None of the paint shops here will mix this for me. Are there anyone of the parts vendors offering this is quart cans? I haven't found any yet. I've tried the rattle cans and it is inconsistent and really a waist of time.
Is "here" California? If so maybe Jeff Speegle has a suggestion?
No. The Big Apple.
The consensus "seems" to be that no one wants to mix laquer and that for one quart, it's a BFD. I don't know the specific issues the suppliers here have but this is like attempting to have an intelligent discussion with a door knob? The paint fumes have eroded what little grey matter they ever had, which in my observation, ain't much to begin with?
https://www.automotivetouchup.com/index.htm
If this is the same color as 67 charcoal metallic then ask if they mix Deltron 2000 DBI interior.
I have a pint bought late last year which when mixed 1:1 with DT yields half a quart.
It sprays well and has the right sheen when sprayed over a compatible black primer.
A little goes a really long way.
PPG brand code is 32586 and it's called Charcoal Black Poly.
Same color. The metallic in it is subtle. I can't get any metallic out of the rattle cans and the gloss is wrong from them.
When applied correctly, this stuff looks like it is sun faded black and it is almost flat black.
The suppliers here are for high volume shops. 1968 is probably the last time anyone used lacquer?
Get the correct paint in a rattle can, perfect match, my last batch, from West Coast Classic Cougar
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 13, 2019, 09:40:34 PM
Same color. The metallic in it is subtle. I can't get any metallic out of the rattle cans and the gloss is wrong from them.
When applied correctly, this stuff looks like it is sun faded black and it is almost flat black.
The suppliers here are for high volume shops. 1968 is probably the last time anyone used lacquer?
I got mine from a high volume shop. Wesco. Great people. Very knowledgeable.
Don't understand why you'd want to use lacquer.
Here it's applied very dry in order to replicate the finish found on unrestored cars:
(http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16775.0;attach=50118;image)
Here is one of Jeff's picture from an unrestored Shelby:
http://www.concoursmustang.com/forum/gallery/5/6-170416225514-5526547.jpeg
[Because I didn't ask permission to copy or direct link the image I give you the link to the image at the consoursmustang.com website.]
Different gun settings allow a better finish on dashes.
I'm not thrilled by lacquer. Just going by what was previously recommended. I'd go with whatever is more durable and looks correct. I don't want to have to redo it again...ever.
What's in the spray cans? That is unclear to me?
if you are using a rattle can from a reputable company, SHAKE SHAKE SHAKE for at least 5 minutes. the metallic sinks to the bottom af the can. make sure the paint is warm. dust it on, to heavy and you bury the metallic. no wet coats. phred
Quote from: Bossbill on April 13, 2019, 06:01:03 PM
If this is the same color as 67 charcoal metallic then ask if they mix Deltron 2000 DBI interior.
I have a pint bought late last year which when mixed 1:1 with DT yields half a quart.
It sprays well and has the right sheen when sprayed over a compatible black primer.
A little goes a really long way.
PPG brand code is 32586 and it's called Charcoal Black Poly.
+1
The paint you guys are recommending is a 1K system and not a 2k? It's single stage?
Doug,
Let me know if you can't get the paint you need mixed locally. I have chased paint here that some states have banned and shipped. I'd be glad to assist if needed.
-Keith
I found a guy. The issue is the product description is showing as 69 Cougar charcoal.
Now I think it's 1k, single stage, meaning just shoot it with no hardener, no clear coat, but they don't know. "Read the instructions".
Now apparently "poly" means it has metallic in it, and the flatness is built into the formula.
The color chip looks grey. My two cars, the 68 and 67 both look different. The 67 is flatter. The 68 looks blacker.
Apparently you affect the results of that by spraying it lighter and drier.
I have a friend who is following the entire scenario ask, "do you drink?" I said no. He said, "you should". :o
I got tired of shooting at stationary targets. 99 out of 100 was a bad day. I need moving targets. "How can you shoot women and children? Easy...you don't lead them as much." Yikes.
At $165 a quart, if it's wrong, maybe it'll mix with Scotch? Oh I forgot. I don't drink.
Thanks for the offer. I'm cool. I've got it under control...I think? 8)
FWIW the stuff I used (image posted above in Reply #8) was single-stage and we had to add flattener to it for the "correct" sheen.
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 27, 2019, 03:14:39 PM
I found a guy. The issue is the product description is showing as 69 Cougar charcoal.
Now I think it's 1k, single stage, meaning just shoot it with no hardener, no clear coat, but they don't know. "Read the instructions".
Now apparently "poly" means it has metallic in it, and the flatness is built into the formula.
The color chip looks grey. My two cars, the 68 and 67 both look different. The 67 is flatter. The 68 looks blacker.
Apparently you affect the results of that by spraying it lighter and drier.
I have a friend who is following the entire scenario ask, "do you drink?" I said no. He said, "you should". :o
I got tired of shooting at stationary targets. 99 out of 100 was a bad day. I need moving targets. "How can you shoot women and children? Easy...you don't lead them as much." Yikes.
At $165 a quart, if it's wrong, maybe it'll mix with Scotch? Oh I forgot. I don't drink.
Thanks for the offer. I'm cool. I've got it under control...I think? 8)
The colors are meant to be all the same 67-70 whether Cougar or Mustang. With two different year cars or even two different plants in the same year the issue maybe variations in batches of the same color paint between the two examples.
Quote from: JD on April 27, 2019, 04:14:34 PM
FWIW the stuff I used (image posted above in Reply #8) was single-stage and we had to add flattener to it for the "correct" sheen.
Did you have to do that by eye, on the spot or is it possible to add that to the formula before hand? My 67 is flatter then the 68.
I remember you, someone, talking about that and referring to flattening it in percentages? Like you felt it needed to be flattened 20% additionally.
I would say that the picture that Jeff posted of the back of the the trap door is about the flatness that my 67's dash is but others talked about shooting it "drier".
Drier is going to effect the texture and make it coarser to the touch won't it?
Quote from: Bob Gaines on April 27, 2019, 04:24:11 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 27, 2019, 03:14:39 PM
I found a guy. The issue is the product description is showing as 69 Cougar charcoal.
Now I think it's 1k, single stage, meaning just shoot it with no hardener, no clear coat, but they don't know. "Read the instructions".
Now apparently "poly" means it has metallic in it, and the flatness is built into the formula.
The color chip looks grey. My two cars, the 68 and 67 both look different. The 67 is flatter. The 68 looks blacker.
Apparently you affect the results of that by spraying it lighter and drier.
I have a friend who is following the entire scenario ask, "do you drink?" I said no. He said, "you should". :o
I got tired of shooting at stationary targets. 99 out of 100 was a bad day. I need moving targets. "How can you shoot women and children? Easy...you don't lead them as much." Yikes.
At $165 a quart, if it's wrong, maybe it'll mix with Scotch? Oh I forgot. I don't drink.
Thanks for the offer. I'm cool. I've got it under control...I think? 8)
The colors are meant to be all the same 67-70 whether Cougar or Mustang. With two different year cars or even two different plants in the same year the issue maybe variations in batches of the same color paint between the two examples.
So Cougar IS the same as the Mustang? Fine by me. I just was looking for verification of that. Thanks for that.
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 27, 2019, 04:35:32 PM
I would say that the picture that Jeff posted of the back of the the trap door is about the flatness that my 67's dash is but others talked about shooting it "drier".
Drier is going to effect the texture and make it coarser to the touch won't it?
Like many things there are multiple paths to the same end. I've found when I lay on too heavy of a final coat it will fill in texture and result in a glossier finish. Not looking to add texture from the paint coat just eliminate the possibility of producing a non-factory like final look
I'm not adverse to having more flat agent mixed in initially but I need a number on that.
I'd rather have the paint do the work rather then have to be a magician and pull a rabbit out of my hat.
Nobody has mentioned this but over the years restoring 69s and using the charcoal black I found out early on that with rattle cans it was impossible for me to spray large areas like trap doors or rear side panels with a consistent look. So for a long time I would "gun spray" all my part hanging and could control the finish much better. Gary
Quote from: shelbymann1970 on April 28, 2019, 09:27:43 AM
Nobody has mentioned this but over the years restoring 69s and using the charcoal black I found out early on that with rattle cans it was impossible for me to spray large areas like trap doors or rear side panels with a consistent look. So for a long time I would "gun spray" all my part hanging and could control the finish much better. Gary
You can't do detailed work or control the metallic content with a spray can. The metallic all seems to settle to the bottom of the can and solidifies.
Even with a spray gun, you need to go back to the old method of putting marbles in the cup to help keep the metallic in suspension while shaking the spray gun constantly.
The big panels you are just going to get runs in using spray cans.
The question to me is why none of the "vendors" keep any of this paint in cans.
I had a hell of a time with the 5766 for my Shelby. Most of the bases have all changed because of the never ending BS from the EPA. So color formulas aren't even able to be made in new mediums.
I went two stage with the interior. I got the white, but it was only available in the two stage. I sprayed it and used a product called Vintage Clear. The finalized finish is controlled by the amount of hardner added to the clear. You can go from semi-gloss to flat. Because of the call out for different colors it worked very well and is much more durable than spray-can finishes and single stage paints.
-Keith
Your challenges in this area demonstrate why the the two stage painting systems are allowed in concours shows. With access limited to various paints, you would potentially be excluding many participants.
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 27, 2019, 07:56:03 PM
I'm not adverse to having more flat agent mixed in initially but I need a number on that.
I'd rather have the paint do the work rather then have to be a magician and pull a rabbit out of my hat.
we used a light coat of flat black primer as a base under the final, and seem to remember adding 30 percent-ish of flattener as what we got was provided as gloss. Two coats of final as it did not cover well enough wit just one coat.
Hope that helps
Quote from: Coralsnake on April 28, 2019, 11:03:23 AM
Your challenges in this area demonstrate why the the two stage painting systems are allowed in concours shows. With access limited to various paints, you would potentially be excluding many participants.
So far, you can get any paint that you want on the Internet. Unavailability of the Ditzler interior here is just that no one wants to carry it and for a quart, no one is interested in getting it.
There are lots of unregulated states that sell all the bad stuff. No one checks what anyone is spraying here. Even if they did, how would you know what is in the paint gun?
Not using Acrylic Enamel is more of a professional preferance. I did a car in Deltron, one step. That's the bad stuff that produces potasium cyanide while curing.
The stuff runs all over, is impossible to sand down and polish out. It's intended to just shoot and go.
The reason I did it initially was because it was the "toughest finish" you can put on the car. As it turns out, that's BS. It chips easily all over the place. The killer is it's an SOB to strip it down again.
Original finishes are available. They are easier to find then original production line parts date coced correctly.
The ruling of any paint finishes allowed is just a political one yielding to strong lobbyists. Plain and simple. So be it. As long as there is a standardized rule book for the competition. That's all it is though. Just a competition. It is not a representation of how the car came off the assembly line. The car is merely a caricature of that.
As far as finding the paint though, didn't someone say that part of the fun is in the hunt? It certainly is educational and of high value just for that alone. No complaints on my part and thanks to everyone who helped and continues to help.
Quote from: JD on April 28, 2019, 11:40:14 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 27, 2019, 07:56:03 PM
I'm not adverse to having more flat agent mixed in initially but I need a number on that.
I'd rather have the paint do the work rather then have to be a magician and pull a rabbit out of my hat.
we used a light coat of flat black primer as a base under the final, and seem to remember adding 30 percent-ish of flattener as what we got was provided as gloss. Two coats of final as it did not cover well enough wit just one coat.
Hope that helps
JD. You are saying that the "original formula" that you used was gloss? I thought that it had flattening agent already mixed in as part of the formula?
This is why I don't trust the shop mixing for me. I have experience from that from 35 years ago. Those guys screw up all of the time and you can't tell until you spray and find the color is wrong, then have to go all through the process and do it again.
"Factory" mixed is the best results by far.
I guess I have been lucky as I never have had a problem spraying the paint. I have done many. Runs could be a problem with rattle cans but the problem I have had is as you spray out it dries too fast giving you that mismatched dry over spray. I also use a touch up gun to spray as it holds what I need. Yes I have used marbles before but not on my 68 Shelby and it came out great and I am pretty anal on it being done right. I actually rattle canned my engine bay on my 68 and it came out awesome. I had to re-do it thanks to over spray by my painter doing the body so chose the less invasive way. When I sold the car 5 years later the bay looked as good as the day I did it.
(https://beta-static.photobucket.com/images/w61/shelbymann/68%20shelby/P1010194.jpg) (https://beta.photobucket.com/u/shelbymann/p/86fc0aca-f0c5-4013-840a-966035740b2d)
Nice job. Looks nice.
In addition to what I've said, I've experienced variation in paint types in spray cans. Rattle cans tending not to be the original industrial paint type applied. More of an unknown type of a "Krylon" made so "Johnny Bench" can spray it without runs in 30 seconds.
The 67-8-9 Mustang/Cougar interior "Charcoal" paint is more then just a little different and although the learning curve isn't a particularly high one, it is a little steep. Unless you have done one before and experienced some of the pitfalls, you need to learn it yourself UNLESS you can pick the brains of others willing to share like you can here.
Sharing experiences here only helps. Everyone seems to have had a little different route to get the right results. I never thought of using a flat base coat first. That's not what I'm seeing on my original panels but is a professional shortcut to better results.
Thanks to those who have pointed that out. For sure that comes from a school of hard knocks. ;)
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 28, 2019, 11:53:46 AM
JD. You are saying that the "original formula" that you used was gloss? I thought that it had flattening agent already mixed in as part of the formula?
This is why I don't trust the shop mixing for me. I have experience from that from 35 years ago. Those guys screw up all of the time and you can't tell until you spray and find the color is wrong, then have to go all through the process and do it again.
"Factory" mixed is the best results by far.
Yes, this was in 2006 and gloss is how the paint we got was supplied. Four of us needed this paint and were having some trouble getting it. One guy found it and was able to get a gallon and had it divided into quarts that's why my name is on the quart can in the photo. We found out how "thin" it was when spraying the first car and stopped to lay-down a dark base to get the coverage. Mine was the second car painted. One quart JUST did one car.
Quote from: JD on April 29, 2019, 08:13:40 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 28, 2019, 11:53:46 AM
JD. You are saying that the "original formula" that you used was gloss? I thought that it had flattening agent already mixed in as part of the formula?
This is why I don't trust the shop mixing for me. I have experience from that from 35 years ago. Those guys screw up all of the time and you can't tell until you spray and find the color is wrong, then have to go all through the process and do it again.
"Factory" mixed is the best results by far.
Yes, this was in 2006 and gloss is how the paint we got was supplied. Four of us needed this paint and were having some trouble getting it. One guy found it and was able to get a gallon and had it divided into quarts that's why my name is on the quart can in the photo. We found out how "thin" it was when spraying the first car and stopped to lay-down a dark base to get the coverage. Mine was the second car painted. One quart JUST did one car.
Let Me explain. The paint formula does indeed have a flattening agent in the mix but I ( We, JD and others ) were not happy with the gloss level on previous mix's of this product so this last batch we had the flatting agent left out so even though it was a gallon mix formula we got slightly less than a gallon of color. I then add flattening agent as needed to acquire the desired gloss level that matched the factory applied paint. As noted I applied a base of a black/dark grey primer as this paint was so translucent that had I not done this it would have required probably 2 quarts to get the proper color.
Rodney
Quote from: KR500 on April 29, 2019, 09:07:03 AM
Quote from: JD on April 29, 2019, 08:13:40 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 28, 2019, 11:53:46 AM
JD. You are saying that the "original formula" that you used was gloss? I thought that it had flattening agent already mixed in as part of the formula?
This is why I don't trust the shop mixing for me. I have experience from that from 35 years ago. Those guys screw up all of the time and you can't tell until you spray and find the color is wrong, then have to go all through the process and do it again.
"Factory" mixed is the best results by far.
Yes, this was in 2006 and gloss is how the paint we got was supplied. Four of us needed this paint and were having some trouble getting it. One guy found it and was able to get a gallon and had it divided into quarts that's why my name is on the quart can in the photo. We found out how "thin" it was when spraying the first car and stopped to lay-down a dark base to get the coverage. Mine was the second car painted. One quart JUST did one car.
Let Me explain. The paint formula does indeed have a flattening agent in the mix but I ( We, JD and others ) were not happy with the gloss level on previous mix's of this product so this last batch we had the flatting agent left out so even though it was a gallon mix formula we got slightly less than a gallon of color. I then add flattening agent as needed to acquire the desired gloss level that matched the factory applied paint. As noted I applied a base of a black/dark grey primer as this paint was so translucent that had I not done this it would have required probably 2 quarts to get the proper color.
Rodney
Oye vey! My friend is right. I should start to drink. At least then I'd have an excuse to have an ulcer?
It would appear that the factory didn't even use a base coat or a primer.
So the answer is, the four of you thought it should finish as virtually flat?
As I said, my '67 is very flat "on the dash" (which is what I'm using as the basis) and the '68 is sort of an egg shell.
Both steering columns appear original and both finishes are similar but to me look like they had an activator in them because they are hard. Neither have any orange peel in them and both if you hold them to the light see the very fine metallic content in them. Metallic fairy dust is what it looks like. :o
The fiberglass panels in the back are a different story.
I think I'll try Tequila shooters? The paint will still suck but I won't care. ::)
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 29, 2019, 10:04:18 AM
Oye vey! My friend is right. I should start to drink. At least then I'd have an excuse to have an ulcer?
It would appear that the factory didn't even use a base coat or a primer.
So the answer is, the four of you thought it should finish as virtually flat?
As I said, my '67 is very flat "on the dash" (which is what I'm using as the basis) and the '68 is sort of an egg shell.
Both steering columns appear original and both finishes are similar but to me look like they had an activator in them because they are hard. Neither have any orange peel in them and both if you hold them to the light see the very fine metallic content in them. Metallic fairy dust is what it looks like. :o
The fiberglass panels in the back are a different story.
I think I'll try Tequila shooters? The paint will still suck but I won't care. ::)
NO, not right - not virtually flat. 30 percent flattener to gloss is not virtually flat. The only thing flat was the dark base primer.
Quote from: Coralsnake on April 28, 2019, 11:03:23 AM
Your challenges in this area demonstrate why the the two stage painting systems are allowed in concours shows. With access limited to various paints, you would potentially be excluding many participants.
+1
Have to look at the big picture.
Chris
Quote from: JD on April 29, 2019, 10:41:23 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 29, 2019, 10:04:18 AM
Oye vey! My friend is right. I should start to drink. At least then I'd have an excuse to have an ulcer?
It would appear that the factory didn't even use a base coat or a primer.
So the answer is, the four of you thought it should finish as virtually flat?
As I said, my '67 is very flat "on the dash" (which is what I'm using as the basis) and the '68 is sort of an egg shell.
Both steering columns appear original and both finishes are similar but to me look like they had an activator in them because they are hard. Neither have any orange peel in them and both if you hold them to the light see the very fine metallic content in them. Metallic fairy dust is what it looks like. :o
The fiberglass panels in the back are a different story.
I think I'll try Tequila shooters? The paint will still suck but I won't care. ::)
NO, not right - not virtually flat. 30 percent flattener to gloss is not virtually flat. The only thing flat was the dark base primer.
I need to make a decision on this. I don't have the capability of adding flattening agent as needed. Either I order stock mix or request stock plus 30% additional flattening agent added.
Maybe I can order this like I order a Chef's salad with the dressing on the side? :o
I need to buy a vowel, I mean ask a second opinion.
Mr. Gaines. Would you care to venture an opinion on this?
I have been following this thread and I just noticed a couple of days ago that the panel around the SYNC display screen on my wife's 2016 Lincoln MKX is a charcoal metallic paint. The finish is pretty flat and the sun shining in the window made the metallic really stand out and is why I noticed it. I don't have a part handy to compare but it might be pretty easy to get paint based on this and do a comparison or maybe compare an original part. Just a thought. :)
TOB
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 29, 2019, 11:03:36 AM
Quote from: JD on April 29, 2019, 10:41:23 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 29, 2019, 10:04:18 AM
Oye vey! My friend is right. I should start to drink. At least then I'd have an excuse to have an ulcer?
It would appear that the factory didn't even use a base coat or a primer.
So the answer is, the four of you thought it should finish as virtually flat?
As I said, my '67 is very flat "on the dash" (which is what I'm using as the basis) and the '68 is sort of an egg shell.
Both steering columns appear original and both finishes are similar but to me look like they had an activator in them because they are hard. Neither have any orange peel in them and both if you hold them to the light see the very fine metallic content in them. Metallic fairy dust is what it looks like. :o
The fiberglass panels in the back are a different story.
I think I'll try Tequila shooters? The paint will still suck but I won't care. ::)
NO, not right - not virtually flat. 30 percent flattener to gloss is not virtually flat. The only thing flat was the dark base primer.
I need to make a decision on this. I don't have the capability of adding flattening agent as needed. Either I order stock mix or request stock plus 30% additional flattening agent added.
Maybe I can order this like I order a Chef's salad with the dressing on the side? :o
I need to buy a vowel, I mean ask a second opinion.
Mr. Gaines. Would you care to venture an opinion on this?
Automotive paint is mixed by weight, so yes you can get the flattener on the side. Just have them put it in a separate can. Just make sure you have them include the mix formula so you know how much of the formula was flattener, ect. Formula will be x# of grams tint #xx and so on.
Quote from: KR500 on April 29, 2019, 01:09:31 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 29, 2019, 11:03:36 AM
Quote from: JD on April 29, 2019, 10:41:23 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 29, 2019, 10:04:18 AM
Oye vey! My friend is right. I should start to drink. At least then I'd have an excuse to have an ulcer?
It would appear that the factory didn't even use a base coat or a primer.
So the answer is, the four of you thought it should finish as virtually flat?
As I said, my '67 is very flat "on the dash" (which is what I'm using as the basis) and the '68 is sort of an egg shell.
Both steering columns appear original and both finishes are similar but to me look like they had an activator in them because they are hard. Neither have any orange peel in them and both if you hold them to the light see the very fine metallic content in them. Metallic fairy dust is what it looks like. :o
The fiberglass panels in the back are a different story.
I think I'll try Tequila shooters? The paint will still suck but I won't care. ::)
NO, not right - not virtually flat. 30 percent flattener to gloss is not virtually flat. The only thing flat was the dark base primer.
I need to make a decision on this. I don't have the capability of adding flattening agent as needed. Either I order stock mix or request stock plus 30% additional flattening agent added.
Maybe I can order this like I order a Chef's salad with the dressing on the side? :o
I need to buy a vowel, I mean ask a second opinion.
Mr. Gaines. Would you care to venture an opinion on this?
Automotive paint is mixed by weight, so yes you can get the flattener on the side. Just have them put it in a separate can. Just make sure you have them include the mix formula so you know how much of the formula was flattener, ect. Formula will be x# of grams tint #xx and so on.
That should be on the contents label?
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 29, 2019, 01:17:22 PM
Quote from: KR500 on April 29, 2019, 01:09:31 PM
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 29, 2019, 11:03:36 AM
Quote from: JD on April 29, 2019, 10:41:23 AM
Quote from: shelbydoug on April 29, 2019, 10:04:18 AM
Oye vey! My friend is right. I should start to drink. At least then I'd have an excuse to have an ulcer?
It would appear that the factory didn't even use a base coat or a primer.
So the answer is, the four of you thought it should finish as virtually flat?
As I said, my '67 is very flat "on the dash" (which is what I'm using as the basis) and the '68 is sort of an egg shell.
Both steering columns appear original and both finishes are similar but to me look like they had an activator in them because they are hard. Neither have any orange peel in them and both if you hold them to the light see the very fine metallic content in them. Metallic fairy dust is what it looks like. :o
The fiberglass panels in the back are a different story.
I think I'll try Tequila shooters? The paint will still suck but I won't care. ::)
NO, not right - not virtually flat. 30 percent flattener to gloss is not virtually flat. The only thing flat was the dark base primer.
I need to make a decision on this. I don't have the capability of adding flattening agent as needed. Either I order stock mix or request stock plus 30% additional flattening agent added.
Maybe I can order this like I order a Chef's salad with the dressing on the side? :o
I need to buy a vowel, I mean ask a second opinion.
Mr. Gaines. Would you care to venture an opinion on this?
Automotive paint is mixed by weight, so yes you can get the flattener on the side. Just have them put it in a separate can. Just make sure you have them include the mix formula so you know how much of the formula was flattener, ect. Formula will be x# of grams tint #xx and so on.
That should be on the contents label?
No the mix formula is not on the ( paint system can ) label. The paint can labels usually have the directions, warnings VOC content ect. If the paint is mixed at your local supplier the actual paint formula is usually printed out on an adhesive label and then stuck on either the inside or out side of the paint system appropriate label. If the paint is factory packaged there is no formula supplied.
Doug, I'm coming your way next week out of DFW. I can assist. I sent you a PM.
-Keith
pm answered