trim black is a thin paint and not particularly durable by any standard. The finish is nice. However, what I learned is that something with more gloss is much easier to keep looking nice because the dirt doesn't stick as easily and it can be dusted/wiped off with little effort. The trim black also peels over time.
-Keith
That's incorrect in all the right ways! ;)
I realize I am entering my "vote" on this topic,as I have before,but the one I use is bought from local John Deere dealer. Available in rattle can and pints,etc. It depends on your choice of "correctness" between gloss choices,but I use medium gloss... and believe the QUALITY of the paint is excellent. From high gloss to blitz black and a few between, I Have used on motorcycle restos to a few Shelby/Mustang/Ford type restorations. Best "crinkle" in a can is Harley Davidson. Do not buy any from Chinese stores..i.e. Dollar General,Family Dollar,etc.
I would personally never use spray can products on something like an engine compartment. It just doesn't have the durability. You can run a single or dual stage catalyzed product. You just have to be careful with your choices, Many don't hold up to heat or chemicals well. A big block car is ALWAYS hot under the hood and the paint, especially on the shock towers, is susceptible to blistering and discoloration. Spraying over rattle can paint also is asking for issues.
-Keith
This is the black two stage I used. It wipes off easily is is quite durable. -Keith
Here is another angle.
I used Matt Black years ago and still looks good.
It calls for 70% gloss specifically. However, as I stated it's almost impossible to keep clean.
I found the engine compartment picture less the engine.
I think we discussed it pretty good here in this thread, maybe sometimes the search will help
http://www.saacforum.com/index.php?topic=3755.msg32657#msg32657
Most of us aren't using what was suggested in that feed. I don't care what Ford uses. I wanted what looked like Ford uses with a much more durable finish. That is a base coat-clear coat system.